garner

Just talked to Mark at Philbin, it's $40 for single and $60 for double... Just out of curiousity WJM, what's dealer list? we'll see, garner

thanks GD, I don't think he guy I talked to really knew what I needed..... $25 for rebuilt is a great deal garner

the pipe which feeds the turbo....

that place in portland wanted $50 when I talked to them yesterday. WJM was going to see if he had a spare working one in his parts pile for me... garner

disrtibutor? advance unit? just a guess garner

oh man, you have access to the motherload of subaru information! That could come in really handy... Can you post parts diagrams etc? My local dealer parts guy gets tired of me leaning over the counter asking him to pull up diagrams and such. Anyway, my motor and disty were once 85 FED/2WD/AT/TURBO. The Hitatchi number is D4R84-20. Does that tell you anything? garner

yes, the "air spliters" that wrx guys use are said to help a lot by diverting the air straight down in to the IC.

WJM, I need a vac advance units from one of those distys. I have one on loan from mudrat. It is from a latter model turbo disty and isn't quite right. If you have a spare working vac advance unit that you'd like to part with let me know. Basically thge one I borrowed has a shorter pull arm. I pop rivited a little extension to it. It works but is less than optimum. Sounds like maybe you are experiencing knock retard if you are feeling/ hearing detonation and experiencing a lack of power at that point. Good to know the knock control is working. I'm collecting Saab APC parts. oddcomp pioneered the adaptation of APC to subaru motors. Lots of folks are adapting the system to various platforms. You know about APC? Knock control system that bleeds boost when it senses knock, rather than retarding timing. Sounds like a great system as you loose a bit of power at detonation but not like hitting a wall. Might be worth looking into check out this site for more info http://hjem.get2net.dk/bengaard/apc-syst.htm and a link off that site showing the effect of knocking, pretty scary http://hjem.get2net.dk/bengaard/stort1.htm garner

what is the cause of the hicup, skip, burp deal between 3-4 k? I was experiencing something like that only at 1500-3000 ish until I replaced the vac advance unit. Worked like a charm. Are hitting rev cut of boost cut? My motor wil fly past 7k without rev cut. That is if I can get her there without high boost... garner

hey tex, any luck? garner

report: borrowed a similar vac advance unit from mudrat, adapted it to fit (the puller arm was not the right length). Installed, re set timing, (right about 23.5 btdc) took test drive WOO HOOO, now we're talking. Not getting any of the lag between idle and 2000, much better throttle response, not hitting the faux boost cut I was hitting before. just a short drive, but when shifting into second after a good hard pull in first and get a little this things a monster!!! garner

ok, that's enough lols WJM, good point, I know the manuals are 25 spline for turbo and, er, something less for NA...don't know about auto. garner

turbo and non turbo trannys have different spline counts on the stub axles and different final reduction ratios. Pretty different actually. Turbo trannys are (suposed to be) more robust to handle the extra power o fthe turbo motor with out breaking. what year/model are you working on? garner

get everything from the heads up. The spider is actually 4 parts: 2 injector blocks, 1 water pipe, and one spider. Besides that, all the hard fuel lines, and vac stuff and the harness. You should be able to unplug two harness connectors, disconnect some fuel and vac stuff and remove two or three bolts per injector block and take it all as one piece garner

Nutt7, Seems the tdo4 is not bad at all. I am without vacuum advance and I'm guessing this is responsible for much of the lag, it could be cams too, I'm guessing once every thing is dialed, I bet the turbo will be a great match. Partsman, I'll get over there one of these days.... Phatbrat, yes, 1980 subaru deep blue. It's like the wrc blue with out the metalic and pearl, more oldschool. I don't know if the front end will stay shaved, maybe some cool custom bumper... subyrally, the stock up pipe to tdo4 fits with the ovalization of one hole. I used a wrx down pipe which is not too far from the stock ea82t dp rallyruss, with my set up and the wrx down pipe, I cut a wedge out and re-welded to change the angle so the exit flange was a little higher /closer to the tranny cross member, from there on it's all custom (btw, it sucks welding under a car) caboobaroo, this weekend I was the man. I took the brat to some subaru friends house. A bunch of wrx wagon and turbo forester owners. One friend demanded a ride (I had wanted to wait until I had every bug worked out) to impress the crowd, I pulled a heavy launch and fish tailed down the block (not my neighborhood...) It's pretty easy to be a jack rump roast in this thing as is.... mtsfabman, I think I'm going to drive out to john's this weekend maybe we can meet up? Thank for all the good words folks, it's nice to have other people appreciate my efforts garner

Ok found my problem, I don't know why it always takes me so long to test the obvious, but I finally let her idle and removed the vacuum advance, no change. Put a length o' tubing on it and sucked really hard, no change. Pulled the vac advance unit to test out of the disty, no action at all. This is most definately my problem as it would clearly explain why the lag. It would seem I was retarded (the motor actually) and experiencing lag until the mechanical/electrical advance kicks in. Now to find a working one to swap. The dealer has to order from Japan at the tune of 2 weeks and a bunch of $$ Will report back when I can get a good vac advance in there but I am very optimistic. garner

My chrome super stock adds 10 hp and unlimited bling. (actually I bought it before everyone started having problems.) Has anyone talked to accell or the parts house they bought them from, seems like there could be a manufacturing problem or maybe they are not a good match for subaru ignitions? garner

Search for delta cams, there have been a ton of post on them. Basically delta makes two grinds for EA82ts one is mild and is the most streetable. This is the grind many of the board members are using, they also make a monster "won't idle below 3500" grind that might be what you are interested in if you're going for hard core drag action. I can barely comment on what they've done for my build. I've never driven a stock cam EA82t and have just got my built one running (see my sig for details). I can say that despite some tuning bugs to work out, this motor screams. There is a flat spot between idle (which can only be held at about 900) and about 2000, then bam! pulls like a mofo. For drag applications with 3500-4000rpm launchs, you'd be really happy with it Also, call Delta cam and talk with them about what they offer, they're good folks and can give you more information in terms of tech issues and options garner

