hassey

slipspeedy You will have to check pkdavis profile and get e-mail i do not have it or maybe some one here will post it the cost could not tell you and won't even guess that will be between you and pk davis if he will sell pieces of a four inch lift You know if you changed your mind and are going with a 4" lift you may as well buy it complet from PK Davis hassey

Slipspeedy I'm unsure of the degree you will get with a 4 inch lift at that point you might see if you can purchise strut towers for a 4 inch lift from PK davis that part would be easier. the steering Knukle came from a 95 Legacy cause it double jointed at both end so when you cut it in half and weld the splice in it will turn smoothly with out binding. Bythesea I appresiate your input but my Brat is VERY ridged the way it was built theres 14 places that are needed for an ea81 lift. Be it a 4" lift or a 6" lift and with all blocks in place and welded together with 2x2 tubing you have a solid frame all the way around under the brat on all 4 sides and by using 28 bolts you get that much more strenght. instead of useing 14 5" long bolts on individual block that aren't conected now that would have the tendecy to rock I had this lift this way going on 8 to 9 yrs now and I have never thrown a lug broke weld or tweaked the frame. or have the Brat rock or move on the lift. Oh and I'll add one more input theres are atleast 2 board members that have coppied my design idea with absolutly no problems again thanks for your concern and input Hassey

Yes use 2x4 tubing in stead of 2x6 tubing keep in mind that the lifts being talked about here are for EA81's and most every thing is custom fit to your car. I could not tell you how to lift a EA82 Hassey

Adam All I used for a jig was the front end of a hatch mid door forward strip down to nothing but the 10 holes. In your offer to make thses 6" lifts Does that include all the welding of the blocks and all the linkage being extended? how do you plan on shipping the welded frame when done and what are you going to include? just curious and asking thats all. I was thinking about doing the same thing a long long time ago but knowing what is involed I would have to charge close to $1500.00 a lift plus shipping and there no one on this board would pay that, but that would have included the lift all welded together so it would have a rectragle frame all the bolts, the shifter linkage, the HI/LO linkage, the stering, the engine suport, the strut towers, the shock mounts, the hubs for 6 lugs the bow for the rear end. Hassey

You will need 3 ft of 2x6 tubing and about 20 ft of 2x2 tubing cut the 2x6 tubing into 14 pieces 2x2x6 theres 10 in the front (5 on each side) and 4 in the rear (2 on each side) I'm going to i'm going to be real general with the idea that you have some idea of what needs to be done you will need 14 nuts and bolts same size as the ones all ready in the raise the car up at least 2 ft lower tranny/engine enough to fit block in place use original bolts for the top and new nuts/bolts for bottom use 2x2 tubing and cut to fit between all the 2x2x6 blocks and weld them in place Yes even concet the front to the rear when done you will have a frame that concets all the block all the way around the car. a subframe sorta speak the rear bow, the shock mounts, the engine suport, the stering linkage the strut towers shifter linkage all need to be extended. With the shifter you will find new words that you did not know and maybe put a couple of dent in the car, or have to go and find that wrench you threw, I say this because I wanted mine to look oringinal on the in side so when you look inside you can't tell, but it can be done this won't be a week end job at best your looking at 3 weeks unless you have nothing but time on your hands then thats a different story Hassey

I had a carfax account about 4-5 mos. ago and mine was only good for 30 days and i'm speaking for my accout only but if i remember right the first vehical you run is free and that goes for every one. who does not have an accout It would take just a min to find out. http://Http://www.carfax.com Hassey

This post is to comical and about 25 post way to long thats al I'm going to say Hassey

I would like to be one of the first to thank you for all your time and efforts in putting together. The Colo meet this after noon I feel that it was a success and a good turn out. 'a job well done'. I enjoyed meeting you, along with other board members too. a big round of aplause Hassey

It's 7:30 am that means 8 hrs and counting till 3:30 pm TIC TIC TIC TIC Hassey

Mine failed too 1984 Brat but i got it to pass with flying colors go to checker, autozone, or like store and buy this stuff it's called GUARANTED TO PASS OR G2P both are writen on the box. The box is blue. Follow the instructions on the box exactly, they will double your money back if you do not pass, Ive talk to 6 people who used it and swear by it here in COLO the limit on the co is 55 and mine was down to 23 after using G2P I swear this stuff is awsome and works Hassey

