garner

hey tex, what do you think about using the stock diameter but just improving the flow a bit by having the two primaries merge into the turbo rather than having one just tee into the other. I love that equal length deal that techworkseng has made but I still am not convinced equal length is worth the effort. For a home builder, it would a pretty tough build. It seems like just making the geometry of the "stock design" a little smother, and opening up the exhaust side, one could get the TDO4 up to speed a little quicker...

I've got the mig welder I just need an 80k mandrel bender...or access to one? I wonder where mudrat does his tube bending? I want one of those pipes so bad:banghead:

We'll see what happens with the TDO4 and spooling. I'm going to start with the stock exhaust, cross-over, down pipe, uppipe etc. Eventually, I'll get these restrictive things replaced with custom "garner-built" super exhaust. I love the techwerks crossover but pretty $$$. I might try to make something like this or perhaps, not so equal length but of better geometry. The important thing is I won't feel too bad with some WRX emblems on my Brat:D I'll keep you all posted

oops partsman, I must have gotten them at the other (evil) auto parts store before I found a subaphile like you to but my parts from. he's right, he will hook you up. garner

nutt7 try 1stsubaruparts.com way better prices than my local dealer However, I used Felpro that I got from Napa I think. They are great gaskets and everything fit just fine. Some will insist on Genuine gaskets, especially head gasket but, I don't buy that. btw, that sucks to have to get towed by a civic, yuck

Josh, I get it now. Its like main bearings where you have to order specific oversizes. Does seem like a pain In the mean time, I snaged a TDO4 on ebay(sorry if I snipped anyone on the Board on this:D) for $137.50 shipped. Not bad and one less greasy mess to clean up. I think I can overcome slow spooling issues once I fab up some kick rump roast exhaust and intake and get her breathing better. Actually, now that I think of it, with this turbo and the WRX IC, I am also close to having a turbo kit for my Impreza all for just a bit over 2 bills

Faxons Auto Literature They have tons of used manuals, good prices and fast shipment http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/ hope this helps

Whoo Yoooo!!! excellent dates and location for me. Thanks for the planning Qman and others. I can't wait. Now I have a deadline to get my monster-brat running:eek:

Josh, Thanks for making mistakes for others to learn from. Do tell, what went so wrong with your $135 box of parts? I have taken my rebuildable apart pretty easily after getting some info off the internet. Doesn't one just replace the seals and bearings and such or was there more to your rebuild (or de-build, as it were) garner

John, Very cool!! I have a new found love of the looks of the BAJA. SOA should hire you all to make some of their cars look cooler. Do you have your own mandrel bender or are you getting stuff bent somewhere in town? I still need to get out there and see your shop some time nice freakin work garner

Ok, So after thinking maybe this VJ was all good and not in need ov rebuilding after oiling it and getting the shaft play to mellow out, a new problem has shown itself When I drained the oil out of the port a bunch came out of the wastegate side/exhaust port. Bad seals? Now that we've been around and around on this, what would you do? Rebuild Turbo = $100 parts, plus mods to exhaust and intake WRX stock turbo = $150-$175 plus exhaust and intake mods Beyond the $$$, how would the TDO4 work with the EA82T, will it be slower to spool than on the EJ20? I know it will provide more boost than my motor will handle and I can cope with this but I do want quick spool-up Whose runnign what tubos out ther and what thinkith yee? thanks, garner

I don't think the mod will be too much. I've got access to pretty much every welder, plasma cutter, machine tool etc. However, I might not even need to rebuild the turbo I have. Last night, I filled the oil inlet and spun the shaft a bit, let it sit over night and the little bit of play in the shaft nearly went away. Hey Dennis ex24, Know anything about the RHB5 VJ5 turbo? It's the turbo, that I have and am thinking of using. And yes, I've measured the Brat and the motor, it's gonna be tight but I can make it work well without messing up the frame rails or anything. As far as I can figure though, I'll have to pull (or atleast lift) the motor to get heads etc, off. I'm goning to physically test fit the motor in a couple weeks

Thanks guys I failed to mention one thing.... The rebuildable turbo will require exhaust mods as the hot side has different shaped flanges than the stock. Intake will also be modded to use a WRX intercooler. I am planning on solving the hot side flanges with adapter plates that will bolt between the up and down pipes and the turbo. At some point I plan on fabricating custom exhaust bits and replacing the pipes all together. So, still think it's the rebuild that makes more sense?

So, I've got a couple of IHI RHB5 turbos sitting here. One is toast, the other has a bit of shaft play but certainly rebuildable. I started pricing rebuild kits for the RHB5 and was sticker shocked. The want $100-$125 for bearings, seals, screws etc. I know I can buy low millage stock WRX turbos on ebay or NASIOC for not alot more than that. My question is will the stock WRX turbo be too much for my EA82T?

