OB99W

Yes. In fact, Subaru refers to torque bind as ''tight corner braking''. Since that doesn't seem to be the symptom described, thinking ''CV'' (as opposed to ''VC'') would probably be appropriate.

Did the dealer inspect the brakes (pads, rotors, etc.)? If not, they should do so before dismissing a grinding noise as ''normal''. If the dealer did inspect the brakes, then they're probably right about rust. Rotors rust readily, and driving a short distance won't eliminate the noise. Rotor surface rust can mostly be removed by braking, but there will be some pitting left behind, and some of the rust will imbed in the pads. Unless the car is driven enough to wear the rotors relatively smooth again, there will be some noise. Is the noise more noticable below a certain speed? Does it change during turns? Is it different when braking versus not braking?

There are a few possible causes. See: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02WinterInsiderInfo.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/FtAdditionalTipsF99.pdf

Congratulations on resolving the problem. Gloyale deserves credit for suggesting the IAC being the culprit, in a reply to your previous thread. See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=807232

I don't know about the Netherlands. However, Vince apparently already has a Spanish-language version out. To be more on-topic, the OEM Subaru part # 15208AA100 is the same ''small'' size that the OP described for the replacement.

I expect that if ''Vince'' isn't sucessful enough with ShamWow and the Slap-Chop/Graty infomercials, he's going to cut up ShamWow material, pack it into the grater, and hawk it as the latest oil filter innovation.

Welcome to the forum. Hopefully we can help. The conditions you've described are indeed likely due to mistiming, possibly by not using the correct alignment marks. The engine in your car is of 'interference' design, and the ''hard turn over points'' could be instances of valves and pistons contacting each other. Unfortunately, that contact is often destructive, resulting in bent valves. In case you've gotten lucky, you might try to redo the timing. The following are some articles that should help: 2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2L, then moves on to 2.5L: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf (last one includes new-style tensioner info)

You didn't say which engine, so it's hard to make comments that would definitely apply. Are you sure what you're hearing is valve noise, and not piston slap? Here are a few links that might be interesting: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EngineNoisesInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LoyalInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/KnockingInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Valve07MayEW.pdf

One approach is to use a ''latching relay circuit''. A standard relay of the correct coil voltage and contacts rated to handle the accessory current will work. A momentary-contact ''trigger'' switch applies power to the relay coil. Once the relay is energized, its contacts parallel the trigger switch so that when the trigger switch is released, power is still applied to the coil. A ''reset'' switch is needed if you want to turn the load off without killing main power. Figure 3 of http://www.eleinmec.com/article.asp?24 shows the basic concept. However, that circuit (which uses a single-pole relay) requires that the trigger switch momentarily handle the load current each time it's used. A lighter-duty triggering switch is sufficient if a double-pole relay is used instead. The first set of contacts would be wired as shown in figure 3, but the second set would only apply power to the load -- that way, the trigger switch only has to handle the relay coil's current.

Unfortunately, it seems that auto trans work isn't a strong point of the shop you went to. If the problem recurs, and the CEL is on again, it might be prudent to have the code read at AutoZone, and get back to us with it.

If you're having trouble reading a PDF file, you'll need to install a PDF reader program. Although Adobe Acrobat Reader is commonly used for the purpose, I prefer Foxit Reader. You can get it for free here: http://www.foxitsoftware.com/pdf/reader/ . The 'switch' is actually a pin on a black six-pin connector (B82) and a grounding wire ('diagnosis terminal'). B82 is under the dash, to the right of the steering column. If it hasn't been used before (or was returned to its original position), B82 and the 'diagnosis terminals' will be taped to the harness. Inserting a diagnosis terminal into position 5 of B82 is how you turn the 'diagnosis switch' on. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=668884 for a diagram of B82 and pin numbering. Don't put it in Park when you turn the ignition off. You can put it in Neutral, with the parking brake on.

The wasted spark cylinder pairings are #1/#2 and #3/#4. If the plug for #1 were affecting another cylinder, it would be cylinder #2, not #3. Actually, the ECU does an effective functional test of the EGR valve by determining the result of its operation. See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf , specifically the P0400 info. EGR flow control can be roughly tested without too much difficulty. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the EGR valve, and plug the hose. Attach another length of vacuum hose to the EGR valve -- with the engine warm and idling, apply a few inches of vacuum to the hose (either with a small hand pump or even via sucking by mouth on the end of the hose). You should see the valve pintle move, and the idle should significantly falter if the passages aren't blocked. If the valve moves but the idle doesn't obviously change, either the valve was already stuck partially open, or passages are obstructed.

