garner

yes, the water pipe is crucial. It would really simplify the swap if you got all the vac and fuel lines and the harness from the intake as well. If you can't get all those bits, you'll have to fab up fuel rails and customize the harness you have. not the easiest way to go.... even with all the parts, there's still some mods you'll need to do to make it work Oh, and if you can get someone to bead-blast it, it'll look real nifty!! garner

keith, You want everything!!!! This includes the spider plenum, the two intake blocks and the water pipe, get the harness injectors and fuel rails as well. Basically you remove 3 bolts from each side and remove the whole thing as a unit from the heads up. If you post the pics the JY sent, I will tell you if you've got it all. garner

hti, I have a 1980 FSM that I believe has the info you need. You are welcome to borrow it and photocopy the sections you need. I also have one of those transmissions that works (so I'm told) that could be had for cheap. Give me a call (john has my number) garner

hey danbob, I can't say I have an answer for you but this issue is something I'm familiar with. I think we talked about it at WCSS (Maybe I was ) And it is an issue that a number of people have delt with and one worth getting to the bottom of Mine has gone away mostly and I can't actually "show it" to anyone because it happens randomly. The only thing I've done since experiencing it is put in an adjustable RRFPR made by Bosch, sold as an MSD. It has allowed me to crank the FP up to 45 or so and it seems to have almost fixed the problem..... Have you tried disconnecting the "Boost Cut" switch? Probably did that a long time ago..... You might want to examine the fuel delivery system. Your description of sand down the down pipe make me think you probably want to check your turbo while you're at it garner

Ruparts, Good point. I did what you describe while rebuilding the motor. A piece of wire and some compressed air did the trick. I'm fairly certain my HLAs are toast, atleast a couple of them. ' I should see my set of HLAs tommorrow. I'll intall them when I have the motor out next to swap to 3.90 tranny. I can do it with the engine in place but it's so much easier if the motor is pulled.... I betting I'll have one of the quietest valve trains around. garner

mmmmm,shiny.....

You've got to believe in the power of Google!!! Can I get a witness? Repent Thine Clicking Lifters, Repent! (actually I was trying to go for a "but wait there's more sort of infomercial kind of thing but.....)

If you're like me you've tried everything to get your HLAs to SHUT THE $@$ UP You've tried MMO, leaves your engine with that minty fresh smell!! but didn't work for me You've tried the infamous and hard to find "seafoam", smells good too but seems to do nothing if not make them more noisey. You've tried various combinations of oil, atf, wtf, more oil, different oil, heavier oil, octane booster, windsheild wiper fluid, (OK these are exagerations but as I walk the aisle at the auto parts store, my mind wonders if one of those random petroleum based products is the miracle cure, the silver bullet for demonized HLAs (note: I did get some results form a secret flush recipe mudrat gave to me but getting rid of all the oil and stuff envolved was a chore in itself) You've even pulled them apart (stabbing your self in the palm with a tiny screwdriver several times) cleaned them and put them back together, this seems to make a bad HLA go further to the darkside in my experience. Of course you've repalced the oil pump seals, the o-rings and perhaps even replaced the whole damn oil pump but still.... Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click!Click! AHHHGGHHHGHH!!!!! What's a guy to do? The dealer want's $50 each x 8 because who knows when a good HLA will turn bad? And besides, are you sure that's the noisey one??? Behold http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm Rebuilt HLAs for EA82s get this, $4.50 each rebuilding your core or $5.75 outright!!!! I know what your thinking, he put the decimal point in the wrong place! But no, an entire set of warranteed HLAs for less than the price of one new OEM HLA (that has been sitting on a shelf somewhere for years, with the oil drying up.....) How can they do this you ask, I have no idea but I wasn't going to point out that they don't charge enough when I ordered my set Hurry act now before your HLAs drive you crazy!!! and, you're welcome garner

ru4x4ever, Yes, let's swap. you can come on thursday, email me for directions.... garner

hey there ru4x4ever, I have a single range ea71 sitting here in Eugene. I also have a spare ea71 flywheel. How would I know if this is the flywheel you need? I was just a spare when I bought my brat so I know nothing a bout it. The tranny works great. Let me know how I can help garner

me too, me too garner

go oddcompp go!!!

