bheinen74

oh, it has the 4x140 to 4x100 hub adapter plate thing. cool, not many go that route, although not sure why not, plenty of wheels for those around, any honda Civic basically, preludes, some.

looks like we need to update the 4 lug wheel page with Bailey's

your needle/seat may be worn as well....time for rebuild *** you can get kit. you need your carb number

nice try Ben. No, silly. this soon to be sort of my version of 22B, its a 5spd from CA I could simply not find a non rusty acadia green one..so this one is it

my brothers 99 outback had sway problems. It was an auction car, and the forklift operator had bent all 4 lateral links badly when lifting and moving the car around. They are supposed to be straight. His car drives nice again after we replaced the lat links.

please state your tire Manufacturer and model of tread. I know the Michelin HydroEdge and the General Altimax SUCK here s what they look like. they are no good on ice at all. those tread designs, the outside is trying to push tire right, the inside push left, and then go to the opposite side of car, its same, and the side to side is fighting each other. Its a FAIL design of the tread for ice. No balance on that center rib can even it out.

sight glass should be in the middle i believe, I will have to look that up to make sure. that means float is set wrong. it is ajusted by slight bend of the float holder rods, maybe your float is bad, when it gets bad, it absorbs gas/water and it is heavy so it wont float, and that will mess it up.

if your choices are LS1 and Sti, then the best choice to do for sure is going LS1

could be a vacuum line disconnected, theres about 15 to 20 on these. could need a carb rebuld, debris, clogged jets etc, need to soak them clean. Could be float level incorrect could be choke not coming off when warmed could be etc, etc etc. On my CA spec BRAT, I rebuilt the carb, and it was better for a while, then when it started runnning crap again, I decided due to all the California emissions garbage, the only real solution was to get a Weber. I got my Weber used from Jerry DeMoss, and all said and done, total cost with new manifold gaskets, new coolant lines, new vacuum lines for the valve cover breathers, its more like 350 that was with used carb. If you have a non-CA spec carb, then i say rebuild it. When I compare my Weberized BRAT to the 83 GL wagon I had with normal non CA carb, they both are about the same. But a CA spec carb will never give anything good even when rebuild, not like a regular carb. that emissions stuff is GARBAGE after it gets old. So only you can decide, and you being on the NW, maybe yours has a CA spec emssions carb, never know until you dig around to find out.

had the gas adjusts on the rescue wagon in the rears (83 GL wagon) and they were AWESOME. Even when i hauled a ej22t longblock back there on a 300 mile trip from KC, it was just awesome. much better then the stock comparison on my BRAT. I would recommend them.

thats good info. thanks for the truth. will save someone alot of money. so far, best answer for bigger tires is cut the piss out of fenders to fit big tires. also, staying on topic sort of, anyone who lifts a 1982-1987 BRAT with a 4" lift can only fit 3.5 inche bigger diameter tires than stock without cutting. For more clearance, just fit 25.5 inch tires without lift, you get same results that a 4" lift gives you of 27.5" tires vs 23.5 sotck tires. so. I love these types of threds. if you want bigger tires or lift, then get 1.75 inch taller tires and trim to clear, or get a 4" lift and get 3.5 inch taller tires.....there. sorry to hijack ... was a ruf day

love that bumper, wonder who made it.

why would someone else cover the 750? The warranty has a limit, and they are paying for it. You don't get 2 warranties usually, only one. This proves why warranties has limits. -even with the Bestest of Warranties, which costed money in the first beginning, you are still out 750 which the warranty denies. I dont think there is much benefit, the cost of the warranty when purchase car, whaat (1500?) and now another 750, well that 2250 could have been put in a rainy day fund, and you still could have done this...no difference

thread build soon, I do so hope. details to follow, but I am working on the destination body for the EJ22T.

yeah probably, but tire wear may increase some with DD chores.

cool. would it be possible, for sheetmetal front clip from a XT6 to be fitted to a wagon chassis up front, hood, fenders, bumper, lights. Is that doable? If so, then I think we have a winner.

smart for 2 get 50mph? DOES NOT get 50mpg it is: The smart fortwo is designed to achieve 33 city/41 highway mpg according to 2009 Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) standards, which involves measuring mpg while taking into account real-life driving conditions such as start/stop city traffic, air-conditioning, heating etc. According to information obtained on fueleconomy.gov, the smart fortwo is the most fuel-efficient non-hybrid gasoline-powered vehicle in the USA today. The gas tank of the smart fortwo is 8.7 gallons. Fuel economy estimates were derived in accordance with EPA vehicle testing procedures for model year 2009 as specified in 40 C.***.R. pts. 86 and 600 (2007). These estimates are intended for comparison between other vehicles within the same class. Individual drivers’ actual mileage will vary depending on how they drive and maintain their vehicles. found at http://www.smartusa.com/smart-car-faq.aspx just needed to correct what is posted above. It is a Unsmartfor2 heck a civic gets better mileage, AND it can haul 4 people. The smart is very dumb, unless you can argue better. all that great not so great mileage while it gets terrific performance of The maximum speed is 90 mph, with a 0-60-mph time of 14.1 seconds. A five-speed automanual transmission drives the Fortwo's rear wheels and is shifted without a clutch pedal via a simple console-mounted stick (and column-mounted paddles on Passion models), and there is a fully automatic mode as well. With its 8.7-gallon tank, the Fortwo will return 33 mpg city, 41 mpg highway and 36 mpg combined. the numbers really SUCK for a car weighing only 1800. Now, someone who is SMARt can figure out that.

The seals go bad if they sit unrun for periods of time, and the coolant and exhaust gases degrade the apex seals over time if not primed by running. A rotary needs run wide open also to condition the apex seals.

lifts need to be done using combo of blocks for the crossmemembers and longer struts, or blocks, or you just are eating axles like candy.

regular toast and burned toast.

nascar 100mph tape over the hood to fender joint gap, same for headlight gap to hood, and to side lights. smooth things up.

usually any fsm manual for year 1985+ is meaning the ea82 engine series. So, for the BRAT (EA81 engine) you need 1984 and pre fsm. 1982-1984 would be the years to shoot for for a gen2 BRAT (1982-1987 Brat) will not be covered in most 1985+ fsm. since the BRAT was carry over.

you can buy my 06 but its only got the 2.5 not the H6. 91,500 miles. i am the second owner. thats all, the info is on my other thread.

nice. I hope no one tries to get them when its parked.

and the tires look to be good for a few more miles:lol: