garner

I'm shopping for gauges and I wonder what range I want for Water temp and Oil Pressure What is normal operating Temp? What is normal operating Oil Pressure? Basically, I'd like to pick ranges that keep the needle somewhere in the middle during normal operation thanks in advance for the advice btw, we're talking EA82T here garner

Update, Now I have finally tried the starting fluid test and bang, it fired up for a second!!! The first time I've heard this motor make noise on it's own!!! Good new, it seems spark is ok and timing is close enough Bad news, seems fuel is not getting delivered to the cylinders. I will try the starting fluid test a few more times to see if it is priming the fuel system, perhaps I have some air that I need to get out of the system? My newest question relates to the TPS. What exactly does the feedback from the TPS do to the computer. ie, does the TPS influence fuel injector pulse? thanks for letting me ramble garner

I'd like to see some one take that many jumps with a honda. I wonder if that guy wants to sell any parts off that wagon??? like the front shocks

Is it just me or is it impossible to use a timing light while turning over the engine with the starter? I'm getting a flash but it's less a strobe light and more a paparazzi flash bulb effect. Bottom line is I can't see a damn thing on the flywheel. Also, the #1 on the distributor is the one furthest back(closest to the fire wall) correct? I'll get this damn(beloved) thing running any day now garner

Ok, I'm a Moron.... stupid garner On the fuel lines, I had the in and out reversed, swapped them just for fun and presto, fuel pumps through the system Now, with very little assurance that I can do anything right, I am quadruple checking my timing. Anybody got a good method of assuring proper disty placement. I have definately found tdc on the compression stroke of clyinder 1. Now I'm supposed to make sure the timing mark on the disty gear lines up with the number 1 pin on the cap? garner

damn that's tough looking Now you're making me want a lifted Brat Nice work fellows, look forward to seeing it in person at WCSS6 garner

Here's how I set the disty, #1 cylinder at the top of the compression stroke (I had the spark plug screwed in just a bit and listened for the pssshhh as I turned the flywheel, removed the spark plug to confirm the pistons tdc location.) Then set the disty in to have the rotor in ignition on cyliner one, (pointing back toward fire wall) I think this is right??? Another question: What would happen if the FPR were put in backwards? (hypithetical situation of course, I would never do anything that dumb) Archemitis, now that you mention it, My cat did smell kind of funny when he jumped up on the bed last night garner

yeah, I wonder how long it would take to "prime the system" I'll try the starting fluid and see if I get fire. I feel very confident in my timing belts and I think my compression #'s support them being right on. garner

Thanks Russ, I'll try part throttle. when i pull the return line I get nothing, no fuel, no air pressure. I may have it plumbed wonky. Actually that is seeming more likely. Anyone got a good drwing or diagram of the fuel line plumbing on a spider? maybe I'll draw up what i have and people can tell me where I'm wrong Timing belts are perfect, or atleast I'm getting good compression (140psi cold). The disty is close but its difficult to use a timing light when the engine is just turning over by the starter. I got the right teeth engaged in the camshaft and the disty set to the middle, should I try the old starting fluid test? bring em on garner

Status report: Wiring complete, everything works (as far as I can tell). IG and FP relays switch, fuel pump operates, computer talks to me in diagnostic mode. Currently I am getting an all systems normal report from the computer(ie no trouble codes) The fuel pump is putting out pressure. I rigged up a guage that only reads to 30psi and the fuel pressure pegs this guage. There is spark, nice strong blue spark Injectors tick (as far as I can hear) I even hooked up a spare injector to the harness and held it while turning over the engine and could feel it click. problem is, I smell no gas. If I turn over the motor for 30 seconds with the pedal to the floor, I would think I'd smell some fuel. It seems that the fuel is not getting to the injectors? potential problems: 1. plumbing into and out of spider intake is wonky. I had to just figure this out as I didn't have an example to check. Anyone have a good diagram of the fuel line routing to a spider intake? I understand fuel goes in, to all injectors, then to the FPR, then returns to tank. I ditched the evap canister btw. As is, when I disconnect the return line, I smell no fuel nor do I feel any pressure as I would expect from a loop. 2. FPR is wack. What do these things do if they go bad, stop flow? or stop restricting the flow? My theory is that perhaps if the FPR is bad and it is stopping flow, there could be air trapped in the lines and thus the fuel can not get to the injectors. Not a great theory but it's all I've got... 3. 4 really bad injectors? seems unlikely. Any good simple methods to check injectors or the comtrol harness. I tried a test light but i don't think the pulse is long enough to make a regular 12v lamp light (maybe the pulse is less that 12V?) 4. Gremlins? or maybe these damn things help a brother out. Any suggestions hair brained or otherwise will be gladly accepted. This thing is so close (or maybe not) to running it's driving me nuts. garner

you're probably a lot closer than I. Here in Eugene, OR it's like 3:1, or atleast it seems like it

I agree, it's time for a subaru perfomance/mod/tech how to magazine. Something like Sport Compact Car without all the hondas, neons, focus, etc. Well, it should be a lot cooler than SCC. SCC often has articles on old school import cars like Datsun 510's and such... Subaru is coming out with a twice a year "performance subaru magazine" It will be pretty tame and of course the motivation will be to get everyone to buy a WRX or STI. I think it could be a combination of the stuff we are doing with the old school and the new school wrx/sti guys and maybe even sandrail guys, airplane guys and vw/subaru swap guys I think the reason we don't see a magazine like this is pure numbers. There are 50 hondas on the road for each subaru......

