johnceggleston

http://www.genuinesubaruparts.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com http://www.subaruparts4you.com typically there are 2, one before the cat and one after. the front one, before the cat needs to be OEM, get it online . the rear one after the cat can come from any parts store. they are a little larger than a spark plug and thread into a fitting welded into the exhaust pipe with 3 or 4 wires (one connector) running to them.

my guess is that the mounting bolt is either in front of or behind the sensor. if the mounting bolt is to the left or right of the sensor , then there will have to be a left and right. if the mountig bolt were above or below the sensor, then they could be interchangeable.

noise diagnosis 101 http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

when you take the scanner in for it's check up, take the subaru as well. he should be able to scan your car and that will tell you if is the car or the tool.

you are describing something that i've never heard of. i thought a picture might help. i've never seen a subaru differential with 2 fluids in it. i would double check that it came off a 94 subaru legacy. and if it does not look like a subaru diff, i'd take it back before i went to all the trouble of installing it. they may have made a mistake.

the duty b solenoid is inside the trans and generally is not considered to be user friendly. but more experienced 'users' may have a different opinion. your gas mileage will suffer but i don't think driving it will be harmful. you didn't say how many miles are on the car. my guess, is you are looking at a used trans. some one has posted a link to some FSM downloads which include several pages of diagrams for the auto trans. probably not your year, but good generic info just the same. try searching FSM trans*. i found this: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/lee/18575.pdf look at item #6 on page 21 of 27. this is for a SVX but still good info.

did you put these pads on or were they on there when you got the car? maybe the previous owner replaced just one side to save labor. how long have you had the car? it does sound like a stuck/frozen caliper. i had that once on a 95 legacy. only the driver side engaged when appling the brakes. the shop banged it loose cleaned it up, replaced the pads , turned the rotor and put it back together. worked great. i also just replaced the pads on only one side (i know this is not good) because the slide pins were all gummed up and one of the 2 pads on the right rear was worn out. i replaced just those 2 pads, i had some usable ones from another change, cleaned and lubed the slide pins. i'll replace all rear pads as soon as i'm sure i've corrected the problem. no sense wearing out new pads.

what car did it come out of? manual or a/t? can you post a picture of the differential?

correct. incorrect.

when removing the rear diff, does the 'front member' have to come out?

NO!! we are talking about 2 different things here. wheels and tires. outback and GT wheels will fit on a reg legacy. but the STOCK outback tire will not. you have to buy a smaller tier and put it on the outback wheel in order for it to fit. stock outback tire are 205/70/15 . to put outback wheels on a regular legacy you need smaller tires, 205/60/15, or taller struts and stock tires. GT wheels are bigger than outback wheels, but the stock tire diameter is smaller. stock GT tires and wheels will fit on a reg legacy without any changes.

the wheel is only one dimension of tire size. the GT 205/55/16 is a bigger wheel but smaller tire (24.9" diameter) than the outback 205/70/15 (26.3" diameter). the gt tire (and wheel for that matter) will fit on a legacy L with out any other changes. the GT is a sporty legacy. there probably are some minor differences (sway bar?) but struts are not one of them. i don't know about front brake calipers. the outback wheel with 205/60/15 tires will also fit on the legacy without any other changes. this tire is smaller than the standard outback but the same size as the legacy tire. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

don't forget to check www.car-part.com. sort your search by distance.

if you want it to really look like an SUS , get some outback 15" wheels and put on some 205/60/15 tires. then it will look just like the pic above just a little shorter.

you all are a little over my head here, but for what it's worth, the 3.9 diff has a 10 tooth pinion and a 39 tooth ring gear. i think most if not all of the 2.2L 5 speeds had the 3.9 final drive. the 2.5L 5 speed (96-99) has a 4.11 final drive, 9 tooth pinion and 37 tooth ring gear. but what i think you are talking about is swapping the gears , etc. inside the ring gear housing. way beyond mortal men.

the trans number will tell you. (96 - 99) TZ102Z2xxx is an auto trans on a 2.5L engine and has the 4.44 final drive. (outbacks, GTs and LSi.) TZ102Zxxxx is an auto trans on a 2.2L engine and has the 4.11 final drive. (legacy L, LS, and brighton.) if the 2.5L 99 auto trans has a different part number then it's phase II and all bets are off. (but it could be 4.44, i just don't know. ) 2000 - 01 the auto trans for the legacy 2.2L and the impreza 2.2L had the same part number. my guess is that they are 4.11. just a guess. the 97 GT has 16 inch wheels but smaller tires 205/55/16 than the outback 205/70/15. the circumfrence of the GT tire (78.2 inches) is about the same as the legacy 195/70/14 (77.7 inches). it would need taller struts to have bigger tires. the circumference of the outback 205/70/15 is larger (82.6 inches). and of course diameter is relative to the circumference.

