Dante

Austin, when can I pick up those rear disks? I sent a couple e-mails and PMs but haven't received a response from you yet. I need to know when and where I can pick them up and pay you. I'm not tryint to be a pest. I just want to get the brakes and get them on before something else comes up. You can e-mail me at "dante at orrtax.com" or PM me. Thanks! Dante

It went for $1,900 I have a buddy who says the '80-81s had round headlights. He thought the car in the photos was an '82. :cornfuzz:

Thanks. I'll probably just meet everyone at McD's

Exactly where and when are people meeting on Saturday? I don't think I can make the whole thing--might have to work. I might be able to say hello and pick up a goodie Qman's got for me if I know where and when to find everyone. I was up the North Fork of the Snoqualmie last weekend and it did not take long to find snow. I think there's more on the way, too. P.S. SuBaRallyVovo, if you can find a ride home I can probably give you a ride to the Xmas tree run.

I recently sent this to http://www.asapmotors.com: I am looking for a JDM *dual-carburetor* ea-81 engine for my 1983 Subaru GL 4WD Wagon. Please let me know if you have or can get the *dual carb* ea-81 or at least the heads and the cam. Here's their response: We have a nice engine in stock. It is a low mileage engine that has leak down tested, inspected internally, cleaned, palletized & is ready for shipping. The cost of the engine is 1,195.00 If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Thank You John 888-221-1440 ext 226 http://www.asapmotors.com Whomever calls first can have it. I found a dual-carb long block and will be using a Joe Souza intake, a Weber DGES and a custom y-pipe.

Bump--Anyone know of a Seattle area shop that can build me a custom y-pipe? Anyone know if Stratus does exhausts?

Try a search. I've posted a bunch of topics on the same topic as have others. There is a pretty comprehensive list of modifications in two recent threads I started. You can search my user name and "performance" to find them...

Thanks EZ--I'll try to hold out for a set of those (or maybe just start collecting until I have five).

I'm with caboobaroo. I'd get an '83 or '84 wagon (turbo or not) and build the crap out of it--lift, nice wheels and tires, 5-speed D/R, rear disks, built motor, exhaust, etc.

The only cosmetic modification I have considered (besides the spare tire power bulge hood idea) is a two-tone paint job sort of like this: I'd remove the cladding and do the bottom in black Herculiner and the top in flat O.D. with a wavy border in between going just over the top of each wheel well. I won't do it too my wagon because the paint is still pretty nice....

I have time to shop for a good set of pugs. The drilled Chevy wheels will do for now and the rubber has another year in it. Larger studs and nuts sounds like a good idea if I stick with the drilled Chevy wheels. One of my lugs has torn up threads and is missing a lug anyway. Need to get that fixed... A six-lug conversion would also address my concern, but I understand doing that to rear disks can be tricky (less material, IIRC) and rear disks are definitely on my list of things to do. IIRC Qman has both (rear disks and six-lugs), but i'll probably just snag some pugs...

Hassey, I don't know if I am following you. Would the spare swing, or would you just pull a pin or bolt and slide the whole mounting assembly out to open the hatch? A roof mount is definitely more practical. I think there may be a safari rack in my future, anyway I said my idea was goofy in the subject, but it is fun and the safety angle is one I had not thought of. My car is pretty straight. I would only want to do the hood thing if I could store my hood and cut a hole in a junk yard hood--I don't want to mess with my cowling. If you could mount the spare so you could cut the hole just ahead of the back edge of the hood, I think it would also be easier to reinforce and/or to add a cover. Last night I had the idea of fabricating a sheet metal or fiberglass "power bulge" that would rise from near the front of the hood back to the cowling to cover the spare. It would give the car a tongue-in-cheek "muscle car" look

Hmm... That's another reason to consider a Supertrapp disk-only muffler. Here's what the manufacturer claims: Remove discs to decrease the exhaust opening and increase back pressure. -This decreases the powerband to give you more low-end torque. -Decreases the exhaust tone. -Enriches the carburetion. Add discs to increase the exhaust opening and reduce back pressure. -This increases the powerband to give you more top- end. -Increases the exhaust tone. -Leans out the carburetion. I learned about them at www.subarubrat.com You could also remove disks to pass emissions and then add them for actual driving

