moosens

Bump into the wind.

Well at least I saw my box with my service manuals inside. I was way busy and did not take the box down and open it. But we have some warm weather tomorrow so I’ll check as I get back there. I kind of thought that link wouldn’t have the A/C from my foggy memory. I think folks who upload these get a little tired and figure “hey I’ve got the engine section, that ought to keep folks happy” and that’s the end of the upload. But with new technology maybe folks will fill in more.

They’re fairly great. I have a small fleet of them now. 2002,2003,2003,2003 all Legacy or Legacy Outback. In 2004 and after you’ll get the fly by wire deal so no more throttle cable. And if you do an engine swap there’s a little work around for the EGR is swapping against the 2000-02 with a 2003 or 2004. You might never need that info since they generally run pretty well. Oh the piston slap in one of ours. Mostly when cold then quiets down. That’s the “new” lifter noise. Lifters aren’t as loud as the EA engines. Worse problem with driving these is just the usual - other drivers.

I might have the paper version at storage. Will check as I can. But yeah I think the online downloads are mostly engine and if you’re lucky body too. But finding A/C might be tough online.

My first thought is yes you’ve got from I think 1998-2001 plus or minus Not sure about doing a full swap but going to the two cam vs using the quad cam was an option many folks took up back when.

Caused me to chuckle somewhat , yes that’s the other issue among our beloved community. Thin wallets. But hey I’m among that group. Best car for thrifty types with even minor skills to be able to maximize roadworthiness. The fiberglass fender I bought on eBay many years ago like maybe the late 90s and pretty sure I paid $15 and fairly cheap shipping. Nothing is going to really make your old Subaru driving experience any better beyond dropping in an EJ22 and appropriate drive train. Kind of tricky with these old relics. Honestly I think like you do SP , somewhat. But no way beyond just personal use. There’s at least one guy in the Ducati forums who vacuum bags his own ideas for things like foot pegs and clutch cover , instrument mounts, etc. Yup, I’ve got my ideas too. For my 73 Coupe I’m thinking it’s an easy effort to make my window trim in carbon fiber. And more. But no sense spouting ideas I don’t really have the shop and equipment for. But like I said before it’s nice to see personal efforts. Like that guy on the Ducati forums I mentioned. Enjoy !

Right, Benny picked up where I left off or didn’t quite declare too well. Demand. And what Benny said about the community is 100% dead on. SP - we can surely appreciate your enthusiasm but you’ve got to realize there’s a few of us who’ve travelled the same path of thought. Only to see the light/darkness and turn back. The one good group purchase we did , we actually did a second successful purchase as well , was for the front windshield rubber gaskets for gen one. Been talk about lots of possible repro parts but no way is a manufacturer going to get involved given the vintage Subaru numbers. Back yard, basement, garage efforts are super great to see. And I’m still always scheming to try to work out some type of personal vacuum bagging, makeshift autoclave type of set up.

Not likely worth the mold making effort. There are fiberglass front fenders out there for gen one that show up once in a while. I might even still have one. There were two shops that did those or at least two different results. Some have a wicked nasty orange peel texture and others don’t. Mine is the smooth finish type. Some seems to come from Canada and not sure about the others. One seller in the Pittsburgh area had a small amount of them a few years back. That guy seemed to fade away but those were the lower quality anyways. Back to contemporary composite panel construction, I also work with the stuff with autoclaves and molds and all that fun stuff. But I’m not about to start mold making. Had thought about just vacuum bagging the panel with a homemade caul plate. But I don’t have time and space. And I do that stuff at work for aircraft. Also in the “wuz gonna” file is the front air damn from Kamei that I had that I think Galen H has now.

Car-parts.com Has to be one on the west coast.

Sweet! Little at a time. My first thought on the brakes was wondering if anyone has done inboard disks somehow. That would probably take too much money but I am thinking if axles are cut down maybe they could be adapted at the inner ends to accept a disk. Or an existing setup like from a Lotus etc. as an example. Pardon my freaky thought in the middle of your hard work. Inboard brakes at the diff, big bash plate to shield it all. Anyways , cool to see as usual and who knows I could maybe copy you or use the knowledge to take a different approach etc. 73 Coupe over the Impreza and just bump out the fenders and quarters with obnoxious looking flares. We’ll see. I’m years away from that project more than likely. But I’d want to keep it thrifty too.

Pretty sure there’s a current post on FB showing the DC intake equal in length to the single carb which make sense. There’s no difference in the block or heads so no reason to stretch the intake. Guessing you have a narrow case EA71 from 1979 and earlier. Beginning 1980 they get a wider case. Intake might still be the same, I’m failing to recall.

