electryc_monk

What is the reasoning for placement of the MAF before the turbo? I just had a wild hairbrained thought! And really and truthfully wonderd about the systemic problems that might or might not be of issue by placing the MAF at the mouth of the intake AFTER the turbo (and once installed also after the IC)????? Well folks any thing I'm not realizing with respect to air fuel ratio and the like? Considering the ECU is running off the thermal reading in the air (if its a hotwire version that is) and if its getting the data from after the turbo then wouldn't the reading be more accurate then before the turbo given the temperature differential? Could the system be simply set to WOT fore less scripting in the ROM chip for the EFI computer? And if the movement of the MAF to after the turbo (and IC) wouldn't this also allow for a interesting place for it considering the more versitility of an intake to the turbo from who knows where at this point? Or am i just utterly forgetting a very important factor of internal combustion system dynamics?

we all find a way of getting the "ride" primed and prep'ed for THEE photo shoot be it a timely weather wonder shot or a posed on on the side of a jeep or pulling a full sized ford outta the ditch or you get the idea..... maybe a gathering foto for the summer months, then we set it up as a either monthly with 2 or 3 car's on it OR a bi-monthly calander design that way there are at least 24 subies on the paper? (Models never hurt either!)

if thats just a price for the labor and well, you have to pony up the parts for him to install and probably the gaskets too..... unless "he's doing you an honourable favor" in good standing kinda thing.... who knows, but get it in writting.

I'm glad you found it, and could get her. I really am. I may not see it in person but, I am glad someone found it and was able to give it a good home. IF i ever get back out to Cali or the left ocast I'll be hoping to meet up with all you lucky guys.

I am so glad to hear your alright ... after seeing the news about the so-cal firewall and the satilities viewsof the air qauilty issues..... sheesh.... how did the family fair in the night of fire??? get any sleep (i hope so).... get some for yourself too when you get a chanse as well. you deserve it!

wow i like the dash. :>) and that flatblack on the aluminum rims is actually kinda neat.... (can't believe i actually like that look of the rims)

those are our http://www.ausubaru.com budies from the BYB forum too i do believe....

another 7W33k3R in north Texas! yes do send pictures to the board folder in your name... or email me some..... too

there is always the JB weld method. Clean out the hole the metal sleve goes in. on the workbench unscrew the sleeve from the bolt. dab some mix on the outside of the sleeve and then stick it in the cleaned out plastic holes. let it set as they recomend and then scre the covers back on just don't (grin) reef down on them this time :cool:

and you can take the idea and do what youwish with it soo... bought a simple set of punches from Craftsman cost like 7-8 bucks. There are three that really make it smooth. The big round one with the pencil like tip is used for reinstalling them. The one of similar size and the tiny ones (both of these are flat faces AKA no points) First off i go at it from under neath (more elbow room) 2nd is I find the side that has the concave mouth - found it ? good. 3nd goto the opposite side of the DOJ (hub) and use the punch and hammer to easily tap them out. 4th specificaly the angle i use *initally* with the tiny punch is as steep of an angle as I can safetly go and sorta have the punch slide against the inner wall of the hole as it slowly shoves the pins out the other side. Once its just barely started then i use the biger one to hit it nearly straight on untill its stopped up against the mouth of the DOJ (hub). then use the tiny one again for those last few taps and its out and off comes the hub. i have tried both the hub replaced on the tranny without the pin briefly started and without... I have somany times gotten it just one spline off that I quite intially setting the pin in the hub UNTIL i get the hub and the tranny splines lined up and then i do a couple taps to set it in the hub. Once in the hub the hardest part for me has been the "hold the hub against the tranny" while tapping the pin in at the sametime.... without the hub sliding away"just enough" to not let the pin go thru the tranny stub. there hows that work for ya?