My car came with re-drilled Chevy rims. I know a lot of people have been running them for a long time with no problems, but they make me nervous. Ideally, I'd like to have 14" or 15" 4x140 wheels with the proper offset, but since those are too expensive ($100+ per wheel), I'll settle for Pugs. That's just my $.02--I'm definitely not criticizing anyone else's choice. When I get some pugs I'll sell the Chevy wheels here.

OK, I've tried a bunch of searches (can't search 15" but I tried 15*) and looked at the wheel page, but I still have some questions: 1. How hard are the 15" steel Pugs to find? 2. Are the 15" Pug steels desireable? One peerson I spoke with said I wanted the 14s because the 15s aren't as strong because they are spares or something. He may have been thinking of the 15" Subaru spares. 3. If the 15" Pugs are desireable, how much should I expect to pay for a set of five? 4. What are the differences among the steel 14s? Do slots, holes, etc. make a difference? (I'd like to avoid the weird 2-piece lug nuts with the washer thingies.)

I don't know what the first guy I talked to was smokin' but the salesperson I spoke with today said the Hummer & Power Wagon wheels are the only ones available in 4x140 and they are $155 each plus shipping The only other option is to cut the center out of a Subaru or Peugeot wheel and weld it into a larger or wider wheel. He said he had one customer who did that.

So are you saying a 5.25" back side is the limit? Wouldn't bigger tires reduce that? At the lock, the edge of a 27" tire will be farther in on the inside and farther out on the outside than the stock 22" tire. What is the offset on the six-lug Chevy wheels people drill extra holes in to use on our cars? The drilled Chevy six-lugs that came with my car fit OK. I suppose I could use the same offset/back side measurement. They only stick out of the wheel well about an inch. If I went with a smaller tire, I could probably increase the offset/backside measurement by an inch to keep the tire in the wheel well.

Big tires would make it hard to see

I had a similar idea, but I was thinking of usine part of one of those hard SUV tire covers. Maybe the idea's not so goofy after all.

I've seen pictures of one of those on a wagon--looked sweet. Unfortunately, it was part of an expensive looking custom rear bumper. My buddy's built a couple Samurais and Diesel Landcruisers. He's trying to talk me into letting his guy build me a front bumper with a winch and a rear with a spare and fuel-can carrier, but if I did everything he's suggesting, I'd end up with a $10,000 '83 Sube

I have a goofy idea for mounting the spare tire. Assuming there is enough room between the cowling ahead of the windshield and the air filter (I'll be running a weber with a filter that's smaller than the stock airbox) why couldn't I get a hood at the scrap yard, cut a hole in it and reinforce it to make up for the structural pieces that were in the hole? I know you would have to change the tire support a little and maybe cut the cowling, too (which I would not want to do), but if you could work it our it would give the car a cool '60s Land Rover look. I know a roof rack would be more practical and easier to implement, but...

I haven't got a response yet for the 15's pictured above. On the phone they said I could have 15x6s or 15x7s for the $60 to $70 quoted in the subject. I don't know which wheels they were referring to, though. The ones pictured are the only one in the catalog that say "any bolt circle..."

Thanks Mike. I'll hold off on the snorkel for now. Unless/until I get serious about foru wheelin' I'll just run a Pipercross PX300 oiled foam filter with the Weber base (from TREUCHOICE). I alternate between a K&N panel and a Pipercross panel in my VW. The seat of my pants and Pipercross's testing says they both breathe about the same, but Pipercross filters are cheaper and filter better (based on the test results I have seen). I'll go to JAM Engineering though, when I need a snorkel. I'll let everyone know how everything works out. Don't hold your breath . . . this project may take a while

Thanks. I just missed the end of the auction for the '82 FSM. Now there's an '81 up there. I'll check the completed auctions for prices.

Muchas gracias