garner

Yes, it is time for a Subaru performance magazine. I'm so tired of seeing 700hp Honda Civics and articles on how o add nitrous to your ricer. I guess I'd consider myself "middle school" I love subarus of all ages and would lobe to see a mix. Sport Compact Car does the occasional write up on a pimped old Datsun 510 or something like that. If you can provide a mix, that would be ideal. If it was just new era Subarus, I'd subscribe in a second. Bring it on!!! garner

If you have the time, send your's in. That way you know the cams and carriers are used to each other and tolerances should be maintained. As for lifters, mine were beautiful, your's are probably the same. I believe you can send them in and they will inspect/correct if needed. It is a good idea to re-install the lifters in the same location as you removed them, same with the hydraulic lash adjusters(HLA). Also when you remove the HLAs, store them submerged in oil or ATF so they stay pumped up until you re-install. gluck garner

Some info from board members that have installed them http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11592&highlight=delta+cams+thread yes, easiest to call them. I believe Jerry is the fellow I talked to. They generally have a set ready to ship and you can send your's in as cores. This is great because of the lack of down time. I had my motor apart and sent my cams to be reground. Took about 6 days with shipping both ways. garner

two words: Delta Cams. search around here for more info. Cheap power and you'll be right ther in the motor while replacing the heads..... garner

Im buying the following for my turbo brat vac/boost oil pressure, water temp, Air/fuel to make sure I don't run it too lean I will also get a fuel pressure guage and mount it under the hood. Mostly because I will also be using an adjustable FPR so I need to know what my fp is. In general, mechanical guages are better, less likely to fail and more accurate. They are also more of a pain in the arse to install. btw, are you still coming to mudrat's for your motor swap? garner

thank Gary, Interesting that the boost/fuel cut switch is normally closed. That one may be causin me some trouble. I was at a friends shop who has a running ea82t and when I disconected that switch nothing happened (It didn't die) I aught to get those switches and plug them in just to be sure. I think it is worth while to understand the fuel cut/ boost switch so that we can perhaps bypass or modify it for mor eboost and mor efun! thanks again garner

have you changed yer fuel filter(s) lately? I had an 82 wagon that would do the same thing. If I remember correctly, there is an under hood filter as well as one right by the tank. My 82 had about 80k at the time with the origional rear filter.... just a thought garner

I had three bad injectors. I finally did the test I should have weeks ago. I unbolted the injectors and pulled them out of the intake. Left connected to fuel so I could see if they were spraying. Only one was. I swapped the other three with some really ugly looking spares and bam! she starts right up!!! I curious, is ther any difference between 85 injectors and 88 (that came with the spider intake I got) 1stsubaruparts.com shows only one injector for the 1800 but it is odd that atleast three of the newer injectors (which look perfect) wouldn't work. Thank you all for your help on this. I knew it was something simple it just took me weeks to check all the complicated stuff and bang my head against the wall before I actually did what is probably the most no brainer test I can imagine. Now to make it run well..... garner

that would be a huge help to me, thanks garner

In the splicin' o' the harnesses, I did have to extend the signal wire, I am confident that it's the right one but I extended it with non-sheilded wire. I thought that would just make my radio noisey, maybe ther's more to the shielding than I think... I did ground it last night. I'm sure thats a good idea but was not my silver bullet. I failed to mention earlier something that might be my problem... I don't have the boost and vacuum switches and thus don't have them hooked up. I wonder if they are N/C or N/O switches. If they are N/C, I bet that's my problem. If I am assuming correctly, fuel cut is actually injector pulse interuption....This seemed like a sort of different question so I started a new thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17242 Maybe someone will test the continuity o fthe switches and or try unplugging them and seeing if the car will start or not.. Russ, I've got 65psi at the injectors. and 70ish straight off the pump.... garner

Thanks Gary, I've read that. Interesting but to me it asks more questions than it answers. We are on the same quest, to understand the way in which the boost switch works. For me at this point I really just need to know if it's a N/O or an N/C switch. I had assumed that the Boost switch was a sort of failsafe that would prevent my motor from blowing up, now I wonder if it will prevent my motor from starting. It seems to be tied into the injector pulse and I assume that the fuel cut its at the injectors not the pump. There I go assuming again..... So, have you made any progess in understanding the workings of the boost switch and fuel cut? garner

Ok EA82T owners, help me out here. What happens if you unplug the Boost and Vacuum switches (mounted to the passenger side strut tower)? Will your car start? Anyone know if these ar normally open or normally closed switches? Anyone want to be a test subject for me? Try multiple combinations including both diconnected? I'm trying to troubleshoot my fuel injection system and have fuel pressure and good wiring (as far as I know) but I'm not getting injector pulse. I had assumed the boost and vacuum switches would no tprevent the motor from starting but now I wonder..... garner

thanks calebz I thought you had done the swap... The brat has no clutch or neutral safety switch so it will turn over without the neutral switch in place. bypass/jumper = wire the two ends together? I don't have the switch so I can't tell if it's normally closed or normally open?

