moosens

Well you were raised right. Thank your parents for us, please. You’ll do well with this car I can tell. There’s enough older guys still out there who contribute to the knowledge base. And plenty of archives here. So back to the transmission, most dual range five speeds are going to be ready to use. See if maybe there’s some info or a video on a basic check if a differential online. I think you grab both stub axles and rotate forward and rear should turn counter clockwise as you look at the tail of the transmission. But it’s been a long while for me. There’s not a lot to these and I’m pretty sure like Benny and myself you’re going to see older folks say “send it”. If it was the four speed I’d probably advise you to upgrade to the five.

And BTW please don’t be offended by the “thrifty types” comment. I’m in that batch - New England boy. This is generally a site for folks who wrench themselves or are lower budgeted and looking for assistance on older cars. So it’s a big boat and we’re all in it. With very little exception.

We have to understand the shops need to pay bills and keep a good reputation of successful work on more contemporary vehicles so word gets out and business grows or sustains. No shop I know of had a great reputation for working on older cars. And like most places it is not just about impossible to find that older guy still wrenching and supporting older vehicles that’s not a full blown restoration shop with rates as high as dealers etc. Sounds like the shop you sent yours to could potentially tell you they’d like to have that block machined and heads etc. Aircraft - ultralight- guys go though that because they’ll be in the air and it’s life and death. And the ticket isn’t for thrifty types. As for your transmission I’m with Benny. Don’t just let it sit there assuming it’s got issues. D/R four speeds yes the synchros but you can work around for quite a while. D/R five speed wouldn’t even think about it. That’d already be in and I’d be driving it. Old guy opinions. Good luck ! Let us know what happened.

Yes but with the switch off and car still running the drl’s are on. That’s annoying and a hazard while driving. Rear lights are always far too dim if they’re even on as drl’s I still haven’t looked yet but I’d bet we can engage that parking brake lever SWITCH to stay engaged.

Much to add, but let us know your plans for it.

Oh and congratulations and enjoy the F out of that thing. If you’re at all like myself you’ll use it and not pamper it too much. But that’s your choice and this far down the line with less parts availability I can see where you won’t thrash it around. Plenty pictures of my 1978 4WD wagon romping through the Barrens on the internet. But that was my choice. Car still lives on. If you hit the trails and want some company give me a message in advance and I’ll try like hell to make it down there.

So you bought it so you should be happy that you spent an appropriate amount of money on it. That’s what matters. Ask a guy like me who drove those cars but has moved beyond and I’ll be critical. Ask a guy like yourself who went out of his way (correctly it seems) to fetch a vehicle that’s tied to your heart and you’ll get a more positive appraisal. Again with opinions, I’d keep that rack on and romp through the Barrens of south Jersey. Gotta have something to put the Jersey Devil on when you drag him out of there.

I wonder if we can trick the parking brake switch? If you pull up on the lever as you may already know it cuts the running lights. I use that same tactic on a certain property in the dark I like to approach in a very stealth manner. I’ve got the parking brake slightly yanked upwards just enough to kill the lights. Not even the first click. But maybe just have the switch engaged at all times? I’ve not yet lifted the cover and messed it even viewed. But I’d guess it’s the same as the generations before.

That’s maximum as I know it. And I can’t recall seeing 50 over. Not many folks have bothered at that point. I cannot recall anyone with a 50 over EA anything. Good luck with it.

Lots to consider. Body condition Last time head gaskets were done. Etc.

I’m on the NJTP right now near exit 5 Hount Molly lol Mount Holly Was just here last weekend too. See you in September at NJMP Millville for the motorcycle races. And welcome!

Sorry I read crank instead of cam. Cam gear on the EA71 is two small bolts. Same on EA81

Please investigate before you decimate. If it’s in the block. Heat and pullers won’t do anything.

I was told you’ve got to split the cases. I didn’t want to hear that too if that helps. Good luck. Post back how it got done please.

This is right along the lines of what I had to do dropping a 2000 Legacy engine into a 2003 Legacy. They made the first two or three years of that era with the EGR but didn’t for the last two. Or the other way around. On that one, as you should do, keep the original intake. You’ll have to get the drill and tap for that EGR pipe. Don’t drill too deep. Take the other one out and measure that depth and put some tape on your drill bit as a marker. I think it’s an M22 x 1.5 but double check that. I might have that set still. I had loaned it but I think Jesse gave it back. But for me to find it right now would be tough. Otherwise I’d mail it to you. I had my daughter get it from Amazon and it was like $16 for the set. Use a smaller pilot drill first.

Thank you. So then it’s about the harness and the amount of lamp connectors only? Will the shells cross over without a fitment issue? Old days it would be set off for both. I’ll have to go look. I just figured if it was easy then someone else would have already done it.

Outback lights have that black outline and Legacy does not. Are they a straight exchange or is there any added piece etc I’m not aware of? This is our first Outback and we have had it still have three Legacys and a couple parts cars came and went too. All Legacy. I prefer the Legacy headlights. And I have a few as you can imagine from the parts cars.

72-79 cars except Coupe and Hardtop and 1977-81 Brat. https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm This past summer I scored three vintage front windshields at one location in Massachusetts. Good luck.

Welcome ! Once upon a time I was going to be a mechanical engineer. Enjoy the Board. It’s one of the more pleasant stops among any car forum I’m aware of. Plenty of folks from the outside world have appreciated this Board and its classy moderation during its heyday. Hey speaking of 79 I own and often drive a 79. 4WD wagon cheers! What kind of stuff did you and your dad have for wheels in your lifetimes ? Funny story - going through our parents stuff my mom kept every car’s paperwork from a 1949 Dodge, 52 Hillman,etc right up to the current Honda I’ve taken possession of. Enjoy!

Oh man you’re out in Oregon. I’m way out East. You guys have lots more out there. Shipping would bite. And 72-79 sedan or wagon or Brat will have the exact same front windshield. Only the Coupe and Hardtop are different. PRP carries the gasket. Part number WCR-288

And for the smart folks who will look here instead of FB the hose has TWO different diameters at each end. That’s not just a straight hose.

Have to see if there’s a split in the hose etc That’s why I posted the info about the hose fitting all wagons and Brats. That’ll at least give you a better shot at finding a decent boneyard donor. Otherwise I’m no so sure what I would do to repair the hose. All comes down to what the fuel will do corrosively to the repair substance. Replace with boneyard hose is my first choice. Given that I have two 1970s wagons I need to retain my extra.

FYI California filler tube p/n is 6421 14710 for 80/81 Brat California that’s the original part number

Ok that filler hose is the same for all wagons and Brat. Wagons both FWD and 4WD. Upper metal filler tube has some variations.

If you take that hose off be sure to empty the tank pretty much entirely. I can’t add pics here these days but I had my tank redone by Moyer in PA and went through all these hoses and sending unit gasket, etc. I do currently have a front wheel drive wagon parts car - 1979 and I took a quick look and the tube looks similar. I’ll check my parts catalog later.