electryc_monk

now that its a manual S/R 5 spd I'll bet he wants a Manual.

these are the clean versions. Same slut different dress same stuff different day yes on the bohica -in face i knew of a (then local to the base i was on) group of marines that made their jerseys for the softball team name as Bohica's. hehehe and the MSDS I'm surprised you never heard of : My-Stuff-Doesn't-Stink or its real world name Maintance Safety Data Sheet Dad showed me a "book" before he retired (Air force standardisation (DOD logistics in the end)) this was the glossary of all known offical acronyms of all the armed services and DOD size was something like 11 inches by 14+ inches and almost 3 inches thick. standard printer font.

well fellow uncle sams kid (I'm ex-navy airdale AKA rotorhead at that) I dare bet that you know of the following ones then? B.o.h.i.c.a. s.s.d.d. m.s.d.s. <-- often refering to newbie 0-2 or 0-3's not the legit use of it.

now that that pesky w32 nachi virus is dead i ummmm see a person looking for advice. I also see alot of excellent advice on the ease and cost of the conversion. I have heard many of them do it and seem rather painless to do, I however admit to enjoying the ride of the air system. and the lifted one is riding just fine too. if your curious i just least night did a search on http://www.car-parts.com for air struts and found the North Carolina salvage yeard that i have delt with in the past has rears but there are others out there too. It's not that riusky either as every yard i have delt with over the last ummmm 7 or 8 years via the net has been very good about replacement if its fubar in a time window thats reasonable etc. personally the air ride is easy to deal with if you have the FSM and some time on your hands. just out of curiousity is the front adjusting when you push in the high to low button? or does it seem to sit "really high?" I'd suggest trying this experiment with ignition off for starters. 1. remove the fuse for height 15A 2. 12mm wrench on the air nut on top of the front struts. *** loosen till you start to hear air rush out but not all the way, occasionally the lil o-ring under the nut/cap have flown out and hit the ground on me so let them sorta seep out the first time till you see the hose and o-ring - okay? 3. once the front two are flat out, snug them back down...not too tight mind you "reefing down doesn't help here". put a jack at the rear lifting points and lift it up about 3-5 inches approx from its full flat position. (this is approx. enough for the height control CPU to see that they are "low" and need to be leveled out. spray the airlines down with some water or soapy water prefered to see if it is leaking at the solinoids. The rears have these two plastic nuts that can be unscrewed or yanked out and a 10mm(?) nut that is to the rear of the strut and that allows easy sight of the rear solinoid for inspection. 4. put fuse back in and turn ignition to full on(dash lights up and all) just don't startt the car.. not necessary. compressor should start right up or in a few second it will activate. 5. listen for the 4 seperate struts solinoids to cycle on and off. you'll wanna have the radio off in the garage to hear them all from anyone of the different wheelwells. 6. if the rear does start to inflate it will raise it completely off the jack and it may take about 2-3 minutes to acomplish this. 7**lucky number 7. IF any of the airlines seem to be leaking there are a few things that can be done to fix the leak and its a rather simple/no brainer. after turning it all off and jacking that particular side all the way up (for the elbow room and visibilty of the job to be..... use a small screw driver and your fingers to slowly and softly pry the 4 plastic clips away from the shelfed edge washer sealing ring and that will allow you to easy it out from them..... the o-ring on the blackish colored airline has a retaining ring so you don't have to worry about it for the rears like you do on the fronts. after removal use a qtip(i like it) and some alcohol or spray some brakeparts cleaner on the swap and wipe out the chromed area that the oring would seal against. then do the same with the o-ring on the hose... but with a soapy water instead... save the o-ring from the chemicals !!! then try to put a VERY LIGHT coat of silicon on the o-ring only and not the whit-ish plastic clip tube. Then reinstall the hose in the solinoid. i'd spin it a little once in the clips and then leave it alone and lower that side back down to that 3-5 inch above flat postion again and.....go turn on the ignition. that should be enougfh of a head start to give you a better feeling of the system..... good luck and K.I.T. -steve in Denton, Tx AKA electryc_monk http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk or the USMB msn photo's page under electryc monk for the lifted photo's

