garner

I could image that if the cap was loose, the rotor could have gotten totally smacked up or vice versa and once you tightened it down it couldn't convey the spark? A loose cap could, perhaps, (it's a long shot but maybe) have been the cause of your other tuning woes. It certainly wouldn't help. Megajolt! I doubt it's related but just out of curiosity, did your ticking HLA's (I assume thats what was ticking) quite down after the oil change? garner

I still have a bit of tuning to do. It seems like I occasionally, at random hit something that feels like boost cut at lower rpms. It's like hiting a wall. I'm guessing the fuel pressure can't keep up at times. When it works, it definately screams, as in breaks loose big time. I have to get front axles custom made so it's rear wheel drive now. Going to have to put some concrete in the bed to be able to hook up.... iluvdrt, the mandrel bends are here: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1327&prmenbr=361 and the silicone tubes are here: http://www.hosetechniques.com/mainframe.html the rest of the intercooler set up is made of some stock wrx bits and a modified samco y-pipe. I won't tell you what I spent because I don't, nor do I want to know.... spanky_pete, hands off my woman! garner

thanks, answers for you iluvdrt, -Pipes are stainless mandrel bends from Jegs -Intercooler is stock WRX tmic -TDO4 turbo. and yes, I made the flange and an "up a little further pipe" see it here: http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama/uppipe2 Just 8 psi of boost right now, Seems like plenty for a rig that handles like a radio flyer wagon. more to come once she handles garner

Ok, let me show off a bit. This has been such a battle but the EA82T in Gen one brat is running, driving, burning rubber etc. It also looks pretty cool under the hood... Behold.... http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama/underthehoody garner

yes, me too. I've been thinking about getting some cheap ebay sleeve over spring sets to play with. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7911162559&category=33582 I think it could work in the front but I'm clueless about how to deal with the rear on gen 1. I understand the torsion bar but it would be nice to have springs over struts in back rather than just shocks. garner

mick, you've got paypal!! I will soon have decals!!! garner

man, you need to get all mini-truckin' chop shop on that thing. Make it convertable or figure out how to make it a dump bed!!! Hydraulics, diamond tuck, crome wire wheels, you know, some bling! I've got to do something with the suspension on my Brat. As it is, if I push down on the rear bumper, then let go it bounces for like 10 seconds. Sitting on the bump stops would be an improvement.

Brandon, here's a pic of mounting a 5 or 6 point harness. The shoulder straps are critical. If they are too low, and you have a major front impact, you'll compress your spine and well, thats not good. Don't turn a safety sevice into a weapon. good luck

Nice!!! did you just cut the springs up front? Tell me more, I want to drop my brat as well. I'm trying to figure out a way to make sleeve over (ghetto coil overs) springs work. Gen 1 suspension has its limits ehh? garner

Yes, this would be interesting information for me and others. Anyone have a copy of Maximum Boobs, er uhh, Boost I mean... garner

Do you have a flapper style? If so, turn it 90 degrees clockwise so the hinge on the door is up and report back..... garner

Yes, my "up a little further pipe". It made the install of the TD04 and WRX TMIC work pretty well. I'll take some under the hood photos soon to show how everything lines up. This is an interim sollution until I can get to building a better header. I plan to do the crossover and up-pipe seperate like the wrx set up I believe the turbo is set about 15 degrees back. It leaks a little oil but I can't say its the angle or the condition of the second hand turbo? Not too bad eitherway garner