Is there any complication in switching from auto to manual tranny on the EA82. In my swap I got a harness from an auto and installed the motor bolted to a 5spd. I've tested the ECU and it indeed tells me it's auto. Do I need to do anything to my harness to let it know its had a shifting change? In looking at the FSM it seems the neutral switch is tied to more than the starter? I just wonder if this is some how messing with my motor running. thanks in advance garner

I finally got a gauge, only had time to plumb it up and get one quick read 65 psi!!!yikes I tested pressure right before the regulator, theoretically this is the pressure at the injectors as well. I'll do some more tests tonight and report back

hey skunkaroo, I love those sedans, that will be sweet. I have some FSM's for that vintage. I posted them here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13399 Any interest? garner

hey there Someon26, I have no answers for you right now but I'm having a similar problem with my swap. My saga: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16856 I've got the same deal, everything works except the injectors.... So, check this out: The injectors don't click while under fuel pressure but once I disconect the fuel line at the injector, they will click.... My current theory is that my pressure regulator is bad (so is my spare) and the injectors can't open against the high (65psi) pressure....??? Is this possible?? In terms of wiring, check ALL of your grounds. Follow every ground out of the computer and all the little grounds that split off the harness.

I Know, I know I need a real gauge. I have ordered one as I can not find a decent one in town for less than $40. I got an in line that I'll mount under the hood. Cheaper than the test type gauges and might come in handy latter. I stumbled upon my theory just trying to troubleshoot without a guage, two things made me come to this theory. Injector under pressure=no click Same injector disconected from fuel line (no pressure) = CLICK Also, after putting in a spare FPR things are different now. before, with a shot of starting fluid it would "run" for just a couple of seconds after, with a shot of starting fluid, it will "run" for 15-20 I have tested everything in the wiring department multiple times and feel pretty confident that I'm good there. I did have to splice different ends onto the engine harness to make it mate up with the rest of the harness. I tested these things and double checked my double checking I'll let you know what the fuel pressure is as soon as I know garner

Anyone have any thoughts on my "too much fuel pressure" theory? i.e. too high fuel pressure and the injectors are essentially held closed by this pressure It' still not running under it's own power but it is much closer. long winded bump garner

WJM, As another board member looking out for your safety, I must say "DO NOT GET IN A HEAD ON WITH THAT SET UP" you'll be a lot shorter when it's over. I just installed a simson 5 point in my Impreza. For the shoulder strap mounting point I bolted the mount down in the cargo area, under the carpet etc just behind the back seat. The harness runs under the rear seat back. The cool thing is that when not Auto-Xing, I can tuck the whole shoulder harness into the seat and presto, intact and stock looking interior. Should be applicable to your GL-10 Look around the motorsports forum at NASOIC on the harness bar idea. When I was doing research I found alot of references to "decapitation bars" I believe the problem is if they are not bolted in rock solid and thing go really wrong, you're screwed. It is of course ideal to have a full roll cage but there goes the intact interior.... Of course, If you, like me, are just trying to stay in your seat without jamming your knees into the console and door and pushing back againts the steering wheel, you're not really using this thing for safety, so that needs to be takin into account. for what it's worth.... garner

I've been wondering if Ebay "Ghetto Coilovers" might be an option. If you search ebay for "subaru suspension" you often get a bunch of tuning conpanies selling cheap sleeve overs (like the ground control set up). Has anybody looked into these as an option on older subarus? WJM, the portaband rules!!! best tool for that job for sure garner

Update: Ok, how about this theory.... If the FPR is bad, there is no regulation of the fuel pressure, thus it is high. FSM says up to 70ish. With fuel pressure higher than injectors are designed for, injectors are "held closed" by the very substance they aim to dispense... Once I checked with my stethascope, I was not hearing injector clicks... I could hear clicks on a spare injector hooked up to each harness connecto and bam, click click click!!! Still no click on the installed injectors, until I removed pressure from the system. Then, click click click!!! I think the FPR was bad, swapped it for a spare (huge pita) and I am closer now. Now, with a small shot of starting fluid, it will "run" for maybe 15-20 seconds then die. much better than the 3-5 seconds before... I might just be down to tuning now. I will reconnect the intake and let the air flow meter actualtually give the brain an accurate signal ( I'm holding it open with a screw driver at the moment and think it may be flooding it) anyhow, this is how I spent my memorial day weekend, how bout you?

I don't really suspect the TPS, it just occurs to me that maybe I need to test it. The injectors and harness pass the tests in the FSM. I removed the EGR system when switching to the spider. I left the solinoid in place so the harness had something to plug into there. Right now, I have the intake all apart, I assumed it would atleast try to start in NA format. I hold the flapper on the air flow meter open to give the computer the impression that there is air I just found my stethascope so I might be able to hear the injectors if I do the click test.... We'll see could it just take a long time to work all the air out of the fuel lines? I bet it's been cranked over a total of about 3 minutes (in 10-15 sec at a time) garner

roundeye, welcome, or welcome back. just to let you know, i'm in the same boat I don't know what to tell you but I'm at the same wall. Fuel to the injectors but it seems they don't squirt. sorry for the lack of advice but you're not alone on this one. garner

Thanks Subi81, So the 0-100psi aught to do it... Another question, I understand that mechanical gauges, especially for Oil pressure are more reliable and accurate. Can I use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and maintain the stock oil pressure idiot light. I love idiot lights, there just my style garner