garner

That tranny is definately 3.9 and that's the diff you need. I'm surprised something hasn't busted yet.... garner

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~kerrtw/

Yep, EDIS is the way to go. The MS&S extra code will utilize a number of ignition triggering systems, Hall effect, optical, edis etc. I'm going edis with the trigger wheel mounted to the crank pulley. I really look forward to tuning the ignition to perfection. For now, since I can't get real tuned ignition maps for an EA82T, I thought I'd get it running on the stock advance curves and tune from there. I started creating a map based on the stock curves and it seems to make sense. When I get it done, I'll post it and see what others think garner

Thanks Naru, Oh yes, that makes more sense that -mmHg is vacuum and mmHg is boost. I just got it backwards thinking -vacuum=boost. When I look at the curve it makes sense that under boost, I would want to retard.... Maybe, I'll plot out my ignition map and see if it makes sense before I try to run the motor on it.... garner

Based on about the same level of evidence as you, I concure they are about 180. This is assuming that the XT6 and EA82T have the same flow rate This is based on Myxlplyx having posted a sheet having had his xt6 injectors cleaned and flow tested. Anyway, they are still too small I edited my previous post just too keep things real garner

In preparation for switching to Megasquirt and Spark I'm trying to figure out what the stock timing is on an 85 EA82T. I have an FSM and have an image the curve of the Turbo disty and I'm a bit confused. Check this out If I set my timing to 25 degrees BTDC, how are these advances acting on it or, specifically: Is the total advance the sum of the vacuum and disty speed advance? the average of the two? or ? For example, If I am at 3000 rpm and -300 mmHg (boost) where is my timing? -25 +10 +10 = 5 degrees btdc? Or? or how about at 250 mmHg and 1500 rpm -25 +5 -5 = 25 btdc? Also, I assume when setting the timing, with the vacuum advance line disconected, if I set my timing to 25 btdc at 1000 rpm, about 2.5 degrees of that is from the disty speed advance? As you can tell from my ramblings, I don't really understand this Disty advance stuff. Please give me a schooling. garner

I am sure the stock ECU would get very confused by larger injectors but I feel that the injectors are a major bottle neck in the potential performance of the EA82T. If I understand correctly, the stock injectors flow 180cc/min...correct me on that if I'm wrong. (Corrected, thanks calebz) Check out this handy injector sizing chart from the Megasquirt pages http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/minj.htm#size scroll down a bit and you'll find it. Even if we are realistic and hope for 150hp out of an EA82T ( I want 200 ) The stock injectors can't keep up with the engine's needs. These figures are for NA engines, turbos should add 10%. And these are MINIMUM figures. With the additional 10% for turbo, we are looking for about 250 cc/min minimum. So stock injectors are about 75% of what is needed for 150hp Bottom line, stock injectors are way too small!!! Sollution? Megasquirt or some after market engine control and bigger injectors (I'm goin' stock WRX injectors and custom rails about 375cc) Using Megasquirt I will be able to control the pulse width and opening time to dial the fuel up but not to far....

I can say that my EA82T Brat is/can be pretty scary. I don't have near the HP or weight of a EJ20T in it but yes, stopping is an issue. Not to mention general handling is like that of a Radio Flyer wagon. At the moment, it is a great straight line rig but not something I feel comfortable rallying on the twistys. Later this winter, I'm swapping in Front and Rear XT-6 suspension to try to make this thing handle. discs all around, power steering, decent shocks (I've got a set of Tein coilovers I might use). I hope this swap will give it a little more grip and a lot more stop... So yes, I can imagine the WRX'd Brats are scary as hell, but pretty damn fun too..... garner

Marck, If you look at all that mess of steel spegetti, and trace the lines, those are just used for routing vacuum back and forth to both sides of the engine/engine bay. I believe the line you have pointed out is a vacuum line going to the charcoal canister POS. In my install, I ditched the canister, egr, etc and use none of the hard vacuum lines on the manifold. I get vacuum / reference off the spider or TB for these few things disty advance tranny (5sp push button) RRFPR BOV Depending on how much or little emisions stuff you want/ need, you can likely bypass all the hard vacuum lines garner

Thanks Myxlplyx, I turned the pulley on my 1950's South Bend lathe. Turning them by hand take a ton of time....like 5-6 hours. They are therefore pretty expensive. I'm working with a local machinist to see what he can make them for on a really expensive CNC turning center. He owns all this equipment but just does machining as a hobby out of his garage. He's not opposed to making one or two at a time so hopefully his price wil be reasonable. No problem to add a step to press fit a 36-1 trigger wheel. The one I made for myself is a single belt (No AC) version with the trigger wheel mounted outboard. garner

