jamal

Lighter outlet definitely cannot handle it. You would need to run a new plug from the battery with better wiring. For 20a, you would want to run 8awg wire with a fuse right at the positive terminal. Here's a convenient table: http://ken-gilbert.com/techstuff/AWG_WIRE_TABLE.html Other than that I don't see a problem. I have the section of the manual that show alternator output at specific rpm ratings at home so I could tell you the amperage at idle in a few hours if you'd like.

read all of these articles: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/blue.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html Then do whatever the hell you want I guess.

Sylvania silverstars are tinted, silverstar ultras are tinted. Drop in HID bulbs in your regular housings is about the worst thing you can do as far as lighting goes, since the filament is in a different place and the reflector is not designed to work with them. Sure, it will seem "bright" but you won't have a defined beam pattern and it will not light up the road very far in front of you. Steps for better lighting: 1. proper aim 2. new, good bulbs 3. cleared headlight lenses 4. upgraded wiring harness and relays to the lights 5. European glass headlights (LHD) 6. quality aux driving lights I've done 1-3 and 6, and upgraded wiring is next. When I really need to see far down the road in the dark, I flip on the Hella FF1000s.

Yeah, I send e-mails and make toast in my car, while talking on the cell phone drinking coffee and brushing my hair as I drive 80 through traffic on the freeway. Seriously, though, how necessary is it to have a printer in the car?

Yeah probably because those are crap garbage bulbs. Sylvania Xtravision is the only bulb anyone should get when they're browsing autozone or e-bay checking out the magical "like xenon," "cool blue," "100w equivalent," "hyper white," or whatever bull************ marketing description lights. (wow that's a lot of * for a four letter word) If you really want a step above that get a set of Osram Silverstars or Narva Rangepower +50 etc. Do not get higher wattage bulbs without upgrading the wiring harness and/or the housings, and even then, don't do it. If anyone still wants to disagree, read all of the danielsternlighting.com site before you post.

There are a lot of Subarus that have interchangeable struts, but your 07 ob is not one of them. The only thing that will work is stuff for 05-08 Legacies. Taking a cutting torch and hammer to the suspension of a brand new car is about the most retarded idea I've ever heard of. Like, I can't even figure out what you were intending to do. Bend control arms and various links or something? Yeah that would work great You are in luck though. megan racing makes budget coilovers for the outback that can lift the car. If I were you I'd try to contact one of their sales reps. I met one of them awhile back who had a lifted 06 outback.

I have some ingalls or intrax or something bolts with 04 sedan struts and they get me -1.5 degrees maxed out. Anything for any Impreza or WRX or whatever will work on your car. Nothing about them is really a pain in the rump roast as long as you install them right. Put them in the top hole, place the tab on the washer toward the inside (so the little tab that sticks into the strut hole in on the outside), and rotate the bolt so the cam is facing inside. That will get you max negative camber and ensure they do not slip.

I don't really think an FMIC is worth it. But here's some basic reading material on the subject: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=532948 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=529972

bigger turbo, injectors, protune, lose the bov. Your brakes are good. You might want to look into the Prodrive suspension kit they're working on for Legacies. Not sure if it's out yet but Dan had it on his car months ago.

it means teh vtec kicked in yo well, either that or what hondasucks said.

send these guys an e-mail: http://www.turninconcepts.com/ They sell subframe lock bolts and rear x-member bushings among other things. It's more likely an alignment problem. It could just be off, or you could have a problem with the lateral link or trailing arm bushings, or the toe adjustment bolts that attach the rear lateral links to the subframe.

Legacy777 wrote up how to check odb1 codes a very long time ago: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Hey good work on that long drawn out post that is mostly wrong. Lets start out with the fact that no Subaru automatic has a viscous coupling, and only the vtd cars have an actual center diff. They primarily use clutch packs. Then you say that the 4eat doesn't have a tps signal. The TCU does use the tcu signal, and clutch pack lockup is very dependent on throttle position. On top of that, many automatics do not even have wheel speed sensors. VSS1 and VSS2 are really all there is, but the 4eat awd system is proactive and will activate the center clutch before any difference between the two VSS signals. That's because the TCU reads more than the speed sensors to determine what to do with solenoid C. Next time you should at least read an endwrench article or two, and maybe parts of the FSM, before you start posting about how things work. Here's a nice list of the things the TCU monitors to control center clutch pack lockup that took me all of 30 seconds to look up on endwrench: Throttle sensor Idle switch VSS 1 VSS 2 Tach signal Inhibitor switch Cruise control signal ATF temp Ignition/battery voltage 1-hold/selector position/manual mode FWD mode source Oh, and please explain how "if a wheel sensor indicates a loss of traction it biases the torque to the opposite end of the car till they equalize in speed"

You crazy kids and your cassette tapes. 8 track is where it's at.

