edrach

Just add to the test, run the rpm up to 3000 and watch the voltage across the battery; it should climb up to a maximum of around 14.5VDC. A better test is to repeat the same voltage tests with the headlights on high beam and as many other current loads you can add (blower, brake lights, etc.); you should get similar results if the alternator is working up to snuff.

Just get two rear axles at the junkyard and disconnect the axle and innner joint and use the outer joints to hold the rear wheels on. Then all you need to do is remove the rear diff (or leave it on after you removed the drive shaft). It should get you a small decrease in gas consumption. Sell the original rear axles to recover some of your costs.

Are you trying to drive in 4WD on pavement or dirt? I'm not sure about the automatics, but my old 5MT did not drive well in 4WD on pavement even with matched tires. If you really need another diff, it might be worth your while to drive down to Smokey Point PAP. Rear diffs are $25 plus tax and a small core charge there.

Carbs Unlimited in Fife, WA has the most detailed information on Weber carbs that I've found. They stock most everything you need or can order what they don't have. http://www.carburetion.com/weber/weber.htm

Pics from Day 1,

Shouldn't be too hard. Boot is replaceable and if the diaphragm is torn, that's replaceable too. There's a place in Fife that reps Webers and they should have the parts for you. Too bad I can't remember the name. Maybe it'll come to me.

An outstanding rally. Probably the best event my wife and I have ever run. Late entries brought the number to 37; a new record for this event. The event ran on time, the roads were awesome (and not car breakers except for a water crossing), speeds were just right for the roads we were on, and instructions clear and detailed. We saw twenty four checkpoints on the first day (there were more) and I counted 21 on day 2. In spite of that, scores on the first day were posted before the banquet ended and we could get to bed at a reasonable hour to prepare for the next day. Sunday had the most awesome hillclimb I've ever seen on a TSD rally. The event ended at a local Moses Lake park with a club sponsored BBQ. Lots of good food, results posted quickly and most competitors on their way home before 5 PM. The only downside was a water crossing that came up quickly (even with the milages warning you that it was there) and a number of Subarus discovered their radiators were mounted in plastic which sheared off and put them out of commission. Fortunately, my Impreza was not one of them. Only downside for me was wearing out a perfectly good set of rallycross tires in one event.

http://www.oregonrally.com/files/rx_5_31_2009.pdf http://shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=15202

Trying to get the a/c working on my '84 Brat. Significant leak in the system; most likely the front seal of the compressor. One autoparts store locally had a seal listed but can't get any. I have two compressors available at home and I'll publish part numbers when I get home. I'm also looking for the o-rings for the suction and discharge hoses as they attach to the compressor.

WRX seats fit in Impreza. I don't know what years, but I have '03 WRX seats in my '97 Impreza (got them from my son who had them in his '96 Impreza. Only issue is the mounting holes and bolts; one seat uses 4 and another uses 5; I just skipped the extra one since four is all that's needed. The other item is you MUST use the original seat-belt receiver from the Impreza on the WRX seats. By the way WRX seats are way more comfortable. Also, RS seats will fit also.

Roads are interesting too. Often rains during the event and the clay dirt becomes slicker than snot.

I'm an ex-east coaster. Ran about a half dozen STPR events.....back in the 1980's:eek:. Wellsboro is a really pleasant small town to live in. Almost took a job there at one time. I'm glad it didn't work out since I'm a west coast convert.

Sorry you're so bummed out about this, but it's a fact of life with AWD. If you can design an AWD system that doesn't care about tire size, you'd make a fortune. I've only had this issue once and I've already posted my solution. You'd be even more bummed to know what a damaged viscous coupling costs on a 5MT transmission.

Have you cleaned changed the air filter. A dirty filter will make it run rich. Also, can you lean out the mixture on the carb. I finally got mine to pass by replacing the Hitachi with a weber. Where are you located; if you're in Seattle I have a solution for you.

Cool, wish I had known this before. I'll definite see you about them next time I have to get wheels powder coated.

GD, great price on the sandblasting. Next time I have a set of wheels I want done, I'll bring them down to Portland and have you do them. Worth my while. Thanks for the information.

I have a FSM for my '97 Impreza which has a whole chapter on specific diagnostics using the select monitor. I can copy them off for you and mail them if you think it will help. Also, try danbob on nasioc and he might be able to help you out.

I had a similar situation recently and couldn't find a slightly worn tire to match up with the other three. I bought two new ones of the same brand and size, put them on the front where they'll wear quicker and moved the fronts to the rear. Now I have a spare tiere that matches the two in the back. When the tires are evenly worn again, I'll start rotating front to rear to keep them all even.

Check your local tire place, they'll know. But ask a few places to make sure they don't want to sell you a full set. If I remember correctly, on a 16" tire, tred depth on all four should be less than 3/32" different.

Great job, Geoff. It's a pleasure to see someone really save some wheels from the scrap heap. Outside of the rust, the wheels were really fine.

Yup. sorry.

If you're looking at it while working on the engine, replace it. If you don't you'll be sorry later.

From the USRM: Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct) is the tool I use to knock out the roll pin. The right diameter and just long enough to knock out the pin without getting stuck in the hole. Plus when it wears out I get another for free from Sears.

True enough, but it's truly easier to drive the pin in from the bevelled hole and out from the other side.

The ac condensor is in front of the radiator. The condensor is a heat exchanger; that is, it throws off hot air....right into the radiator. The second fan is there to get more air flowing through the radiator to keep the car from overheating while running at low speeds or waiting for the light to change while the ac is on.