johnceggleston

according to www.car-part.com a 97 - 98 impreza will work or a 98 forester. i'm syrprised by the 2.2 to 2.5 leap. and why wouldn't a 2.5 L forester fit a 98 outback. try searching for the part a autozone and see if they list it for other years. or search both years and see if the part numbers are the same. 95 legacy altenator fits 95 - 99 legacy / outback, 2.2L and 2.5L. it looks like the legacy altenator is heavyier and 10 more amps, no other difference.

i'm not sure i understand the break. the new sensor should have the tab with it. (hangs out the bottom of the sensor and kind of flops around.) this slides into the housing and fits into a slot. if a new sensor does not have the tab, a used one will. i think i have a picture, if i can find it i'll post it when i get home. i also read the post about being able to remove the tab, but i was reluctant to test it, so i left it alone.

now that will work, but it needs to be steam driven.

i spent 20 in the construction industry. and back in 1975 all circular saws drew 80% of 15 amps (12.0 amps). that was / is the safety cutoff of a 15 amp house circuit breaker. the breakers had a 80 % max cutoff and wiring had a 133% max (20 amp). so the breaker popped before the wire failed. maybe a rechargeable saw could be used on an inverter, but a standard circular saw uses 1400 watts. no big motors, no heaters, no toasters. although someone makes a small gas powerewd blender for tailgating at your favorite football game.

i think i have it now. the clutch plates are not so much like a dinner plate with a hole in the middle as much as they are like a wide ring. they ride out side of one hub(?) and in side the drum. i think i have it now, thanks for your help.

i doubt this is your problem but...double check the trans part number lable on the bell housing at the starter. (TZ102Z....) make sure it matches the id tag on the driver side shock tower. i swapped a 96 leg wagon A/T & TCU into a 95 leg sedan and it shifted funny. i put the original 95 TCU back in (with the 96 trans) and all is well.

obviously something is causing this wear, but i thought the clutch plates were inside of this hub. (the wear marks look like they could be made by stacked plates, but theres no way that can be true.) so the wear must come from this hubs mating with the other hub.?.? again, i have no clue. mine was intermittent at first, somethimes the FWD fuse would relieve the problem and sometimes not. my son claimed the FWD light would go out when he was "really pushing it". make sense to me.

how about a picture ? or better description.

i've studied this pretty throughly and i can't give you an absolute answer to that question. i know the same duty c solenoid is used in most if not all years. the big question is wheather the clutch plates/parts are all interchangeable. it is my opinion that they are, but i have no hard evidence of this. (i also think that a legacy rear extention housing is identical to the outback.) if you do look for another rear housing to replace your, i would suggest staying very close to your year, 95 - 98. the auto trans were changed in 99, and i'm not sure i'd go any earlier than 95. i don't know about the 'grooves' or smoothing them out. frankly i was looking at the pictures posted above and was trying to imagine how the power was transfered from the large 'corregated' hub in the first picture to the output shaft. i know there are clutch plates involved, and i know clutch plates grab and release to convey power, but that's about it. i can't even make a guess. i haven't seen any part numbers for clutch plates yet, i don't think. the parts listed above are duty c and gaskets. housing gasket, exhaust gasket (head to y-pipe) and valve assembly gasket (duty c). i swapped a rear housing out of a bad 97 OBW trans into a good 97 OBW trans with torque bind. i knew the rear of the bad trans was good, because i was driving it when the trans failed. i didn't see a lot of wear on the hubs as in the pics above but it was a long time ago and i wasn't looking for it. (both trans were around 100k). i then sold the rear housing with the bad duty c to a member, he installed it with the new duty c and drove away. if i had to guess, and this is just a guess, the marks on the hub pics above are caused by either very high mileage or driving with a failed duty c, torque bind. this puts undue wear on the system. try not to drive with torque bind, pull the rear drive shaft if you have to drive it. this may save your clutch parts.?.? if you put in the FWD fuse and the binding stops, then it's not the duty c. (to be FWD only the duty c has to work.) if the fuse is in and you still have binding ans blinking AT TEMP light at start up, then the duty c solenoid is bad. (maybe more but maybe not) hope this helps, john

my inverter - 400w - has an alarm built in which sounds when i pull more juice than it can put out. occasionally the alarm will sound, but i've never had a problem with the lighter fuse. when i bought it i was worried about the wiring in the car because the inverter came with battery clips and heavy duty wires. have you seen the wires that feed the lighter? they are tiny. W = V x A; 400 Watts = 12 Volts x 33.3 Amps ( i think mine is 400 surge watts, not 400 continuous watts.) what's the fuse on the lighter. my old laptop worked fine at idle, my new one needs the car running a little faster. i read some great advice, here i think, regarding the use of an inverter for lights in your home when the power fails, use the new low wattage flouresent bulbs, you light many more bulbs / rooms than with incandescent.

