electryc_monk

curious... makes me wonder IF its a odd name for the fuel pressure unit when the pump goes to higher PSI when you floor it????? ..or maybe its just part of the wiring to be cheaper at streamling the assembly line with a "single wirring system and only installing *needed* adapters as the model requires....

my email was for the same demise and that was this AM too. i asked in the email about the engine for pictures, what the cost of it was if it could of been registered in the states :>) if it was a TD or not.... if not then it could easily be done :cool: and so I'm thinking of calling them just on principle tomorrow about them.

why not I've delt with them resently maybe they'll be ever better for you? eh who knows.

if your gonna do that buy the RV "battery isolator" for like 30-40 at any auto parts place that sells snowplow parts or RV shops or (pepboys as i resently ran across one down here.) :>) that way you can have your crank and eat it too!

hmmm . wild hair moment for consideration. Does the body and frame of the turbo car have(ignoring the front damaged area) a more solid setup or does the N/A car have the "less rusty/ cleaner, longer life expectancy" body and frame setup? If you answer the turbo dos then the first thing I'd do is get that car up on stands and prep it for a 4WD swap over that way the engine and ECU and its wiring and turbo plumbing and vacuum lines ALL are ready to go (side not the PSI of the turbo fuel pump is significantly hgier then the N/A FI system). The swapping of the 4WD subframe with the help of a friend or two is honestly a weekend or less project.... especially IF you have access to or own a FSM (Factory service manual). you could do a direct swap of the tranny back of the driveline and it really isn't all that "difficult, just requires patients and a few other things like space, time and a few willing accomplicies. now about the idea of the shafts... there are TWO different halfshaft designs... there is a 3 RIBBED and a 2 RIBBED design . That being said the actual shaft has either 2 or three ribbs on it (usually on the wheel side). the 2 ribs is the 23 splineor 25 spline at 116mm diameter (inside the mouth of the female end(that which slips onto the tranny) called part number AU85 i wanna say.... the 3 ribs are the AU95 and only 25 spines as they are the 130mm inside diameter of the female end of the halfshaft [this was a seriously frustration time for me with autozone as we had to order then measure after the first fiasco and then the second one didn't measure right but, third timesa a charm sooo the part number 7310 is the AU95 which is the 25 spline large diameter halfshaft for the 4EAT tranny :>) useful trivia for anyone if they so choose... but i'd wanna go reverify before you go off and order a set off this info as the numbers may be swapped in my head.....

For Mom's '69 charger hehehehoh is she happy now! 5 3/4 Hella H4 design lamps set of 2 for 39 plus shipping over the bay of E-ness. Granted her "baby" is still the 4 light system I did a silly thing for her, I left the wiring set up for the old high beams in tact as these units came as a 2 light setup (each is a Hi\lo) so the Hellas are the lows and when she hits the high button all fore lights are on hehehe she Liiikes it. I have seen the 4 set of Hellas (with 55W lows and 65W highs go for $100 plus shipping over the summer but i don't see any right now on ebay... but the pairs are out there for a cost reference. I personally swear by Bosch fog and Hella fog lamps. and have for over 12 years. With all the night driving I did/do they have ALL pair forthemselves repeatedly beyond recall. Shoot one night i kept track going home from work after installing the rack system under the bumper.... the $52 fog set and the $65 set of offroad driving lights paid for themselves by showing off : 8 deer four pheasants 2 fox a big turtle 12 cats (Atleast) a few coyotes 7 or 8 farm dogs (a few got used to me and my latenight flybye too) over a dozen 'coons and a few squirrels several Opossum ...and that was just that one night alone. sorry for the tangent. just realize one thing about the eruro design they have THICK glass that sticks out further then your stock ones do so just be awareof this... as in the Chargers case I had to swap the location of the lowbeams because of this thinkness (the vacuum actuated covers wouldn't fully open or close due to catching on the thick lenses of the Hellas' Go for it!

not sure gotta go consult the note pad and check the car over to see..... been a while since i checked the radiator level in the silver one.

the all silvery pain on all the body parts looks as slick as can be right? and had the vertical "Burnt red" (in my monitors) stripes under the rear passenger doors only? if this is the one then yup they are around here too.

the folks that have the subaru EA82 gasket sets have a sight and i ordered the "head set" for replaceing a set of heads on a turbo. the kit cost $88. total with shipping. I installed the set. discovered a leaky exhaust or so I thought. Called them and asked how good their parts warrantty is as when i took the head off the gasket seperated in two areas. They said without seeing it and the fact that I had the engine running a maximum of 6-8 minutes total that they wouldn't make a call on it until they had a chance to look at it. A week later I recieved an email with an appalogy and an offer to crdit my card or send a new one in its place... i of course took the new one and installed it. Well its in a nice and slick but, we narrowd the leak down to a crack somewhere in the block :>( brand of stuff some is felpro and Apex in California here's their site: gasket folks

Minimum standards for the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) of your battery hunt is 625amps *** IF your wanting to make sure you can start it with all that stuff eatin' up the juice.

