jamal

Nope. In a Subaru Manual transmission, the output shaft is directly connected to the center diff. Power has to go through it to get to the front or rear wheels.

With a 4eat all you have to do is put in the fuse and it won't try to engage the center clutch pack. It's not recommended to drive around like that for long periods of time. As far as the 5mt, the center diff and clutch pack are not capable of transferring all the power to the front or rear. So driving and accelerating slowly it might handle it, but you are putting a ton of stress on the coupling. You must be experiencing some sort of slippage and eventually you won't go anywhere.

A fried Viscous Coupling does not lock up. The fluid overheats and loses it's ability to resist shear, and thus do anything. The VC acts to limit speed differences between the front and the rear of the center differential, not as a coupling to transfer power to the rear. Once you've fried the VC, the center differential is open. This means it won't transfer any power to the front if the rear wheels aren't connected.

front section to what bearing? If you disconnect drive to the rear wheels the car won't go anywhere. The center diff cannot transfer 100% of the power to the front, so it will move until the viscous coupling loses all ability to resist shear, which would occur in about 10 seconds.

The viscous coupling will fry, and the rear output section will just spin. It won't move and gear oil will leak out the rear of the transmission.

I have a 97 Legacy 2.5GT front swaybar which is 20mm, and a turbo legacy 18mm rear swaybar. Whiteline makes aftermarket bars.

dibs on the motor p.s. you're both idiots. E:F:B

one other thing to note is that the chance you'll also need hubs is pretty good. If there is even a slight lip worn into the part that goes into the bearing, the new bearings will get trashed in a very short period of time.

Exactly what I've done. Although I just leave it buckled and duck under it when I get in the car.

They bolt right up and aren't any different than yours. The parking brake is taken off so you'd have to transfer them over.

are you people retarded?

My friend has a set of rear knuckles from an 05 WRX. $100+shipping. PM me if you want them.

I'm going to a local shop this afternoon to pick up some things. I'll see if he has some rear hubs.

Check the local forum on nasioc, WRX or whatever hubs will work. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=96 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12

90-94 cars didn't have a speed limiter. Downhill with the wind an L can hit 120+ mph. I think the 95+ cars are limited to 110 or so, which would explain the S rating (112mph), which is pretty low. Tires with higher ratings are stronger and can withstand higher loads and temperatures. To determine the speed rating, they put it on a roller and increase the speed by 10kph every 10 minutes until it fails. So slower and lighter cars use tires with lower speed and load ratings. The load rating is something else you need to think about. It's possible the S-rated tires you're looking at also have a lower load rating, but I think that's mostly related to the size. Either way, an S rated tire will be operating closer to it's limit than an H rated tire, and I wouldn't put them on my car. They're the last thing you want to cheap out on.

yes the knuckle is the same and will bolt up, but an Impreza uses ball bearings and the Legacy uses a tapered roller bearing. Much better, especially for the heavier car. A set of Legacy rear disc knuckles with usable hubs should be pretty easy to find and not very expensive. I got a front one for $35 shipped awhile back through an online junkyard search. Also check local shops in your area that work on Subarus or build rally cars or something. Usually they have entire rear ends for pretty cheap.

Pre-99 impreza rear bearings are not as good, and a new backing plate will have to be pressed on for the rear discs. I'd keep looking.

I have the same before and after sizes. Not really enough of a difference for me to care and it was actually more accurate according to gps.

yeah, funny thing is I actually considered it since we have some of that stuff laying around at work. Instead I just use the IR thermometer. The point is that changing the wheels won't fry the bearings.

Damn that's what I need. I have the CRC grease splattered all over my wheels (my pads are good up to 950 F).

I know Subaru bearings tend to be pretty weak, but that's ridiculous. For one the SVX has brakes bigger than what is on the wrx, and those wheels are very open. Secondly the best way to keep things cool is to draw air into the center of the rotor from the back. Thirdly would Subaru really design it so that if you didn't have the little 'air scoop' wheels the bearings and brakes would fry? Fourthly some sort of evidence of this would be nice. Have you attached thermocouples to the brakes/bearings and done laps around a track with and without the stock wheels to compare brake temps?

The smaller 2-pot calipers with 276mm rotors are on a lot of cars. 98-07 Impreza RS 96-02 Legacy GT 02+ Legacy L/2.5i Most Outbacks, Foresters, Bajas Still, no reason to upgrade. Just put on good pads, flush the fluid replce any cracked boots, and re-grease the slide pins. The brembo pn for the front rotor is 25369 and they're $36 at tire rack.

Only the 05+ STi. Also the tribeca. WRX is still 5x100. I think an SVX looks awesome with STI wheels:

Nothing wrong with slotted rotors. They hum (which I thought was pretty cool) and wear out the pad a bit quicker. Cross drilling creates stress concentrations in the rotor as the temperature changes, remove pad to rotor contact area, and reduces the mass of the already somewhat small rotors. The added surface area doesn't make up for any of that. My concern with the e-bay stuff is how straight it's going to be out of the box. I'd stick with the mid-range parts store rotor or better for the front. Brembo blanks from somewhere like tirerack, importrp.com, or buybrakes.com are pretty cheap. I had parts store ceramic pads for about a month. They were okay for normal driving but could not compare to the Hawk HPS pads I had before. Now I'm on Axxis Ultimates which are also good. I also need a little more out of my brakes than the average person and participate in road rallies and go on a lot of fun drives in the mountains. The Axxis, Hawk, and similar pads do need a bit of warming up before they work really great, and will wear out the rotor faster. The only thing that will have a significant effect on stopping distance is the tires. However, going to bigger brakes and better pads does make a difference as far as feel goes, and lets you brake harder at higher speeds with more confidence.

after you clean off the hat you can spray it with some high temp paint. That will keep it from happening so quickly.