I just got a set for my EA82T. Not in the motor yet but... 1 $135 shipped from WA to OR 2 EA82T to be swaped into my Brat 3 Same as Dennis ex244 and WJM 4 I sent mine in to regrind and it took about 5 days to get them back. They often have sets ground and ready to go so if you want to do a quick swap you can order the cams and send yours back latter like Dennis ex24 did. You could likely swap the cams in an afternoon if all went well and you got everything you need ready 5 not installed yet but I bet they add about 20hp to my work bench:-p I believe it's Jerry that you talk to about the Subaru stuff. I bet they'll do any grind possible. I am not a cam tech kind of guy but he totally lost me when he was explaining what the regrind does for performance and especially how it is done without adding material to the cam. When I asked him if this would make my motor faster. He said yes. I said OK. call them up, they are very nice folks

Check out Faxon Auto Literature. http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/ They have alot of FSM's and there prices are decent. I got Vol 1,2,3 for my 85 for like $30 shipped

It seems very similar to the stock turbo on the 85 EA82T but with a slightly larger compressor. They are both RHB5's its just the spec # thats different. IHI is sort of worthless for info on their older turbos.

Hey Turbo Maniacs, I recently aquired an IHI Turbo that was suposedly from a Subaru. Here are the vitals IHI Spec: VJ5 8510 Serial: RHB5 12297A Part #: FEH5A The searching I've done doesn't turn up any info on this model. Also, When checking for shaft play, The FSM shows checking the shaft play by laying the turbo down so the shaft is horizaontal and pulling up on both ends at the same time. I get no play in this test but if I pull up on just one side or the other, there is a bit of play. Is this normal? or not thanks

I just had a set reground for my EA82T and I was very pleased with the price. I have yet to get the motor installed and running but from what others on the board have said, I will be pleased. I am not a cam-techie but I got a torque grind. About $135 shipped:) Search this board as well as the internet for EA81 performance and Aviation engines. There are several companies that build the crap out of EA81s and sell parts, do machine work etc. check out http://www.ramengines.com As far as exhaust goes, your right, there aren't premade header for these motors. Search for Techworkseng turbo wagon. They built a wicked, almost equall length header for an EA81T. It's out there but not that easy to find

snowman my local parts guy tells me threebond 1215 is a Felpro product. I would assume it's 3-m product by the three portion of it's name. Ultra grey is good stuff I too made a wrist pin puller that I was quite proud of. I could post a picture if anyone would like to see it. Sounds like your deal worked just dandy. How about those clips? those are a pain

I think that's the spec. I can't figure a great way to measure any smaller than that anyway. It's been a long time since I've played with ATF (the lubricant, not the fun stuff) How is it different than regular oil?, thinner, thicker? In Cameron's post, which I can't seem to access at the moment, are his illustrations of the break-down accurate? I followed his illustrations to the pixel, so I shouldn't have them asembled incorrectly

rallyruss, I haven't tried ATF. When you reassemble and pump up, do they actually get in the less than .5mm movement range? Or do you just get them to "tighten up"?

Yes, I've searched. I'm rebuilding an EA82T and while I'm at it I thought I'd try Cameron's excelent "tick fix". The HLAa are difficult to get apart but my biggest problem is getting them back together. He sugests assembling them under the surface in a bowl of oil to exclude any air from inside. This makes perfect sense but when I do this, I get them so full of oil that I can't get the retainer back on. I have to use a pencil on the ball/valve to bleed some oil off. When they finally will go back together, they are just as loose as before. These things confuse me in general. It seems like if it's oil pressure that keeps them pumped up and the lash adjusted properly, they need a bit of "movability" to do their job. It seems like if they move less than the .5mm spec, they could just as easily be frozen/toast. Is there something I'm missing here? I had an idea that I thought was brilliant to solve the problem. I suspect that the reason they move too freely is that there is air where they should be oil. I thought I could solve this problem with a vacuum chamber. I submerged the HLA in oil, pulled as strong a vacuum as this unit would. Soon there were bulbbles comming out of the oil port as I theoretically replacd the air with oil. After sometime, the bubbles stoped and I releaset the vacuum. I was certain, I had it figured but when I checked the movement, it was just like it had been before, about 2.5-3mm movement. I only tried the vacuum chamber once, I'm thinking maybe if I play with the orientation of the HLA in the oil bath, I might get some air bubbles that I couldn't get beforre. I'll try again. Any thoughts ????

rguyver, That is an excellent mod Can anyone tell me ho wmuch of this would apply to a gen 1 brat with EA82 drivetrain? I'd love to widen the stance, get some better handling, brakes, 5 lugs. Has anyone out there do this type of thing to a gen1 car?

Yes, 1stsubaruparts.com or subaruparts.com both are dealers in the northwest that do web and mail order. I just ordered a set of oversized pistons for $48/ea. These are genuine SOA cast pistons. I bought rings (beck arnley) at napa for about $50 a set You might also try Ram Performance. The airplane guys. They seem to have some good deals on re-ring kits, cast pistons, forged pistons etc.