garner

bishop, I rebuilt an EA82T and bought my gaskets, seals etc from Schucks(i think they are Kragen and Checker in other parts of the country. I got a Felpro gasket kit and I am very happy with it. It is very complete, in fact I have left overs. I bought Rings (perfect circle) and bearings (beck arnley) at Napa. Sorry, I don't remember the prices but I do know it was the cheapest that I could piece together locally. If any of your needs are SOA parts (wrist pins, push-rods perhaps), check out 1stsubaruparts.com. A NW subaru dealer that sells really cheap on-line genuine SOA parts. Bottom line is that every complete kit I looked into was expensive and had a bunch of extra crap that I didn't need. gluck

That's what I wanted to hear Qman!! I'll check the calipers, they seem really beefy so it would be hard to hurt them. The rotors and pads are getting replaced anyway. Seals are trashed but I don't think it was related to my stupidity. garner

Ok, time to test your remote diagnostic skills. the Subaru: 1979 Brat here's what I did: remove two front half-shafts completely then pushed the Brat down the driveway to the street to get it loaded on a tow dolly I noticed it was hard to push and the front wheels seemed to be wobling a bit. I now understand that the front halfshafts on these are part of the bearing assembly. I will not do this again. Do you think I've messed anything up? To make the Brat roll-able, I seperated the DOJ from the front halfshafts and drove them in the hubs so the bearings could function properly.I have yet to really tighten the axle nuts down bu tit seems that the tighter they get, the harder the wheel is to turn..... anybody want to tell me how bad I f*&$^d this up or better yet, that I should not worry about it thanks garner

yes, the brat's MC and vacuum assist were too long. With a little bit of fab work, I swapped in the EA82T MC and vacuum, clearance is great now. I'm not sure how you solved it but swapping in the EA82T was pretty easy and the brakes feel great now. That's what I have in mind for steering. I got some JY parts, u-joints etc and will soon get that problem solved. Newest clearance issue is the WRX turbo and down pipe. I'm goint to have to fab a really short up-pipe to raise the turbo about 2 inches and angle it back about 20 degrees. I'll post more pictures soon... garner

I'm heading up to Hillboro April 23-25 to watch the Rally. Anybody else? Any good camping spots? I stayed at Cape Lookout which is kind of a cool campground but could be closer I'd like to meet any of you USMBers and see some Subarus Unfortunately, the Brat won't be running by then so I'll be driving my Impreza. Any interest in a group camp site for Subaru nuts (old and new school)? let me know garner

weird, when I went to the JY to do some research, I found the MCs on autos and manuals the same. Both with three outlets. On the Auto, the two lines go, one each, to the two front brakes. The third, dowward facing port went to the rear and a proportioning valve for the rears(i guess, there was so much undercoating, it was difficult to track the lines) In my situation, EA82T into gen 1 brat, I just plugged the third, downward facing port and ran two lines from the remaining ports to the distribution block. After it was all plumbed and bled, everything seems just dandy. Got to get it running for a road test. fingers crossed! garner

That's what I thought too, but the auto and manual use the same MC???? or atleaset they both have three oultlets. On the auto, it seems two outlets go to the fronts and one geos to the rear via a proportioning valve. The Brat this is going in has a very simple brake system with no proportioning valve. Thanks for the FSM work subiemech85 garner

Thanks guys I just went to the JY while I was out and did a little research, and found the same, HH plumbed to the down ward facing S outlet, We'll see how it works out.. If anyone else has some experience with the HH delete process, let me know garner

Subiemech85, Does your 85 wagon MC have the same outlets I've described? One at the P out let and two at the S outlet, with one pointing driverside and one down? Which one goes to the HH? I'm going to try pluging the HH and see what happens (not on the road) but first I need to figure out which hole to plug.... thanks

So how do folks get rid of the hill holder? I read "ditching the hill holder" lots of opinions and stories, but the question is never answered. The gen 1 brat MC has just two outlets, labled F (front?) and R (rear?) The EA82T MC has three outlets, one labled P (primary?) and two labled S (secondary?) I assume one of these is for the HH? how do I get around it? garner

Ok So on the swap I'm doing (EA82T to Gen 1 Brat) I am using the 85 EA82 mastervac and master cylinder to give it a little more clearance at the disty. This master cylinder has three outlet. One is primary, 2 are secondary (one is for the hill holder?) My question: Which one of the outlets does the hill holder go to? I am assuming it is one of the secondary outlets but which one? or does it matter? If I am eliminating the HH, do I just plug the HH outlet on the master cylinder? Or is there more to it than that? thanks

hey 78turbobrat, I had ment to send you an email with a link to this thread, but you found it on your own. just kidding blaming you for putting the idea in my head. It was really more like inspiration and some good timing in finding the motor and tranny etc for the swap, (thanks XSNRG). I think I found a company to make the custom front axles. Constant Velocity in Florida? about $105 each. Did you have any probs with the steering linkage and the driver's side half shafts? I am going to have some clearance issues, that I think I can over come, I just wondered if you ran in to this? The way I understand it, the motor in yours sits up higher than mine, it seems like that would make the clearance issue worse? As for wiring, I will keep you posted. So far, I think I've got it but I'm sure I'll hit some snags. I am sort of combining the two harnesses rather than using the EA82T alone. I am using the EA82 for it's computer/engine control etc and the stock Brat harness for lights, wipers, horn etc. The Brat harness is in great shape and everything works so if it's not broke... Thanks again for your advice and willingness to help me (you too AdamN.D.J. Back to the shop, I gotta get this thing running for the WCSS!! garner

good question... I know the brat is light but does anyone know what the curbweight of a 79 Brat is compared to an 85 gl10turbo wagon? I've heard the Brat is under 2000lb. My bathroom scale stops at about 350lbs

scooby, I don't have my FSM in front of me but if I remember correctly timing is set like this.... flywheel @ TDC driver's side cam timing hole straight up, put on driver's side timing belt crank flywheel about 180 degrees clockwise until you see the 3 tick marks on the flywheel, pass side cam timing hole straight up (you don't care where the driver's side cam timing hole is) attatch the pass side belt rotate flywheel a couple times and stop at TDC. If everything went well, your cam timing holes will be at 45 degrees, drivers side @ about 10:30 the passengers at about 1:30. I think that's rigth but like I said, with out my FSM, I'm talking from foggy memory, someone else will straighten me out garner

