garner

Holy Crap Craven, Good Eyes. How the hell did I no tsee those???? Those will be mine!!!! Please? No not the same guy but I bet they were made by him. I'll get the contact info for those of you that are interested in other gen fenders SunGSR, Can you look into that for us or provide links to companies that made fiberglass panels for early subaru? Thanks for the info guys garner

In general, my A/F meter (I know, just a ballpack approximation) runs well in the rich side of stoich. I need to go do these tests at night because the leds are hard to see the way I've got the guage mounted. Sometimes, the A/F just wanders, sweeping back and forth from rich to lean and back,. then it will settle down back in the rich side of stoich. The last time I drove it and tried to find this lag thing, It was super sunny so I couldn't tell what the guage was doing during and after the lag, maybe tonight..... garner

You go 78turbobrat!!! Destroy all Hondas!!!

It's so tempting. It's a rediculous quantity of money. But then, it's only money and I'm in this Brat for the long haul. My Fiance said recently "you'll have this Brat for the rest of your life won't you?" Of course I will. I could but another gen 1 (with issues) for $550. But then I think, how many gen 1 brats with built EA82T's in them do you know of with a pair of fiberglass fenders? The more I get into this project the more I lean towards the show car end of the spectrum. I mean, I want to drive this thing daily and fast but, I want it to look perfect too. I want it pimp. I want a carbon fiber hood(Thats a tall order I know). I want brown leather interior. Ohhh why did I even call the guy to see if by some off chance he had fenders for a gen 1....... I wonder what they'd take off a 1/4 mile time? garner

didn't even think about that, I will try the stock EA82T coil that I have, I assume it's good... we'll see if it makes a difference. garner

I'm working on the body on my gen 1 Brat. I have some pretty bad fenders. I am looking to get some good used fenders and should be able to solve the problem atleast until they rust out.... NOS is not an option, if they were, they would cost $160 each (old dealer price) Plus shipping. I've been in touch with a gentle man that has a pair of brand new fiberglass fenders. Supposed to be absolutely a perfect fit, made in a two piece mold, gel-coat surfaces, ready for primmer and paint....Obviously, if they are as stated, they would be so cool. Very tempting but obviously pretty pricy. Part of me thinks that even thinking about this, is an indication that I'm very very sick. I paid $800 for the Brat and now I'm thinking about paying 2/3s that for fenders?? What would you do? garner

the best thing is to sandblast what ever you can and get some sort of rust neatralizing primer on there. Locktight makes some stuff that I can't remember the name of right now that I've had good luck with. You have to get any flakes and scale off, paint this stuff on and it chemically neutralizes the rust, turning it into a paintable surface. Undercoating over that makes it pretty well sealed...I'll be doing lots of this on the Brat..... garner

Nutt, that's actually a pretty good idea as a test. I had it vented to atmosphere for a while but re plumbed it while solving a couple of other issues. It sure sounds cool for a Brat to make that whooshhtt sound on each shift. I might try that atleast to see if fuel is the issue. Suberdave, are you sure that the size of the IC to TB pipe was your issue? On the Spider intake TB the intake is 2.5o.d. (or metric equivelent) Is your stock TB smaller? How did you wire your light to an injector? I was thinking that having injector status lights would be helpfull and a good safeguard from having one freeze up and lean out / melt a piston? Does the light pulse with the injector or does it just indicate that there is power to it? When I was troubleshooting some earlier issues I was trying to figure out a way to determine if the injectors were working, I couldn't be sure that I was hearing them. ended up pulling them out of the manifold and watching them spray gas all over, not a good idea but it did help me detemine that two were not working.... Rallyruss, Spark is wicked good (accell hasn't' blown up yet (28 miles and counting!!)) and plugs look about perfect a little towards rich. Thanks for reminding me about the A/F falls lean indication. That really takes extreme richness to occur right ?(I read something about it some where). I'll try to get my better half to go for a ride with me tonight. You don't suppose the 5 gallons of 110 leaded race gas I put in my first tank of gas would have f'd up my O2 meter in 28 miles do you? garner

Oh WJM, I feel your pain/insanity.... I'm looking for gen 1 stuff, even worse. My parts guy here tell of the twice a year parts purge they do. Small stuff goes back to the US warehouse for credit. For the big stuff, fenders, hoods, etc, the district rep witnesses while the shop goon squad folds, hammers, mangles them and into the dumpster they go..... There is some NOS to be found as well as some aftermarket for gen 2 and newer (EA82) I can provide some links. http://www.3wave.com/arp/SUB.HTM#259 http://www.streetscene.com/clearance.html One place had 3 gen one fenders that they boughtin 2001, sold them out just a few months ago ($16.00 ea) Just keep as many spares on hand as possible, keep em out of the crusher, network with others with the disease and we'll all maintain. On the Impreza note: I love my 03 2.5 TS. With very minor bolt ons, (rsb, wheels, decent tires, springs) it handles like a dream. Very competative autocross car, fun to drive, and looks cool. New gen subarus are not the darkside, as long as you don't forget the roots. I see these posts on NASIOC by 17 year old kids that are modding their WRX and asking if anyone has seen a "Subaru Brat" referring to it as an old school BAJA... and I think, these guys should drive hondas..... garner

