garner

Myx yes, you want one washer on either side of the "banjo" fitting. New ones might be smart... torque=22ftlbs garner

MS & S extra will control spark on an EJ, it's been done on hardcore sand rail motors. I believe the general approach is to add the Ford edis wheel, vr sensor, control module rather than try to tie into the stock subaru trigger mech. Have a search around MSEFI.com and see if more detail is available.... Yes Brad, you are a traitor, but we still love ya man.... garner

Yeah, now that I have decent engine control, I'm into boost at about 2200 and at full (10psi) at about 3500 or so, not bad at all. Before, with the stock ecu, it was more laggy. I was afraid my home-made header was too big (it is a little....1.625") but I think the ecu was just confused. I had some TPS issues that didn't help... As far as the WRX TMIC goes, I think it's a pretty good unit. While datalogging in Megatune (MS tuning software) It seems to keep the intake air charge at just a few degrees above ambient as long as I'm moving..... All in all, I think the TDO4 is pretty well matched to the EA82T, and they're a hell of a lot easier to find with low miles..... garner

Bump, Just wanted to check in and see what people's experiences are..... Russ? Caleb? (you're up and running now aren't you?) garner

Another vote for an RX. Sort of the WRX of it's day shouldn't be too hard to find for under 1K garner

Myx, Get that shiz installed man!! Yer killin' us!!! garner

Nice!! Real numbers!! Hats off to you!! Is that about what you expected? I just found out the only Dyno in town is out of commission. I have to go nearly 100 miles to get to a dyno, one of these days.... good work garner

Oddly enough, My ECU is from an auto and my tranny is Manual as well. I know there is some way to "tell" the ECU it is in a manual car but I never looked into it too deeply. garner

Right on RallyRuss and Cougar!! It was the charge light!!! finally traced out the light from the Brat dash and connected it to the ALT. Started, idled 14+ volts, turned on all lights, heater etc, went up. It even went up with revs!!! In other words it works just like an alternator should. Problem solved. If only I'd listened to you guys a couple days ago..... The wierd thing is as I posted, I've put 500+ trouble free miles on this thing with no charging issues. I mean always had juice to start, wouldn't discharge and die while driving, etc. I can't even begin to speculate on why I was lucky enough to not have this charging problem for those miles.... Oh well, it's fixed and there's no reason to "look a gift horse in the arse" Thanks again guys, several heads really are better than one garner

that looks cool Corky. I'm sure some yaahoos around here will tell you it needs a 10" lift.... But seriously, are you thinking tube frame, sort of like the LoCost 7s and 11s people are building? Aluminum body work? Are you going get/build an english wheel for that? Anyway, looks like a cool project and although the sketches are still, well, sketches, I can see it, and I want to drive it good luck with the garage/shop garner

Thanks AUsubaru, you've confirmedwhat I've figured. The 85 FSM is very vague about wiring and especially wire colors, but you have described my wiring perfectly. As for the light, I have never had on connected in this set up and I have put 500 perfectly sucsessful miles with no charging problems. In my research, it does seem the charge light is important/crucial to the circuit (I had no idea at the time I did the swap and all the wiring). I cannot figure out how things could work for 500 miles and not now.... Had the Alt checked again last night at two parts houses. One had the new generation touch screen computerized tester, the other was old school analog....Both showed 14.5 volts off the alt. How does the field influence charging out put? Is it's voltage in constant battery voltage or does it raise and lower to adjust output voltage? I have consistant Batt voltage coming in via the field but it seems not to vary with engine speed. This is again, without a charge indicator light connected. On a related note: Is it the alternator that controls the on and off operation of the indicator light? or is it somehow controled through the ECU. Just trying to understand the circuit and figure out how the light comes on with the key in the "on" possition and shuts off once the engine is running/alt is charging. One interesting thing I discovered last night: I checked codes from the stock ECU and got a code 13 (starter switch in on possition) I don't know that this is really any clue but it did give me something to think about. I'll track that down tonight. It makes me wonder if there isn't a problem with either the ignition switch, which is certainly a bit suspect anyway or maybe the "on" and "start wires are crossed or shorting to each other. Maybe there is just an extra drain form the starter circuit while running??? We'll see. I'm tempted to just totally rewire the charing circuit from end to end. It may take that, but I'll save it for a last resort. Thanks for slogging through this with me, certainly not one of my favorite topics to troubleshoot and post about. garner

