garner

Russ, Totally different body style I know but on the Brat, I had a similar problem with the DP, after gutting it, I cut a wedge out of the bottom of the tube right at the flange, bent the remaining metal and re-welded thus, tightening the angle of the top of the dp and getting the exit end of it to end up lower and clear tranny mounts etc.... Does that make sense? On the IC, What are you running into there? Some of the greatest prices I've ever seen on stainless mandrel bends are at http://www.jegs.com and http://www.stainlessworks.net Keep at it man, it's worth while.

Yep, the hard line(s) are just bent to get more length out of them. I remember them not taking a straight path from A-B, I just straightened up the routing and had more than enough length. The soft lines obviously can just be replaces with longer sections.... I did the riser pipe just as a quick way to get the turbo mounted in some usable fashion. I was not thinking about it as a long term sollution and as such it has some problems, namely, it is too large in id and the angle at which it places the turbo is a little extreme (approx 20 degrees from horizontal) I'm working on a header design of my own out of about $75 of SS mandrel bends. This will get the turbo where it needs to be and keep it more horizontal and flow like an SOB. I'll show and tell soon... garner

Tex, good to see Project RX is not Project RIP.....Can't wait to see it "done" Tell me more about your fuel cut issue, I just solved mine!!! garner

for real ? It doesn't look that big. As far as I can tell ffrom the research I've done, you don't want to go too big right before the turbo as it allows the gas to slow down and thus the turbo doesn't spin as fast/boost as quick etc. I learned this after I made my "up a little further pipe". When I redo it I'm using 1 5/8" id primaries and merge to a 1 3/4" id (it's 2" id now), just enough for the pulses to get in line in an orderly fashion before spinning the turbo... Anyway, for a fix on the cheap, I think you've done an excellent job and I'm sure this thing will flow better than the stocker. Now, to deal with that wacked merge point on the passenger side where the exhaust gas actuall enters backwards, POS cross over.... garner

Nice Work Russ!! can't wait to hear what you think about the set-up once it's on the road again garner

WJM, What are you up to now? I don't know what the set up will be for you but definately pay attention to the TPS, I assummed plug ang play but found it to be more like plug and flail. Can't wait to hear how the XT6 TB works out. Glad others can learn from my mistakes garner

The motor and harness/ecu were from an 85. The 85 uses the three wire TPS and flapper style MAF. The spider motors use a 4 wire TPS and hot wire MAF. The wires on the 3 wire TPS are blue/white, black/someother color and green/someothercolor. I switched the Blue and green wires, these are the two at the ends of the connector. Hope that helps garner

If you remember and or just read the first post I was having an issue with my EA82T. I was hitting what I thought was fuel cut, at random, usually associated with trying to accelerate hard and fast. I swapped out the accel coil, no difference Put in an adjustable RRFPR to get the fuel pressure up, no difference Finally set out to determine what the variables were that made this cut occurr. It turned out that virtually anytime I went close to WOT, it would cut out like hitting a rev limit or boost cut. I then had a vague recollection of a conversation I had at WCSS6 with reneisanceman(sp?) about swapping a spider manifold onto a motor with a 3 wire TPS. At the time, I wasn't sure what the big deal was, Everything bolted up and plugged right in....But then again it was WCSS It haunted me as I tried to fall asleep that night, I woke up early to hit the garage before work. Tested the TPS, it was adjusted perfectly, checked for any idle switch or WOT codes in the ECU, nothing. Then It occurs to me that I should check the wiring diagram to see which wire is idle and which is WOT. Turns out, when you move the TPS form the standard intake TB to the spider TB, it basically reverses the IDLE and WOT signal wires. I cut the two and swaped them around, went for a drive and whammo, no random fuel cut!!!! !!!! What was happening was this, at idle, it would run rich or advanced timing (computer thinking WOT) would run normal a little of idle and up. Once I got close to WOT, the TPS sent the idle signal and bam, not enough fuel or retarded timing. I'm still not sure what the ECU does exactly in relation to the signal from the TPS but I do know it doesn't like to have the signal reversed!!!! garner

