moosens

So many of the early dealers got a raw deal when they had to bump up to a larger capacity dealership.That's how we got this load of stock.That poor guy went under too and had to eat all his stock that he couldn't sell privately.Word is that the outgoing dealers could not sell back to SOA and were not allowed to sell to the new larger dealership taking over their area. Since you're not too active here can you send me an email address you check often,or a phone number for when the time comes?Use the PM here or email,please. Thanks, Paul

Right here. Tonly ff-1's we know of belong to one guy here in CT,a wagon,and two out west with a third nearby one of those that has been in a garage for a long time. The wagon in Washington I'm working on.They use is on their property but it's not road worthy right now. The other two are in Oregon.they're a two door and four door sedan,both questionalbe.The two door owner stopped by here but I think he's keeping it for now but seems to me he's not going to get it on the road soon with somewhat limited knowledge of the car and on parts to fix it. My friend Charlie here in CT doesn't get on our board as a user,but does check in once in a while.I'll let him know about it. If you can keep it tucked away I'm sure one of us will get it from you eventually.We REALLY appreciate your coming on here to offer it. Charlie,and I with another board member just scored a stash of old dealer stock from '68 to '79 with much of it being for the ff-1's.Charlie is stoked to get his restored but calls it about 4-5 years down the road.His wagon runs but is tucked away now inside.I'm hoping to get the other wagon in WA but I'm probably many months from being able to do so.

Forget the posts before this one,please. I'm looking for any experience with the lightened flywheel,where the clutch fork sits with the lite f/w,and how to get the hill holder adj. rod to pass through the pin with enough space to spin a nut or two on. Thanks.

Thanks Brad,good to see you around.

I came to this conclusion as well. After years of my faithful duckbill pliers.:-p Autozone for sure.Advanced too,I think that's where I got mine. I only got the picture from Summit,although their price for that brake tool was no higher ($9.99) I really don't shop much with them these days.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=sum-w80621

There's a good little cheapy tool for that at most every mega parts store.It's a cube that has different configs for multi makes.Use it on the 3/8 drive ratchet. I used to use a pair of duckbill pliers in the primitive days. Yes,like Todd said,spray that dust boot so it doesn't turn with the piston and tear it,and for some more speed cranking it.

To check for that take the distributor cap off and grab the rotor.Give it a little tug side to side,and if you can pull it up off the shaft you need to find the set screw to hold the rotor down.If still it has side to side play then you've probably got a wobbly shaft due to the lower bearing.

Doc,what colors on the 70's 4WD wagon? Your new emblem look great,it'a a late '77 and '78 style.Let me know the date of mfg. if you can please. I sent a PM before I saw this post in this forum.I'd take any good blue interior "remote" door handle covers,those recessed covers,you know the deal .Also would take any good front carpet,and the thin vinyl coated paper they use against the firewall up near the driver's feat and around towards the driver's door. If you don't mind,PM me a number to call and I'll send you mine.I don't have a lot to spend but I'll take care of your time for sure.Mostly need little things that don't take long at all to get.If it's not a blue interior there's still a few things I'd get. Thanks, Paul

Ouch! Glad you're ok. So,what was that roll bar worth? Saved you outright,and your family from grief and funeral expenses....that's gotta be worth $150,right? Again,glad you're ok But,did you have to show me that first edition 4WD wagon? OK,which vulture is going to ask first?

Fred,no sweat.And thanks for offering.Who knows,maybe the car will last that long here,but I kind of do need to get it moving WELL under it's own power.It'll limp real good for a little,maybe a minute,but not uphill.Toasted!

I think all 25 spline Turbo axles,which are for manual shift only as I recall,will have a larger diameter wheel-thru end. Yes,it's (axle info) in a FSM but Idon't have a later year available right now.

thanks Pat....tools across America!!:-p should see them end of the week. Will my SPFI fuel management work with MPFI? Fuel pump too? In other words,can I drop in the MPFI and just hook up the same feed-return-etc. fuel lines and plug in the SPFI harness and go? Thanks Fred for starting this thread.

Good report on that guy and the axles!! Just got one not too long ago,just installed it days ago. My buddy Charlie was drooling over it. "Wow,that's a freakin' Subaru axle,not some rebuild." Be aware that the diameter of the shaft where it passes through the bearings is NEW,not worn like a rebuild so it's TIGHT,real tight. Is that Skip's alter ego/backup eBay name I see bidding on BOTH of them? Skip???

Well,I for one can say that I'm considering a swap from a toasted SPFI to an MPFI spider that I have complete,ready to drop in.For me it's a question of having THAT engine when I can't seem to scrape up an SPFI anywhere up here.:-\ Was going through storage and the MPFI is actually there,not too far into the mess,so I could pull it out fairly easily. Not looking for horepower gains,myself.Just to keep a car on the road. Does the MPFI have a different exhaust post too?I couldn't look at the engine I have and have totally forgotten..... I never had many MPFI's around at all.I'm guessing it'sthe same exhaust or you guys would have said something by now.....I hope.