Oh man, I'm confused, I thought the TB ports increased vacuum with engine speed while mainifold went from vacuum at low revs, and negative vacuum at boost ? ? ? So with your RRFPR, where do you have the reference line pluged in, Manifold or Ported? garner

styles, I can't really comment on the swap but I'm sure it's possible... I might take the dr 5spd off you when you come down for your swap, PM me if interested, might help offset the cost of the XT6 tranny On another note, I have an EA82T front cross member if you need it for your swap.... see ya garner

Nice work Qman!!! it'll be at the WCSS I hope...not on the rally-x course though... garner

hey nels, how goes it? I was just talking with my buddy here at work and he thinks I might be one to something. Here is what I am going to try tonight..... Hook FPR vac reference line to a t in the wastegate control line. This is the only point in the systen that I can think of that never sees vacuum (maybe a very small amount but not much). I think this will make the stock FPR behave like a RRFPR until I actually buy one of those..... This could be a good thing as it would keep the pressure up more directly realated to boost and wouldn't lower with the vacuum pressure spiking.... I'll report back on my finding keep em coming garner

caboobaroo, Thanks for the offer, I might take you up on it. I'm pretty nuts crazy busy this week and next but I do want to make sure I get this sorted out by the WCSS. Btw, you going to have the minitruck brat there or....? garner

Thanks for looking into the info mecca for me... You talking about the fuel return line? or the reference line? What about this, run the FPR reference vac hose to the waste gate line so that under boost, it will raise pressure but would not lower under vacuum???? It's so funny what Subaru wants for thier parts. I found a bargain MSD adjustable RRFPR new for $45. It's not the fancy billet, AN fittings etc. Much like the stock unit but adjustable (base pressure, not rate of rise) garner

hey there subaru parts guy, can you look up the fuel system parts and see if there is any kind of check valve or something in the vacuum reference line? Your idea is a good one, I will study my FSM vac diagrams and see if anything is indicated on the reference vac line I got most of my stuff for this swap in boxes Twas a bit of a battle to get it all figured out and back together. There is a good chance there is something I don't have somewhere in the system I did a we bit o' surfing to determine the operation of after market RRFPR's it seems as though they do just raise under boost, don't lower under vacuum (that seems like a fuel economy device to me, lean out the mix at low power cruising) like the stocker garner

wjm, Yes, it seems lower shift points sort of make it go away but it really seems tht it's the speed at which the gas pedal is released and reapplied. In a quick shift at nearly any upper rpm (under boost) it will often do the lag/fuel cut/hit a wall thing. If the shift is more "normal city driving style" and there is 1-2 seconds between "off the gas" back on it, it is less likely to happen (I couldn't get it to happen last night anyway) This is tolerable and something I can live with but if I'm going to smoke ricer Hondas, and pull high 12's on the 1/4. I can't have this kind of thing happening..... So, on a technical note. I know the stock FPR lowers pressure under vacuum and raises it under boost. Do after market, adjustable raising rate FPRs do the same or do they just raise under boost? If they just raise under boost, I bet that would solve my problem... garner

No theories on why it would behave like this? Anyone like the fuel pressure regulator theory? Like the rapidly closing throttle creats a vacuum spike and as such fuel pressure drops rapidly and once it needs to raise again, it is one step behind.... Come one guys help me out with some "theories" or "ideas" At what point will mods outrun the stock injectors? Doesn't really seem like they are my problem at this point but just curious. Does anyone know the specs of the stock injectors? flow rate, etc? bring em on (ideas that is) garner