That sounds good. I just need some baseline starting points. For example, I don't know the flow rate of the stock injectors... Even a screenshot of your constants page(s) would give me a good start.... I just finished building my ignition/injection harness to connect the relay board to the motor. Super clean. 18 wires total!!! and I know exactly where everyone of them goes!!! I can't wait to rip out the stock wireing mess I currently have...... garner

Yep, Stop by if time permits. I'll be around and off work. It would be cool to compare tdo4'd rides. I should be running strong by then..... garner

doooood, I NEED MAPS (or atleast your REQ_FUEL) I'm ready to start trying to start running MS & S extra but have no idea how to map fuel. I have the spark figured out well enough but I'm clueless about fuel. I'll help out with documention once I actually can say I know what I'm doing (sort of). email me garner

hey, if you want a small diversion off I-5, swing by Eugene for a or two..... garner

Apple C (cut) Apple V (paste) garner

yes, let us know what they say in terms of price for the longer studs. If it helps, maybe we can get a few people together on this and do a group buy thing..... garner

yes, Hm.... I'm really interested in copper but this might be cool too.... keep us posted garner

Yes I got them. They look absolutely brand new but have different retainer caps than the OEMs. I've only installed the passenger side as it was the loudest. I should have replaced the oil pressure relief springs while I was at it because as it turned out, that was really my problem. She's quiet as a clam now (well, a really angry clam). Highly recomended and way easier/ better than rebuilding them yourself. And cheap!, I think I payed under $50 shipped. Would have been cheaper still if I had a set of cores to send them I wouldn't hesitate to recomend them http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm garner

Tex, Keep us in the loop on the prices etc of copper hgs and head studs. If it was possible to set up a group buy deal I very well might be interested and bet other EA82T nerds would be as well....Might save us all some dough compared to going it alone... garner

I believe all the difference lies in the pressure plate. It is beefier but WJM is correct, just a bit. The step on the flywheel is shorter by a tiny bit. WJM, did you have your flywheel step shortened when switching to xt6 clutch? Bottom line is, it is stronger and better grabbing but it's no race clutch garner

Here's another option for you rebuilt lifters for $5.75 ea!!!! http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm I feel your pain, here's one of my rants. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21477

It seems to me that your wagon's issues may very well be of an electronic nature. The Subaru ECU is stupid and easily confused and won't tell you what is wrong with it other than some lame morse code kind of communication. With MS once you got it installed and dialed, you'd atleast know what is really going on with the motor. I mean if it's not getting a signal from a sensor, you'd see it on your laptop or if some sensor is way out of range, you could tell. You can even datalog while driving and graph various engine parameters in real time to see exactly what is happening and under what circumstances...... It's not a plug and play sollution, in fact it's taken me months of reading and tinkering to get to the point that I have a clue how this willl work and what "tuning" really is. (and I haven't even started yet). garner

Tex, Buying the assembled kit from RS is cheating!!!! You must build it yourself and mess things up and spend many hours doing this Just kidding, I don't think it was an option when I bought my massive bag of random electronic do-dads.... The Relay board is a very good idea, some have done without but it makes the wiring realy simple if you use it. You might want the megastim for set up and testing, probably won't need it with a preconfigured/assembled unit. If you needed one, you can borrow mine. I think you have it all on your list, make sure you get all the connectors with the JY stuff. They're hard to find. The only sensor you will have to buy is the Air Intake Temp sensor. Your four wire TPS will work. The Subaru Coolant temp sensor will work with some computer hackery. Shadow wrote an .inc file to compensate. I bought a MSD edis coil and I will need new plugwires to make it work, not sure about the stock ford coil..... I can make or modify a stock pulley for you, pm me and we can work something out. Take the plunge, I just got most everything wired into the Brat, not controlling anything, just watching the computer watch the motor, very cool, soon to get it running of the MS.... I assume you know about it but Megasquirt Forums is pretty handy garner

This might help as well.... garner TPS.pdf

WJM, you should have knocked on wood before posting that....I guess it did outlast it but by just a day..... Tex, hang in there and don't assume the worst until you see big chunks of aluminum in the oilpan.... I bet you would have heard a lot more than a pop if you lost a piston or rod or rings....It could very well be (and we are all hoping it is) something simple like a timing belt..... Get into it and let us know what the deal is....... good luck garner