David Carter (svxdc) reverse harness + any newer subaru cd/tape deck = win http://jamalb.net/carsite/cdchanger.htm Don't solder, use properly crimped butt connectors. I think I'm going to need to re-do mine soon.

I don't think there is much difference as far as wear goes, but discs are simple, way easier to maintain, and provide better braking feel. If I were you I'd do it. In fact I upgraded my rear discs to bigger rear discs. I'll check the thickness of my old rotors and send them to you for the cost of shipping if they're good and you want them.

As far as I know the brackets haven't ever changed on an EJ subaru. The plug has, but all that means is you have to do a little wiring. WRX alternators are 75A, STi alternators are 90A. It would be nice to have a list of how the amperage varies between them all. There are places that will sell a HO alt for $200-400 as well, like Ohio Generator and Mean Green.

Here are a few places that I can recommend: Global Performance Parts phone: 616-399-9025 email: zacht@globalperformanceparts.com Product notes: US distributor of Whiteline, Superpro, and Go Fast Bits. Kartboy phone: 858-527-1109 e-mail: sales@kartboy.com Product notes: Endlinks, short shifters, bushings, Atomic Fireballs Kastle's Korner e-mail: sales@kastleskorner.com Product notes: Lots of aftermarket parts. Oakos Automotive phone: 866-97-OAKOS e-mail: sales@oakos.com Product notes: Lots of aftermarket parts. Prodrive USA phone: 714-541-0704 e-mail: Dan@prodrive.com Product notes: Performance aftermarket- springs, wheels, etc. Racecomp Engineering phone: 410-579-1501 e-mail: sales@racecompengineering.com Product notes: Suspension and brake products, racing oriented. Susquehanna Motorsports phone: 866-480-2159 e-mail: mail.mosports@verizon.net Product notes: Mudflaps, lights, other rally accessories, rally/lighting information Turn In Concepts phone: 513-235-5150 email: Product notes: Bushings and bushing related stuff mostly World One Performance phone: 206-938-7975 Product notes: More Subaru aftermarket stuff. I'll add some more later.

all four impreza struts work. To cause tire wear problems you need more negative camber than the stock bolts are capable of. As long as the toe is zeroed, anyway. I currently have -1.5 degrees all around and would like more in the front. Usually you want about 0.5-1 degree more than in the rear.

you're kidding, right? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=79 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=91

A set of AGX struts for a 93-01 Impreza will bolt up directly. It's the same thing with D-specs, which I have heard are much better than the KYBs, so if you can find those at a decent price go that way. Actually almost any Impreza strut will bolt in (exception 05-07 STI and the 08s), but the 02+ sedans have a wider track and will ruin your camber. Tires and an aggressive alignment (lots of negative camber) are THE BEST things you can do to improve handling. You will need to use Legacy wagon specific springs due to the heavier rear end of your car. Whiteline probably makes the best ones, and is, as far as I know, the only company that makes Legacy wagon specific springs. Globalperformanceparts.com is an importer most vendors get their Whiteline parts from and you can order from them directly. Anyway, here is what would be a very good setup, in order of importance: -Performance summer tires -As much negative camber as you can get with no cross camber -KYB AGXes ($380 on ebay) -whiteline 18-22mm adjustable rear swaybar (~$190) -whiteline control springs (~$300) -front polyurethane swaybar bushings (whiteline part number W0405-20) ($16) -whiteline or kartboy solid endlinks ($180) That would make for great handling and wouldn't be very stiff. If you happen to need new tie rods or ball joints get the new whiteline roll center adjustment kit too.

GR2s and a Whiteline 18-22mm rear swaybar would be good things to do. I found that upgrading the endlinks and swaybar bushings also made a very noticable difference. You have a 20mm front bar already. Also note that from what I can tell, GR2s are pretty much equivalent to the stock struts on your GT. Many people say, "oh, yeah, huge difference they're stiffer," but they're also coming from old struts. Strut performance really goes downhill after 50k miles or so and I would say maybe 3 people ever replace them that frequently. For something stiffer, the KYB AGX and Tokico D-spec are both good choices and adjustable. I would also recommend stiffer springs if you went that route, as the d-specs on full soft will still leave you with an over-damped (that's what your kidneys feel) system. With very good struts like ohlins ($2000 a set), springs that are 300lb/in or stiffer can still be used and not be too harsh. Of course, harshness is very subjective. I have no problems with my STi setup, which is stiff and a bit over-damped, but my friend's GF refuses to ride in the back seat.

do it. I got my bumper and fender from a guy who wanted $1800 for his totalled SS.

a bov is never worth the money on a MAF car. Unless you really like it when the car runs like crap because a bunch of air goes missing every time you lift off the throttle. BOV/BPV FAQ: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=468038

Call in the morning or PM Subiegal. I think the price for a box of 4 is different than if you buy them individually (which I didn't even know you could do).