garner

Meeky Moose, Do your self or someone else a favor and don't let that block sit with coolant in the cylinders for long. I just bought a motor with what turned out to be a bad turbo leaking coolant. The cylinder bores were so pitted by rust I am getting .5mm bored. Coolant is suposed to stop corrosion, but I 'm not sure I buy that. Maybe just some oil or wd-40 in the spark plug holes will preserve to corpse for a future rebuilder garner

Hey partsman you don't work on Wednesdays? I'll call tomorrow. Must order .5mm oversize rings from beck-arnely garner

I'm preparing to have my EA82T cylinders bored to .5mm OS. None of the machine shops in Eugene, OR or all of Oregon have a deck plate for this motor. Some will make them for some considerable $$$. All of these shops say that it is unnecessary of this block since the heads only get torqued to 45-50ftlbs. They also say that since the block is well seasoned (180k) it won't move under torque I have read posts from the airplane guys that say it is absolutely manditory to use deck plates when boring cylinders My thoughts are that if the heads are dead flat and the coresponding surface of the block is also dead flat, there should be no problem. What do you all think?

The reason I want to remove it is that I'm going to have all the parts hot tanked and I figured it would be good to get the solvent inside there. Also, If I ever need t remove the plug once the engine is built and installed, It will be even more of a PITA. If I drill through the plug in an effort to remove it, do I risk messing something up? As in, will I drill into something important?

I am rebuilding an EA82T and I'm having difficulty with the crank case plug. It's the plug on the bottom of the driver's side half(I think, I'm at work now and I'm going off memory). It is much like the wrist pin access plugs. I have really $%@#ed up the 14mm allen socket and am prepared to replace it once I remove the old one. Before I get crazy with the sawsall or whatver, I wonder... Can anyone tell me what's behind this plug? thanks

electryc_monk, Should I even ask? garner

I do understand that this is a balancing act. I will not be doing more off roading than driving on some dirt roads. I want this thing fast on the street. I'm not going to go crazy with it, just take a few lbs off. On a related note: How about crank pulleys? For newer Impreza you can buy light weight pulley kits (not underdrive) that get nearly 10 more hp to the wheels. (I know, that might be exagerated). What is the deal here? I understand it does nothing to make more hp but frees it up to get to the wheels (which is, of course, the place for it)

WJM, Whay do you suppose caused the head gaskets to blow? Is this the Carb Block turbo high commpression motor that you have posted about? Could the comprression just be to high? The copper head gaskets wouldn't seal? The WRX sounds very fun especially one the warranty runs out and you can really get into the motor. I have an 03 TS wagon and love it after some intake and exhaust work.

I am building this Brat for the streets primarily. It will be stock height, maybe lowered. I ain't runnin' no 30"s on it. Some people have said that the mass of the flywheel helps the car accelerate, I don't really understand the logic. It seems to me that the less mass the engine has to get spinning, more of the engines power gets to the wheels, the engine revs up faster and easier. Once it's up to speed, sure the mass of the flywheel keeps the wheels powered even when the right foot is off the gas. To me, for acceleration it seems, the lighter the better I've done several google searches on lightened flywheels. there is a lot of info out there but much contradiction. Anyone have some scientific input on the flywheel weight and its various effects on cars acceleration, hp to the wheels, etc.? I'd love to hear it. garner

I know that light flywheels make a big difference. Man, the stock flywheel is a tank. I have access to some very nice metal lathes as I don't trust my little South Bend for critical machining. questions: Is all the material removed from the motor side? I assume you retain the timing marks. How much in inches is 6lb. as in how much dimensional material is removed to take 6 lbs off the sucker? thanks

I've read a bunch of signatures that specify lightened flywheels. How are you guys doing this? I assume they are chucked up on a lathe and the motor side turned down a bit. Any tricks for getting the flywheel chucked up? I think the end of the crank shaft would make a good fixture for this. Maybe there are some other trick you know of? How far can one go with out making it weak? I think Skip took 6lbs off his, is this the limit? Any advise or experience would be very helpful thanks

RedRX I found them here http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6918&highlight=cam

