jamal

It's probably just the slide pins. Brake grease is good for higher temps than a standard wheel bearing grease too. The red Mobil 1 synthetic stuff is good for something like 250 degrees F, where as CRC synthetic caliper grease is good for 600 deg. Last weekend I melted a good portion of mine off, too. Having only the inner pads wear unevenly makes me think it's related to the pistons though.

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/bcstereo/ more info about getting the dimmer to work here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402

yeah, the 92-94 Legacy rear tops and upper spring seats are the same as those on a 93-01 Impreza. Make sure you also get 92-94 (or 93-01 Impreza) struts because the 90-91s have the lower spring perches welded on at different heights (front and rear). All the front tops are the same, so just make sure you get the upper front perches that match the springs.

The springs with a smaller upper diameter are for 90-91 Legacies. Stick with the newer stuff.

Get the whitelines. I don't think those other ones come in a wagon application. Check e-bay for KYB GR2 struts on the cheap. It will be slightly lower and slightly stiffer than stock.

Awhile ago when I was trying to figure out exactly which transmission came with what gear ratios I found a great chart that listed all the part numbers and ratios and center diff types for manual transmissions. I'm sure the same thing exists for automatics but I can't find it. Anyway, the other issue that could be a problem between transmissions of the same 'phase' is the speed sensor. As far as I can tell the plugs and pinouts will be the same but I've heard there are mechanical and electronic speed sensors. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=595297

you can't. But vrg3 made a cool piece of software that allows you to splice a stereo harness to a serial cable and monitor various thing with a laptop. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16219 Might not work for non- firstgen legacies. Also, the MPG gauges in older BMWs are nothing more than a vacuum gauge with calibrated mpg units.

when they were moving water would have been going into the hood, into the intake, and into all the breather hoses on the driveline. Not to mention in the car it's up to the seat bottoms at least.

I noticed a big difference but I changed my front swaybar and put in urethane swaybar bushings at the same time. From what I've heard lately the endlinks, even the plastic rear c-links, don't flex all that much. Either way the car settles into corners right away and is quicker to change direction. They do break sometimes with bigger bars though, which is a better reason to upgrade.

I don't know if those endlinks will work with the 00+ multi-link, and on top of that they're backwards. The 'C' faces toward the rear of the car.

wheel bearings don't make a whining squealing sound. They make a low humming and get louder with speed and as you corner and put load on that wheel. Probably something accessory belt or power steering pump related. Wheel bearing is a pretty tough do it yourself job because they're pressed into the knuckles. If you search you will find a lot on the subject.

Yeah, by losing one of the turbos.

sounds inner tie rod/steering rack/rack bushing related. Start with the bushings, it's easy assuming you don't break off a bolt. You can get urethane ones from Prodrive, Whiteline or Superpro for $25. They make a huge difference and don't add any noise or vibration. When was the alignment done? I had a bit of toe out which causes the car to not track well or settle into high speed corners. I thought it was a bad steering rack, but the problem went away when I got the car re-aligned.

I seem to have misread cars101.

All 90-94 Legacies have rear discs. All brighton and 95-96 L Legacies have rear drums, and from 97-01 rear discs were an option on ABS equipped L models. All the LS, LSi, and GT cars have rear discs.

All but a few 90+ subarus are 5x100. Those exceptions are the SVX, 05+ STI, and B9 Tribeca. On top of that, Any set of brakes from any of the cars not listed will bolt up to any other car (with one more small exception). To give you an idea of how interchangeable most parts are, my 93 Legacy has WRX wheels, tires, brakes, front seats, radio, struts, and brake lines, among other things. Any other "new gen" Subaru wheel will fit on any other Subaru. The only brake clearance problem is when you try to put smaller wheels on a car with bigger brakes like the WRX. Here is your local for sale forum on nasioc: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=138 It wouldn't hurt for you to give that a browse.

offset needs to be at least +50mm with a 7" or narrower rim, which makes aftermarket stuff harder to find. You may want to check out rotas at subydude.com. Otherwise most Subaru OEM wheels will fit, like these: 96-99 16" Legacy 2.5GT wheels. found the pic here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1035008

Yeah that sounds fine. But like I said, having more pressure in the front with a front heavy car means the front and rear tires have closer to the same rolling circumference. I run 0-3 less psi in the rear depending on load. If I've got all my crap in the car for a trip home to Montana I'll have even pressure all around. It's not really that big of a deal I'm just kind of anal about things sometimes. So it goes with my profession I guess.

no, that is the max for a cold tire and should be fine. The ratings on the door are also for cold tires.

running the max listed on the sidewall might get you an extra 0.5mpg, but grip will suffer because your contact patch is shrunken and the center of the tread bulges out a bit. It could result in uneven tire wear, and braking distance and cornering ability will definitely suffer.

There is more weight on the front so you need a bit more pressure. It evens out the contact patches and rolling circumference and stuff. Adding a few psi stiffens up the tire a bit and I run 37/35ish on 205/55-16s. bounciness = blown struts / underdamped suspension

Depends on how good of a dirt tire you need. Some all seasons are pretty good on dirt.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/bad/bad.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/good/good.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html http://www.rallylights.com/hella/bulb_help.htm If you really want a good bulb, order some Narva Rangepower +50s from Daniel Stern. If you want to plug your ears and close your eyes and scream "la la la la la I can't hear you," you can go ahead and do that too.

I wonder how many times I'm going to have to say this: Sylvania Silverstars are crappy bulbs

And there's what I was talking about. "=120/110" Due to the tint they have the color temperature a 120/110w bulb might have. They're not actually brighter and don't put out more light than a good non-tinted bulb.