johnceggleston

check the oil level, low oil will cause a tick in the ej22. but it's probably something else.

just out of couriosity, which engine and what's the trans part number? 2.5 and TZ102Z2ACA ?

i'm not sure this is true, but someone told me there was a color code on the back of the plastic trim in a car which you can match to paint/dye color. maybe it's obvious when buying but i don't know

did you see this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=649977&postcount=1

when i swapped out my front axle recently, i discovered that the last guy put anti sieze on the splines and threads, thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

the circuit boards for the 95 leg sedan and the 96 leg wagon seem to be the same with one exception, the label on the main chip is different. i thinlk this indicates different programming. (the chip is the same but the printed lable is different.) the 96 wagon TCU was not a good match for the 96 trans in the 95 sedan body. it shifted later, reved higher and wanted to stay in 3RD. i figured this was due to the wagon being heavier than the sedan, any thoughts? i think the the mechanics of most of the trans are pretty much the same, but the programming in the TCU is for the specific model size, weight and driving characteristics, such as GT sedan vs outback wagon. i don't know if there is a physical difference between FWD and AWD TCU's, but the AWD TCU should be looking for the rear speed sensor.

they actually made some outbacks w/ 2.2L engines in 96. all outbacks were 2.2L in 95. but the 95 had the legacy trans and the 96 had the outback trans, different final drive ratio.

the TZ102Z2AAA is from a 96 2.5L legacy, LSi (or maybe GT, the 97 GT ended in CA not AA but i can't find any record of a CA trans in 96.) and it has the final drive ratio of 4.44. the last AA means legacy. the TZ102Z2ABA is from a 96 outback, it could be 2.5 or 2.2, they used the same trans for both that year, it too has the final drive ratio of 4.44. the last BA means outback. (they also used the BA on some impreza outback trans.) the 2 after the second Z indicates 2.5L which means 4.44 final drive. (one exception: the 96 outback w/ 2.2 used the 2.5L trans as i just mentioned and it also had the 4.44 final drive.) the last 2 charactures (after the "-") in the trans part number mean nothing. the last 2 charactures before the "-" indicate the model of car, legacy, outback, GT or LSi. these do not limit the interchangability of the trans. the "2" after the second Z indicate the 2.5L engine which dictates the final drive ratio of 4.44. this does limit the interchange of the trans. (4.44 vs 4.11) if the characture after the second z is a letter then the engine is a 2.2L and the final drive is 4.11. the 3RD to last characture, just before the BA or AA, indicates the version of the trans, A came before B and C came after. there may be slight differences in these trans models, but there seems to be no difference in the 96 leg wagon trans (...ZABAA) that i put in a 95 leg sedan (...ZAAAA). i think thses simply indicate different production runs or years. this only applys to 95 - 99 phase I automatic transmissions. hope this helps.

good question. my son's doing this away at college. i'll have to ask. but does this mean the connectors aren't there and it will not give the codes?

my 95 leg sedan has a cel on, i sent him to autozone and you all know what they said, "it's OBDI we can't read it." so i found these post on reading the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=549871&postcount=12 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=531744&postcount=6 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=532548&postcount=19 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWPreOBDAug05.pdf correct me if i'm wrong: black connectors under the dash will give me the codes in the memory. green connectors will give me the current operating trouble codes. both will clear the memory. thanks, john

yeah, most of my loud bangs have all been preceded by screeching brakes and cursing.

i'm talking to the owner of a 92 leg wagon that "needs a engine". when i asked what happened she responded with: "All I know is that they changed the oil in the car and my son's friends were revenning the engine to make sure oil was in the motor or something and decided to floor it and there was a loud bang." before i got her response i was kind of hoping it was the timing belt, but it doesn't sound like it. not much to go on but, any ideas? thanks, john

you can get the duty c and the 2 gaskets online for less than $80.00 shipped. that does add to the cost of the trans, but the labor to do it later is close to 300$. a 70 trans probably would run for a long time with out replacement but i have sworn never to install a used trans with out replacing the duty c. been burned once allready. i took my 200k donor extention housing apart this weekend and ordered the parts. mine looked exactly like the one in the pics above. i'll be interested to hear if your new one looks any better. apparently the hub with the notches worn into it is securly attached to the drive gear behind it (i've read welded but i'm not sure). otherwise you coul;d replace it as well. but that piece is on the trans not the rear housing so if you are swapping your whole trans you'll get the new used one. let us know how it goes.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#90-99maintenance

I REPEAT, there's no speed limit to the mechanical operation of the drive train with the FWD fuse in.

typically, the 3.9 final drive was in the 2.2L manual transmissions in the 1990's. the 2.5L manual outback & gt had a 4.11.