I just started tearing down an EA82T in preparation for a rebuild. Man there are a lot of *%@ vacuum lines. I am wondering how much of this crap I actually need to have a working engine. I have read the post on Carbed EA82s http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7575&highlight=vacuum and wonder what the differances would be with the Turbo version? I have yet to really study the boring emmisions section in the FSM but I understand some of what I'm looking at is working to capture fuel vapors and not vacuum lines. I will not be driving this vehicle daily so I will not loose much sleep over putting some HC's into the environment on occasion. Oregon has air that is too clean anyway. i guess I am at this point being lazy in thinking about getting all those little tubes back to where they came and wonder how much of it I can ignore

Has anyone relocated their spare to a truck like mounting? Like under the bed behind the rear axle? It seems like it would fit easily, a little off to the drivers side than right in the center I am thinking of making room for an intercooler in the sort of WRX location, under a hood scoop. Is there anything I'm not thinking of?

So I am looking for something like this? http://usmb.net/albums/albuo24/spider_top_XT2.sized.jpg It's from a non-turbo 88xt I'm told. Is a non-turbo spider workable on a turbo engine? I understand there are wiring issues but is it just a matter of getting things connected? thanks

I get the compresion deal now, Thanks for all your explanations. so as for the spider intake, I want a turbo one off an 87 1/2 XT?. And the label on the door will say it's an 88? What is the difference between the Turbo and Non Turbo spiders? thanks

don't want to jack this thread, but... At what point should a person consider Copper Head gaskets? I plan to rebuild an EA82T and may do the Carb block swap for higher compression. When do Copper head gaskets become necessary? Has anyone made their own CU hg? It seems pretty easy for a guy with a milling machine and a buch of different size holesaws and drill bits Any thoughts?

thanks guys I'm still digesting the compression issue and am certain I will understand soon. It does seem like the carb block would cause some hassles and performance would barely justify the difficulty? I read some posts on Delta cams and that seems like a promising mod. The torque grind that WJM got sounds like alot of bang for the buck. I have not found any posts from WJM about performance after the cam regrind so I don't know how true the +20h.p. hp figure is. $135 is a pretty good deal if you really get that much pep. Dennis ex24, what did your "head work" consist of besides the standard valve job? Alot of folks mention the "spider intake" I don't believe I've ever seen one. What vehicles might I canabalize for one of these drool worthy intake manifolds? thanks again and keep the ideas coming

Thanks guys, Miles, where do you find the time to write such in depth posts, you must work for the state or something:D Why are compression figures different on the two blocks? It seems like a turbo engine would want more compression? What years/cars had the spider intakes? Any advice on cam re-grinds? thanks

I am about to rebuild an EA82T What things should I consider doing to the internals to get more H.P and Torque? Anyone have experience or atleast ideas about the cost effectiveness of the following proceedures? Cam regrind? Pistons? Shave heads? Port/Polish? Valves? I'd like to get the HP up to about 150-170 or higher. What should I do inside while all the parts are scattered all over the shop? I will be using this motor on the street primarily(to smoke hondas ) and some rally x and auto x.

I am about to take on an EA82T engine rebuild. Where does one get good tech/service manuals? garner

hey turbobrat I know you mounted your ea82t higher than stock to avoid the frame rails. How much too wide is the 82T vs the 71 How much would the frame rails need to be cut back to get it down to the stock height and keep the roll center down low? Anyone have valve cover to valve cover width of the EA82T? Thanks all

I have nothing attatched to the seats No handlebars or u brakets, everything else is there. headrest (headbangers), seatbelt (though it would probably be best to be thrown clear) etc. I bet I can rig something up So are the seats designed to allow quick install and removal or are they basically bolted in? Could anyone take a picture of the bottom side of a seat, removeld from the mounting rail? Many thanks

Miles, I also read your post to 78Turbobrat about the control arm swap, sounds interesting. You've done this? I may be asking for more advice on that one. It may be even easier if I swap the crossmember at the same time. This is going to take a while (I hope to do it quicker than 78Turbobrat:-\ ) What ever I do, I'll keep good notes and take lots of pictures. I am pretty sure I will be in over my head but that's never stopped me before:headbang: thanks

On a simalar note, I'm thinking of doing 78turbobrat's swap and drop an EA82T in my first gen brat. I know I'll have crossmember issues. Does anyone know if the EA82T crossmember will bolt up to the 1st gen Brat? I'm going to get the crossmember off the donor car and modify/fabricate the stuff to work. What other issues in terms of getting it to fit can you all think of. I know this is going to be a tough one, but I know it's possible thanks