Edit today - this is where I’m at now with this offer. Norwich CT is where you’ll need to bring a trailer or flatbed. Items you’ll get or have offered to you: Hull of car - 1978 4WD wagon with loose doors, hood, cowl. No engine and no transmission. No front wheels - may or may not have front suspension/wheel hub. Has rear wheels. Those might be steel wheels or the flat spoke wagon wheels. Fuel tank will be included and is the same tank for a Brat. Unsure of the prop shaft, might keep that. Rear end will stay with axles and differential so the rear of the car can roll. Ceiling liner is really nice, doors mostly have all their interior bits and all have glass. Rear hatch also included. It’s a basic project hull. You can use it for parts or have some serious fun. Only asking a little to keep scrappers from pestering. Certainly much more value in parts than I’m asking. Fuel tank is same for Brat. Same can be said for the hood and cowl. Will also include at least one fender. If you also want something I have sitting up there at that time I’ll likely either donate or ask a very fair amount for items like a 1981 EA81 with first gen Brat top starter DUAL RANGE the original and limited production. Also have an EA71 I think and a second EA81 also sitting there. Show up, be a real enthusiast or project owner and I’ll be sure to throw a lot your way. I just don’t want scrappers wasting this car unless absolutely necessary. Also currently listed on eBay. It’s a $400 deal and if you’re a real vintage owner I’ll make the deal even better. Just keeping the scrappers away. I can’t seem to work out more pictures here so send a message or even better email me at moosens@yahoo.com and that’s easy enough. We can exchange numbers and I’ll text all the pics and videos I have. Just shot a good 6 minute plus walk around. Cool winter project! Norwich CT bring trailer or flatbed or collect the loose parts and I’ll cut up the hull.

Try the spray test on those hoses? While it’s running spray some WD-40 around the vacuum hose ends all over until you notice a change in idle. No funky smoke from the tailpipe ? A little white? A little black ? Normal ?

That should not affect timing. You’re sure you have an identical match on the alternator ? Coil may be loosing its life.

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!

Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational.

Ignition timing advance from the weights expanding etc inside the distributor. But yes there’s also the difference of the vacuum ports. What I’m getting at is folks had appreciated that ignition curve advance from the different distributor. Wish I had that crisp memory of which and why but maybe the archives might hold some info. But just reverting to stock it won’t mean much. There might be wiring diagrams online. Or they’re definitely in the back of all factory service manuals. I sold off my 80s but they’re cheap enough usually.

Maybe swapped for the advance curve. That was a bit of a thing to do for some. I’m not positive that applies to yours but i seem to recall the automatics had a better advance curve and maybe FWD different from 4wd ? I would have to check a parts manual. But that was my only thought on why they swapped it out. My 79 4wd wagon was swapped out with a FWD complete engine and exhaust. So i had to decipher that at one point due to ignition parts. Same deal it’s Hitachi or ND. Good luck with it.

I’ll look for you as I go through my stash. Pretty sure there’s one there. But as mentioned going forward parts availability. Forget originality just make it run and not be a hunt and wallet drain for parts. good luck, I’m a big fan of that engine and have at least two or more but they’re for vintage projects. So all my engine and related parts I don’t really want to sell. But in this case if I have that bracket I’ll let one go cheap.

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Their yard in Roxbury is wild. Ever been there? I might be up there this week.

Larry, it’s tough around here. Too many lawyers. Most places don’t let you walk around anymore. You guys enjoy what you have ! Tom, there’s always F&S. If it’s older than 20 years just talk with one of the guys in the Roxbury yard like Jeff. Not sure about Johnny’s in Thomaston, i think it’s changed hands but that was another good yard where he would let you walk around. Which place do you go to? LaJoie’s?

These guys and maybe Emily too, they’ll know more and be more than myself but a few items mentioned I can’t help but comment on. Bolt holes should have been super cleaned and same for bolts. I seem to recall you did use a thread chaser. But it’s not going to get easier going forward. If your heart is going to let your wallet solve problems on an EA82 in 2025/2026 it’ll get pricey and limited with who will take on such work. I’d give it another try but only after each and every bolt and its hole are cleaned and inspected for fit. Also my opinion - you likely started it up when you shouldn’t have. And i would take the heads off and be sure coolant isn’t where it shouldn’t be. Take a breath, you’ll have it back in action. You have to assess that O ring fitment. I know sometimes they look off but consider the sqaush down. FujiBond or equiv. should cure of course. You’ll need to see what that happened. Maybe had a solvent wipe-down that seeped in? Oil pan, i would try to reuse it if it came off like i expect it would having not been roasted. If not then they should be available or use sealant. Lots of is have used sealant only. Or a light smear behind the cork gasket. You’re still at a good age so enjoy that exercise, learning, and building speed and proficiency. And should you find yourself defeated after your efforts - find yourself and EJ22 - last resort, i know. I’m of the same skull density cult. Cheers !

Enjoy the venture! Many of us, the few still left here after the great FB saturation, have turned the pages on the EA82 era. Lucky for you i think there’s a current active member with a wealth of EA82 experience. I sure had mine, but i’m pretty much a user and abuser a backyard mechanic. Don’t be afraid to attack that heater unit. Pretty sure i did a write up on removing the dashboard and heater or accessing it for the core swap. That will also allow duct cleaning, flapper door re-foaming, general bleach n water wipedown, let it sit and do it a second time some would say.

Ahh, no holes. Sorry, dealing with too many later models here. Yikes! Yeah not much else other than what you mentioned. Remove the brake adjuster nuts and let it float inside while you strike a drift against the backside of the drum. This draws a memory. Good luck. Let us know how you tricked it into removing itself.