jamal

no. Blue/purple/hyperwhite is bad in EVERY situation. Any HID conversion that fits in a standard headlight housing is bad. 100w bulbs are probably not legal and might melt your wiring/headlights. I would suggest a set of aux driving lights if you really need more lighting. Hella FF1000s are very bright and a great value (I have some).

any light that says xenon on it and is not an actual xenon arc HID is not actually filled with xenon. It just says "color of xenon" or "look of HID" or whatever. They are all halogen with tinted bulbs, and are crap. Actually they do add like 5% xenon to some halogen bulbs and they might be better.

GT wagon stuff would work but is only a slight improvement. If you really want a good setup find some JDM bilsteins. One other option is a set of KYB AGX adjustable struts with either Whiteline control springs or ground control sleeves if you want something stiffer.

sylvania silverstars are crap. Osram silverstars are good. Sylvania xtravision is the best bulb commonly available in the US. anything that claims to be "as bright as xenon," or "xenon," or anything like that, and any bulb that is tinted, is crap. danielsternlighting.com has two very good articles on the subject.

group N mounts are stiffer and something like $60 each. If you do that you might want to look at stiffer pitch stoppers and transmission mounts too. There's a group n mount for the 5-speed and rallitek makes a bushing for automatics.

Why a filter? I'd rather get an inline cooler.

Subiegal. Or get a used set from someone on nasioc who upgraded to group N. Any EJ mounts will work.

If you want them for rallyx or something get another set of wheels to switch off. They'll have crappy traction and wear out very quickly on pavement.

good call. There are a few importers who might be able to get that stuff too. jdmpartstx brings in a lot of stuff but it's mostly new impreza specific. I'd rebuild an 8-10 year old strut before putting it on the car though.

a lot of stuff will bolt up but won't really work well. The fact that you have a wagon means you need something that is Legacy wagon specific or the rear will sag. A good budget setup would be Whiteline control springs, which as far as I know are the only legacy wagon specific spring, along with some KYB GR2 struts. The whole setup will be a bit lower and stiffer than stock.

The knuckle itself is probably out of round, and is the reason you keep going through them. Get one from a junkyard for like $30 and have a new bearing and hub pressed in. If there is even a tiny little groove or lip on the hub, it needs to be replaced as well. Otherwise the bearing will be toast in short order. All rear bearings have been superseded to the better tapered roller bearings, so now they're all the same. Since they've been replaced that's what you have. You definitely do not need to repack a new Subaru bearing. Source

You're still not making sense here. Do you mean that the scrub radius moves inward?

I'm not talking about $2000 in wheels and tires. You said a taller tire grips better. It doesn't.

How does negative camber equate to riding on the outside of the tire?

The tread is the same width, you're running the same pressure. The only added contact you'll be getting is from the sidewall as it rolls over under cornering. Riding on the sidewall does not increase grip. To maximize grip you want the actual tread surface to stay flat on the road, which means stiffer, shorter sidewalls. I won't even get into the camber curve issues because we're just talking about tires. These are not drag slicks. To get the kind of deformation that increases grip under acceleration you need to be running like 10psi. You really can't compare the two. yes racing tires do have soft compounds, so that they stick to the ground. The sidewalls, however, are extremely stiff, in order to keep that sticky surface on the ground and to decrease slip angles. Watch an F1 car with a flat tire or blowout. They can drive around on just the sidewalls. I'd like to see these numbers. Not to mention the fact that "more precise road feel" and increased responsiveness do to the lower slip angles needed to generate cornering forces mean a whole lot when it comes to good handling. Even if an 85 series tire could generate just as much cornering force on a skid pad as a 40-series, it would be a lot slower on a slalom or a road course or something.

call pdm-racing and boxer4racing. If they don't have something they might know who does. Try oakos and kastle's korner too.

no, you don't want to be cutting coils. Seconding Whiteline control springs.

yes any Impreza or 95+ Legacy headunit should plug right in. I'm using an 05 WRX 6-disc changer but did have to make a harness because I have an older car. Lots of info here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402

offset is about the same? Like how close? How about the centerbore? I don't see the point in trying to fit junky caravan wheels when used Subaru wheels are for sale for cheap all over nasioc and will fit perfectly. For example: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1249830 (I wouldn't pay more than $175 for those though)

Are you ************ing kidding? Christ if I wanted to put ten grand into my car it would have a full STi driveline/dash swap and about 400hp.

haha yeah. I had my fuse in for about half a day when I was running a spare and was getting unintentional wheelspin all over the place. Then I did it on purpose a few times.

92 has clear rear turn signals and uses different rear lateral links and endlinks. Other than that no mechanical differences that I know of.

Isn't it bright yellow? Mine is anyway.

his interchange thing is wrong if it's really a 91 legacy. Rear 2wd knuckles obviously won't exchange but the front will. You should the newest one you can find though. The bearing in my junkyard knuckle lasted less than a year before I had to have the bearing and hub replaced. If you have abs I think the tone rings are in different places on different cars but you mightd be able to take your old one off and put it in the right place on the new part.

might want to get better pads and/or upgrade to wrx sized front rotors by getting new brackets. Having a better pad that is suited to higher temps means it won't overheat and leave uneven deposits on the rotor as easily. Some examples: Hawk HPS, EBC redstuff and yellowstuff, axxis ultimate, carbotech bobcat Also make sure the lug nuts are tightened properly with a torque wrench. Otherwise the wheel will squeeze the rotor unevenly and it will warp. No, it's not. I have the same tiny brakes on my car and take it road rallying and up on fun roads in malibu. No TV or vibration with very hard use, including one time when I had smoke coming out of the wheels. I use a torque wrench when tightening my lugs and don't sit there stopped with my foot on the pedal when the brakes are hot. My last set of pads were hawk hps, which I couldn't get too hot on public roads. My current raybestos ceramics are crap compared to them. Next up I'm trying Axxis Ultimates with bigger brakes all around.