jamal

how do your tires have broken belts and won't they possibly explode at any minute, especially when you're driving 100mph? I'd think until you eliminate that possibility there's no reason to worry much about anything else. And yeah, 3rd's good for 110 with my 4eat and 3.9 fd.

I think the point is to prevent the bite from getting infected. back on topic, the outbacks have taller swaybar mounts to put it farther from the body. You should be able to re-attach it with the car on the ground, so do that at least. You probably don't need to get new mounts.

Well he said it was n/a. Doesn't that make it a GT?

A little biased I'd say but I suppose that's expected. B9 sits there spinning all four on the rollers, then he backs down to get a run up it. "look how easy it powered up the rollers!"

Edit not quote.

Eariler ones clunked sometimes. Here are some discussions about it: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1098232 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520870 I suppose the addition unsprung weight could cause accelerated strut wear but it doesn't seem very likely to me. Struts don't usually get replaced under warranty I don't think anyway.

huh?

You can get a few extra HP with a freer-flowing exhaust and maybe some cams. Borla and OBX headers for a dual port will work for you and delta makes cams. There are a lot more options for suspension/brake stuff. There is quite a bit available in the aftermarket in that area, it just depends on what you want and how much you want to spend.

yeah, you can get a 1.5DIN pocket. I just had a piece of black plastic in the 1/2 din gap although now I'm looking for something cooler. I used to have a sony cd player that stopped playing cds, so I bought a 6-disc changer from an 05 wrx. Unfortunately it wasn't plug and play, but if you're going to buy something else you'll need to make a harness anyway. The CD player you buy will come with a harness, then you'll need a harness for your car, and will want to splice the wires together. Here's my writeup of the install. You'll probably also want to check out the rest of that site.

Pulling the code(s) would be a good first step. Directions are here.

After I hand tighten them I'm usually within less than a full turn of spec, which I think is probably more than adequate.

Because alloy wheels are softer. This says 67-70 lb-ft, which I haven't had any problems with. 80lb-ft is apparantly about the tightest you want because of the strength of the threads. I'll flip through a machinist's handbook at work tomorrow to see if that's true.

endwrench, the subaru global site, and cars101 all have good technical information, along with all the message boards out there.

Actually that GM 4-cyl is very, very durable and capable of good numbers on stock internals. There's a drag racing manual made by GM floating around that details how to make up to 1000hp with it. Actually I have it right here (28mb pdf) if you want to take a look. Plus I wouldn't want my turbos under the car towards the rear where all sorts of rocks and junk will get flung up at it.

Yeah those things have been around for awhile. Pretty terrible idea IMO, and I doubt there was no room under the hood. The exhaust going into that turbo is going to be pretty cold and going pretty slow, and look at how far the piping and coolant have to go. I guess this way you don't need a new exhaust manifold, but the supercharger from the cobalt SS would have been a much better and easier way to do it. Those shows kind of piss me off in general. I guess rides is better than pimp my ride though.

no you can pull the ecu fuse and there is also a procedure to just clear the codes. They're both explained in the link I posted.

All you need to do to pull the codes is connect the black connectors under the dash, turn the key to on, and read the CEL flashes. It will cycle through all the previously stored codes. Legacy777 has a guide on his site that also lists all the codes. If you have a laptop, you can also build a cable and use a scan tool vrg3 made, and read parameters/codes in real time.

sometimes mechanics forget to tighten things. I got an alignment awhile ago and had kind of a strange loose feeling on right corners. When I pulled the left front wheel off to take a look I found the bolt that attaches the strut to the knuckle was loose. Hopefully mentioning that will get me a free alignment after I install new balljoints and camber bolts next weekend. It is probably something with the caliper though. It's probably a good idea to take it back and have them make sure everything is tight, the slide pins are in good shape, and the rotors are straight. If you brake hard does abs kick in and work properly?

in fact, overtightening lugs is the only way to get warped rotors assuming they were straight in the first place. How long were they on and were they bedded in properly? I kind of doubt the problem is thickness variation so maybe a caliper bolt is loose or something. It could even be an alignment or wheel balance problem or something loose or damaged/worn out in the suspension/steering.

I quite often wish I had louder horns. Plus the stock horns sound pretty wimpy. Hmmm, I'd never heard of Fiamm. They're less than the Hellas, which I planned to eventually buy.

You can get a lightly used set from someone who swapped to group N mounts on the cheap (like $40 at most). I have those liquid filled ones and they're pretty soft. I plan to replace them one of these days.

I got a pretty funny letter from a dealership. It said to come by as possible because there is a high demand for my particular model and they want to buy it right away. I'm sure people are in dealerships every day asking when they're going to get the next shipment of 93 Legacies. I almost called them to say that I felt insulted that they thought I was going to fall for that.

My car vibrates a bit more than usual when the ATF is low. Have you checked that?

folder

A couple of triangular support flanges would probably take care of it actually. I've wondered if maybe having worn motor mounts or not a flexible enough flex-pipe was the main contributer to this. Or maybe it was crappy construction. Was it your header that just had a couple of spot welds? Has anyone had one of the new ones that are supposedly better crack?