moosens

Not likely worth the mold making effort. There are fiberglass front fenders out there for gen one that show up once in a while. I might even still have one. There were two shops that did those or at least two different results. Some have a wicked nasty orange peel texture and others don’t. Mine is the smooth finish type. Some seems to come from Canada and not sure about the others. One seller in the Pittsburgh area had a small amount of them a few years back. That guy seemed to fade away but those were the lower quality anyways. Back to contemporary composite panel construction, I also work with the stuff with autoclaves and molds and all that fun stuff. But I’m not about to start mold making. Had thought about just vacuum bagging the panel with a homemade caul plate. But I don’t have time and space. And I do that stuff at work for aircraft. Also in the “wuz gonna” file is the front air damn from Kamei that I had that I think Galen H has now.

Car-parts.com Has to be one on the west coast.

Sweet! Little at a time. My first thought on the brakes was wondering if anyone has done inboard disks somehow. That would probably take too much money but I am thinking if axles are cut down maybe they could be adapted at the inner ends to accept a disk. Or an existing setup like from a Lotus etc. as an example. Pardon my freaky thought in the middle of your hard work. Inboard brakes at the diff, big bash plate to shield it all. Anyways , cool to see as usual and who knows I could maybe copy you or use the knowledge to take a different approach etc. 73 Coupe over the Impreza and just bump out the fenders and quarters with obnoxious looking flares. We’ll see. I’m years away from that project more than likely. But I’d want to keep it thrifty too.

Pretty sure there’s a current post on FB showing the DC intake equal in length to the single carb which make sense. There’s no difference in the block or heads so no reason to stretch the intake. Guessing you have a narrow case EA71 from 1979 and earlier. Beginning 1980 they get a wider case. Intake might still be the same, I’m failing to recall.

Edit today - February 7, 2026 Norwich CT is where you’ll need to bring a trailer or flatbed. Items you’ll get or have offered to you: Hull of car - 1978 4WD wagon with loose doors, hood, cowl. No engine and no transmission. No front wheels - may or may not have front suspension/wheel hub. Has rear wheels. Those might be steel wheels or the flat spoke wagon wheels. Fuel tank will be included and is the same tank for a Brat. Unsure of the prop shaft, might keep that. Rear end will stay with axles and differential so the rear of the car can roll. Ceiling liner is really nice, doors mostly have all their interior bits and all have glass. Rear hatch also included. It’s a basic project hull. You can use it for parts or have some serious fun. Only asking a little to keep scrappers from pestering. Certainly much more value in parts than I’m asking. Fuel tank is same for Brat. Same can be said for the hood , fender, and cowl. Will include at least one fender. If you also want other items that I have sitting up there at that time I’ll likely either donate or ask a very fair amount for items like a 1981 EA81 with first gen Brat top starter DUAL RANGE the original and limited production. Also have an EA71 I think and a second EA81 also sitting there. Show up, be a real enthusiast or project owner and I’ll be sure to throw a lot your way. I just don’t want scrappers wasting this car unless absolutely necessary. Also currently listed on eBay. It’s a $400 deal and if you’re a real vintage owner I’ll make the deal even better. Just keeping the scrappers away. I can’t seem to work out more pictures here so send a message or even better email me at moosens@yahoo.com and that’s easy enough. We can exchange numbers and I’ll text all the pics and videos I have. Just shot a good 6 minute plus walk around. Cool winter project! Norwich CT bring trailer or flatbed or collect the loose parts and I’ll cut up the hull. Winter push. Sure don’t want to do anything this weekend with the temperatures and winds. But would like to get this neat project off to the next person end of winter or early spring.

Try the spray test on those hoses? While it’s running spray some WD-40 around the vacuum hose ends all over until you notice a change in idle. No funky smoke from the tailpipe ? A little white? A little black ? Normal ?

That should not affect timing. You’re sure you have an identical match on the alternator ? Coil may be loosing its life.

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!

Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational.

Ignition timing advance from the weights expanding etc inside the distributor. But yes there’s also the difference of the vacuum ports. What I’m getting at is folks had appreciated that ignition curve advance from the different distributor. Wish I had that crisp memory of which and why but maybe the archives might hold some info. But just reverting to stock it won’t mean much. There might be wiring diagrams online. Or they’re definitely in the back of all factory service manuals. I sold off my 80s but they’re cheap enough usually.

Maybe swapped for the advance curve. That was a bit of a thing to do for some. I’m not positive that applies to yours but i seem to recall the automatics had a better advance curve and maybe FWD different from 4wd ? I would have to check a parts manual. But that was my only thought on why they swapped it out. My 79 4wd wagon was swapped out with a FWD complete engine and exhaust. So i had to decipher that at one point due to ignition parts. Same deal it’s Hitachi or ND. Good luck with it.