What is the reasoning for placement of the MAF before the turbo? I just had a wild hairbrained thought! And really and truthfully wonderd about the systemic problems that might or might not be of issue by placing the MAF at the mouth of the intake AFTER the turbo (and once installed also after the IC)????? Well folks any thing I'm not realizing with respect to air fuel ration and the like? Considering the ECU is running off the thirmal reading in the air and if its getting the data from after the turbo then wouldn't the reading be more accurate then before the turbo given the temperature differential? Or am i just uttery forgetting a very important factor in internal combustion system dynamics?

um okay... consider it "in work" as of tomorrow.

in (SCC)Sport Compact Car magazine in late auguest or early september... I don't remember which months it was but, they had a major write up on an aftermarket Air ride system that had manually "adjustible solinoids for serious finite control of PSI for each wheel. never said the cost of course but gave a website and i have since lost it... am still trying to locate it via google currently.... well i gave a good search and came up dry so far.... it was a sweeeet system and its install was stout and simple, two dial gauges with dual needles (red needle for rear, black one for front strut. they showed the system thru the install and then at lostest safe PSI and then max PSI setting .... VERY SWEET indeed.

the carrier barring is more for keeping the shaft higher off the ground for a longer distance that way the actual amount of rear drive shaft exposed to ground contact (AKA high centering - i think this is the term) doesn't increase the chances of a bent drive shaft. The next thought is that with four basicly different body styles you would possibly of had 4 different drive shaft lengths. (SO I'm just shootin' the breeze here) If the company wanted to streamline assembly costs then the first half up to the carrier barring would be the same for all cars. Next is that they could have say two or maybe 3 short shaft extensions that are different allowing for a lower cost for assembly of this section of driveshaft in the order of "1000's".... who knows.... But i did find that a sedan shaft from a 88 was a little to short for the 86 i had - then i found out that the 88 shaft was for an auto tranny yeah I was ahhh admitting oops on that one when that happened. LOL so there it sits up in michigan for as far as i'm aware still in the rafters of the barn....

the Air ride that is... (I'm temporarily stalled on a manual over ride curcuit board mod to the controller under the seat) but its comfy and handles a jump quite nicely too. but your probably more looking at the sweetness that is ranchero. We had them on the Sandrail that was Corvair powered when i was in high school and Uncle Dave's 70 Dodge Power Wagon with a modest lift (can't remember if it was body or not) the ride was very nice with the 33 inchers BFG's on it too. I have heard a few voices about the benefits of a KYB setup, with adjustable spring compression and all that but hey I have no idea the models of said parts either.

... a SPST switch thru the two wires in the "auto tranny's selector switch" That thing that you two are talking about in the center console under the actual shifter arm that you move thru P-R-N-D-D1. Under it is this "selector switch thingy" that has the "inhibitor switch as part of its internals" There are some (I'm guessing here) 12 or so wires in the 2 row clip. Does that make sense? I'd cut the two wires that allow juice to flow from the hot wire thru to the starter (in either P or N) and then cut that wire and splice in some equally heavy guage wires and there is your manual "Starter interupt switch" . if you want I can go look to see the color of those wires and reprt back. either tonight or tomorrow.

(were not worthy) Brian the Uber-ru g33K

each rear strut has 2 seperate wire plugs..... the 2 pin plug is the activation of the solinoid the 4 pin plug is the multi-relay sensor connector (They tend to be in the little cavity between the metal frame and the plastic internal skin just in front of the rear seat top clippping area) there is enough wire slack to ease them both up and out to the edge of the plastic cabin molding for a "fast disconnect." Dis connect the solinoid first and then the bigger clip. if its not easy enough for you to get at from the back seat area with the seats folded down then crawl in thru the trunk :>) the rubber grommet that seals these wires and airline is VERY easy to reinstall if you end up popping it out of the fenderwell for the dissconnect. just (reasuring grin) don't forget to slip it back in. hehehe

as always the best of luck try to consider waiting till the last possible moment before swapping the brake calipers so that the least amount of fluid is lost in the swap and less time will be spent purging the system of air and any accidental particulate matter. well the only reason I was wondering about the turbo is its already got all the wiring in place and if there wasn't a rust issue with it and the body was in safe condition then swap all the best stuff into it. swap the carpet and seats, swap the dash parts if you want by all means swap the 4WD setup.... its all in perspective the swaping will best be down as a undercar first idea (just my experience) that way all the heavy/hard mounted stuff is done and the less stamina necessary stuff like calipers and disks and seats and doylies et al can be done when you lower on energy and can work with an extension cord and a flood lamp as it would then be too dark to install a (insert here) okay enough babbling have fun dude. I still find stuff that is hidden from the average pair of eyes so its not all slim pickens area here just yet. :>)

well know that i'm settled in as a fre user i can see the chopshot look in the pictures.... if only the picture "begging for a caption would load....sheeesh.

