garner

Equal length will be a pita unless you have a very tight mandrel bender. I build mine out of stainless weld elbows and straight pipe (from coyote steel) check it out http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160094 The pipe is 1.5 schedule 80 (i think) the id is 1 5/8 which is too big but it flows like a mo fo If I were to do it over, I'd go for about 1 1/4 or 1 3/8. reguardless of the id the design is far superior to that pos bathroom plumbing thing they car a header. garner

I bet I know what you'll be doing on your b-day.... wrenchin on some old subaru... have a good one and here's one from me garner

The step needs to be machined for maximum gripping power. I had mine done at the same place mudrat gets er dun. Other than that, no issues, simple bolt up. I can't remember what the dimensions are but I believe it was about .020 taken off to make the xt-6 pp grab. I think Skip has some more insight on this, maybe he'll chime in..... garner

Or skip the whole deal and go MEGASQUIRT (sorry, just had to bring it back up....) I really doubt a wrx maf will work with the stock ecu....

oh man, you should have seen the body roll!!! and the front tires pitching to about 10-15 degrees possitive camber.... man that was awesome. still did pretty well for being "mudrat" and not "tarmacrat" garner

Nice work gentlemen!!! That looks sweet to have some trees to camp under. It was freekin hot and sunny last year at hood rive (the lack of shade was my only complaint about HR) I'm still down for coordinating the production of the glasses/mugs. I'll be in touch. Now, back to the shop, must finish project by July 14th garner

and/or puking tons of oil into your intake. ask subaru_styles about the 2 cups of oil he drained out of his intercooler...... garner

Subiesport magazine just published the 3rd of a 3 part tech article covering just this topic. well written and lots of photos. Great magazine too.... garner

I just switched to Royal Purple in my Impreza after winning a free case from Subiesport magazine, *cha-ching* youv'e gotta love that price... So far so good. Funny, after I changed the oil, I was at the gas station attendant asked If I wanted my oil checked. I said what the hell. He reported back "dude, your oil is like purple" garner

Myx, That RRFPR would work dandy. I have an MSD (made by Bosch about $60) that is 1:1 ratio but adjustable base. Worked well on stock ecu, but doesn't have the "bling" appeal of ther ebay one. Looking at your AFRs from your last dyno runs, they don't look too bad. I'd try turning up the boost until you see a dramatic dive. Wide band O2 would be really handy.... Keep in mind, like people say, RRFPRs are bandaids. You can crank up the pressure and get slightly more fuel per squirt but don't over do it. I found when I cranked mine up, I'd actually run way to rich under boost. I think at some point the injectors will start to leak under high pressure. (just a guess). The RRFPR kind of complicates Megasquirt tuning but does assure richness under boost. If you aren't ready to go Megasquirt. Your money might be better spent on some larger injectors

XSNRG, The Little G-Tech pro, is a great bang for the buck. The higher end units are even cooler to but for ~$35 the G-Tech Pro is worth it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7952480910&category=33678 Finally remembered I had my G-Tech in the Impreza the other day 0-60 = 8.42sec 1/4 mile = 17.82 @ 84 mph (I backed off a touch as I was fast approaching traffic) not bad for a heavy NA Subaru I'll get some runs in in the Brat this weekend garner

I think you're right on Russ. These are the wire colors I have on my 88 spider intake harness and they seem to line up with the pins in the TPS itself. Ballitch, you need to get a hold of a FSM for the harness you're using to try to make it work. Like I said, when I was running a 3 wire sensor and a 4 wire harness, it was not happy, try to source the proper TPS and you'll be good to go. garner

Myx, The basic idea is to place the MBC between the wastegate solinoid and where ever it is getting it's signal. The MBC lets a bit of the pressure bleed off so even if you are boosting to 10-11 (you'll like this too ) the waste gate is only "seeing" the stock 6 or 7psi. My install bypasses the boost sensor and overboost sensor. My MBC is between the line coming out the outlet of the turbo and the wastegate solinoid. make sense? garner

