garner

moosens, check out this site, call them to see what they have. http://www.streetscene.com/fenders.html I was looking for gen 1 fenders for a while but they had just sold the last 3 @ $16 each:banghead:. As I understand it, these are NOS OEM. Call them, their website is a bit out of date it seems. They probably have things not listed and are sold out of things on the site..... Also talk with the guy that runs this place (Tom, I think). http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/subaru.html He had a pair of Fiberglass fenders for my Gen 1 Brat but wanted $550 = shipping (thank you ebay!!!) Good chance he might have something in glass or steel.. good luck garner

glue in's are a job for a profesional. definately want any problems to be theirs.... garner

Bling Bling man!!! seriously though, seems like a good score considering your current needs... bring it down to Eugene and lets do a turbo swap ok, I'm done playin you. After you get that ej20t GL wagon, lets turn this red one into a full blown rally machine.... I've done a couple windsheilds. Not too bad depending on the design of the gasket (which generally gets destroyed removing the old glass) Call some glass places and ask them to price just the glass and gasket as well as the whole deal installed. Sometimes it's just $20-$30 more for the install and when it leaks or they break it during install, it's their problem.... garner

Thanks WJM, Looks like the clearance issue wouldn't have been too bad for me on my Brat...Oh well, I've got mine built anyway. Whats the Boost point with the new set up? IE when does boost come on and when do you hit max boost? I know you said the mid-range is awsome but when exactly are you getting there? garner

Tex, Thanks for the props, I always knew my BFA and MFA in sculpture would get me somewhere (seriously, it's how I learned to do fab work) Yes, I think 1 3/8 would be perfect, then just a tiny bottle neck to 1 1/4 after the merge. btw, this pipe merges right at the turbo but its an oval probably 1 5/8 x 1 7/8.(too big) I understand the TWE is 1 7/8 id, thats too frickin big by my understanding at least for those of us who don't have ceramic bearing turbos...... I ran it tonight for a little cruise still hauls rump roast but a touch on the laggy side. I'm hitting full boost (no boost controller ~ 7.5 lbs at about 3500 ish). Once on boost, it screeams but it would be nicer to get there a little quicker. well, off to my little bros wedding, no more tinkering this week.... garner

Is your RX even running? Sorry if I'm rubbing it in or.... The problem you would face with the is downpipe would need to be modified as the angle and possition this thing puts the turbo is quite a bit different.... Oddcomp, You're right, I drilled the holes like 1/2" for the 10mm studs, think thats enough? The damn thing could probably rip the heads off if it wanted to..... garner

russ, I did eliminate the "up a little further pipe" It's available now as a tdo4 adapter kit Yep, four bolt is good but ther is one that I have to screw with a bit to get a nut on the stud, it leaks right there now In running it a bit last night its pretty obvious to me that the id of these weld elbows and 1 1/2 sched 40 pipe is too big. Probably would have been better off with 1 1/4 sched 40 as the id would be about 1 3/8" It could be the leak I've got, but boost is latter than it used to be, man it revs like crazy though. I'll drive it tonight and see how it goes. Well, one step forward 3/4 of a step backwards..... garner

I got 'em in eugene but you could get'em from mcmaster carr... WJM, "copy cat" well, sort of, I might have bought the TWE pieces but in my situation, I am pretty sure I would have had serious clearence issues, so I built to fit.... we'll see how it works.... garner

Yep, I'm thinking no bigger than 1 3/8" ish ID would be good. I had a bunch of these stainless pipe fitings that are schedule 40 304 stainless so I used them. The good is the wall on these things is really thick so it'll get hot and stay hot, moving exhaust faster. The design is pretty close to "tuned length" The bad is they are like almost 1 5/8" id... What would you think would be a good id? I'll report back when I get to run it.... garner

