moosens

So you bought it so you should be happy that you spent an appropriate amount of money on it. That’s what matters. Ask a guy like me who drove those cars but has moved beyond and I’ll be critical. Ask a guy like yourself who went out of his way (correctly it seems) to fetch a vehicle that’s tied to your heart and you’ll get a more positive appraisal. Again with opinions, I’d keep that rack on and romp through the Barrens of south Jersey. Gotta have something to put the Jersey Devil on when you drag him out of there.

I wonder if we can trick the parking brake switch? If you pull up on the lever as you may already know it cuts the running lights. I use that same tactic on a certain property in the dark I like to approach in a very stealth manner. I’ve got the parking brake slightly yanked upwards just enough to kill the lights. Not even the first click. But maybe just have the switch engaged at all times? I’ve not yet lifted the cover and messed it even viewed. But I’d guess it’s the same as the generations before.

That’s maximum as I know it. And I can’t recall seeing 50 over. Not many folks have bothered at that point. I cannot recall anyone with a 50 over EA anything. Good luck with it.

Lots to consider. Body condition Last time head gaskets were done. Etc.

I’m on the NJTP right now near exit 5 Hount Molly lol Mount Holly Was just here last weekend too. See you in September at NJMP Millville for the motorcycle races. And welcome!

Sorry I read crank instead of cam. Cam gear on the EA71 is two small bolts. Same on EA81

Please investigate before you decimate. If it’s in the block. Heat and pullers won’t do anything.

I was told you’ve got to split the cases. I didn’t want to hear that too if that helps. Good luck. Post back how it got done please.

This is right along the lines of what I had to do dropping a 2000 Legacy engine into a 2003 Legacy. They made the first two or three years of that era with the EGR but didn’t for the last two. Or the other way around. On that one, as you should do, keep the original intake. You’ll have to get the drill and tap for that EGR pipe. Don’t drill too deep. Take the other one out and measure that depth and put some tape on your drill bit as a marker. I think it’s an M22 x 1.5 but double check that. I might have that set still. I had loaned it but I think Jesse gave it back. But for me to find it right now would be tough. Otherwise I’d mail it to you. I had my daughter get it from Amazon and it was like $16 for the set. Use a smaller pilot drill first.

Thank you. So then it’s about the harness and the amount of lamp connectors only? Will the shells cross over without a fitment issue? Old days it would be set off for both. I’ll have to go look. I just figured if it was easy then someone else would have already done it.

Outback lights have that black outline and Legacy does not. Are they a straight exchange or is there any added piece etc I’m not aware of? This is our first Outback and we have had it still have three Legacys and a couple parts cars came and went too. All Legacy. I prefer the Legacy headlights. And I have a few as you can imagine from the parts cars.

72-79 cars except Coupe and Hardtop and 1977-81 Brat. https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm This past summer I scored three vintage front windshields at one location in Massachusetts. Good luck.

Welcome ! Once upon a time I was going to be a mechanical engineer. Enjoy the Board. It’s one of the more pleasant stops among any car forum I’m aware of. Plenty of folks from the outside world have appreciated this Board and its classy moderation during its heyday. Hey speaking of 79 I own and often drive a 79. 4WD wagon cheers! What kind of stuff did you and your dad have for wheels in your lifetimes ? Funny story - going through our parents stuff my mom kept every car’s paperwork from a 1949 Dodge, 52 Hillman,etc right up to the current Honda I’ve taken possession of. Enjoy!

Oh man you’re out in Oregon. I’m way out East. You guys have lots more out there. Shipping would bite. And 72-79 sedan or wagon or Brat will have the exact same front windshield. Only the Coupe and Hardtop are different. PRP carries the gasket. Part number WCR-288

And for the smart folks who will look here instead of FB the hose has TWO different diameters at each end. That’s not just a straight hose.

Have to see if there’s a split in the hose etc That’s why I posted the info about the hose fitting all wagons and Brats. That’ll at least give you a better shot at finding a decent boneyard donor. Otherwise I’m no so sure what I would do to repair the hose. All comes down to what the fuel will do corrosively to the repair substance. Replace with boneyard hose is my first choice. Given that I have two 1970s wagons I need to retain my extra.

FYI California filler tube p/n is 6421 14710 for 80/81 Brat California that’s the original part number

Ok that filler hose is the same for all wagons and Brat. Wagons both FWD and 4WD. Upper metal filler tube has some variations.

If you take that hose off be sure to empty the tank pretty much entirely. I can’t add pics here these days but I had my tank redone by Moyer in PA and went through all these hoses and sending unit gasket, etc. I do currently have a front wheel drive wagon parts car - 1979 and I took a quick look and the tube looks similar. I’ll check my parts catalog later.

Interesting that I this past week have a similar issue if not the same. Mine is a 79 4wd wagon which is basically the same fuel filler tube and hose as yours. I’ve been keeping my tank lower until I can get some time under it. I may just need the top clamp repositioned. And sort of related, I bought an aftermarket locking cap and the gasket has gone dookie already. A Rock Auto product. Not a Stant. But that’s also thrown some fuel up and out from the filler tube. Just enough to show on the paint. But the hose is also wet when the tank was full or over 1/2. So to answer your questions. That hose is not radiator size and you’d want it to be able to handle fuel. Especially these days with who knows what else they dump into it. Ethanol at least. And it’s a tough one to find. It’s formed enough that just using a straight tube might not work so great. Take it off and inspect it well. Get fresh clamps. Clean the heck out of the tube end and the tank inlet spout. Not much else to worry about. Breather tube above it. That’s usually dry as far as I recall. But check that smaller tube as well. There’s another blow back tube and of course the feeder to the pump line over on the right side but I wouldn’t be concerned with those right now.

Updated and edited end of March 2025 Bump

Keep in mind I’m talking Loyale series and older. I probably have the parts from one of my parts cars but it’s one of those items I haven’t had to deal with yet. And now it looks like I’m stepping aside from the first gen Legacy for a while. Did you also post on FB ? I think I replied there. I’m in CT and will be blowing out decades of parts. My dedication is 1970s, first gen Legacy, and 2002-04 Legacy only. And I hand a few of the first gen Legs. Getting the boxes out these days and really hoping to unload it all or large lots for cheap. Cheers!

Pretty sure these also still have a ballast resistor I believe it is called. I’ll try to find the location when I get home. But on the older models it’s down there at the blower fan box. The older ones have a ceramic type of application over three of the four resistor wires and the fourth is a straight load. That fourth one or your number four on your dashboard switch will always operate as I recall.

Some folks have baked their ECUs just enough to get the solder to loosen up and reset. Also check every ground for good metal contact. And if the general field that a ground lands on is a rusty area that’s not considered a good ground. Folks add ground wires. Usually see the braided type, nice and thick. That would be a starting point. Good luck. Post back.

Thanks ! I’ll swap them over as soon as life stops pulling me around to everything but my car repairs.