Uhh, well, um, you see the thing is.... 105 in a 65. just kidding I had no front licence plate (ie, trooper was bored) what, did you roll past and see me? He was cool about it and told me to put it on at my earliest convenience... it was a great way to start my return trip... garner

Yep,Thanks for all the work and $ to make it happen. It was my first and I had a blast. I can hardly wait for next year. Good to see everyone and meet a ton of board members for the first time. I mentioned it before, but if there was any way to work an auto-x into the mix, that's all I can imagine would make it better.... thanks again, garner

Good News!!! John told me of your saga last night, I was bummed for you. Let the pimping begin see you at WCSS garner

I've seen it, it's the most pimp EA series strret rides I've ever seen and once done (very shortly), will be even pimp-er....

Ok, now it is seeming a little clearer, rotating both inner and outer opposite each other gives more fine/smaller adjustments. So I went one spine on the inside and it droped about 1/2", should just need two or maybe 3 more to get to the 1 1/2" I'm looking for.... bajavwsoobnut, no IM, but email @ garner@uoregon.edu. I'm leaving town this weekend so I won't have a chance to tinker with it again until next week, Thanks for the ideas, explanations. Some times the FSM info is just "engrish" to me and more confusing than helpfull.... garner

So technically when I drive the torsion bar it actually drives both the inner and outer splines out. The brat is up on jackstands, I put a jack under the trailing arm and push it up to where I want it, then drive the torsion bar back in, perhaps I just need to go alot further than I think so when it drops back, it's where I want it...... garner

I'm trying to lower the stock suspension on my Gen 1 Brat. The front was easy, cut coils. On the back I am confused by the torsion bar and how one adjusts ride hieght in the rear. The FSM indicates adjusting inner and outer spline ends opposite one another to lift the rear but say's nothing about how to lower it. It seemed to me that if I knocked the torsion bar splines out of engagement, jack up the control arm to where I want it then drive in torsion bars in at that setting. I did that and unlike the 2 inches that I jacked it up, I ended up with only about 1/2 inch drop. Do you really need to adjust both the inner and outer opposite each other? Anyone have any insights or advice. Caboobaroo? I know you just did this not long ago, I'm going for a bit less drop than you but the same basic plan.... garner

Welcome mAJJJORD, The brumby you refer to wouldn't by any chance be the British racing green one as seen on this page: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kerrtw/ ? If so, did you build it and if so please email me, I've got a load of questions relating mostly to the suspension. END OF HIJACK Will, GO FOR IT, I think the EA82T is a great platform, not without it's limitations but still a great project motor garner

Sounds like it's toast. As Edrach pointed out about 19 of 20 junkyard vac advance units are. If you look in your FSM (you do have one right?) you'll find the advance curves for the turbo distributor. The Vacuum creates the most advance and thus is very crucial to proper engine operation and power. The most reasonable and dependable option is to have the unit rebuilt by a place called Philbin Group in Portland, OR http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/special_services.htm the above is a link to the services page, the prices are not current, I believe it is $40 for a single stage advance unit.... In the mean time, the car will probably run marginally with out it so you can remove the unit, send it in to get rebuilt and still drive. You might want to advance your timing a bit to compensate for the fact that the vacuum unit isn't there.... good luck garner

The stock impreza springs are pretty soft really, I swapped mine for prodrive without a spring compressor. Just hold the strut bottom between yer feet and put a little downward pressure on them. Now, if your talking 500ft/lb springs, that's when cheap compressors are asking for a spring upside yo grill....

yep, dats da hill holder....

Adam, I totally missed your thread, I kind of go in spurts with the board, on constantly and then off for a couple days.... I think you've got a great idea. infact, I just today posted a thread about fiberglass fenders for a gen 1. In a reply Craven pointed out that there are a pair on ebay right now. I will buy them provide some board member doesn't snipe me. I'd be happy to let you take molds off these when I get them in trade (partial or what ever) for a gen 1 hood (got any experience with carbon fiber?) Anyway keep us posted and shoot me a pm i fyou're interested in the fenders for molds. garner