NewDriverOlderRide

So Im going to go with benebob. Can you give me a detailed explaination on how to do this? From what I gathered, you are saying: 1. Tap the manifold with a 7/16 fine or coarse depending on the size of the stripped area. 2. Buy some threaded rebar. 3. Cut to size and insert into the manifold 4. Use a nut over the rebar to tighten everything back up? Is that right? Would it be simpler to instead just use a bolt inserted into the newly tapped hole? Tyler

Well, the manifolds are "semi-stripped." So I guess Im gonna try the 7/16 tap thing......Hopefully, my buddy has a tap.:-\

Sorry to ressurect such an old thread, but I am in the middle of needing to do this tomorrow, so what is the best way to do it? Thanks, Tyler

Hey my parents are in process of buying a used car and money is REAL tight. We already bought one car off the guy and the next day which just so happened to be Friday the 13th the car(97 Ford Taurus) went to hell.....We test drove the car 4 times and it was wonderful, AC worked, Clean......Then AFTER we bought it we drove it for about 20 min. and the AC stopped, it had a blown HG AND it knocks!!!! So after arguing with the guy all day we typed in the vin# and it turned out that in 2003 the car had 98000mi and now it only has 65000!!!!! So after we told the guy we discovered the odometer was tampered with he changed a bit! So we can either get our money back (1600$) or he offered to just trade us a 95 Buick Regal that he was sellin for double the price of the other car at no additional cost. This time he let us keep the car for a day so that we could get a better test and what not, and even bring it to a mechanic to inspect it(They must not trust me enough??? :rolleyes: ) So I know some of you have Carfax accounts, Who will do one for me? Vin: 2G4WB52L8S1457750 95 Buick Regal My email is bmxboy266@hotmail.com

Hey my parents are in process of buying a used car and money is REAL tight. We already bought one car off the guy and the next day which just so happened to be Friday the 13th the car(97 Ford Taurus) went to hell.....We test drove the car 4 times and it was wonderful, AC worked, Clean......Then AFTER we bought it we drove it for about 20 min. and the AC stopped, it had a blown HG AND it knocks!!!! So after arguing with the guy all day we typed in the vin# and it turned out that in 2003 the car had 98000mi and now it only has 65000!!!!! So after we told the guy we discovered the odometer was tampered with he changed a bit! So we can either get our money back (1600$) or he offered to just trade us a 95 Buick Regal that he was sellin for double the price of the other car at no additional cost. This time he let us keep the car for a day so that we could get a better test and what not, and even bring it to a mechanic to inspect it(They must not trust me enough??? :rolleyes: ) So I know some of you have Carfax accounts, Who will do one for me? Vin: 2G4WB52L8S1457750 95 Buick Regal My Email is bmxboy266@hotmail.com

Cant I just drill a hole in the Y pipe? Then I can just put the O2 sensor in?

So we figured it out, and it will be finished in the morning. So, we cut off 2 pieces of the Y-pipe, and clamped flexipipe from Advanced onto it. (I drove home like that, noticed a loss in power from about 1K-3K RPMs. Sounded like a rice burner, and as fun to rev haha.) From there we have to clamp the ends of the flex pipe, to the Y-pipe off of an old Blazer 4X4(we have to weld some smaller pipe inside the Y in order to be able to clamp it to the flex pipe). And from there I will put the end of the Y to either a dynoomax or flowmaster muffler(both are free) I havnt decided which one, ill prolly try them both. And for the added bling factor a CHROME exhaust tip lol. It will look something like this. I dont plan on doing anything for an O2 sensor,(unless I should drill a hole in that Ypipe?) It runs normal without so hhhmmmmm>??)

Surprisingly, I actually have no O2 sensor now, and the car acts normal as ever? Doesn't even throw a code?!?:-\ I still have the peices from the Y-pipe, here are some "pictures" teehehehe. the y-pipe is on the right. It is beyond repair.

:Flame: Geez im not a Painter! LOL But yea, I will try to make the pipes fit into one, but like I said, im am very poor right now, Im not to worryd bout exhaust gasses, becuz i been runnin' straight manifold the last week! and havent smelt anything yet soooooo...

So I am REALLY poor right now, and dont have hardly any money. And I have no exhaust, just the scattered remains of the y pipe. My friend has a bunch of junk stuff at his house so hear is my exhaust plan, the car is so embarassingly loud that i just cant wait any longer. Keep in mind that I have no exhaust now, so it can't get any worse. Will this setup work, thought, w.e etc. the pic is kinda self explanatory.