It's less than idel to use a scissor jack for anything but roadside tire changing. For your safely get a cheap floor jack $20-$30. You can jack up both sides of the vehicle from the rear diff for the back two tires and the front crossmember for the fronts. Use wheel chocks especially with scissor jacks. Once I had the front tires slip on the floor in my garage while jacking up the rear end. I was in the procces of putting the jackstands in place and as the front tires slid, the scissor jack tipped over and bam, the car just about crushed my head. If it was lowered, it would have. Don't do that!!! Oh and unlike Homer Simpson, never use a wicker basket as a jack stand!! Be safe, good luck

thanks rallyruss, that helps, as I obviously didn't understand. Just to make sure I do now: So under high vacuum, like engine braking, (higher revs, no throttle) the pressure drops, at no vac or under boost it rises back to normal pressure.. I'll test it as you explained and report back, I have a spare so I could just swap them and see what happens.... I imagine I can do a similar test to determine if the vac advance on the disty is working properly. I need one of those vac pump/guage type tester thingy, would be really handy right now.... garner

Tell me more about using MS as a fancy data logger, did you tie into all the sensors but not have the MS running the injectors. Data logging would help me tune my stock set up until I go fully sparked n' squirted. garner

I know subarutex is now dealing with some other issues but I thought I'd post on my progress. Since my last post I have: Plumbed everything properly, aav, bov and disty to ported source. Very important Reset my MAf to stock orientation. This was a huge improvemnet. Definately makes a difference on flapper MAFs. Borrowed boost and boost cut switches form mudrat and plugged them in. Went for several drives and here is the result: Idle at cold start up is about 1100-1150 after warm, it drops to about 900-950. works for me!! there is a bit of a "flat spot" from idle to about 2000rpm really strong from 2000 to as high as I dare rev it, I hit 7500 the other night, not trying to just looking for boost cut. not the recomender break in procedure I know.. while driving, once I rev up to 2000 through the "flat spot" she screams, tires smoke, back end gets squilley, neighbors give dirty looks. Good strong pull once boost hits at about 3000 pulls hard to redline and beyond. Keep on it and WAM boost cut....at about 8-9 psi shifting into second or third, occasionally and randomly, I hit what feels like boost cut well before I should. It is like the fuel is being cut out or just can't keep up. Fule pressure is exactly to spec under idle don't know what it does while driving and hitting boost (I have the guage mounted under the hood). My suspects: Fuel pressure regulator works at idle but perhaps does not rise the rate. It is a stock 1:1 rising rate and perhaps I have it to ported vac and it should be non-ported or vice versa (can't remember where I have it plumbed) If I remember correctly, the fpr uses vacuum to raise the flow rate. Also, if I remember correctly, ported vacuum raises consistantly with increasing engine speed, non ported raises then goes to pressure as boost kicks in? disty vacuum advance is not advancing consistantly. I will test this tonight. It seems these vac advance units are prone to fail so it may be an issue. Anyone else have any bright ideas? Its really close and fun as is but I've got to get it perfect by the show so I can really show it off garner

Cool!! I'm glad to see this coming together. I'd never heard of megajolt or megasquirt until oddcomp pm'd me a few months ago about making a pulley. Honestly, I thought he was nutz, i kind of still do;). Long story short, I've got al my megasquirt and megajolt stuff on it's way. I'm sold. When I was dealing with merging the wiring harnesses for my swap, oddcomp says "go megasquirt and megajolt, you'll be up and running sooner" He was right. As for the pulley, I am turning an aluminum version like my ultralight crankpulley. On my set up, I'm using juts the inner belt track/grooves. I know clearance will be better and can live with pulling the sensor when changing belts... Since the pulley will be aluminum, I'll use a press fit and perhaps some roll pins to keep the trigger wheel from rotating. Should be dandy. Anyway, keep us posted. Glad that someone will be the test pilot for this. Hope you'll share your maps and such when you get them close. garner

78turbobrat, Yep, the scoop and such loose the sleeper effect. then again the way this thing sounds with the cams, bigger turbo, exhaust, no way would anyone think it was stock....I'm still having some fuel delivery issue so 2nd and 3rd don't always pull smooth, I can guess it will be really loony toons crazy once she's all dialed.. bajavwsoobnut, get cuttin!! I think I know what your feelings are. I felt kind of bad cutting on a gen one, they are pretty rare and not getting any more common. I guess that's part of the reason I had to do the best fab job I could, (the other reason being the perfectionist thing....) Rallyruss, the only issue I'm having is what seems to be something like fuel cut similar to the over boost safety cut out. This thing happens kind of randomly, generally after a good strong pull in 1st and starting a pull in second. Its like I hit a wall, let of the gas and get on it again and usually it goes. I'm guessing the fuel can't keep up... Perhaps I'll take this issue to subarutex's "ea82t tuning geniuses.... thread. by the way, I don't think the TDO4 is a bad match for the ea82t, It seems to be a little laggy but starts to spool pretty good at 2500-3000 and pulls like a mofo. I think the monster tdo4 tratment would be good and I would seriously consider clipping and getting the shaft as balanced as possible to aid in spool up. A better header would help too. garner

yes, stock injectors for now, stock ecu for now as well. megasquirt and megajolt bits on the way....bigger injectors and fuel rails to come. It seems I have fuel issues....... baccaruda, the battery is under the bed, behind the passenger seat, wouldn't fit under the hood...thats the ea82t master cylinder with the ea71 vacuum assist....