It should idle with out it. Computer will throw codes etc but it aught to run. The 3 wire sensor is basically a switch (idle, not idle, and WOT) The 4 wire is a reostat type thing that provides a more accurate idea of where the throttle is. Wiring the 3 wire TPS to a 4 wire harness won't really work to well (I had this set up on my Brat) You will eventually need to get the proper 4 wire TPS even though it's for impreza and much newer, this online pdf manual may help http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/impreza_manuals.htm GETERDONE! garner

I'm going XT6 AWD tranny, this thing needs as much traction as it can get.... I'm estimating the XT6 suspension stuff I'm swapping in for 5 lugs will widen the track about 5-6" so it's going to have some fat meats on it.... I just ordered some Kamei spoilers to try. I got a front for Gen 1 and a rear for Gen 2, hopefully I can make the rear work with a little heat gun action and some fiberglass..... garner

The real demand is for Gen 1 with integrated scoop I'd pay $300 or so for a CF hood for my whip garner

Craven, you have too much time on your hands,,,, The second one would definately require a Honda engine swap and under body neon..... I like em but a bit beyond where I want to go..... keep em coming!!! BTW, anyone know who owns "Shark"? I'm curious about how that 5 lug swap was pulled off..... garner

I've been waiting for XIBIT to stop by to pimp my ride......A little Bling but mostly Zing...... I think I've got enough HP to back it up....... garner

Yes, I need to work those into the design, that's next in photoshop. When I clamp the gen 1 flares in place, to me, they need some trimming and part of me wants to not mess with them (they are classics). Perhaps, I'll make molds and modify some reproductions.... garner

Ok I know some of you guys will flame me for this but here goes..... I've been preparing for body and paint work on the Brat. I've been contemplating what it'll look like after the 5 lug swap and some big rims. I also started to wonder about some ground effects sort of body add on, side skirts, spoiler, etc. This is where photoshop is so fun. Check this out And this version, with some body work photoshoped onto it I'm not real happy with the front spoiler or the rear end but you get the idea. I like the look of the body kitted version (or atleast how I see it in my head) but I also think the stock lines are pretty mean looking...... What do you think? Remember, this is a STREET rig. garner

It seems like it is there for a reason so I'd think having it blocked off could cause some problems (maybe) As for the two vacuum nipples on top provide ported vacuum, on my set up one provides the vacuum to the disty the other has a cap on it. Where is your disty getting vacuum? of the pass side of the manifold? garner

I'm not sure why there is coolant running through the TB, probably a warm up and/or emmisions system. I doubt this was the problem with the wagon after the swap but it occured to me that perhaps, and this a really big, grasping at straws, perhaps, not having that circulation of coolantcould cause the situation you where having, ie starts and runs when cold, once warm, won't run well or start back up. I can imagine some situation where, without the circulation, air bubbles (not good for cooling) develop in the spider's water pipe and make the temp sensor on the back read "way to freaking hot" thus sending some signal to the ECU that in order to save itself, it should not allow the engine to run....... Again, that was a stretch but perhaps, just maybe, a possibity, (maybe) When I got my COMPLETE spider intake in included a hard coolant line that goes from the water pump to the heater core (IIRC), this is where the driver's side TB coolant line ties in. The standard intake turbo manifold had a pipe just like this without the provission for t-ing the TB coolant line in..... If you want to get it set up "properly" you could probably do some hardware store Brass T and hose barb fittings to plump that TB line into the heater core line.... MegaSquirt would be really handy here because it would tell you the temp that the ECU is getting (which can be different than what the dash guage shows (unless it is mechanical and located really close to the ECUs temp guage..... Just some ideas..... garner

Where'd you come up with those #s?

Actually I was calling myself a newbie. I started this thread a year or so ago right after I got my Brat. It was one of my first few posts..... garner

This thread is a blast from the past. Who was the newbie that asked such an open ended question???? I don't know about gen 2 but on my gen 1 putting in a 5spd EA82 series tranny was just a matter of fabricating some new tranny x-member mounts and pretty simple mods to the shift linkage. In my swap, I had to move the engine maybe 3/4" forward as well as cut and refab my frame rails to clear the valve covers.... It was a PITA but totally doable for me (and worth it!!!) might be easier with Gen 2, I don't know.... Bring the stuff out to Oregon and we'll "GET ER DONE!!" garner