are you looking for the front diff part number or the "center diff" , which in an auto trans is the tranfer clutch unit?? i've never seen a part number for the front diff, but i do know that 95 - 99 2.2L autos all used a 4.11 front diff. and with the possible exception of the 99 (did they go to 8 bolts on the ej22 as well as the ej25?) they are all interchangeable. for that matter, my guess is that you can swap the ej25 front diff with the ej22 front diff without any problems, as long as you get the matching rear diff. both differentials, the 22 and the 25 have a 9 tooth pinion coming out of the trans. the only apparent difference is the ring gear, ej22= 37teeth, ej25 = 40 teeth.. i recently did the math on the 4.11 final drive with the legacy 195/70/14 tires and the 4.44 final drive with the outback 205/70/15 tires and they are the same. the pinion gear 'revolutions per mile' are almost exactly the same. this is why there is not a huge fuel consumption change between the 2 final drives.the transmissions are turning the same number of times for each mile. the only difference is the engine displacement.

so is the 97 LSi 2.5L, but there won't be very many of them. in 2001, i think, they did away with the 2.2L engine in the legacy series, maybe in the impreza as well, i don't know, i'm not an impreza guy. prior to that all the 2.5L engines with auto trans had the 4.44 rear end. it wouldn't surprise me to learn that all auto trans since 2001 also have the 4.44 rear end. have you looked at www.car-part.com yet? sort your search by distance. good luck

this is fairly typical for these fuel gauges. i have 2 that read empty after 200 miles, but when i fill them up they onlt take around 8 - 10 gals. try some techron fuel additive.

are you basing your conclusion of 'running crappy' on the movement of the gas gauge or on your MPG from gallons pruchased and miles driven. if you are using just the gauge, these guages are known for reading wrong (low). it could be mis leading you. if on the other hand you are actually dividing miles driven by gallons purchsed, it may take a a little while to show your actual mileage. how many miles are you driving it on your test drives, 5 - 10 or 100 - 150?? more miles will give you a better idea of what is actually happening.

how do you roll down the power window of a junker unless you haul in a battery?

read this on diagnosing piston slap. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

i heard some one on tv say, the price of gasoline in this country will always be just below the the price that makes it economical to switch. in other words why would opec or the gas companies raise the price of gas so much to send us a packing to the conversion websites??? probably not until the supply dwindles.

i just picked up a 97 GT wagon with 145k, bad head gaskets, replaced trans in 05 at 130k (1750$ trans 575$ labor). a couple of burns in the passenger seat, power antena does not work, a crappy paint job, and there is a hum in the intake which gets louder when i unlatch the air cleaner. no rust. for a replacement engine, 96 L wagon 2.2L with 125K miles (with y pipe) or 97 outback 2,5L with 115K, (the car has 115k, i think the engine was replaced, may be less maybe more) with no known history other than it runs fine does not overheat. unknown t- belt, unknown gaskets. my plan is to keep the car and let my wife drive it. so i'm leaning towards the 2.2. but if she changes her mind, and i have to sell it i'll regret losing it. i might put steel wheels on it, she cuts a tire side wall about every other year, 4 in 10 years. i'll still have to buy the tires but not the expensive wheels. maybe i'll make the swap after she ruins them. what to do.? i have found a reason for a more powerful final drive on a more powerful engine. it makes for a peppier, quicker car, i think. the 97 GT wagon has the 4.44 final drive like all 95 - 99 2.5L legacys. but the it has 16" wheels with 205/55/16 tires. the circumfrence of these tires is within a 1/2 inch of the 195/70/14 on a legacy L with 2.2L engine. the 2.2L cars with auto trans all have the 4.11 final drive with 14" wheels. when they started offering the 2.5L engine, they went with the 4.44 final drive (more power). in the outbacks they used larger tires (less power). the GT has the 4.44 final drive, (more power), with the smaller tires. what tires and wheels are on the 97 LSi with the 2.5L engine.? it has to be something close to the 195/70/14 since only the outback has taller struts for more wheel clearence. i'd like to see a 2.5L engine with the 4.11 final drive, would it be sluggish, would it go faster, or would you even notice? wohoo, i got a new car.:banana:

i'm a bad member, i didn't read the entire thread, so if this is a repeat just skip it. didn't some one post a while back that the starter contacts were also used in a toyota or nissan and you could get them for 12$ at the auto parts store? i think i have a set. i'll look.