maybe has something to do with neutral cutout switch or something similar that's gone bad. try starting it in neutral with your foot on the brake.

pappy, are you still out there? i was wondering what happen with your trans swap?

and one of the worst things you can do is to show how much you want an item. :-\

if you send the rain up to roanoke , i'll come down and do it for you. i came back from vacation yesterday and my yard is dead. brown. toast. i'm not much of a yard guy, but i mean dead.

there are 3 parts that make up the ignition switch. swapping the 'key way' is very simple, if you have a key and can get it to turn. the mechanical locking part that the keyway slides into is more difficult to swap and not necessary. the actual ignition (electrical) switch is the third part of the system. i would suggest removing your existing key way, and taking it to a lock smith. he can re-key it, replace the worn pins to match your original door locks and make a matching key that will work your doors as well. to remove the 'key way' you remove 3 screws on the bottom of the pastic housing around the steering column and ignition. GENTLY remove the top and bottom halves and set them aside. (the tilt control lever is tricky) put the key in the ignition and turn it a little until it unlocks the steering. on one side of the ignition cylinder housing there is a pin about 3/16" wide which recesses into the ignition cylinder housnig. if you press this in while pulling out on the key (while it is still turned some) the key way will slide out of the ignition. pretty slick. EDIT: don't forget to check the battery kil switch after you reinstall the plastic housing. there is a pretty large plug thing on the bottom of the plastic housing, and if you knew what you were doing and had a long ice pick thing with a bend on the end, i think you could remove the key way without removing the plastic housing. but i have to see what i'm doing.

i found with the front wheel off the ground and the trans in neutral (hand brake on and rear wheels blocked) you can rotate the axle to find a position that will work, from underneath. i think on the passenger side you can drive the pin out from above, but i've always done it fron below. a longer punch may help. use a 3/16" punch, nothing fatter. note which side of the axle you are driving out of. one side has a dimple, you insert from that side, i drive it back out the reverse direction. ie: never going all the way through. i don't know if this is correct.

we're smart enough to drive subarus!!

suggestion regarding the rear extention housing ans the clutch / duty c r&r. beg borrow or steal a rear extention housing from another AWD trans. put in a new duty c and check the clutch hub etc. replace or repair as needed, then swap it onto yoiur trans. this will reduce your down time. the duty c can be intermittent. and you may not have any problems with the clutch at all, but you won't know until you pull it. i would think tyhere are lots oif bad trans with good rear extention housings. good luck,

the lower pin actually a bolt with a 14mm head. the upper pin threads into the caliper mounting bracket, it has 2 flat spots so you can put a wrench on it, and the upper rubber boots on t he caliper slide onto it.

you are a very motivated subaru owner. i think i would have given up by now. i assume you have tried every thinbg else suggested in the other thread. my guess would be rear drive shaft. i removed and installed mine a couple of times trying to replace a rear pinion seal (which i never accomplised) and after i put it back together i had a vibration. i suspect that i levered on the u-joint while removing the mounting bolts and boogered it. but unlike your problem, mine went away when i put in the FWD fuse. i recently removed a front differential from a 97 OBW bad trans. i bought a 'good' used 96 leg GT trans with a busted bell housing for cheap, 75$, i need the rear extention housing. removing the front diff when the trans is out is very easy, i assume re-installing one is also easy. i now hope to take 2 and make one. so keep this in mind. there have to be lots of "bad" trans sitting around with good front differentials. you might ask. a little long winded to say, if you can't fix it in the car, try swapping in a good front diff while out of the car. should be cheaper than a whole trans. for 95 - 99 legacy auto trans there are only 2 diffs to pick from, 4.11 in 2.2L cars (except 96 2.2L outback) that have 37 ring gear/9 pinion and 4.44 in 2.5L cars that have 40 ring gear/9 pinion. good luck.

if the studs as stuck as as suggested this will probably not work, but since i don't weld... i'd try re-tapping the threads on the stud, put on some nuts and then try to remove. they don't even have to be metric. of course the double nuts might just strip the threads again and you have to weld anyway, but this would be my first try.

you guys must be new. welcome to the party. :banana:

yep, that's a half virgin!!!

plus o9ne for what he said. if you are just replacing the pads you are trying to remove the wrong bolts. to replace the pads you only have to remove one bolt, 14mm it attaches the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. the caliper mounting bracket uses the 17mm bolts to attache it to the hub. you remove the lower bolt, the other one doesn't have a hex head, you actually don't have to remove it, just back it out enough so you can swing the caliper up out of the way. once it's out of the way removing the pads is a snap. don't forget to compress the caliper piston before you swing it up out of the way. i'd relube the bolt before you reattach it. it acts as a slide pin. i just replaced rear pads on my 97 OBW because the caliper would not slide on the bolt, all gunked up. wore one pad down to the metal other 3 were still good. good luck.

i think this is a stud, not a bolt, no head. but you're point may be the same.