Thanks for the kind words guys. It's nice to know others think what I'm doing here is worth while. When you spend hours and hours in the shop and explain to non-subaruphiles what your doing, you get some wierd looks. It's easy to loose track of the goal. Anyway, the USMB does wonders for encouraging me to stay on task and build cool subarus. Oops, I did have to modify the tranny linkage. I had to shorten both pieces of the shift linkage to move the shifter forward into the Brat's shifter boot area. No big deal but I thought I should keep it real in terms of what is needed fore the swap. The tractor is my buddy Jim's I believe it is indeed B7100D. It was a very helpful tool for the swap.

My Impreza is white: Stormtrooper The Brat: Chewbaca (i'll keep this name even after it is painted deep blue)

Yes, more pictures to come. I will get the tranny mount fabrication photographed and up soon. I will wait until I get beyond my getto driveshaft support mount to photograph it. I meant to do a real photo-documentary of the swap process but I got so busy and in to it that I kept forgeting to snap a photo (and greasy hands and digital cameras don't mix well) Maybe thats why those Chilton's manuals suck so bad for photos ILUVDRT: It's a spider intake from an 88XT, I think the power will be reasonable since it's over twice that of the stock motor (65hp=1600 hopefully near 150hp=my EA82T with mods (check my signiture)) The Brat weighs less than 2000lb wet. But, can you ever have enough power? garner

The only mod to the tunnel was the addition of some flanges to mount the tranny mount/crossmember. The tranny and engine are maybe 1 inch further forward than stock (based on the location of the motor mout holes in the cross member) The tranny had one modification, I cut a locating tab off the bottom so it could sit down lower without hitting the crossmember. Are you talking about just swapping the tranny or doing the whole swap in the 1600? The 5spd push button is actually shorter than the 4 spd EA71 tranny. It seems the difference in length is made up for by the longer, 2 piece drive shaft

The tittle says it all, Photos in my album here I've got the heavy and dirty part of my swap done. I've been having nightmares about it not working the way I had planned and now I can sleep and have nightmares about being attacked by wiring harnesses I should first help my friend Jim Trezona who was an huge help in getting the motor to fit the way it should. He's an oldschool vintage race car builder/mechanic and I couldn't have done it with out him. I should also thank (or blame) 78turbobrat for putting this idea in my head. He did it first and proved it was possible. I'll answer any questions about the swap but let me mention a few of the things we did to make it work It is not neccessary to cut the frame rails or cross member but Jim convinced me it was worth it. It allowed us to get the motor to sit down low to maintain a low center of gravity for handling. It will also allow me to get to the heads without pulling the motor. We cut the frame rails and boxed them back in with 1/8" steel. I am certain if anything the fram rails are stiffer and more beefy than it was stock. With a little welding, grinding, bondo and paint, I think it looks really clean, almost factory. The stock crossmember had to be cut and boxed back in to make room for the crossover/uppipe. We built some adapter plates to allow the EA82 motor mounts to be bolted in. Welded some flanges on the inside of the tranny tunnel to provide mounting holes for the EA82 tranny crossmember. The rear diff bolted right in. EA82 2 piece drive shaft fit perfectly, with a little relocation of the center mount. Tranny fit perfectly (I will have some difficulty between steering and axle once I try to get custom front axles in) Once all the fabrication was done and clean, I sprayed it with 1980 Deep Blue (color code 67) which is what the hole thing will be painted latter this summer. Anyway, I am so pleased with how it has gone so far and can't wait to get the thing running. I'll keep you posted garner here

beauty:slobber: very nice work indead. garner

nice! tell us more about your fuel system... I'm building an EA82T with many of the mods you've been working on. Delta cams, wrx turbo, ic, downpipe, bov, light flywheel. etc. The motor will be in the rig soon and I'm already thinking the fuel delivery system is going to be the week link. I'm really interested in what you've found with your motor btw, nice exhaust, is that an axle-forward system garner

So, If I understand the EA82-XT6 clutch issue it is that everything bolts up perfectly except that the XT6 clutch is .012" thinner than the standard EA82. To increase clamping force, the surface where the pressure plate mounts to the flywheel needs to be shaved. Is it possible to take the .012" off the pressure plate instead? Skip? As for clutch brands, I hear good things about Exedy. They only make OEM replacement style for pre-legacy/impreza Subarus (no racing clutches) but I have been told they beef them up about 15-20%. Using Exedy would also allow you to apply some big ricer style Exedy decals all over your car and not be called a poser. The best price I've found is here garner

i never saw pics of a down pipe but they must have had one with that turbo. I'm going to use a gutted and modified (bell mouthed) stock wrx down. $25 on ebay plus a few hours of cat gutting

WJM, That's techworks photo from the first post on these. remember the engine code confusion? It is the crossover pipe thou art coveting

drool over this