I've mentioned some of this in some other threads but thought I'd start fresh. Heres the situation.... Set Up EA82T Delta Cams Light Flywheel TDO4 Turbo WRX TMIC WRX BOV (recirculating) WRX gutted down pipe to 2.5 to "turbo" cherry bomb muffler Everything else, ignition, fuel delivery, etc is stock. disty to ported vacuum, FPR to manifold vacuum. Timing set to about 23 degrees, disty advance seems to work just fine... The issue Starting from a dead stop, I must sort of "launch" to get going. It will tolerate a gentle, traffic sort of take off, but with the flywheel and TDO4, the launch is the thing that get's you moving. It's hard to avoid breaking loose as I'm only RWD at this point, but Breaking loose in a brat is so much fun anyway.. So I accelerate in 1st, boost comes on, reach full boost power, oh the power...Hit about 6000rpm and shift Clutch, Let of Gas, shift to 2nd, let off clutch stomp on gas and here's where things get weird... Sometimes, not always, but sometimes I hit what feels like the overboost fuel cut. Just like hitting a wall, no power then all the sudden, power, oh the power.... Does not seem to happen shifting into other gears, atleast I haven't experienced it yet. I haven't taken it onto the free way to really accelerate 0-60 yet. I can't quite determine the exact combination of things which have to be in place for this to happen but I am leaning towards thinking that its when I drop the gas pedal, as in remove my foot completely as opposed to just letting off part way to make my shift. This is not turbo lag, it's a hard fuel cut feeling type of power loss. I need a co-driver to pay attention to the vac/boost guage and the A/F meter (which is hard to read in the sun). Generally speaking, the A/F meter wanders quite a bit, I don't know exactly why... What do you suppose causes this? -Is the stock fuel system not able to keep up at times? -Is the stock FPR not doing what it should (when I suck on the control vac line the pressure drops, when I blow, it raises) I don't remember what the exact readings are but it was within spec of the FSM... -Is it me, I mean the way I'm driving? As I said, I can't absolutely confirm this but it sees to be mor eprone to happen when I really let off the gas pedal. I am always going for a quick shift between 1st and 2nd and not so much between other gears Would it make sense that if I let completely off the gas, the throttle body shuts rapidly, vacuum goes up, fuel pressure goes down and when I shift and try to accelerate, the Fuel pressure regulator can't compensate and correct fast enough? Any and all ideas, hair brained or otherwise would be appreciated. It's a totally functional set up right now but I want perfection.... And I can only imagine what this would do to my trap times.... thanks garner

yes, do tell... and what about knock control? elaborate please.... in the ignition control department.... On the general idea, I do think you are insane, crazy and all that but just to motivate you to go for it I will say.... NO WAY WILL YOU BEAT AN STI IN THE TWISTIES!!!!! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PROVE ME WRONG!!!! I'll fly out there and race you in one of your dealership's STI (I'd prefer black) and you can leave the stock tires on.

My EA82T had the same bung on the up pipe. It stumped even the service manager at the local dealer. We dug through the mecca of FSM's in the "reading room" and found nothing about this second bung...He suggested that it may have been a Cal motor or perhaps JDM as none of the fed models had EGT in that era. The egt was used in some cal and jdm cars as an additional emmissions control. I bought a plug at the local muffler shop. garner

You mean the diagnostic plugs? under the dash? Is that part of the timing process??. My FSM tells me to disconect the knock advance harness connector (8 pin black round) as well as the vacuum advance hose (plug the hose so no vac leak), set timing (to 25) and reconnect..... Anyone else?? I do wonder is the problem is in the disty. How bad was the cap and rotor after you found the cap really loose? Is there any way the cap being loose could have harmed the disty. For example, if the cap and rotor were not close enough together, could you get arcing to the body of the disty or something? just a thought. If you could borrow a known good disty to swap in there, it would be worth the time. garner

Yes, the standard TB won't work. It may be able to be modified but... Maybe you should be the tester of the XT 6 TB to see if it will work... I think I have a spare XT 4 spider TB. if yer interested pm me garner

I can get these flanges. CNC plasma cutter...... I advise adapting a wrx dp (remove the cat first, I have an excellent technique that removes the cat in one piece) instead of bashing it into toxic dust/chunks) These are pretty great and cheap (nasioc) and a great piece of plumbing (the start of an open, 2.5" turbo back with the right flange). I don't know about your set up, but on mine, just a little cutting and rewelding, and perfect fit..... subyraly, check yo pm.... garner

Some ideas, some really bone head, not trying to insult yer intelligence, but I know how easy it is to overlook things (I do it all the time ) You are checking/ setting timing with the vac advance and knock control connector disconnected? Are you taking into account the mechanical advance when timing above the recommended 700 rpm=/-100. You have advances curve maps in your FSM? I can't remember what I set on mine but I found that at 1000rpm the mechanical advance is a few degrees advanced so I took that into account and set my timing to where it should be advanced to (22.5-23 degrees if I remember correctly. FSM says 25 btdc. Your vacuum advance unit works? You aux air valve works? There are no vacuum leaks or intake leaks? You've checked and have good spark, nice crisp blue? Your turbo uppipe leak idea is a pretty good one, replace gasket/or tighten the nuts down. Mine came loose from heat cycling in just a few hours. You might check the turbo out itself just to make sure it is turning freely. A bad turbo is unlikely but it would make for a really restricted intake. Have you gotten the ECU to give you any codes, could be really helpfull to know what it has to say. It might be worth a trip to the dealer or someone to check stored codes... man, I feel for you. Hang in there, it will be fixed and it will be worth while. Maybe now's the time to start working on MS and MJ:brow: It's hard to do but sometimes stepping away from it for a couple days can help. good luck garner