Ahhh Skipper this is a very stimulating thread, and I like where it has been going. Here are a few of my thoughts and also a question or two with in it all.... First off before i forget :-p There is this idea of an external oilcooler and its location that has been bugging me on and off for over a year now. Like the Mitzu Eclpise Intercooler location mainly. I have a line on a friends radiator shop that called a manufaturer of raditors for the idea of a 3 row or atleast a wide 2 row for the turbo wagon. Well after a couple weeks of then having the exact measurements i gave them the cost came back at (if memory is still correct) approx. $500 for two custom radiators as i was asking for two to replace the stock 2-cores in my (now two) then mine(silver) and 'Trina's (blue) wagons. And they would fit in the stock setup of the wagons' grill and would also handle the factory clutched fan or the narrow electric push pull designs... anyways, the oil cooler location that i was planning on is still being mentally debated for that thermal disapation aspect. As i drive most of the year in Tejas and then visit the Michigan wonderland in the winter and occasionally in the summer the heat isn't really an issue to me but, the ice and slushy coldness on an oil cooler is a worry for condensation. Then I was thinking of what Uncle Dave did with is ole Power Wagon back when I was in high school. Mounted the oil cooler on the fender well under the hood and then he set an electric fan over it to suck air across it and had the hood louvers only a few times directly over the cooler. Now the distance from the louvers to the cooler fins in not exact but I'd educated-guess it to be about 3-5 inches. Now I am going to relocate the air cleaner to inside the fenderwell with tubing for a "cold air intake" this would leave plenty of room for this small oil cooler to sit and then take one of those "deco-esque Outback hood vents" that i have and mount it to the hood above the oil cooler. Now the cooler would basicly be directly below this plate it also would be near and sorta under the cold air intake which would recieve some of the warmer air off the cooler but it would also protect the cooler from excess cold airflow. Maybe even mount a small( say 6" ) motorcycle cooling fan to the vent grate on the hood and that might do the trick? The removal of the condenser should definately show a temperature change on the actual radiator reading. I'd bet more the 3 degrees F. Conservative bet. Yes it has been some time since I've had those automotive courses. And yes i am still working on those upper level physics classes but there is still alot to be said for the 'in training unoffical professional' (soft grin) - true? Now about that reference to the oil to water cooler. Working on the same principle as the water to air Intercooler there are more "parts to break" but if done in conjunction with the OEM coolant system then it would actually stay more balenced then with a seperate (read) stand alone oil cooling system - wouldn't it? (Whether its air to oil or seperate water to oil.) Now for the Thermostat seesaw. With such a significantly smaller window of thermal varience then *other* engines (VW bug's and busses not withstanding) the 195 vs. 180 vs. etal Tstats I have to say that the drive to Nevada and back with a 180 driving at freeway speeds and above with the A/C on the digi-dash thermo was never allowed to get in the red. *** grounding issue next*** the temp. stayed right about in the middle or one bar below the mid-point. Having said that it was in a fresh 50/50 or higher consentration of ethoyleneGlycol, one year old 2 core from Radiators dot com, and the 180 stat. the previous summers roadtrip to michigan with a trailer had the (then) fresh outta the box radiator and a 195 Tstat and exactly 50/50 and it would run 2 or 3 bars from the redline..... and that was with occasionally using the A/C and not realizing the *grounding issue* back then. (Calabz really brought this to my attention sooo...) Beofre his cross-the Con-US trip he has the engine grounded and then even more grounded with heavier wire gauge and has since not seen near the "digital jump" that the "rest of us Digi-dashs" see with the water temp. so I am wondering how much the digi jump is when mapped against the mechanical or "other" electronic gauges your using in this experiment or other experiments? Even with the digi-jump that i omitted from the previous paragraph the temp readings still never actually hot the red bars. Back to the oil coolers proximity to the oil filter concern. The longer the hose/pipe is from the pump the smaller the reaction time for oil loss or leakage and faster the opportunity of turbo damage or actual engine damage due to oil pressure and flow drop offs. Isn't that a legit worry when having any oil cooler in a system? And isn't it logical to think/presume(sp) that the concern towards the critical window of the engines safe opporation is exponetial with the distance from the pump due to cavitation and /or loss of pressure due to lack of oil in the hydralic sytem? I'll stop here and also ask Skipper if my ADHD/dyslexia needs a 'rewording' or whatever to unconfuse anyone.....