Im not sure If I trust my soob enough to go all they way there...plus, i dont want to drive there for 3hrs with no exhaust,

Thanks anyways!

And?......

sdlfjvgksjdfhvgsdhgvfub ^^Sounds about right

That would be wonderful! And BTW it is a pushbutton 4WD if it makes a difference.

Yea thats WAY to much. Especially when they offered to make one for about 200$

Ok so the y-pipe and rest of my exhaust is shot. The Y-pipe split in half. So, I currently I have no exhaust on the driverside port, and about 1 foot of pipe on the passengerside port. I took the car over to a nice, reputable, cheap, exhaust shop. The man said that if they have to fabricate a new Y-pipe the total cost for EVERYTHING would be about 375$ and he said if I could find a salvageable Y-Pipe it would save me about 200$. There are NO Subarus around here where I could get one(PM me). After searching around the site, I see that dual exhaust is not reccomended. I dont want/need the Catalyc conv. either. I am looking for a quiet but freeflowing exhaust, the car is a daily driver mainly around the city. Right now it is WAY TOO loud, Im embarrassed and I get flamed at school and stuff even more than before(because the car is basically a POS) Im pretty poor right now because all of my money has been going into an engine rebuild/swap into my other car (SBC 350 into a 83 Buick Regal). So if you have any ideas/drawings of what I should get/etc. Post em' up. Tyler

CAP AND PLUG WIRES AND AIR FILTER (they needed to order the rotor) FIXED THE PROBLEM!!! YAYYY!!!! THANKS 4 DA HELP! Now alls I need is a new exhaust!(and a radio) I learned my lesson; They have suggested times to replace worn out parts for a reason, use them. And my other one was; Don't try and drive it to see if it fixes itself, you must fix it yourself.

I replaced it 4 months ago. The engine runs poorly now(same as it was with the misfiring+stumbling), but at least it runs and is drivable. I have a feeling it is the cap and rotor. The contacts on the cap have little ridges worn on all of them, and the rotor has a lil bit of corrosion on the tip of it. Im gonna run to the parts store and pick up a new air filter, cap+rotor, and maybe plug wires. I might as well get them I guess.... The engine is lacking power/acceleration badly....

Convert it to a Chevy 350! haha :headbang:

Yea, it is a 93 Loyale 4wd pushbutton manual. Ive been checking around, and; Plugs are good, wires IDK?, cap and rotor looks ok?, fuel filter is good, after looking at my MAF sensor there was a piece of filter paper on it? so I look at my air filter and there is a ************ing HOLE in it?!? the size of a golf ball! So Im guessing something got sucked into the intake/carb thingy(its SPFI but i cant remember the name of it lol) So im about to go look into that.... And I got the IAC code a week ago briefly, but havent seen the code yet since then?

Yea so I turn the key the engine revs to about 1K and immediately shuts down. If I give it gas nothing happens, the only way that I can keep it running is if I QUICKLY pump the gas pedal. Once the RPM's get up past 4500K it runs fine(but only at high rpms) PS- The car's exhaust system is practically non existant-it has soooo many leaks. It is loud as hell. The rest of the story- The car has been running badly for the last month or so(stumbles + misses, low power) but I haven't had the time/lazy to check it out, so as im driving one night the car rpms just stop moving up if I give it any gas and they drop causing me to go over to the side of the road, this is where it starts doing what i mentioned above, after about 3-5 min. of pumping the gas it runs good enough to drive home. So the next day it runs ************ty(but still runs) so I drive it, and at that afternoon it dies again and I can't get it to start. Finally after pumping the gas it runs so terrible but i drive it home anyway because i had no choice. Now IDK what to do, but Ive already missed one day of school so I need to fix it ASAP. Im gonna go and check some basic things right now.......

Fixed....If I would have stopped freaking out, I would have realized that alls I had to do was lay down, and hit the tire from underneath the car. Duh.

I cant get the damn rear wheel off my 93 Loyale wagon. The lug nuts are off, but I cant get the damn wheel off. I sprayed WD40 around the thing, and have been beating at it with a hammer. WTF do I do. I NEED to finish christmas shoppin!

So I recleaned the MAF and CTS with Carb Cleaner,fixed the sensor by soldering it, So now I DO NOT have a CEL, but the car runs rough still AND the temp guage on my dash does not work/ Somehow another guage(located right next to the CTS) is broke, they look identical Except, the one that is broke only has 1 wire to it. I used seafoam the otherday, lots of smoke, didnt help much, if any. Oh, anw when I ran it in D-Check(green connectors?) The light started flashing after a few minutes of driving? what does that mean?