I don't really fit the EA82T tuning genius requirements and I don't want to hijack by any means but I have a very similar set up to what subarutex has and I am having some of the same issues. My set up EA82T Delta cams, torque grind TDO4 turbo (thanks NASIOC) WRX TMIC (Thanks NASIOC) WRX pown pipe custom intake, K&N cone 2.5 exhaust to cherry bomb muffler Lightened flywheel by 6lbs (I'm sure this doesn't help idle) I just got this thing running a couple of weeks ago and now I'm trying to get it to run well. First, I have the same no idle at cold start issue. Plumbed the AAV and BOV correctly, AAV from metered air, Bov recirculating. Now it idles well on cold starts, at about 1100 then drops to 950 or so once warm. The current problem seems to be some lag, I can deal with lag until I build a better header/uppipe. I may also have the tdo4 clipped a bit to get it to spool faster Once the turbo kicks in at about 3000-3500, it starts acting like it's out of gas, hesitates, jerks, sounds mad at me so I let off. I have no boost or overboost switch" so perhaps what Alltalk has brought up is causing this. I imagine the ECU needs to know that the motor is being boosted and that it needs to change the AF ratio. I will try to get those damn switches and see if that helps. Subarutex, are you using the boost and overboost switches? My other thought on my situation is the quality of the turbo? I bought it second hand and know nothing about it's childhood, perhaps it was abused? It leaks a bit of oil out the hot side and has a tiny bit of shaft play. I suppose if it doesn't spin really easily that could cause the lag. perhaps the fuel system is working perfectly but the air is not smoothly increasing in flow.... My other wonder, my MAF (flapper style) is mounted sideways. To make the intake work I had to rotate the MAF 90 degrees so that the flapper is up/down instead of left/right. It seems to me that the flapper is spring loaded, not gravity affected but I may be wrong. Subarutex, how is your MAF mounted or is it hotwire style? I hate to think the cams are the problem, If I remember correctly, Dennisex24 was running Deltas and an other than stock turbo with good results. From my very limited understanding of valve trains and cams, the torque grind (I don't remember the number) is pretty mild and designed to add power throughout the whole power band, not just top end. I will try everything to make it work before going back to stock cams. Anyway, this is not a happy subject, I know we'd rather be talking about how kick rump roast our cars are and how much rump roast they haul. I believe we can work through it and figure out whats going on

For what it's worth, as I reported, I was having the same problem. No idle at cold start up. In the last couple days I plumbed the AAV to metered air, and plumbed the BOV to recirculate. Presto, starts and idles cold (80 degrees in shop.) Now to figure out what causes the slugishness at about 3500-4000 rpm..... Anyway, worked for me, good luck Subarutex and thanks all for pointing out how I had strayed.... garner

Ahh, good thinking, I have mine with a breather pod of the intake side. Perhaps it does need to be metered air? Anyone know? garner

That would be a better way to test.... With the nipple on the spider open, perhaps that's too much of a vacuum leak... I don't actually no which way the valve works, perhaps it is normally open and in cold starts it closes to richen the mixture? That actually makes more sense. The problem with that theory is that you had the nipple on the spider plugged which would replicate the valve being closed and the mixture being rich... try your test and keep us posted. I would think that a cold start would be colder than a July day or evening in the PNW but I don't know what the engineers consider cold... garner

The Aux air valve is the do-dad that allows air to bypass the trottle body when the valve is open correct? My N/A spider has one, don't know about the rare turbo spider. The Aux air valve is supposed to help in cold start ups so it is worth looking into. Perhaps try disconecting the hose from the side of the intake to simulate the valve being in it's open possition? If it starts and idles well from a cold start, there's a good chance the Aux Air Valve is not opening when it should (cold starts). garner

I'll go with gold instead of yellow if that's easier for you garner

Doohh, good point, I forgot about that little detail garner

Mick, Can you make the USMB in yellow? If so I'll take two yellow and two black If not, I'll take two white and two black BTW, I sent an email to your aol addy, do you have the "BRAT" logo/graphic in some digital format? If so can you email it to me? thanks garner

Yeah, what about the cams? I understand that a low idle (800 rpm or so) is not possible with Delta cams but what kind of idle speed are people getting? I have sort of the same issue. My brat runs now (Whoo Hooo!) but at cold start up, it won't idle. Once warm, I can just turn the key, no foot on the loud pedal and bang, starts just like my Impreza. Do you have a A/F guage installed in that bad boy? I'd be interested to see what kind of mixture it shows cold and hot. Mine dances all over the place in cold starts then settles in to the rich side of stoich. Any obscure messages from the ECU? garner

I know a lot of you have seen this before.... The dark green gen 1 brat (aussies call them UTES) with the wrx drivetrain...five lug conversion etc, etc. I'm trying to get in touch with this guy to pick his brain about the 5 lug swap and street suspension on on my brat. Anyway, I found his website, not a ton of information but quite a few pictures, check it out.... http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kerrtw/ garner

way to go subaru (especially old schoolers) folks That was my first rally x adn I must say, what a freakin' blast. I ran my TS for time only and I'm still trying to get all the mud of it. Out of curiosity, what would be good tires for me to run to stay in pgt, I was thinking about regrooving my POS RE92s Any advice Good to meet a few of you folks from the board take care garner

I wonder if those really strong rare-earth magnets could be set in the front covers and screws in the rear covers?... Just a thought, those magnets are so frickin' strong I bet they would hold just fine. The other problem is the crank pulley has to come off. Perhaps one could make that piece into two pieces that are split down the center of the hole. I hate these things too but I will continue to use them garner

, don't forget the burnout of the month!!! LOL