there are two dia sizes that I'm aware of with respect to round headlights. 5 3/4 inch and 7 inch i vaguely remember seeing something about a 6+ size too but thats not even a fuzzy thought its more of a "why do i think i remember that size?" prime example here : 5 3/4 sized hal. lights these are a set of 7" diameter lights (disclaimer: I have no Idea the sellers are, just uesd for size picture references)

Did you mean the "castlenut" that goes on the end of the halfshaft keeps coming undone? I'd be worried that the flat washer and cut tappered spacer may be missing or improperly in use or maybe not even there anymore? IF the rear gives you such worry - look at them closely they may actually be "semi-adjustable" after all there are a few different spring rear shock sets out there and they have a sort-of diling in ability. IF that makes sense to ya? Kinda like its got a,b,c, and d settings which height do you want kinda thing. My first (86)GL 4WD wagon had either 3 or 4 settings on the origional rears. Now as for the wheels in all directions comment, makes me wonder are the tires all balanced correctly? wonder if the front steering arms and knuckles look like they have been adjusted at all and maybe they could be "deftly" or at least sighted by you with the car on jacks to see if you can "toe it in or out" as necessary to test the front ends allignment....... with what others have said , is that enough to go from for starters there big guy? and before i forget... welcome to the neighborhood.

okay so my mouth got in the way again. the top of the radiator should be the same width all the way across. about 1.5 inches wide = 2 core radiator if its not the same width the entire length of the top of the radiator then its a single core. This visualization can be done without a single tool. Other then your brain. and thats all i can offer dude.

well the thing that thru me for a "wow" was I also have never "Seen" or heard of a "jeep" that was diesel. have you?

speaking of Jeeps here's something rather Link for a RHD Diesel Stick 4WD 1996 JEEP! Funny thinis its in PA. and I tryed to email the addy but their mailbox is full so much for finding out the details on these oddities... like this one here hows that for oddity?! On a subie note... IF I had the $300 I'd buy it straight up.

the front center top of the radiator will have a slight inward "u" occur about in the middle of the top. That is a single core rad. The two core is the same thickness all the way across.

well what are the signs of engine abuse? does it look "Too clean" or is it showing any signs of overheated engine what's the mileage and whats the rust factor? aside from that... 300 sign unseen I'd be hard prssed to throw 300 at it... pictures whould vastly change my estimate....but the masters around here could "taste the dirt" and tell you if the weather was gonna give you a tornado or not.

anyone care to add speculation on part cross-over-abilities here? If a given clutch "kit" were the same Diameter as say the Turbo clutch kit for the EA82 and happen to have the same spline count(I'm guessing here) as it's not stated soooo..... hereis the link that made me think of this as we like to use starion Intercoolers for the turbo's here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33730&item=2430370362

I've never heard of it. In the New Forresters and such... over seas get the D/R tranny so I'd dangerously (if easily) assume its a D/R AWD system. Granted this would only fit the EJ engine series and the 3.0H6's as well. But hey thats just my wacked out version of common sense thinking anywho...

uhhh Nope. the D/R is sitting pretty happy in the lifted TurboWagon AKA Silver D/R'agon

ummm at the risk of pun incroachment. What rides shotgun? I know it'd take a serious pair to drive this MFP Interceptor!

currently siting quietly is a FT4WD 5 spd with vacuum actuated Locking rear diff and its a 3.90 ratio.

relays relays..... well, taking off the lower two large pieces of plastic under the steering wheel will allow for access to the relays I'm aware of. there are some 4 to 8 relays up under there ALL of them are on the left side of the steering wheel shaft, they also all seem to be the round steel design with the diagram printed on the metal. There are 2-4 that are "C clipped" onto the top side of the ECU (engine control computer with 3 bolts attaching it to the steering frame.) Remove those three bolts and getting to these relays will be less hassle. The other 4 or 6 relays are up above the fuse block - and I do mean UP, they too are held in with those same designed "C clips" for snap out and pull down of the relay and the wiring to see them easily out in the open air dangling for ease of swapping the relays. Here's a time testing trick of the relays as they are all the same design. At least one of these relays is for the A/C system so if you have the A/C on while unpluging the relays one at a time you'll find out which one(or more) they are and can then then stick those relays into the *STILL EMPTY A/C socket for proving those relays work and that way your not climbout back up and looking to "SEE if the lights are on or not". care to try that?

Um hey, JonOfScio, The tranny from the XT6 is an EA series tranny, not the EJ series. WJM - does the tranny mounting area look alot like thiese on this page? (I'm thinking it should be identical) http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/just-the-sube-pt_2.html These pictures are specifically what I'm refering too but, realize these bottom two are of the car they were removed from hense the masive michigan cancer: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/GL-10-pre-D-R.jpg http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/D-R-before-2.jpg http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/D-R-before-removal.jpg

this may sound redundent perhaps lame but, have you checked all your ground wires for good clean contact? I believe there are 3 or 4 alone in the engine bay. Curious question(s): Have you swapped the headlamps to see what that might do? What do the connectors look like for the left side vs. the other for corrosion? How rusty is this car?