Oh yea, I guess with your Garret BB turbo maybe lag won't be an issue.... what did that thing cost? garner

Wow, that's big, let us know about lag.....I made mine 1 5/8 in and out. It flows like crazy but boost comes on quite a bit latter than before garner

hey!!! wtf? Just kidding, no offense taken. I could actually sense your shudder when you handed me the 2nd in Gen 1 trophy at WCSS6..... btw, it's going to be even lower next year w/5 lugs....and putting down lots of HP, I won't speculate until I have real #s garner

OK did some more scientific testing last night and I think, perhaps, I've determined the Alt is indeed bad. Here is the test proceedure that I performed: remove the ALT output lead to isolate the voltage off the stud (ie to be sure the voltage I was seeing was not off the batt) tested voltage in 3 locations: 1. Battery/Alternator output lead (I will refer to this as BAL) 2. Alternator Output Stud (AOS) 3. Field (tested from the back while connected) tested in 3 states, Off, Running, and After Running Off: BAL=12.96v(this was after a breif charge to get the batt into the 12s) AOS=12.39v (this seems wrong to me, why voltage out the stud with the car off and the battery disconnected from the alt? Field=12.96v (perfect) Running: BAL=12.45v AOS=11.93v (went down slightly with higher RPMs) Field=12.45v (again, perfect) Off After Running (about 5 min) BAL=12.81v AOS=12.25v(again, why voltage out the stud with the key off and batt disconnected)(after recennecting to BAL, voltage=12.81 Field=12.81v Conclusion: I am really only puzzled by why there is voltage present on the Alternator Output Stud with the key off? I am guessing there should not be voltage leaking from the feild to the output stud? I'm going to the parts house tonight after work, if this freekin thing tests out good, I'm going to What thinkith ye? garner

Just the put it on the machine kind of thing (out of car) I don't really know how good and accurate these tests are... garner

I don't remember the exact voltages last night but the current out of the alt and the field current in were nearly identical (within a couple of .01s) with the engine running and very close to battery voltage. This was with both the field lead and the warning lamp lead disconnected. I forgot to turn the headlights on high etc to generate a decent load..... Should the field voltage fluctuate or be constant battery voltage? With my wacky harness swapping action involved with my set-up, I have the charge light in the dash from the origional harness and the connector from the EA82T harness connected to the alt but the two are not connected, does that make sense? I need to make that connection just in case it is the source of my problem. I suppose I could also just rig up a warning light under the hood to make sure the field cirquit is complete... I'll do some more head scratching and maybe a little less and see if I can figure anything out tonight.... It sure seems like it has to be the ALT but I really don't want to go to the auto parts house to have it test ok again. garner

Glenn, The field is the heavy wire a the top of the T right? And it should bring battery voltage in to energize the field correct? And just to make sure I am conceptualizing the function of the alternator feild, it is basically a current that generates an electro-magnetic force that allows the alt to generate power? I tested a bunch of stuff last night. I can confirm that the battery is not draining and that the charge from the alt is not sufficient. I'm seeing no rise in voltage off the Alt at any rpm, infact it goes down consistently, until I let it idle, then it creaps back up to about where I started. Thanks Jerry, actaully during the swap, all my charging wiring was swaped to the EA harness, but I should have a look for these rouge fueses you speak of This is so strange because I have really not done anything to the charging system since I installed the motor, I can't believe I've been able to put 600 miles on it without issues..... One question/thought: In the research I've done, it seems the "charge indicator light" is somehow in the cirquit and is more important than just being an "idiot light" ? My connector is connected to the alternator but not to any dash light? Could this be a problem? Could it allow everything to work fine for a couple of 200 mile trips (to WCSS6 and back) but slowly cook the alternator? garner