I’ll look for you as I go through my stash. Pretty sure there’s one there. But as mentioned going forward parts availability. Forget originality just make it run and not be a hunt and wallet drain for parts. good luck, I’m a big fan of that engine and have at least two or more but they’re for vintage projects. So all my engine and related parts I don’t really want to sell. But in this case if I have that bracket I’ll let one go cheap.

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Their yard in Roxbury is wild. Ever been there? I might be up there this week.

Larry, it’s tough around here. Too many lawyers. Most places don’t let you walk around anymore. You guys enjoy what you have ! Tom, there’s always F&S. If it’s older than 20 years just talk with one of the guys in the Roxbury yard like Jeff. Not sure about Johnny’s in Thomaston, i think it’s changed hands but that was another good yard where he would let you walk around. Which place do you go to? LaJoie’s?

These guys and maybe Emily too, they’ll know more and be more than myself but a few items mentioned I can’t help but comment on. Bolt holes should have been super cleaned and same for bolts. I seem to recall you did use a thread chaser. But it’s not going to get easier going forward. If your heart is going to let your wallet solve problems on an EA82 in 2025/2026 it’ll get pricey and limited with who will take on such work. I’d give it another try but only after each and every bolt and its hole are cleaned and inspected for fit. Also my opinion - you likely started it up when you shouldn’t have. And i would take the heads off and be sure coolant isn’t where it shouldn’t be. Take a breath, you’ll have it back in action. You have to assess that O ring fitment. I know sometimes they look off but consider the sqaush down. FujiBond or equiv. should cure of course. You’ll need to see what that happened. Maybe had a solvent wipe-down that seeped in? Oil pan, i would try to reuse it if it came off like i expect it would having not been roasted. If not then they should be available or use sealant. Lots of is have used sealant only. Or a light smear behind the cork gasket. You’re still at a good age so enjoy that exercise, learning, and building speed and proficiency. And should you find yourself defeated after your efforts - find yourself and EJ22 - last resort, i know. I’m of the same skull density cult. Cheers !

Enjoy the venture! Many of us, the few still left here after the great FB saturation, have turned the pages on the EA82 era. Lucky for you i think there’s a current active member with a wealth of EA82 experience. I sure had mine, but i’m pretty much a user and abuser a backyard mechanic. Don’t be afraid to attack that heater unit. Pretty sure i did a write up on removing the dashboard and heater or accessing it for the core swap. That will also allow duct cleaning, flapper door re-foaming, general bleach n water wipedown, let it sit and do it a second time some would say.

Ahh, no holes. Sorry, dealing with too many later models here. Yikes! Yeah not much else other than what you mentioned. Remove the brake adjuster nuts and let it float inside while you strike a drift against the backside of the drum. This draws a memory. Good luck. Let us know how you tricked it into removing itself.

Hi Dave, yeah I’m still kicking. Indeed many or most bailed out to face boob. It’s not so bad as long as you’re like us old guys and don’t get involved with anything other than cars. If you dare to sigh in there’s a couple dedicated groups for us dinosaurs. Old School Subaru and 4x140 or GTFO , those two are where I’ll be found. I created a pre-74 Subaru but it’s very quiet. Just a place for the very early 1100s 1300s and the first 1400 folks to exchange information. About that drum, geez, I thought you were near the desert. Either way wow that one sounds unusual. Not much I’m going to add at this time other that the usual get that 10lb sledge out or keep heating and spraying. Maybe get some strong bolts and send them in through the drum with those holes they leave for the tool?

Great info, thanks !

Uncovered some New Old Stock and re-chromed bumpers for gen one Brat and 4wd wagon. Listed on ebay. Check all out items on ebay under “cashingmystuffin”

Forgot to add my NOS cables are from the 70s and sat in a barn for a couple decades and on top of that now I’m a good 18 years after the lot purchase we made. Good luck.

Check for a crack in thr pedalbox. Left side near the pivot pin. Get down there and either press the clutch pedal with a hand ot have someone else do it while you observe the left side of the box. If it flexes at all you’ll likely have that crack. Do it regardless of all you’ve done and learned. This is a common problem. I have new old stock cables i sometimes need and they’re fine. If anything just a squirt of lube. But they're coated and should not bind much until many many many years of weather and grime.

Now I guess I’ll have to build a big box over the bed. It’ll be stocked with spares. Oh wait, first I need a Baja. Jim, you in Weston these days? If you’re bored in that retirement of yours I can keep you busy. ( big grin ) Big purge in process. Serious reduction of stock. And whatever else we really don’t need. Storage unit number two must go. Hey , you guys don’t forget my questions above.

To those wondering about tank treatment and fuel compatibility Moyer claims theirs is good for all contemporary fuels. I used my tank for a little over a year then removed it because the new owner is making the wagon electric. So I kept that tank and it looks like the day I got it back on the inside, and out. Enjoy !