there's no speed limit to the mechanical operation of the drive train with the FWD fuse in. but it is now a front wheel drive car and it will handle differently. so you might slow down until you get the feel of it.

all 2.2L engines with automatics have the 4.11:1 final drive ratio, except the 96 2.2L outback. all 2.5L engines with auytomatics have the 4.44:1 final drive ratio. now i'm not a automotive engineer, but i think the lower the number the more efficient/ higher the gearing, the higher the number the more powerful / lower the gearing. changing trans will improve your torque/power but not your mileage. larger tires / wheels tend to improve mileage, fewer rotations per mile, i don't know what too large would do. how does a 28.3" tire compare to the stock tire on an 97 outback, 205/75/15? it is plug and play, the trans will bolt in, plug in, and run just fine. don't change the TCU. these are programmed for the size and weight of the car, how it is supposed to run / shift (and the engine, little bit i think, but not much, you can put a 2.2L engine in a 2.5L outback and it runs just fine). example, if you put the TCU from an leg wagon in to a leg sedan it will shift later and stay in 3RD more, i think. starting w/ 1999MY the outback auto trans were phase II (legacy 2.2L may have started in 98) and had the external filter . the wiring harness changed, and more speed sensors were added, 2 more i think. so stay with the phase I trans 96 - 98. any trans part number starting with TZ102Z2... will have the 4:44 final drive and will plug in and run. the 2nd '2' after the 2nd 'Z' indicates 2.5L engine. all you need is the trans and the rear end. but brfore you put any money into this i would compare the tire sizes. if the new are substantially larger than the old i'm not sure the making the final drive change will help. the difference between 4.11 and 4.44 is only about 8%. if your tires and 25% larger then .....? it might be cheaper to get smaller tires.

here are a few. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=646635&postcount=4 if you are using mozilla firefox you can look here: www.crazedlist.org it's a great search engine but it won't deliver you to the ads, just the city sites, if you use explorer. or ebay.

i don't know any thing abouit these cars except they are for sale in north carolina. good luck ps: 2.5L may have head gasket issues (outbacks, gt); 2.2L does not (legacy) http://asheville.craigslist.org/car/403313978.html http://asheville.craigslist.org/car/400614828.html http://asheville.craigslist.org/car/396636777.html i lke this one. 1.5 - 2k wouyld be a good price maybe. [/url] http://asheville.craigslist.org/car/395267575.html http://wilmington.craigslist.org/car/371571135.html http://raleigh.craigslist.org/car/404113163.html http://raleigh.craigslist.org/car/403425703.html http://raleigh.craigslist.org/car/402565899.html http://boone.craigslist.org/car/398135006.html http://boone.craigslist.org/car/374595994.html http://charlotte.craigslist.org/car/395992667.html http://charlotte.craigslist.org/car/394187167.html

this sounds high to me, but then my wallet is usually pretty thin. subarus will run a long time if you take care of them. when looking at 96 - 99 outbacks you need to check if the head gaskets have been replaced. head gasket failure happens in 15 - 20% (estimated) of these cars. any 2.5L subaru engine 96 - 99. if the gaskets are new, ok if not then there may be a repair in the cars future. but at 155k miles, either it's been done or it's probably not going to happen because of the gasket design. but who knows. the other thing to look for is torque bind. drive the car in tight circles at slow seeps, if it jumps or shutters or drives funny, that's torque bind. (it feels like drving a 4WD truck with the front hubs locked.) it's repairable but could be as much as 800 - 1200$. some outbacks sell at high prices, some for a song. unless you need wheels in a hurry, take some time to shop around. these are great cars, i've driven over 200k miles in subarus (all 3 used with over 90k miles when i bought them) in the last 9 years and other than maintenance, i've had to but a used trans, and repaired torque bind twice. this is not unusual, lots of similar stories on this site. welcome to the board and good hunting.

is that a 100$ item or a 400$ item? i've never seen one priced.

this retainer holds the tapered bearing the supports the differential gears. do not remove it unless you know what you are doing. if you do remove it, mark it's location before you start, count the number of rotations it takes to remove the retainer and reinstall it the EXACT same way. failure to do so will destroy your differential. why do you want to remove it ? it doesn't look to be leaking very much. some one used a very large socket and cut slots in the edge to match the ribs in the retainer .

is that the best (least worst) solution out of all of your bad possibilities, or is this an acceptable solution long term. i assume this solution requires 2 matcing tires on one sdie and 2 matching tires on the other. so over the long haul the rotations will equal out.

i take it the hub with the grooves worn in it is not easiliy replaceable. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5171&d=1187139402