Thanks calebz so I can do with out the boost switch cause I will be using a boost gauge and don't need the boost light How about the overboost cutoff switch, can I override that (I'll be using a boost controller of course) or is that a bad idea? If I can override, how? So the overboost cutoff must tie into the wastegate hose or?....

Bump Certainly someone knows something about the boost switch and pressure switch????

Ok status update, I don't remember exactly how I did it but here I am.... From what I can tell, everything works. Ignition relay switched, fuel pump runs! The computer is talking to me!!! I'm getting trouble codes for the AF meter (not hooked up), O2 sensor (not hooked up) etc. Whoooo Hooooo My current mysteries are this: In tracing out the harness, I found two connectors (round with 2 wires each) one I labled "Boost switch" the other I labled "Pressure switch" I have no doo-dads which will fit the connectors nor do I have a clue what the boost switch or pressure switch look like? Anybody have any ideas? I can't wait to get this thing running, so close..... garner

intresting, I'll try that fuel pump wiring plan tonight. I do have power to the + side of the coil when ignition is set to on. I thought that was a good sign.... Yep, I have about 6-8 grounds stacked up on the firewall too. I might check the ground off the computer and add another to be sure it is grounding. Cars are funny with grounds when you're more used to 120 volt electrical. I keep forgeting that the car is the ground... keep em coming...(suggestions that is)

Help!!!! I have sorted a few things out with my wiring issues but still ahve one significant problem. I am not getting my FP or IG relays to switch. I found the EA82T harness ignition switch connector and tied the wires into the Brat harness, triple checked this and I am confident it is wired up properly. Are these relays using low voltage or amprage to switch high or using high to switch low? I have power to the high(larger diameter wire (RED)) side at all times. but as far as I can tell, no power to the low (small wire) side. I am assuming it's the low side that is switching the high side on and off.... questions: Is there anything about using a AT harness with a MT tranny that could cause difficulties? Does the AT inhibit switch do anything beyond not allowing you to turn the starter on without the car in Neutral? What does F/ICCD stand for (Fuel/Ignition control computer device?) Anyone have any ideas???

Me too?? I have a friend that will cut vinyl for me if I'm really nice to him. I've been searching for the old logo with no luck. I only find bad gifs that ar e all bit mapped. I think a nice big yellow logo would look great on the hood of my WRC rally Brat!! anyone? thanks in advance garner

so the brain should have one "on at all times" and one "on at ignition on" power input.... makes sense...I forgot about the code storage issue.... trouble code 666 (oddball incompatible engine and ecu swap) so the ignition relay switches the computer on and off or does the computer switch the ignition relay????

thanks for taking a look for me, the wires you called aout are really similar to what I've got going on so that makes me fell better. I should have been more specific though. I'm trying to figure out the ignition SWITCH, and how to tie the 2 harnesses together so that turning the key energizes the brain and motor harness, fp relay, ig relay etc... garner

yes, wiring, arrrggg. the ea82t is from an 85. I have an FSM for that year but honestly, chiltons has better wiring diagrams. In the FSM, everything is there but no wire colors are specified and none of the control connectors are indicated. Very thourough in the emmisions/fuel injection area. full pin outs diagrams, etc. I am fairly confident in most of what I've done to this point but I am hung up on tying in the ignition switch to power up the brain and engine control/sensors of the EA82t harness. At this point, I can turn the key on, have lights, heater blower, etc. as well as turn over the starter!!! I just am un certain where the EA82T harness gets it's juice. I am assuming it only gets energized in the "ON" possition of the ignition switch. Any help in finding the point in the EA82T harness that I should switch when I turn on the ignition????

Hey all, my brat is getting closer and closer to running!!! I have sorted ou the majority of the wiring issues but have one simple thing that I am unsure of. here is the set up: brat harness runs lights, accesories, etc, EA82T harness and brain run the engine. question: how do I tie the ignition in to the EA82T harness? I can't find anything that seems like the ignition connector on the EA82 harnesss. Anybody know what the ignition switch connectors look like, color, wire # and color help, my brain hurts... garner

I've got everthing but "keep your subaru alive" I find that I use them all. Like right now, I'm doing wiring and I find some info in one book, some other in another etc. A times, my shop looks more liek a library than anything. I guess my point is, you can never have too many manuals garner

one cooling line (return) goes to the underside of the pass side head. The coolant in comes from the water pipe. There is a flat spot just right of the thermostat housing that can easily be drilled and taped for a hose barb fitting. You will also have to do away with the egr system as the spider has no provision for it. The wiring on mine was basically a matter of swapping connectors, to get the engine harness to connect to the main harness. Pretty easy, most wire colors even matched up but double check.

the spider makes it easy (possible) to use a top mount intercooler as well, and they look cool !! If you get it, take everything with it, water pipe, manifold, injector blocks, harness, hard pipe mess etc. nothing worse than ending up with 3/4 of a spider garner