So after trying to chase down an exhaust leak, I decided to finish up the header/crossover pipe and ditch that POS stock pipe. I think TWE said it best by refering to it as an ugly piece of bathroom plumbing. It's true, I cut off the heat sheilding to see where the crack was and I almost got sick..... check out this pos..... http://usmb.net/albums/album290/P6160096.jpg They don't look too bad with the heatsheilding covering the super skiny (like 1.125" id) elbows and that "uppipe" area (I understand what you were saying now Russ) So anyway, I got Mike (mtsfab) to cut me some beefy 3/8 SS flanges and finished welding up the sched 40 weld elbows and straights. I forgot to take some photos before I wrapped it in heatsheild but you get the idea http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160094?full=1 http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160095?full=1 I just got it back on the motor and I'm making some adjustments to my ghetto exhaust so everything will bolt up. I'll let you know how it flows and how it effects boost/lag I am going to guess that it will be a little laggy as there is more volume than stock. the Id of the tube is bigger than it aught to be as well but this is just the first draft...... garner

Yep, one could do that...... garner

EESCC= Emerald Empire Sports Car Club The local auto-x club in eugene I keep you guys posted for next year garner

87.5 and newer XT garner

If you give me a while, I'll write an "all about the spider intake"....it will take me a week or so and I'll try to get pictures too... garner

That's not a bad combo but that an EJ motor will not bolt up to an EA tranny, unless you buy an adapter kit from Mudrat garner

Ahhh, I thought this was a new set..... garner

As I understand it, The 260/677 (I think that's right) they call it the Torque grind is the only version that doesn't require shims. The other two are more aggressive (less street-able) and require shims to avoid lifter tick. I must say, I am relaying this information 2nd or 3rd hand. I'd call them just to be sure your particular grind doesn't require shims. I'm not implying that Delta cams are anything less than fabulous, it's just that I know of atleast one set that was wacked.... garner

Cause I didn't want to have to compete against you... Actually, it was a EESSC members only event and you couldn't become a member this late in the season. Next year it might be worth the $20 membership but you you'd have to run an Auto-X or two earlier in the season. You can crash at my place Ed.... garner Yep Styles, I'm da man

WJM, GO MAN GO!!!! When you get a chance, talk to Delta and or send those cams beack to them. I've heard of a few problems and I wonder if they are F%$#ing up their grinds some how. They make 3 grinds for the EA82 and two of the three require shims under the HLAs..... garner

The local Eugene Auto-X club holds a year end event they call "Fast Grass". Its similar to rally-x with a few major differences.... -Shag your own cones (with the clock running of course) No course work!!! -No Water Truck!!! (very fast and great traction even with street tires) and best of all, I didn't even have to wash my car after several runs... -$10 for atleast 10 runs (you could run about as much as you wanted) -Very open course with only about 20 cones total -Morning runs in one direction, afternoon, same course in opposite direction. I had a blast but after rolling the bead on my left front tire (215/40/17(ie, no side wall flex) I decided perhaps it was getting a bit rough to be hammering on my daily driver. I retired after about 6 runs along with a few others. some pictures of me: http://usmb.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album226 garner

Will, I had the same problem on my TMIC/ Spider install. I cut a wedge out of the throttle cable bracket so I could bend the bracket down. Does that make sense? It allows the throttle cable to approach the TB a bit lower, right under the BOV. I'll take pics if you need them.... gluck garner

Flow, What was the deal you set up with John? What were you getting and what did you pay for it? If I remember it was a gen 2 Brat that he added a lift, bumper(s) and a roll bar sort of thing? What was the agreed upon price? garner

The divorced waste gate dump pipe helps keep the main exhaust moving smoothly. In the stock DP, when the waste gate dumps, turbulence is generated and can lead to slowing down the turbo (in theory anyhow) Check out some of the WRX after market DPs like the one made by Perrin:slobber: http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/downpipe/downpipe.htm I'd keep the 02 sensor as close to the turbo as it is now, keep it hot so it reads... garner

If I remember correctly, mudrat's rally-x jalopy (RX sedan) is running 2.5" from the turbo, with a divorced waste gate dump pipe. At about the point that the exhaust clears the tranny mounts, it goes up to 3", no cats, no mufflers, all boxer!!! It's a monster It's not too loud unless you're really on the gas hard. Nice thing about turbos is that they "chop up" the exhaust into smaller pulses so not as loud as NA motor Back pressure is not as much an issue with turbo motors but if you look at high performance exhausts for WRX's 3" is as big as they get. garner

Please let us know how these work. I was thinking about fabing up some solid mounts when/if my black goo treatment breaks down. If the solids are too harsh, what about adding a 1/4" of medium density rubber to the top and/or bottom to provide a little cushion? garner