electryc_monk

okay here is the (link below) job Calbz and I did at his Casa a couple months ago. http://groups.msn.com/USMB/shoebox.msnw http://groups.msn.com/USMB/electrycmonk.msnw here is the specific image with regard to the front brake lines. http://groups.msn.com/USMB/electrycmonk.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=956 AND as its the drivers side, look for the metal tab that protrudes forward of the strut (at its base) where it connects to the Hub assembly. This has a simple "C" clip that holds the brake line close to the strut for "Safety" reasons. Admittedly its not OEM safe with the liftkit, it is however Very safely tucked away from the strut and tire as i only needed to very conservatively bend it for the needed flexing room. I had to (a while back) install a *newer* air strut and so to do it without taking the caliper off the hub and disconnecting the brake line and then having to deal with the "joy that is bleeding the brakes" - I ussed some "good quality" Tin-snips and cut the side of the tab and then bent it down. This allowed the brake line to be slid out of the tab of metal. Then i bent the metal tab back up and this kept the chances of accidental scraping the brake line to near zero from that piece of metal i just cut. there, that clear enough? (worried i just babbled too far) ***NOW about the rear brakes.... it's easier to deal with. There is this -10mm? shallow bolt that holds the metal brake line to the main suspension crossbar (round tube) as you lower the rear section it will be obvious what bolts I am refering too. NOW before you lower it too far a few inches(2-4) we also realized that the fuel line has a nice hidden shallow bolt to deal with too. Between the tank and the fuel pump hidden (up under the passenger rear seat) is a small section of metal fuel line with rubber section to the tank and on the other side of the main round tube it will have a rubber hose going to the fuel pump. (dork me can't recolect if this was a note in the install manual or not) anyways. The fuel pump vibration plate bolts and this top bolt on the "inbetween metal pipe" need to be removed before you go anyfurther.... that way no fuel accidentally gets spilled from a oops with it. :>) hows that folks? TMI?

THIS! Is what I was meaning in that PM i just sent you. (sheepish grin) I misspelled what the brain was thinking about AND found one of the pages still intack in a google search. http://www.sdsefi.com/air11.html The one I specifically refered to in PM no longer shows up in the cashed google search though. at least there is one though.

Dude, this is the spec's of the unit your looking at : Oil Cooler • New HAYDEN. Oil cooler for hydraulic systems, engine or transmission coolers, etc. Copper tubes with aluminum fins. 3/4" diam. cooling tubes. SPECIFICATIONS • GPM 6 • PSI 300 • 350° F • Ports 1/2" NPT • Cooling fin area 12" x 3" x 4" • Overall size 16 1/4" x 4" x 5 3/4" • Shpg. 7 lbs. **I'm worried that with the GPM6 equals 6 Galloons Per Minute Which makes me wonder What this will do to the Oil PSI? Am I just being too cautius?

A person "convinced" against their will, is of the "same opinion" Still. Just a soft reminder reminder brought to you by 'saturday morning cartoons, and 'School House Rock!'.

heheheh OR you might look at the place i have now... granted it was a temperary fix but, I was wondering about sticking it there as I too have removed the "ashtray" hmmmmmm maybe I'll put a simple plate down there and then drill a single hole for the starter-interupt too. http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/cd6-27.jpg or this view of the same http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/cd6-24.jpg

40 in a school zone? around the schools here that would be double the posted speedlimit as our schools like the 20MPH signs. yes see about counceling for the child and I'd be asking the police about the recless endangerment in a school zone for sure!

your refering to the CNG or Propane kit? (smirks to self) "Wow a 1994 Brat, wonder how much dsign change has happened for this car?" http://www.altfuels.com/ http://www.afdc.nrel.gov/ http://www.alternatefuels.com/ and those came from this search: http://www.google.com/search?q=Alternate+fuel+vehicle&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&start=50&sa=N

BN and SF Railways have a LNG coverted diesel locomotive system in full use. Many companies world wide are designing bio-diesel or bi-fuel deisel engines systems. That being a diesel engine converted to run some persentage of diesel and the rest either Propane,CNG, LNG, LPG, or some other blend. there are Net communities that i have book marked somewhere that are very strong backing in the R&D of LEV and ELEV (Low Emissions Vehicles and Extremely LOw E. V.'s) sooo yeah its sooty and yes it is bad but, isn't there a difference between the blends and refining processes of diesels now and those of old? I believe that there is even a bit of higher level refinement done in Europe (due to the death of the Black forest et al) that made a manditory sulphur reduction to something less then half the US diesel sulphur emission levels of today.... so how (firstly) wrong am I and how wrong might though be? anyone else????