Just make sure that all the hard ware that i mention above come with the tonnue cover your looking at exspeaily the rail below the rear window you will diffenantly need that the snaps you can pick up at an upolstery shop

A long time ago i spent something like 10.00 for Mothers mag and wheel cleaner 4 oz jar although that stuff works great, what i found out and just like subarujunkie said SOS Pads do every bit as good and a whole lot cheaper Hassey

Both of My 1984 Brats are titled as P/U and the plates read Truck so maybe each state is differant on how they classify the Brat but I highly dought it The Brats were Imported as Cars then sold as trucks Hassey

I payed $110.00 for mine brand new at the same time I bought mine 84 Brat brand new back in 1984 If you found one theres a rubber strip on the front edge of the tonnue that will run a long under the rear window and you should also get the track the the rubber will pinch into you will need to mount that just under the window there is also velcro that needs to be mounted on the sides on the in side of the bed oppiste of the BRAT logo the snaps go with the exsisting screws in the crome trim and new ones will be mounted in between them theres also a suport rod that runs from side to side above the wheel well and below the crome strip on the inside of the bed this prevents saging does that help Hassey

last time i used http://www.carfax.com the first search was free then it's only 24.95 for a month for unlimited searches But it's a 1988 GL10 wagon 1.8L L4 Turbo 4door and there are 5 records aganist it, could be good or bad such as accidents or mean nothing such as tranfer of owner ship, emisions pass or fail like i said the first search use to be free Hassey

52 views and only 3 people confirmed are coming???? Hassey

Boz You will have to take two lugs out of your hub the ones that are diagaionl from each other (/) and bolt it to your rim. At that point you can deside two drill two holes in to the rim so you can use four lugs on a six lug rim (Never understood that concept) Or drill 4 holes in the hub and have a 6 lug hub and a 6 lug rim you will need 8 addtional lugs to do the job Hassey

ME Hassey

I'll be there could not make last time either Hassey

Ok everyone sit back and listen to Qboy tell us and me why a 6" solid sub frame body lift can't keep up with a 4" block lift and why the 2" will make that much of a differance. i have 4" more ground clearance than he does, hows that for a poke Qboy Hassey

Sorry about that John its been a long time sence I talk to you and Scott and forgot who I gave Info to. and who did what in the making of his lift. As i have given the info to so many people Hassey

ME But its still a 4 cylinder theres only 2 maybe 3 that have built a 6" lift or higher on this board. as most of the board does not have the know how Hassey

Suabrubrat got the lift info from me and my site when i had my web site up use 2x6 tubing and cut into 2x2x6 you will need 14 total for your brat that 10 in the front (5 on each side) and 4 in the rear (2 on each side) drill holes in both ends of all 14 blocks use the orignial bolts and bolt all 10 blocks in place in the front flat sides faceing towards the front the 5th block on the inside will have the flat side facing the tire use 2x2 tubing and measure and cut to fit in between the blocks and weld them in place conecting all 5 blocks together do the same in the rear except you will also run a piece across conecting both sides You will have to buy 14 nuts and bolt for the bottom of the lift you will use 2x2 tubing and cut a piece and conect the front of the lift to the rear so when all is done you have built a sub frame that is solid and will not rock back and forth that just the basics theres a lot more involed in building the strut towers the rear shock mounts so you can run bigger shocks and even dual shocks if you wanted too and re building the rear suspention out of 2x2 tubing DO NOT USE 7" bolt like some people on the board thinks i did I personaly would not trust the 4" or 5" bolts that come with the byb/pk lifts Hassey

It is kinda neat to know that I'm not the only one who has thought about the Hatch and Dune buggy idea, if i had the space and room i would try it. But having to rebuild my brat after the accident is enough right now Hassey

I bought a tonneau cover for my brat when I bought it brand new back in 1984 it looked just like the one in the photo above Hassey