OB99W

First, determine which ABS system you have (ABS-2E ?): http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf . Then (as has already been suggested), next time the light come on read any codes: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf . That should get you looking in the right area.

You'll note that my post #10 specifically mentions the intake vacuum leak issue in reference to P0507, and I further said that P1507 could have the same causes. So yes, do fix any obvious intake leaks. Okay, I think I see why you're having a problem with what I've been saying. No, the issues aren't ''solved by cutting power''. What happens is that when the ECU detects a fault sufficent to trip code P1507, it puts the engine management system in a fail-safe (limping) mode. It will stay in that mode until you shut off the engine. The next time the engine is started, it will run fine unless the ECU again detects the conditions that can trigger P1507, and if it does will re-enter fail-safe. So, what you are experiencing is likely just the ''limping'' mode after the fault is detected. You should first deal with vacuum leaks. Once you've done that, if P1507 still comes up, the switch can be tested with an ohmmeter, as described in the EndWrench piece.

I'm glad you're making progress, and seem to be enjoying it. Reread the last paragraph of my post #10 in this thread, and look at the information at EndWrench in the link I posted. Checking the transmission neutral switch for reliable contact is the first thing to do. Once the ECU is ''unhappy'' enough to give you a P1507 code, it's in a fail-safe mode and engine performance will suffer.

If the PCV system gets plugged, the effect is the opposite of what I previously described. As far as the mixture is concerned, it tends to be enriched. Other than that, crankcase pressure builds up (which can blow oil past seals), the air filter can become oil-contaminated, and if the problem is allowed to exist long enough the engine can sludge up. EDIT: The PCV valve is a metering device -- it doesn't just have an ''open'' or ''closed'' state of operation. If it isn't free to flow as it was designed (whether due to sludge, the spring getting weak, etc.) it will negatively affect engine operation.

The PCV valve is supposed to be closed the most at idle, opening more as engine intake vacuum decreases with load. If the valve was sticky and remained too open at idle, that would effectively be an intake vacuum leak.

Start by checking the intake area for leaks. There could be loose, cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses, or leaks around the throttle body, intake manifold, or IACV (Idle Air Control solenoid Valve) due to bad gaskets or something not sufficiently tightened. Or the IACV itself might be at fault. The misfire codes might be ignition-related, or due to mixture problems from an air leak. P1507 = Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe). It can have the same cause as P0507. However, the trans neutral switch not making good contact is also a known cause of P1507. See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf .

You're welcome. Here's one more: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5EngineValve.pdf Even a ''slightly'' bent valve probably won't fully seal, so it should be possible to find that with compression/leakdown testing Are you saying that the noise is the same with the car running on the lift as it was on the road? Often wheel bearing noises are different when loaded versus unloaded, so if there was no change, what you're hearing may not be a bad wheel bearing. Is the noise related to road speed (change in pitch or level)? Does it vary if you get on and off the gas? If the noise shows up at relatively slow speed, find a deserted parking lot and try driving in tight circles to determine if the noise is different when turning right versus left.

The things that Gary mentioned are worth checking, but if none of those are the cause, these might be interesting: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EngineNoisesInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/KnockingInfo.pdf

Sounds fuel-related, possibly foreign material in a fuel line/filter/tank that moves due to inertia from the quick stop and then obstructs. The fuel pump could tend to keep it there until the engine is shut down. Or not... What happens if you do a quick stop from reverse, rather than a forward gear?

Murphsubaru indicates his location as Ohio, where winters might be harsh enough for ''glue'' to be a concern. Murphsubaru seems to have a '99 Forester (determined from his other posts), so my mention of the recommended viscosity was based on that. I doubt that your gas mileage has much (if anything) to do with running 10W30. My own '99 OB (in which I use 5W30) only gets slightly better mileage than your '97. I don't know if this is true for you, but many of my trips aren't very long (especially in winter), and that will negatively impact mileage for sure. You've probably heard this before, but keeping tires properly inflated (typically a few psi over spec), making sure brakes aren't dragging (corrosion due to road salt can stiffen calipers up a bit), and checking that the front O2 sensor isn't ''lazy'' are some things to consider if mileage is a concern.

That depends on how you define ''harmful'' -- to your wallet, using 10W40 instead of the recommended 5W30 might cause a slight reduction in gas mileage. For modern OHC engines, lower-viscosity oil is usually prefered in order to have the cams/valves lubed as soon as possible after a cold start. Unless engine wear is so bad that 5W30 causes problems, it's probably better to use it. However, unless the temperature is very low, 10W40 isn't likely to be ''harmful'' to the engine. 10W40 is unlikely to cause trouble under most circumstances, but while the engine's bottom end might not have a problem with 20W50, its top end could. Besides, 20W50 would almost definitely hurt gas mileage to a noticeable degree.

Not all 2.5 DOHC engines are created equal. See the last paragraph, left column, page 22 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StepEWAug07.pdf for correct tool numbers versus model year and production phase. See pictures in http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234521 for how some tools don't fit certain DOHC cams.

Need for precise adjustment depends on the whether the TPS incorporates an idle switch or not. The older ones with 4 terminals have the switch, whose contacts should be closed when the throttle is closed, and open when the throttle is barely opened. The newer 3-terminal ones don't include the switch, are more tolerant of the adjustment, but still should output signal voltage within a certain range of operation. See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf for some basic info.