1) Who told you that? How was the conclusion come to? If by getting codes read, we need the codes to better determine what you're dealing with. 2) It's highly unlikely that so many solenoids are bad. It's much more likely that a connector isn't fully engaged, or that vermin have chewed through wires. If that's what actually happened, there may be no bad solenoids.

You're welcome. See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABSInsiderEWFall05.pdf .

You apparently have GAS. It is primarily known to afflict musicians and photographers, but seems to be spreading to other segments of the population. Google 'Gear Acquisition Syndrome' for further information.

ABS code 11 is the 'Hi there, I'm talking to you' code . If there's no other code following the 11, then the ABS diagnostics isn't seeing any problem. Look under the dash, to the right of the steering column, for a black connector. It will be a six-position one, although not all of the positions may be pinned out. The particular connector (B82) is used for diagnostics, and grounding certain pins puts particular circuits into test modes. See if there's a black wire 'diagnosis terminal' stuck in one (or two) of the positions, and if so pull it/them out. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=668884 for a diagram of B82 and the 'diagnosis terminals'. If that doesn't stop the running of the ABS pump motor, it's possible that the relay might be sticking (a common problem).

If the TCU code is 77, the OBD-II code should be P0743. On the other hand, if the OBD-II code turns out to be P0778, that corresponds to TCU code 76. Either way, the job is about the same. The shop needs to start with testing external to the trans. Simple resistance checks can determine if there's a wiring or connector problem (open or short circuit), as well as if the particular solenoid appears to have an out-of-tolerance resistance reading (again, possibly open or full/partial short). If the solenoid resistance reading is wrong, it will require going inside the trans to further verify the problem, and most likely change the solenoid. If the wiring, connectors and solenoid seem to be okay as determined by external testing, there's a procedure to determine if the TCU itself is causing the problem. I hope that gives you enough 'ammo'.

I suggest you first determine why the CEL is on. It may just be an OBD-II code for the same thing as the TCU one (76 or 77) -- if it is, knowing that code will determine for certain if the TCU is flashing 76 or 77. If not, it could provide a clue as to what else might be happening. If you have one of the larger automotive stores nearby (AutoZone, Advance, etc.), they often will read the code at no charge. Let us know what it is -- Pxxxx, not the code definition, please.

Start here: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102006_09.pdf

Should be about 3 ohms. OL stands for 'OverLoad', and usually indicates an open circuit when the meter is on a resistance range. If that's what your meter reads when the leads aren't connected when measuring ohms, then that solenoid coil is apparently open. However, it would correspond to an AT code of 75, not 76. Assuming that's 3.1 ohms, it's a normal reading (has same resistance spec as for the Line Pressure Duty Solenoid). Since the ATF Temp Sensor changes resistance with temperature, the reading will naturally depend on temperature. However, 12.6 ohms seems way too low. Perhaps you measured something else, or you didn't include a resistance scale multiplier in what you reported. Can you recheck the temp sensor resistance? The rest of the readings are within tolerance.

Good work. If the engine can be cranked, I'd suggest checking dry compression on all the cylinders. If any cylinders are low, do a wet test as well. That will give you a basic idea of condition. You might also consider cylinder leak-down testing.

Agreed, as I suggested in my post #3 in this thread when I said 'Also consider the possibility that the plug was previously fouling, and there might be other problems'.

Myhilo, please start a separate thread for the above. It has nothing to do with the topic being discussed in this one. I'd gladly reply to you, but I don't want to clutter this thread. Perhaps a moderator can do this. Thanks.

Turn counterclockwise (just like you'd remove a spark plug). Since there's probably not enough clearance to get a socket on it, you could try a screw extractor, which should grip from the inside -- be sure to get one that's the right size. (Use Google if you're not familiar with what a 'screw extractor' is.)

Looks to me like a spark plug antifouler. I wouldn't automatically assume that the threads in the head are damaged, although it is possible. You might be able to soak the area with PB Blaster (or your favorite "buster"), let it sit for a while, and use a properly-sized screw extractor to remove the thing. Just be careful, because you certainly don't want to make things worse. Also consider the possibility that the plug was previously fouling, and there might be other problems.