the short trip to denton from Calebz Casa de lux was a funny feeling with the PK 3" lift on the GL-10 wagon first off. But, I can tell you that after the trip to Burningman two weeks ago - thats a 3000+ freeway miles trip i REALLY like how it handled the trip. I still have the air ride suspension too. The tires are 185 70R13's as i haven't had time to plan the XT6 conversion yet sooo. its still the stock wheels etc. The one odd funny note for visibility is that it does feel neat to be eye level with alot of the "newer SUV's" around town. The route we took from Denton Texas to Northern NEvada. 287 to Amarillo then i think is was I-52/64 over to I-25 in NM then up to Denver and across the Vail summit and a sunrise dip in the sulfur springs of Glenwood Springs..... then a right turn at Solina in Utah up to Salt Lake city and across on I-80 till the Nevada small highway up to Black rock city. Speeds of speed limit and occasionally significantly over were often seen but at all times the ride was just as good as stock height. There had been a couple times i saw "Dip" signs and well we did a dip-see-doo... and got a little air but not much we were heavily loaded with camping gear so.... it was fun... the trip back was taking the Moab exit in utah and then sliding over to Hwy 666 down to I-40 was it??? and then back down 287 to denton... all in all a wonderful drive and the turbo didn't seem to knock even when i had to use $2.38 a galloon of 87 octane as it was the only fuel at the station that day of the trip. there were a couple $2.12 89 octane fillups as well. lets just say that i am just now getting around to totaling the gas cost of this drive. thankfully i'll be spliting it up with someone else the visa card isn't to happy with the level of spending on it now. Side note.... I did a search for PKDavis and found non and seeing as how we are "advised" to not send an "ATTN" subject message I'll await a reply to this thread as to WHAT his ID is now and then email him directly about this spare stock steering knuckle awaiting an address to be sent to him..... (wink wink) He did say he was sending me a couple of Ozified decals for the car and I have yet to recieve them some 3+weeks later (knowing grin of patience)

well a few years ago I made up a Blue-line for a "tube front" design... i know i have the drawing still, but alas it is up at the 'Rents in Michigan. I basicaly scaled the typical *Truck* scary bumper down to a mild yet, ergonomic design. First visualize the original bumper has been removed and gutted. The outter skin and the metal skeleton are seperated (unscrewed) from each other. then tmplate the physical size and bolt position of the tubes that attach to the frame of the car. Now use some steel tube (square or round your choice) and do a single 1.5 or 2 inch front piece and then the two studs that 90 degree and attach to the frame. Next you have that centered "A" style loop that is reminicent to the EA81 pushbar or Scorpions 'Roo bars in Aussieland. It is at approx. 30-45 degree angle parallel to the ground off the one front tube. Now with that attached the original bumper skin is cut to fit around that big squared doughnut that sticks out in the middle and then down for the skid plate. the inside (radiator side) of the main tube has the rail of threaded holes attached to it from the old bumper(both the top and bottom) allowing the stock skin to be re attached with the stock screws... Then this "stock looking" bumper is re attached to the stock four frame bolt holes in the Frame. The obvious is that the turnsignals attachment points would also need to be affixed to the underside I almost forgot to mention this little mod, sorry. est. weight of this design i made up with 1.5 inch pipe was under 100 lbs. but i can't for the life of me remember the closer amount.... any bets as i can't offer a batter quantity. hope the description is decypherable to "see".

checks wind direction, sniffs air.... (Looks at Calebz) "I smell a short road trip to Laredo(sp)" what do you think eh? Maybe even get Okami's health up enough for a ride along too eh? :wave:

i'll be emailing PK now...

fun with Air Ride.... I'd suggest JAcking the front end up (once you loosen the front lugs of course) and the unplug the fuse for the height control. then you can loosen the 12mm cap on the top of the struts and slowly let the air out **Don't fully remove the cap just yet!!!**** when the air is no longer seeping out of the cap then you can safely remove it and not chance a O-RING flying away. they usually stay on the airline BUT.... I have had a couple try to fly away over the years. this will allow you the opportunity to then unbolt the two lower strut bolts and swing the spindle etc. outta the way as your planning on doing.

Alright already... I'll play with the SAAB part when i get's back from Nevada via boulder Colorado. Ummmmm I was just hoping to find out if the HALLMAN boost controller 's manual wire tube thingy was a part with a "known name" like a choke cable or some such name with a part number like -ohhhh a SLR Camera has a manual finger trigger that has a locking disk on it to hold the shutter wide open for a opperator to be determinded time then closes it without giggling the camera. does this make a clearer picture.... it's be like having a "volume" control knob for the turbo as i have the A/F and the boost/vac gauges installed and op'ing fine. ugghh its time for sleep.... good night alll

As a continuation from the thread i started absking for specifics I think I have a better idea of what I need to know now. There is a design (mostlikely trademarked) called the Hallman Boost Controller that has a cable? or rod in a casing? I'd like to know what this part might be or if its possibly a locking choke cable or something like it? That is one of the specific parts I'd like to know about and where I might find it. PArt # 2 and #3 are more of a what *kit or otherwise were they found in for use. The small spring and the balbarring. Do any of these have "partnumbers" that anyone remembers or what? that way i can go about building this puppy. I am still interested in a Sabb"APC" 3 wire thingy but, that's down the road aways..... i have seen the official HAllman site and don't feel like spending almost a Ben Franklin for the setup. there that's enough for now.

electronic ink!