I've been avoiding the aftermarket filters, partially because of a bypass valve concern. I understand the Subaru spec is about 23 psi, while many of the aftermarket ones are lower than that. The Purolator 14460 does have a spec of 20-25 psi -- but Purolator made the white ''OE'' filters a couple of years ago that leaked. The Wix ones I found (supposed to be equivalent) spec the bypass at only 8-11 psi. Go figure.

Until recently, the OE filter for the normally aspirated H4 engines was part # 15208AA100 -- it's small, painted black, and made by Tokyo Roki, whose filters had proven to be reliable. The ''new'' OE filter, part # 15208AA12A, is about the same size as the Tokyo Roki, painted blue, and made by Honeywell (Fram) in Canada. Some people have expressed concern over the construction of the new/blue ones.

The P0400 code indicates an EGR flow problem. Perhaps you were thinking of P0440. There's some good info on P0400 here: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf Some general info on P04xx codes: http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/CodesRevealed.pdf Yes, P0301 and P0302 are indeed misfire codes, for cylinders #1 and #2. Those are wasted-spark-paired, so bad ignition wires, plugs, or even one of the coils in the pack could be the cause.

I can appreciate that cabin moisture can be a problem. However, not recirculating cabin air will definitely cause it to take longer to heat the cabin. Air passing over the heater core will rise in temperature by a certain number of degrees, but what gets blown out at you will be colder if the rise is based on outside air versus already-somewhat-warmed cabin air. Running air conditioning will not contribute to cabin moisture. To the contrary, as long as the cabin air isn't so cold as to prevent water from condensing on the a/c evaporator, moisture will be removed and exit the car (assuming the drain isn't obstructed). Defogging of the windscreen (we call it a 'windshield' on this side of the pond ) is actually accomplished by both the a/c and heater running simultaneously. At least on my own '99, even if cabin recirc is selected, choosing defrost/defog mode bypasses that and uses outdide air. If you determine there's nothing actually wrong with your heater, you may just have to experiment a bit with the controls to determine the usage that best deals with the conditions you have. I find that frequent switching between recirculated heat to the occupants and defogging the windshield is sometimes necessary here, where winters can be quite cold and snowy.

Is it possible you're referring to a 22438 AA031? That would be an ignitor, and if so, you won't be able to start the engine without a working one.

Welcome to the forum. A twin turbo with code 66? - That's the ECU's way of saying ''I don't know exactly what's wrong, but it's bad enough that I'm going into fail-safe mode so that nothing blows up.'' If the thing isn't piped correctly, that itself could be the cause, and probably should be dealt with first. Some people think that corroded ground connections for sensors is another possible reason for the problem. See the following for some clues: http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/356320-fault-code-66-import-legacy-gtb.html http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/celcheck.htm http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107296 http://legacygt.com/forums/printthread.php?t=12994&pp=40

A ''normal'' gauge reading, once warmed up, is typically just a bit less than the mid-point (let's call it 8:45 o'clock). However, if it's taking too long to get there, it might indicate that the thermostat isn't properly closing when cold. The heater core has relatively small passages, so it doesn't take very much to at least partially obstruct them. That could be from particles due to corrosion, mineral deposits, or the use of a ''stop leak'' product that was too agressive. This may seem obvious, but are you setting the heater controls to recirculate the cabin air, rather than bringing in outside air, at least until the engine reaches full operating temperature?

That shouldn't be a problem, but you could call SoA and ask them beforehand -- have your VIN handy. EDIT: Subaru of America, toll-free: 1-800-SUBARU3 (1-800-782-2783) Monday-Thursday 8:30 AM - 7:00 PM Friday 10:30 AM - 5:00 PM

How does the temperature gauge reading progress during the 12 mile trip? At what part of the trip (if at all) does it get ''stable'' (typically about mid-point on the gauge)?

You're welcome. A P1507 code indicates an Idle Control System Malfunction, and puts things in a fail-safe mode. That will definitely affect performance. Before anything else is done, verify that the dealer has checked the transmission neutral position switch operation, since malfunction of that switch is a known cause of P1507. In addition, at 130,000 miles there could be an actual problem with idle control -- it might be that the IACV (Idle Air Control solenoid Valve) needs cleaning, for example. Furthermore, apparently there's a re-flash (reprogramming) for the ECU available if no other problem is causing the P1507. Unless the dealer is providing the ECU at little or no cost, I'd exhaust the other possibilities before paying for a new (likely quite expensive) ECU.

When in gear, if the engine RPM goes up without a related increase in road speed, then the clutch is likely slipping. Depending on your (or any previous owner's) driving style, at 130,000 miles the clutch could easily be worn enough to need replacement (and may have already had that job done one or more times before). On the other hand, if the engine RPM and the car's road speed increase for no apparent reason (causing ''unintended acceleration''), that would be a wholly different (and serious) concern. I'm not aware of a particular relationship between clutch slippage and the ECU, but if the engine is unexpectedly increasing in RPM from another cause, perhaps the dealer is concerned that the ECU might be malfunctioning. The only specific issue I know of with the '01 Legacy ECU relates to a re-flash of it that addresses an EVAP problem. What reason did the dealer give for the ECU needing replacement?

Model/year/mileage/symptom(s) please -- specifically, what made you think the clutch is slipping?