remembered hearing of a subie dude doing research in machining an EA81 for diesel reconstruction. did some google tunneling... rear "somewhere" - don't remember where - that there was something in South Africa being done. dug some more. Found a few Subaru sites in S.A. and actually got a couple legit replies from these Subaru businesses. One in particular replied with logical curiousity. I replied with a more indepth explination of what i was doing (kinda leaned alittle on the truth) as i was using my university ID and saying that I was considering it as a MAsters project in a physics program. This one place said it was an admirable idea and was very interested in the idea cosidering the specifics i had spit out for them. most of this stuf was from the stuff I had found on the net that others had "talked about back then". the below section are the only parts I vocalized as what "I" was looking into and leaning towards. RE: thicker sleeves and possibly studs into the sleeves themselves for support of the high CR and keeping a modest turbo from the RHB5 design or something similar. Conservative estimates of a 1.6 design was expressed aat which point the reply was ... keep in touch Because we may be trading notes if we find time to play with the idea down here. well sad to say i lost their email ID as that PC died last year and took the HD with it. and, that is all i can remember to this idea/thread/design/et al.

the turbo out is esentially 2.5 from the O2 sensor back... when things "Calm down" and I can spend time with Ed out at his barn then the turbo adapter plate will have the O2 sensor nipple and EGT nipple welded to its neck... And so you already know, the 3-way cat is actually in the place of the original 2nd cat from its OEM days. The muffler is a 2.5 in and out as well.... some off brand of the turbosonic design its a striaght thru style but truthfully - we tested it in the muffler shop with stratpipe and then with the muffler installed. the only difference was at speed the muffler takes "the edge off the sounds" and allows a Very quiet ride. The Smog test was very productive too. I was quite happy with it.

two suggestions.... 1st: while holding the middle of the unit and sitting down spread the unsprung fabric across the table so the end of the fabric is away from you. b.) holding the middle roll it up about 4 or 5 full turns c.) then while still holding the middle turn the left side towards you as its being pushed towards the middle d.) repeat for the right side spring cap unit e.) while still holding the middle spin it either almost or all the way up at this point. f.) repeat step b. and c. then it should be fully sprung tight. *side note* IF that doesn't work out then do the idea backwards and the unit will actually hold itself coiled 2nd: similar idea just more complicated having the cover partially installed with one cap pushed into its normal space in the wall b.) while pushing towards the cars body on the backdeck cover unit AND holding onto the other endcap you start to spool up the covers spring system. c.)once the cover was installd you should notice a marked resistence higher when unscrolling the back deck of the wagon then you have the "Factory" level of more of friction here in denton . The health codes are not pretty but, welll yeah. braintoasted night night

well, i do have a service manual for the EA81'a automatic tranny but.... currently though this manual IS in someone elses possesion for HE/She is/Are scanning it and a few other manuals I own for the electronic database we are working on for all USMB members. soooooo. it might not be that early but i think it is. as its not for the 4EAT that for sure. and guys... Calabz and Okami.... i think i came up with an idea.......

we will have Okami's Cell phone with us tomorrow soooooooo... i hope to post it here or PM you with it tomorrow before we go... not sure where the piece of paper is at the moment other wise i'd PM you right now.

Calebz ... Okami's answering mashine isn't picking up and well they call it a night at 11 soooooo i guess something is up. Or they may have unplugged the phone for a night to themselves? (mischivious grin) honestly i haven't a clue but its cute to consider at least.

look for the vacuum or electrical lines (?) which is it guys? I've not yet played with the push button 4WD.

here is what I did to allow for a nice CD stereo setup. sorry but yahoo doesn't like it when i try to link a picture so goto my page here: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/Headunit_mod.html but if your not to fond of the kit design welllll... (shoulders shrug) there is always the legacy trim kit and spending some time plastic cut-sanding the kit to fit.... but hey its only time right.

Okami and I at the least..... now to call you (Calebz).... T & T to be determinded (pun inforced and running for cover)

That is supposed to say Okami not I'm.... sheeeesh 591-9996

I dare believe that those who took part in and fueled the seriously nice thread about 8-9 months ago migh be able to shed some light on my curiousity. "Reader's Digest" regurgitation follows: Someone started a thread on "what would be the interest in helping achieve this idea into reality" Getting the stamps and die's for starting or rather resurecting the early to late 80's subaru's via Russian automobile manufacturing. Then it jumped to Focusing on the Brat's and the military application with a off the factory line lift kit (i think?) the logic was its a line that has "mostly all the bug's" worked out of it and what mod's could be done to allow for the Mod's we all know of that have been done to the beloved pleadian's we drive.... then it tangeted(i think) to a gov't contract idea for just the brat s and then being able to find a place in the US for its resurection and cheap way to get New parts for us..... then it was chimbed in by a N.H. or Connecticutt(sp) soul who said if Russia doesn't work out what about our home team as the Ship yards up here have taken a big hit and well, if a gov't contract for a ORV (read like the chenoworth sand rail idea) were to be built on the BRat design... several uber mech-heads were commenting back -n- forth here.... Then the update near the end of the threasd was "I'm abouyt to go pitch the idea overseas" then the thread of the idea for a switch to V-bulliten happened and this thead dissapeared..... Well, anyone wanna update, or more for starters clarify anything i miss-construded or did not remeber correctly?

