Quidam

Ah, I see. Yea, I've been reading about a lot of fast Subarus with those cams. Doug

Did you know about these guys? http://www.kelford.co.nz/regrinds

Hey there, Here's my '87, I went to Chatanooga and picked it up. It's real clean being from that part of the country. No leaks, drips, smoke etc. sounds good. Almost like it was someones maintained driver that died or something. How's the tires? Rot happens where they meet the dirt, if it sat on dirt. I'd be concerned about it running lean with dirty injectors, overheat, boom. Take it easy on the old girl huh? If you boost it right off too much it might kill it. It's that lean out on the fuel I'm thinking of. Keep posting, we'll be here. Doug

I bought 10 silver dollars when they were $9.00 ea. I gave most of them away over the years as presents. Two years ago I made the last one into a ring which I sometimes wear. I got the idea from a friend and he showed me how to do it. I gave a silver quarter to him a while back, he makes rings out of them too and IIRC he made his and his wifes wedding rings out of some. I have one silver dime on hand now tho, that's it. Doug

I haven't done this but if I did I'd triangulate the bar into the firewall as I know that would really stiffen things up. Just my .02, hey, let us know what you come up with and what you decide. Doug

Hey, Under your circomstances, I'd keep the original hood because all aftermarket Subaru panels I've seen just arent the same quality. From what I've seen, they will even rust quickly. Less expensive, for a good reason. Doug

Hi Steve, I haven't touched it in the last couple of weeks but I'll update soon. Life is what happens while I'm making other plans sometimes. Doug

Hi, You can disregard what I wrote because it doesn't make sense now. Sorry. Doug

Hi Steve, Sounds like you found the problem. If you have a point and shoot temp gun you should see a nominal 20* temperature drop from that upper hose and the lower hose. Sounds like the radiator core is clogged. Doug

Yea, what he said. The CPU has to have a certain amount of self adjustment built in to compensate for when the motor gets old and tired or you drive it from sea level to say the top of Pikes Peak. That's probably in the neighborhood of 25% or so. One of the beauties of EFI. hth Doug

Hi, Here's what I have done and I can tell you it does make a noticable difference, without trying to get more power. Notice the sticker by the drivers door and the tire size it came with. Don't go much taller as that kills whatever "performance" you start with on any vehicle. Rip out the AC, everything under the hood including the fan attatched to the water pump leaving only the electric fan. Buy a battery for the non AC car as it's quite smaller with a definate weight difference. Don't haul around a lot of extra stuff in the car, it does make a difference. Do a compression test and if it's not up to spec it's useless trying to get more power out of any engine. Of course a full tune up, or simply making sure it's where it should be is pretty much standard procedure. hth Doug

Yea, I'm still plugging away at it and I stripped it all back down today to solvent clean the parts for another trial assembly. Ah, the cam carriers get an upgrade for sure. In recent memory, two cams have been reported on USMB as broken/snapped and there is a clue to be had there. I've removed just two bolts from them installed on the heads and that alone was enough to bind the cam up. They are under spring pressure afterall and are too light weight. I'm going to reinforce them two ways. I'm also taking steps to reinforce the crankcase. All that will consist of aircraft aluminum, dowel pins, block filler, and high temp epoxy. I've got new hardened, heavy duty flange bolts for the final assembly on the cam cases with 13 mm heads. They use up all available thread and are definately superior to the Genuine Subaru bolts. But I'll keep the inserts in mind of course, whatever it takes. However, I think I can straighten out the cam case situation with reinforcement, we'll see. Doug

Everything on earth goes somewhere and I'll have to figure out where this goes. As you can see, USMB is a hostile inviroment and not a good place to talk EA 82, I don't need the aggrevation. Doug

Oh yea, video/pics and timeslip, or it didn't happen. Plus, they speak volumes so I don't have to do a lot of talking:) Doug

Secondary turbo bolted to the engine. I'm going to do a 2" lift on the whole car, turbos will be raised and rotated. For the dragstrip, I'm going to run the 3 speed automatic box, shift kit, higher stall converter...and I'll spool the turbos with Nitrous. I bought an aftermarket ignition system for it, so this thread is over as I don't plan to retrofit the newer Genuine Subaru engine management. Oh, Ralph said I should turn it 8500 rpm, and I think that's right. But not without new connecting rods and that's A motor. Doug

Yea, good point, probably some WRX/STI stuff too. Doug

Hey Dave, I don't know about EJ valves but with N/A EA the exhaust are stainless and on the Turbo models, both valves are stainless. Worth a bit more than scrap aluminum to me. Get your magnet out, and if it's barely magnetic with a super magnet, it's probably 304 stainless. Doug hth

Hey, I think the 350 cfm adapted to a SPFI intake would be a great combo, I wouldn't use the smaller carb intakes though with that carb. Has externally adjustable center pivot float, sight glass, 30 cc accelerator pump...but it's a square bore carb and wouldn't get the fuel mileage that a spread bore carb will. And, that's a huge carb for 109 ci, needs supporting mods. Exhaust work, free flow air cleaner and such. 5 speed, and a bigger cam to go with it. Doug

Hummmmm, except the real Ultimate RX hasn't been built yet. Sincerely, Doug

""Y'all please don't get in a pissin' contest." " FYI, GD is blocked and I don't see a thing he writes. He knows why and it's peacfull since I put him on the Ignore list. Doug

Oh, I'm going to modify that yellow 1/4 inch socket driver to fit the Hitachi Jets. It fits through the access holes for the jets well and I'll grind/file/epoxy it to fit.

Ok, here it is. 28/32 Hitachi. It's not finished and won't be ran on and engine untill next year. Rejetted of course, power valve mods, primary and secondary venturi mods, and I'm going to install a manual choke. It has no choke in it now hence, the Race Hitachi name. I can swap the tops on and off as needed. It has mechanical secondary wired up in this picture. But theory don't mean squat if it doesn't work. I'm aware of other people's attempts at mechanical secondary on this carb and I'm positive I can make it work. Exactly how I'll know sometime in the future. How have you done mechanical secondary on this carb? Or how would you do it? It has a bread tie on it now:popcorn: Doug

"run a higher grade of fuel and see if it goes away" Could be heat shields tho, check to make sure. If it goes away with higher octane fuel it can be easily tuned to make it go away with the low octane stuff. Let us know huh? Doug

Ha, I'll post a pic of the "Race Hitachi" tomorrow. Yea, I got a line on a new cheap Weber too. Buyers market these days. FYI, these Hitachis came in 26/30, 28/32, 32/34, and 34/38. Post is worthless without pics:) Doug

Got any pics of that car and motor you'd want to post? I was looking at all the exhaust fittings and such I've aquired today. I plan 3 inch I.D. to the rear of the car, I've got the stainless exhaust tip from another project. The header I've been prepping pieces for and ordered the 2000* F primer for yesterday. I'll be painting that stuff flat black I believe. I looked around for a TWE header and I could still use one if it could be found. I've upgraded/replaced fasteners where needed and I decided today i'm going to modify the cam cases further.