rverdoold

I guess it is a Non-interference engine. I would remove the timing belt and put the valves manually closed on both sides and try to measure again the compression. You can only get that low number if there is a hole. But you mentioned HG is good, so it must be either rings or valves then. And since it is all 4, rings would be unlikely and valves only when the timing is dead off. And test maybe the gauge on an other engine and see if it goes up, maybe it is blocked or something. Just a thought.

Would more suspicious the timing is well off. A hard shift can cause to have a load on the crank and when the timing belt tensioner is broken/loose or just bad you can skip couple of notches. Normally manual gearboxes have a protective guide over the crank-axle sprocket to prevent tooth jumping. Just in case this piece is or went missing it could have happened. Check the metal plate in this (see this unsharp image just above the sprocket) from this thread.

For preventing the next iteration. In Europe we have those nasty rodents that eat cables as well (Minks). I have 2 ultrasonic rodent Repellents in car and worked for the last 15y without issues. Once we got a rental from work and, bang within 3h the little one was already eating cables.

The car was basically cut in half. I think they should be happy nobody was riding in the rear seats. https://media.dumpert.nl/dmp/media/image/8/a/5/8a5078af-c981-567d-15fe-12057f0e4864/image.jpg

I can imagine a couple of things: Something on one of the seats setting seatbelt warning for a moment. Driver awareness, i know Subaru can have a driver awareness system/camera that does track the pupils of the driver and see if that is on the road in front or on something else during a sufficient time period (i know this because the company where i worked sold this system to subaru). You are not holding the steering wheel sufficient enough (again, there is a sensor that monitors if the driver holds the steering wheel with sufficient pressure/squeeze, also this sensor comes from my former work). a feature or a bug Good luck

The switch is a membrane type on the top of the block. It uses the block as a ground and 1-wire for the indicator in the dash. (the switch is somewhere under the alternator, next to the EJ25 logo cast. 25240KA040 could be the right one) - Check for leaks, and check oil level with the dipstick first! - Check if that wire/connector is connected. Or pull it off and ground it with a piece of electric wire. Start and see if the light goes off I have had these fail between 4 and 12 y of car age, the are simple to replace.

How are the brake line? The flexible parts at the strut. Cracks inside there can prevent the backflow of brake-fluid. Or the slide pin are not moving freely.

With that topic title I was going to suggest to take the car to a drive-inn theatre and watch 'The exorcism' . Tail lights are prone for remaining moist, also check the rubber grommets on the housing.

Aluminum or aluminium is cast using sand/glue casts. Due to the rapid change of temperatures there minor cracks at the liquid aluminum and sand interface. Once the sand or mold is stripped away you see these little burs. Some brands polish them away, others leave them. You can see on machined parts (32222 written photo) there are no cracks in the aluminum where the top is machined off. There are also other marks on the engine that shows how often the master cast is used, usually a grid with dots. Manufacturers have learned how many times a master can used. Also during the master sand mold pressing step some sand from the previous mold preparation can stick onto the master, this leaving some 'extra' sand for the next mold. All these steps result in these small cosmetic lines. If you are willing to spend loads of time you can remove them. (see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJkwUVSpNPw)

Generally in Europe A/C only became standard around the 2000s to 2010s on most cars!!!! We have wiper heaters :D

I would not idle to long. When in the polar areas of Europe we had no issues at -25c. Jus start car, put kids in and drive away slowly. Don't leave it idling for long time at cold, the oil lubrication is simply sub optimal. A block heater and oil pan heater are most ideal. I had a block heater that at least made the interior warm up quickly. Driving on ice and snowed roads, nice clunking sounds from the frozen suspension needing time to warm up too.

It is actually more interesting to crash test older cars. That then shows what the rust does to the structure. Here I think the SVX remains well stable, indeed there are quite some newer cars that would not be that good. Airbag remains stable, footwell probably collapsed. I think here the wide boxer engine might help a bit in absorbing the forces and spreading them out.

Not for the faint hearted, the swiss DTC group did a small overlap crash test with an SVX. On the good note, it seems that for a 90s car it does very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT5PD1stTO0 (DTC does all kinds of weird crash tests at speed with retired cars)

The e-boxer is available in Netherlands. I think it is not different from the crosstrek hybrid. And I have seen some people mounting an electric motor instead of the engine.

Unfortunately every one makes mistakes. But as long they are recognised and solved instead of made bigger it should be fine. But now, since the gearbox will be out, maybe have the HG also done as you could have the potential ej253 as well.