Hey Noah, I can atleast answer part of your questions The flywheel is an adapted EA82 ground to XT6 clutch step. As you know, mudrat has put together a kit. PM him for more details. garner

Torxxx, You can do spark only with a nifty device called Mega Jolt Light Junior which operates the Ford EDIS system and provides full timing control and programable advance curves etc....Check out this site... http://picasso.org/mjlj/?q= Would work fine and provide some improvement I'm sure over the stock mechanical disty with vacuum advance... Personally, I'd swap to MPFI and do the MSn'EDIS route, then you can pitch the MPFI computer in the trash and have full control over spark and fuel. If you are one of those Carb lovers though, the MJLJ would be a big improvement. Odd you should mention it actually, when I didn't know spark control was possible with the MSn'EDIS so I built an MS and a MJLJ. Now I have a perfectly good MJLJ unit just sitting on my bench....

So, I've got my MS built and am preparing to wire it into the Brat. Words of advice to folks thinking about MSn'EDIS: When building the MS, use sockets for all the IC's a few of them are really easily fried by the heat of a soldering iron. I spent hours trouble shooting and replacing components until I realized one of my ICs was cooked. Sockets are cheap, my time is not.... Buy, build and use the relay board. It makes wiring super clean and easy and prevents the accidental damage of the MS or other components... Pay really close attention to every little component and follow the directions to the letter, it's really easy to reverse something or swap parts and it is a PITA to figure out whats wrong down the line... And for those of you who are running OSX on a mac or Linux, there is a great GUI tuning program called Megatunix which I have managed to get running on my iBook. It's an X-windows program that runs under X11 on Mac OSX...You do need to do some unix compiling but it's doable and you don't need a windows pc (yeaaa!!) I thought this was all very overwhelming when I started looking into it but having made it this far I can say, it's not too much if you have a little patience and a lot of desire. garner

I'll chime in here with my experience with the tdo4... I don't know about how the fitment would work with the standard intake but I only had to ovalize the back mounting hole on the tdo4 to get it to bolt to the stock up-pipe, the other two were dead on. With the spider and wrx intercooler, I needed the turbo up and back a little to make the plumbing as straight forward as possible and not spend a ton of money on silicone elbows. I know alot of you have seen this but here's my "up a little further pipe" http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama/uppipe2 and how he fitment worked out with the extra rise http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama/turbonow2 you can see that without the tmic, this is doable but It's really a clean plumbing job with it http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama/underthehoody The straight silicone tubes are fairly cheap but the elbows are like $30-$40, ouch! One expense that I couldn't avoid was the purchase of a used Samco y-pipe for the intercooler, it was impossible for me to get the stock hard plastic y-pipe to work as it is difficult to flex and or cut and lengthen.... I still haven't got everything dialed in the tuning department but I don't think the tdo4 is too big for the EA82T. I comes on a little latter than the stock units I've driven but with a reasonable cross-over/uppipe and a wide open exhaust, I think it will spool plenty fast. In a perfect world (one in which I had tons of money) I'd probably get some work done by deadbolt, mostly clipping and balancing. With the plethora of guys buying WRXs and upgrading turbos after a few K miles, tdo4's are almoast paper weight to them, I bought mine for $100 shipped. A could have gotten a stock unit for a little less but generally they have a few 100K on them and often leak oil or have horrible shaft play. Pay attention to NASIOC and act fast when you see one for a reasonable price. Be sure to get the person to declare there is no oil leaks and no extra shaft play, I think some of these guys upgrade after cooking there tdo4 so watch out.... Bottom line, go for it garner

hey wjm, sounds a bit like my issue we were hashing out a while back... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19502&highlight=garner I was sure it was fuel cut but now I'm, not so sure. I've really got to swap back to my stock coil and try it out. I just need to dig it out of one of my parts boxes. I think there's a chance you are experiencing a accel coil failure. It could be a simple test if you have a spare coil, swap it in and see if it goes away.... also, I'd check the plugs to see if there is any oddness there liek signs of richness or fouling etc... this seems to be a common issue so it would be great to sort it out. garner

wow, I missed this thread.... Glad to hear the tranny worked out and the wagon is back on the road... Hey, I'm just doing my part to support those with the subaru sickness I hate to sufer it alone... oh, and I've always got a beer or two in the fridge for any subaru nut who stops by..... thanks guys garner

