Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

edrach

Members
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by edrach

  1. Classic DOJ failure: Clunks, thunks, vibrates; sometimes so bad it feels like the entire transmission is about to fall out. But ONLY under positive throttle; as soon as you let off the gas all the symptoms go away.
  2. Way to go. I'm glad the head gaskets weren't murphed. The orange coolent is okay to use but I changed back to the green version just because of the cost difference and the orange was a bit finicky to use. Just one word of advice, if the owner's manual says to go more than 3000 miles between changes, don't. I tend to change my oil and filter every 2500 miles just for my own peace of mind.
  3. Jamie is a jewel to deal with. You can't find a better person.
  4. That looks like A&A Auto wreckers on Canyon Rd. I hope I didn't screw up the name. They're pretty good to deal with; a bit pricey but when they have what you're looking for, that's okay.
  5. Most likely those years of Subaru sedan, wagon and gen1 Brat.
  6. Give Jason in Parts a call at Mike Scarf Subaru in Auburn, WA. Toll free: 1-866-528-5282, he should be able to help you out. I always call direct since the website is a terror to try to navigate.
  7. So what was the final fix for this? Or is it still waiting?
  8. I'm sure this is a typo, but you'll need a 4.11 rear diff.
  9. I currently have a former WRX ('95 JDM version) transmission in my Impreza. Needed to convert a hydraulic to a cable type. Needed to change the clutch fork, move the pivot ball, remove the hydraulic stuff and install. Works great!
  10. If my older Brat is running by then, I'll look forward to being there.
  11. I can sympathize with you, but it's reality. I've been watching the price of Brats rise for the last 8 years. Currently, there's been a slight dip due to the current state of the economy. Crap or not, that's the way it is.
  12. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/index.php/news/article/rally_america_to_launch_european_style_rally_cross_racing_in_2010/
  13. I'm with John on this, definitely replace the bulb first; that's most likely your problem.
  14. Your Forester will have a 4.444 rear; not sure what the final drive is on your current car.
  15. Subaru 5 speed transmissions pretty much interchange over a fairly wide spread of model years. Just watch the rear diff ratio and whether it's a cable or hydraulic clutch (although even that can sometimes be converted). Check out the USRM for transmissions that would suit you. A Forester transmission would probably work just fine for you. Lastly, try to match up engine types (e.g. I wouldn't install a EJ18 transmission in your Outback even if it might fit).
  16. Also, our '82 Brat was valued at $3950 when we sued in small claims court when the insurance company refused to give us more than $1100 for it. Of course we had data to support our claim and the taxi driver who we had to sue (not the insurance company) didn't have any evidence to counter our list of comparables. You can look at it (the gold colored one) in my photo album section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=87
  17. Even rusty ones are fetching $500 to a $1000 if they're in running condition.
  18. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11225&highlight=Prairie+City http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1221 http://www.formularallyx.com/novemberfest.shtml
  19. I should be there also; even if I'm not getting a tree this year.
  20. I'm pretty sure I have some used cone washers. PM me a mailing address and I'll try to get a few into the post office tomorrow.
  21. Remove the t-top and inspect the corners of the body where the t-top sits. There are two drain holes in each corner. If they clog up, water will find another way to leak into your car. A straightened coat hanger wire is what I used to clear out the ones in my '84 Brat.
  22. Smart that you installed the WRX swaybars; I found that was a must on my rallycross Impreza. Any chance that the wrecked legacy T donor car had a usable 5MT? That would be a smart addition if possible (see my previous post). Don't forget to take the rear diff too if it doesn't match yours.
  23. Well until you get the new engine in, consider switching to 14" rims and tires. I found my '94 was a "stone" with the 16" WRX rims/tires that were installed by the previous owner. When I switched, the car's entire character changed. You might consider getting 14" winter tires; they're cheaper and will give you a noticeable increase in pickup.....especially in the mountains. As to the transmission: that is a weak spot. I now have a '97 model L wagon which is my daily driver and weekend rallycross car. I got it with 120K on it and I'm now on my fourth transmission, 50K miles later. Of course every transmission (except the last) had around 120K on it when I pulled it off a wreck at the Pull a Part yard (I'm a very low budget rallycrosser). But the tranny is a weak spot and will be more so with your turbo engine. I am currently driving a JDM transmission off a front clip imported from Japan that was originally a '95 WRX transmission with 45K on it. It required some modification to install but nothing major and it is so sweet that it's rediculous. I would look for a Forester/Outback transmission or something that came off a beefier engine than yours. Subaru transmissions interchange over a large span of years with no, or just minor modification. Just remember that you likely have a 4.111 rear diff in your car and you'll need to match that up to whatever transmission you install. I'd stick with the 4.111 sets.
  24. I love my scan guage II. Got it as a special request for Christmas two years ago and installed it as soon as I could. Its best feature is the ability to read and reset CEL codes easily; if nothing else this was worth the price. I leave it set to monitor rpm, alternator volts, mph and water temp. MPH can be calibrated to whatever tires I'm using (I switch tires winter/summer). I can see the thermostat open and close when watching the water temp. The alternator voltage will warn me when the alternator is failing BEFORE my battery goes dead. RPM is just cool to have a digital version which is more accurate than the analog meter on the car. I've found that the MPG setting is okay, but I found myself watching that number more than the road so I no longer monitor that for safety reasons. Besides it reads the throttle position and compares it to the speed and calculates MPG that way. I know how much throttle I'm using without a guage to tell me. It has lots of other features that I'm too lazy to read the manual to set. Yes, I got sucked into the special setting required to make it work in my Impreza. Called the place where I got it from and they couldn't tell me why it would shut off every 15 seconds (they shall remain nameless). I called the manufacturer, and their rep pointed me to the right page in the manual pretty quickly after I told him I had a Subaru.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.