The D/R is short hand for Dual Range 4WD tranny you can be in FWD,4WD hi, or 4WD Low 3.9 ratios and the weight is it in an RX is unknown to me but I'll wagger its the same weight as the "normal D/R like I have in the Silver D/R'agon. Went to find the service manual for weights and ..... low and behold - I forgot that the Scan-master has those books of mine :>) He is scanning the entire series of FSM's and a few other books I sent him too. Heartless tryed to do some but then her work kinda took precidence... which is completely understandible.... meanwhile I believe he's still plugging away at the scanning job... (tangent) too bad we don't have a few more folks who have scanners and would mind helping out... I'm not sure but i think Skip also suppled some manuals for someone else todo some canning work on too.... but those of us in the sub committee havent seen any emails in a good month or so... not that I'm worried just realized it as of this posting....

WARNING!!!!! OF rsafety sake DO NOT GO TO ZERO PSI in the rear! even one at zero PSI will result is drasticlally unsafe handling characteristics. Just for kicks I desided to see what an XT6 does with a single airsturt at zero as I know what a wagon handles like with a rear or front on zero. XT6 with air ride and a rear one that won't hold air is VERY hazzardous in corners and stopping. VERY HAZARDOUS. You see the wheel with the zero or absurdly low PSI has a near 100% habit of rising off the ground to near zero friction. this allows it to be the first to lock but as its a rear that raises forcing the "body roll" to the front. This is one wild diving feeling too! It feels like it is dropping even further then normal as the rear is riasing so high. So if your going into a left handed corner (and the left rear is low) then you have a highsiding rear end that points the front opposite corner out of the turn. The reason i say highsiding is its almost like the same feeling as a motorcycle gives as you go into a turn and the rear desides to loose contact with ground. I figurred out that the safeest method of keeping it driven safely on the road was locking the Rear diff and using the handbreak along with the engine braking.... Yes the obvious lowrider slam does occur too... denture removal slamming is nots very good for bumpy turns either... then you get the webble wobble feeling and thats just not fun at all. Experience was about 2 weeks of trying to figure out why the rear would (honestly) randomly loose PSI in one or both struts. Turns out the air lines that go into the solinoids (back side of the solinoids ) needed to be cleaned and the solinoids gasket/ O-ring thingy that goes between the strut mounting surface and the underside of the solinoid. PArt cast me $6 a piece to solve that problem last year. Oh and what ever you do don't lt them sit at full deflation for to long otherwise they will excellerate the wear with cracksnearest the "normal low" standing position and as such will not be long beofre you'll need to replace them. Tangent.. that being said I have been working on a manual override setup for each of the struts with a guage to set them up and that way be able to manually adjust each one - or as a pair to specific PSI for this of for that reason..... current estimation in parts is just over $50 for this project but it looks like it'll be closer to $100 for all the extra stuff. Oh and a side note for the actual Line that goes into the slinoid, the tire once its off covers a metal plate that uses two plstic sorta threaded screws at the top and on 10mm bolt at the bottom below the solinoid. These plastic screws are of the same design that the philips screws are for the door foot trim that clips over the carpet. the threaded washer that splitsout into 3 or 4 spread arms securing the screw in place.... yeah that design. I just twist a few times then end up pulling them out and when i reinstall them i just "push-pin" them back into the plastic washerlike threaded whole filler thingy. I'm eating and brain is focused on food so the name of the part is not coming to me at the moment sorry. (yeah its an excuse but eh) You can clean off the plastic hose once removed from the plug in port on the solinoid you could put a light coating of silicon sealant around the little tiny o-ring on the plastic air line and that also adds an extra layer of sealing protection as it ages and as winter set in.

link isn't workin for me - you knw why? is it a signin only site?

please do I am very curious....

do a google search on Grampa and subaru in the search and you should come up with a great story with pictures of a GL sedan with a FMIC :>) i didn't save it to my fav's so I can't snap it in here sorry.