We'll see about that!! Anyhow, yes, this board need fiberglass master that has the time and desire to reproduce part. I have a pair o fFiberglass fenders that should have molds taken off them as well as these flares and the air dam you have. The Flares are actuall kind of a complicated shape and might need to be made from a multi part mold.... garner

Yeah man! Tell it like it is.... garner p.s. it is still pretty damn cool. I'm not so sure about that way front mount intercooler/bumper.....

you hit the nail on the head Zapar!!! I bought them from McBrat. Apearently someone else was going to buy them but sort of fell off. I'm betting they might chime in here. I got them for a great price but should point out that there is a grease pencil $10.00 on them, I'm guessing they were picked up at a yardsale (score!!!) They are stamped on the inside "subaru 1979" but I don't know who made them...I couldn't find any pictures of Brats with them installed anywhere.... I do think they are worthy of making molds of (AdamNDJ, you out there?). Then one could produce sets that could be modified in any number of ways. I think they'd work great for lifted rigs too, although there are not a ton of lifted gen 1s. I'm torn between keeping them bone stock origional and modofying them a bit. I like the built in mud flaps but it's true, they are pretty damn low on my Brat. They do beg for some type of front spoiler and perhaps some side skirts and rear spoiler stuff. I've been looking at JY's for a while for body work kits off other cars that might be modified to fit the bill. thanks for the feedback guys, keep it coming garner

I bought a set of fender flares from a fellow board member (thanks mick!) and finally had a chance to get them clamped on temporarily so I could see how they looked. What do you think, pretty late 70s huh? Part of me love them and another part is not so sure.... While you're thinking about it, imagine when I do my XT-6 suspension swap and get the wheel track about 5 inches wider.... check it out.... http://usmb.net/gallery/album284 garner

I should have said: "great detective work, for a tractor mechanic" garner

Awww come on mudrat, let em have it!!!! I am keeping quite on this because I know what the problem was and I'm guessing it is fixed now? Ahhh the suspense is killing me but it looks like you're only in it for one dollar so far..... great detective work by the way.... garner

My EA82T brat has 550 miles on a full rebuild. I get 30 on the highway easy which is to be expected considering the motor is pushing a lot less weight than the ones in your wagons or RX's I am running it as rich as I can right now via adjustable RRFPR set to about 45psi. I'm sort of suprised it does so well with the mods done to the internals and the bigger turbo etc.... garner

No Way! Absolutely impossible..... Actually, it is a lot of fab work and wiring harness hell but it's possible. There where a lot of difficulties in the swap some of which I don't remeber at the moment.... As calebz pointed out to me when I was contemplating a motor swap into my gen 1 brat and I quote "anything will fit if you want it bad enough.." in fact, check this out if you haven't already: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kerrtw/ You can take a look around my photo album to get soem idea of the fabrication needed to shoe horn the EA82 in a gen 1. http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama garner

I will be able to tell you all about it in a few months. I bought a complete XT6 suspension that I will be putting under my brat. I have yet to actually get it up in the air and see where the XT6 things will tie in to the frame. I can tell you that the XT6 stuff is Way wider. I'm guessing it will widen the track of the brat by 4 inches or so. The outer edge of the wheels (impreza offset) will be out about 2 inches from the current location. Good thing I bought those fender flares). I will call it totally possible but I doubt anything will be "bolt on", with the exception of using the 79's mustache bar, the diff will bolt up to that. Lots of fabrication, such as building a strut perch for the rear coilovers. garner

I'm not using any of the vac lines on my set up. I have a single vac advance disty and can get the manifold or t-body vac that I need from the manifold itself. The other thing that is different and very important is the aux air valve. It is attached to the water pipe and unique to the spider as far as I know. I believe it takes the place of the do-dad on top of the thermostat on the standard MPFI intake. It is a bosch part that is used by a number of other automakers so it could be had at a JY if you know what you're looking for...