errm, this saturday. Okami is going to the Dallas Junkyards, I ask if i could go and he said sure... I'm gonna get a rear disk set for the Brat. Hey Calebz, you wanna go on saturday? We might even get a chance to se TiminTexas (the newbie to the board as well) (i oops and missed touching base with him this weekend) anyone else lurking wanna do this? I can be found easily... you know what to do.

if you'll overlook the geeky computer phrase above its litterally a screwdriver only swap. The wire connector for the 6 disc unit is the EXACT same. you'll have FAR Less need for imagination then i did for this: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/Headunit_mod.html nuff said? Cool. Goforth and play well with others. :wave:

now that its a manual S/R 5 spd I'll bet he wants a Manual.

these are the clean versions. Same slut different dress same stuff different day yes on the bohica -in face i knew of a (then local to the base i was on) group of marines that made their jerseys for the softball team name as Bohica's. hehehe and the MSDS I'm surprised you never heard of : My-Stuff-Doesn't-Stink or its real world name Maintance Safety Data Sheet Dad showed me a "book" before he retired (Air force standardisation (DOD logistics in the end)) this was the glossary of all known offical acronyms of all the armed services and DOD size was something like 11 inches by 14+ inches and almost 3 inches thick. standard printer font.

well fellow uncle sams kid (I'm ex-navy airdale AKA rotorhead at that) I dare bet that you know of the following ones then? B.o.h.i.c.a. s.s.d.d. m.s.d.s. <-- often refering to newbie 0-2 or 0-3's not the legit use of it.

now that that pesky w32 nachi virus is dead i ummmm see a person looking for advice. I also see alot of excellent advice on the ease and cost of the conversion. I have heard many of them do it and seem rather painless to do, I however admit to enjoying the ride of the air system. and the lifted one is riding just fine too. if your curious i just least night did a search on http://www.car-parts.com for air struts and found the North Carolina salvage yeard that i have delt with in the past has rears but there are others out there too. It's not that riusky either as every yard i have delt with over the last ummmm 7 or 8 years via the net has been very good about replacement if its fubar in a time window thats reasonable etc. personally the air ride is easy to deal with if you have the FSM and some time on your hands. just out of curiousity is the front adjusting when you push in the high to low button? or does it seem to sit "really high?" I'd suggest trying this experiment with ignition off for starters. 1. remove the fuse for height 15A 2. 12mm wrench on the air nut on top of the front struts. *** loosen till you start to hear air rush out but not all the way, occasionally the lil o-ring under the nut/cap have flown out and hit the ground on me so let them sorta seep out the first time till you see the hose and o-ring - okay? 3. once the front two are flat out, snug them back down...not too tight mind you "reefing down doesn't help here". put a jack at the rear lifting points and lift it up about 3-5 inches approx from its full flat position. (this is approx. enough for the height control CPU to see that they are "low" and need to be leveled out. spray the airlines down with some water or soapy water prefered to see if it is leaking at the solinoids. The rears have these two plastic nuts that can be unscrewed or yanked out and a 10mm(?) nut that is to the rear of the strut and that allows easy sight of the rear solinoid for inspection. 4. put fuse back in and turn ignition to full on(dash lights up and all) just don't startt the car.. not necessary. compressor should start right up or in a few second it will activate. 5. listen for the 4 seperate struts solinoids to cycle on and off. you'll wanna have the radio off in the garage to hear them all from anyone of the different wheelwells. 6. if the rear does start to inflate it will raise it completely off the jack and it may take about 2-3 minutes to acomplish this. 7**lucky number 7. IF any of the airlines seem to be leaking there are a few things that can be done to fix the leak and its a rather simple/no brainer. after turning it all off and jacking that particular side all the way up (for the elbow room and visibilty of the job to be..... use a small screw driver and your fingers to slowly and softly pry the 4 plastic clips away from the shelfed edge washer sealing ring and that will allow you to easy it out from them..... the o-ring on the blackish colored airline has a retaining ring so you don't have to worry about it for the rears like you do on the fronts. after removal use a qtip(i like it) and some alcohol or spray some brakeparts cleaner on the swap and wipe out the chromed area that the oring would seal against. then do the same with the o-ring on the hose... but with a soapy water instead... save the o-ring from the chemicals !!! then try to put a VERY LIGHT coat of silicon on the o-ring only and not the whit-ish plastic clip tube. Then reinstall the hose in the solinoid. i'd spin it a little once in the clips and then leave it alone and lower that side back down to that 3-5 inch above flat postion again and.....go turn on the ignition. that should be enougfh of a head start to give you a better feeling of the system..... good luck and K.I.T. -steve in Denton, Tx AKA electryc_monk http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk or the USMB msn photo's page under electryc monk for the lifted photo's