myx, I think he meant one nut per side. That's what I meant too garner

Hey I geuss I can say I have an Electric/Gas hybrid!!! Only 20 miles per charge is not great though. actually, it occurs to me, I might not be looking at the rght connectors on the alt. (yes EA82T alt) I've got 4 wires on the Alt: 1.) large held on with a nut (white in my case) possitive going to the starter/tying into the battery possitive (my battery is relocated in the back of the Brat) 2.) large Black held on with a nut going to Neg of battery 3&4.) are in a connector T shaped heavy black on top, light white with red on bottom Which wire is providing the charge? garner

My Brat is driving me a little crazy.... Here's the deal: New alternator (less than 600 miles) New Battery (about 800 miles) Both have been tested by two Auto Parts stores, out of the car. Battery dies while driving. I mean, the motor starts to miss, lights dim, dash lights dim, etc.... I've been doing some scientific monitoring of the battery voltage at various stages Here's a time line and battery voltage(s) Taken with a digital multi tester off the alternator, possitive on large bolt down possitive lead, negative to body of alt. Key in "OFF" Sun 12:00 midnight 12.96 volts Mon 8:00 am 12.94 volts Mon 7:00pm 12.93 volts Run for 20 minutes 12.15-12.40 volts, bounces around, voltage drops under quick revs but settles back up to mid point Mon 7:30pm (shut down) 12.70 volts Mon 8:00pm 12.71 volts Mon 8:30pm 12.72 volts Mon 9:30pm 12.71 volts Tues 9:30am 12.65 volts This was all done at a stand still in the garage. If I drive like out to mudrat's and back (15-20 miles) and make a couple stops, I can barely get home, starts to miss and act funky about 1-2 miles from home. Do these voltage drops seem out of line to you? Shouldn't voltage off the alt while running be higer than 12 volts? Shouldn't the voltage off the alt go UP while at higher revs? Is there something I'm missing? WTF is my problem? garner

Myx, I haven't installed a Techworks Header but I have installed one I made myself so I'll chime in here Yes, Those look to be the motor mount nuts, You will likely need to remove them completly to jack the engine up. Jack the engine up by the oilpan with a piece of 3/4 plywood between the jack and the oilpan for protection. The stock header is a b*&%h to remove, I remeber laying on my creeper under the car while twisting, pulling, yanking cursing. I eventually got it but it was snug. I had to jack the motor up probably 3-4 inches. Oh yea, don't forget to remove the pitching stopper on top (AKA stiffy bar) Now, My questions for you, What inside diameter is the primary tubing and what diameter is the output to turbo hole? Get that shiz on there and get back to the dyno, I want factual #s!!! garner

I respectfully disagree, read below clipped from a post by ALL_TALK, an explanation of the "pressure switch(s)" Page 80 in volume 2 of the 1989 FSM. This clearly explains that the "pressure switch(s)" not only send a heavy load signal to the ECU cancelling the AFR feedback control and the other sends an over boost signal which initiates fuel cut. Further, the waste gate valve control you speak of is really an alltitude compensator not a boost controller. It simply allows the turbo to develop stock or near stock boost at high elevation/ low oxygen environments. See page 82 of the same FSM. As for the RRFPR!!!!! WHAT THE HECK I meant an adjustable where base pressure can be turned up so your base starts at 40psi or so. (and I, like RallyRuss believe this to be a band aid) All I'm saying is the stock ecu is not prepared for 14psi boost however it "sees" it. If you could "hide" this level of boost (like when you unplug the over boost switch) from the ecu AND give the injectors more fuel pressure behind you MIGHT be able to boost in the 14psi range without burning holes in yer pistons..... have fun garner

I know you don't want to hear this but I have the sollution, it's called.... MEGASQUIRT I really don't think you can get the stock ecu to deal with the higher boost and not fuel cut....You may find some help from a RRFPR at like a 1:1 ratio but you have got to get the ECU to ignore the boost level garner

who makes it? where you buy? garner