jamal

they sell them at pretty much every parts store and bookstore.

Pick up a chilton's/haynes manual. It has torque specs. Lug nuts are about all I actually put a torque wrench on, outside of engine components. For the brackets, it's "pretty tight," and for the caliper to bracket bolts it's "not quite as tight." Of course there are a few that you need to be careful on like endlinks and strut top bolts. And spark plugs, and the oil pan.

I don't suppose they'd let you swap in the rear crossmember and diff from an AWD soob, weld the diff, and remove the front axles to be rwd? That would really expand upon your suspension options, because there is nothing for FWD cars. Actually it might be possible to fit konis in the rear struts. I wouldn't bet on it though. If you haven't started building the car, why not just find a better group 2 platform? Also, if you haven't rallied or built a rally car before, why not buy a finished or partially finished used one? Generally that will save a lot of money.

You would have to pull the center diff out and weld it to the front output, and then find some way to remove the rear transfer/seal the back so that it would still work and not leak. I would find a fwd transmission.

Yes as far as I know 91+ is recommended for all 2.5s, and the STi needs 93.

hey that's good for more power then, right? Plus when the car is brand new it needs 91, how would seafoam change that?

What, through magic? I'm not saying you shouldn't seafoam the car, but the compression and timing (and FI) are what determine the need for higher octane to prevent pre-ignition and detonation. You're not pinging with 87 because octane requirements go down as elevation increases since the air pressure is lower.

uh, radial as opposed to what? All modern car tires are radial. If those are your choices you'd be just as well off flipping a coin.

the three tophat bolts only need 14 lb-ft and they're prone to breaking. Here's a good writeup that was recently posted on legacycentral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32233

The 07 Impreza has one, and that 6-disc changer will plug right into your 97. Check the nasioc classifieds and e-bay. My itrip is unusable in LA. When I leave it works great though.

Using google advanced search to search a domain usually works better than a message board's search engine. There shouldn't be anything wrong with your stock springs.

Sup Bosco. You'd also want to put bigger injectors on both cars and have a way to cut fuel pressure when running without it. If I were you I'd start with the brat, and then try to adapt it to the OBS once you have the kinks worked out. Yeah that's Douglas Vincent. With the number of motors he's gone through I wouldn't exactly call it "successful."

I think a lot of this "yeah the GR2s are stiffer" partially comes from going to new struts from old blown ones. Konis are expensive and pretty stiff. But they will fit in most subaru strut housings. Probably not outback stuff though because it's longer. Some guy on nasioc got them into STi housings but it's not easy. Oh, and KYB is stamped into my sti struts.

KYB makes most of the OEM struts, and the GR2s are pretty much the stock equivalent. I've heard 0-20% stiffer depending on the car.

The pads are what need to be bedded in. If they're stockish, it doesn't take much more than driving around normally. All you would ever want to know on the subject: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml

you have open front and rear differentials and a center differential with a viscous coupling to limit slip. The viscous coupling will transfer 28lb-ft with a 100rpm speed difference between the front and rear. I don't know how the transfer capability changes with different speed differences or the upper limit of how much can be transferred to the front or rear. If, for example, you had the front or rear wheels up on rollers, the VC would not be able to transfer the full power of the motor to the wheels with traction (assuming they had enough to not spin). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=618964&postcount=41

Napa lists different part numbers but they both have ej25s. I'd say there's a decent chance they'll work. Otherwise I just use purolators.

Most likely illegal, but on the plus side I think he has glass e-code headlights. So the good bulbs and a better harness would be a good idea.

yeah there is a really good chance you will melt the housings even if you upgrade the wiring. Plus it's illegal. Get some narva rangepower +50s (or equivalent), clear the lenses, and upgrade the harness though. If you still want more light get some aux driving lights.

It's very easy to remove and replace. Pretty much any other Subaru radio will swap right in, and used WRX 6-disc changers go for $40-80. If you remove the cupholder and ashtray you should be able to see the small screws holding the trim in place.

Yeah I'm from Missoula. I get the feeling it wouldn't go over so well down here though.

Why would it not be? Anyway, you could get a generic rack and then make yourself some brackets that attach it to the seat back or something like that. I don't know if a big shotgun will fit across though. Or do something like those pet barrier things that use compression to hold themselves between the floor and ceiling.

On top of that the old clutch pack system has nothing on VTD or DCCD

Duty C controls the pressure to the hydraulic center clutch pack. When you're rolling along and the solenoid is operating at 90%, it's sending fluid to the clutches which force them apart and allow the front and rear to spin at different speeds. There is still a small amount of resistance, which is where that 90/10 comes from. Once enough of a speed difference is detected between the speed sensors, or the TCU determines it necessary based on throttle input etc, the solenoid will drop pressure to the clutch, which allows the plates to come together and send more power rearward. The power split that is listed, ie 90/10, 50/50 for 5mt, and 41/59 for dccd, only applies when all four wheels are turning the same speed and a limited slip device is not in operation. Once a wheel slip occurs, the split depends on the amount of center lockup and the available traction at the front and rear.

There could be a risk of frying solenoid C by running it at 100% for an extended period of time.