Thanks,but I knew that about 10 years before you were born. So,anyhow,here's something I just remembered. Skip lightened the flywheel,which causes the clutch fork to be positioned well back from its normal resting place.So now I've got a hill holder adjustment rod that is slightly short.I can't even spin a nut on it right now. I'm going to change the title of this post and see how folks with the lighter f/w have gotten by.

Nevermind Pat NYC school system teaches to over 110 (maybe more) nationalities of students every day.That's number 1 according to the news. Mo, It's getting extremely difficult for any Loyale parts or cars to be found in good condition.You have to find those small pockets of old Subarus and usually work with private sales or a good junkyard that holds older Subarus. Reality is they mostly hustle the cars into the crusher in the more populated areas.Very rarely will a yard near a city hold cars long and most don't want you going to the cars.So you never get to see exactly what the car looks like,etc. There are or were some specialty shops in NJ that were HEAVILY into the 70's and 80's and early 90's Subarus.It's tough to say how many places are still open.Like Pat said,they now cater to only the last 8 or so years of production.Anything old is mostly garbage to them. Hal's in North Carolina comes to mind.An East coast legend for sure.Kind of far but you might call and see what's to consider.The drive down can be awsome!Might make a nice weekend outing for you if you have time. http://www.halspartsandservice.com/ There's older shops in NJ but I just can't recall the names right now.Maybe Boz would know (PHATBRAT). Around NYC you'll find nothing but a hard time looking for older Subarus or parts,etc. unless you run into one of us here.I'm about 50 minutes with no traffic from upper Manhattan.Sounds like you're looking for stuff that never really went over here.THere never were any true performance upgrades,etc. commonly available for the Loyale cars around here.Nothing execptional. Make a list for us to work off of,please. We'll do our best to see what we can line you up with when you arrive. Will you have a car to use on the weekends?

Hey gang,our good USMB member 'sko a.k.a. Bosco is hitting a yard tomorrow in LA.Half price day so he can score some nice parts for us and ship to you.Helps him if you buy and surely the prices will help you in return. He's going to be busy so he asked me to post for him.There's two Gen I Brats and an XT...6? and possibly more cool cars not yet seen. Think up your gen I Brat parts list and he'll post soon. He has some blue gen I Brat interior parts already.I snagged the remote door handle covers,sorry.

Edited subject title early Tuesday AM 09/05/06 Please check posts further down,thanks. Searched the USRM....found nothing. 1987 turbo 4WD single range Both cables are older but very good.Might be a little sticky from sitting but I've got decent movement from both. I can't seem to get the clutch set up like I expect it to be.Doesn't return well at all.I got it a little better before I decided to call it a day. Correct me if I'm wrong,please.Is the only clutch return spring the hill holder spring? The turbo parts car I had sported a seperate return spring since his hill holder was out to lunch.I'm thinking that might be the way to go for now but really I want to do it right.And besides,that car is gone with the spring so I'd have to go buy something and right now stores are closing,etc. I've got both cables taunt and the adjustment nuts are well down the rods,not near the outer end but near the inner side so there's plenty of room for adjustment. Any help is as always,greatly appreciated.

Me too!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana: :banana: Congrats on yours being so cheap! We still have a $200 car in the family too. But,the big story.......... Got the RuStFrEe Turbo wagon going today! Just let it run for a few minutes.Going to put the t/belt covers on and get air in the tires tomorrow.Loving life at the moment!!!!!!!! Good feeling indeed,much needed for the spirit. Rustfree from the southwest,this car was found locally for $500 Ran it for year,almost exactly,then it needed a dif./tranny swap....TWO plus years ago!!!!!!!!!!! Two years plus I've waited for this day.I think I'll post about the ordeal for good fun. Probably have a good $300 into it with the new axle,all seals,pumps,just about every cooland and duct hose I could get,etc.....so for $800 I've got a body that should last another 20 years if I treat it properly.Yeah,I know,the EA82T won't last that long,but I can live with that.

Can you post a link that works,please?

Cool,thanks. But I've just got to find out why all the other parts were in there.

Yellow,THE BEST safety color for visibility.Many intelligent motorcyclist(the fast guys,not the fat guys) use yellow in some way. .....come on man,don't go pink.

For us it's a tough time. Our plans have been pushed back at least a month,but if our home sells quick we could still do it in early October. If it doesn't sell by then we might still do a long weekend at OBX for sanity. Right now I need to retain my marbles and not think about sand and waves. :-\ :-p

N/A fan has longer stem.That's why it's even that much tighter going in. Anyhow,I'm beyond this point now,so thanks everybody.