Subarian

BTW, dual range trannys have a lever that's separate from the shifter, rather than a pushbutton on the shifter.

Low is only available on dual range trannys. You shouldn't run on dry pavement for very long in 4wd. You can pretty much shift at any speed as long as you're going straight and your wheels aren't slipping.

Personally, I think I'd call it well toasted.

Cat caught in the front U-joint?

You can drive a long way after the light comes on.

At least you can tell it's a soob.

Whatever you do to get it out, let us know. The suspense is killing me!

If you're talking about getting the hub off the axle shaft, you have a couple of options. one is to use the castle nut. Turn it around so the flat side is out and thread it on the shaft until the shaft is just below the outer edge of the nut. This will protect the threads of the shaft while you smack it with your biggest hammer. Another way is to use a drift punch in the depression in the middle of the shaft. Either way, you just need to protect the threaded end of the shaft while you convince it to move.

I'd have to look at mine to be sure, but I think the #1 is closest to the front of the engine. The only reason it's important on the Subaru is that you have a limited range of movement on the hold-down bolts.

I assume you're talking about the externally adjustable ones, not the air adjust garbage. They're not hard to adjust, you just take the weight off the strut and turn it to the desired height. I've never had to replace mine, so I'm not sure how much they are. I don't really adjust mine, so I think if I did have to replace them I'd go with the non-adjustable struts.

Mine's an 86, and I often put in 13 or 14 gallons, and I've put in 15 before. The light is designed to make sure you can get to a gas station after it comes on. I don't think there's a way to adjust it.

You should be able to get to the lever the cable connects to with a long screwdriver and open it that way. Be careful of slipping and hitting your AC condensor or radiator.

So far what you've done sounds good. The #1 cylinder (front on passenger side) should be on the compression stroke, which you determined by making sure you had compression on the way to TDC. Now you want to go somewhere near where your timing should be, probably around 8 degrees BTDC. Note where the #1 wire is on the distributor. Make a small mark on the base of the distributor below the #1 wire so you'll be able to see it when you're installing it- a pencil mark works fine. Now remove the cap and slide the distributor into position so that the rotor is pointing straight at the mark you made. You should be very close to your initial timing. Also make sure you have the firing order correct. Hope this makes it easier for you.

Did you loosen the intake bolts when you did your tuneup? There's a coolant crossover there, and if the gasket was damaged, you could be leaking coolant in from the intake.

I don't know the answer, but the JY has a cross-reference that will answer your question. Alternately, you could call a dealer and get part numbers for each.

You'll see a big improvement. I bought a full-size van that supposedly had a bad motor. While I was working under it I noticed a rattle in the convertor. I pulled off the convertor and when I stood it on end, the guts fell out. It was like having a brand new engine.

Of course, you could always let it run out and then see how much it takes....

My 86 wagon is roughly 16 gallons. You can find the info in a haynes or chiltons under capacities.

Yeah. Owner of other cars have to remove parts to lighten them. Subaru owners just need to get all the mud and rocks out!

Have you tried smelling the smoke? Oil smoke is usually blue-gray, and antifreeze white, but smell might give you a clearer picture. They don't smell at all like each other.

A simple garden hose flush won't remove hard deposits, but it might be enough. Like you said, it's worth a try before you spend the time and money on replacing it. It worked for mine.

If you have a combination wrench, you can put the box end on the bolt. Then use another box wrench and slip it over the open end of the wrench. That will allow you to approximately double your torque on the wrench. Alternately, you can use a cheater bar. It's just a length of pipe that will slip over your wrench handle and allow you to apply more leverage. I have several different lengths. It works best if your wrenches have a good warranty.

Here's a picture of what it looks like. The cone end goes into the radiator opening. This particular model (made by Lisle) has a vacuum fitting you put on any vacuum port. It draws gases from the radiator. If the gases in the radiator are combustion gases, the fluid turnes from blue to yellow. And yes, a blown head gasket can put a tremendous amount of pressure into your cooling system, as well as quickly adding heat to it.

I would flush it with the garden hose, but reverse flush it, so the hose is on the outlet side of the core. Also check to make sure the air door is closing off the cold air when the heat is on. The cable sometimes breaks off the end of the lever.

Did you check the gaskets on the exhaust flanges on the heads? It might also be helpful to know what year and engine you have.