NewDriverOlderRide

1993 Loyale 5 Spd. pushbutton 4WD Alright, So my car is runnin like crap(Barely drivable) It seems to get worse the more I drive it, It has these syptoms in warm OR cold weather. It is very rough, Stumbles horribly, bogs, has crap acceleration(I couldnt even get it past 55mph!), sounds kind of "muffled" if that makes sense. So I search here and find out about the MAF and Coolant Sensors are common causes for this behavior.....So Today I goto clean them with some oven cleaner(I know Im retarded.) Anyways, I start to pull the wires off of some sensor(its located next to the Coolant sensor, they look very similar, except this one has 2 small wires going onto it) So I figure It wouldnt hurt to clean that sensor too, So i try to pull off those wires and one of then breaks(beyond the point of repair) So I immediately check if the car starts and luckily it does, BUT now my CEL is on so I check the codes and get this: With NO connectors plugged in I get 21Coolant temperature sensor or circuit With the White connectors I get: 11Crank angle sensor or circuit 13Crank angle sensor or circuit 21Coolant temperature or circuit 23Air flow meter or circuit 24Air control valve or circuit Whoa! I break one wire and now ALL OF THESE appear!?! keep in mind that my CEL never was on until after i broke the wire. The car is still running terrible, no improvement at all. Where do I begin? or should I just bring it to a shop? Thanks, Tyler.

Change your flasher fluid. Yup, that'll do it. :banana:

Maybe I spoke to soon? My mom said that after she went to start it this morning, it didn't have enough juice to start the car....but the battery wasnt completely dead. The car was only drove for about 10 min. after the new alt was put in. Then she had to jump it again to get home from work today. Ideas?

Thank You!!!!!!!!! New Alternator Fixed It!

Thanks Davalos.... Another important bit of info....After I bought the NEW battery, when I installed it.....the lights and electronics worked, the car started on its own...I then shut it off and went to sleep....What could be draining the battery? The door is shut completely, I have NO radio. Ideas?

Ok...Now that I got your attention.... This about my 1993 Subaru Loyale S/W pushbutton 4WD. The only akward things I noticed before this started was everyonce in awhile upon starting the car, the RPM's would drop from 1000 to about 200 really fast about 10 times, and then it would be alright. And the other thing is that sometimes the charge and oil light would be dimly lit while the car is idling, if you rev it they would go away... Here's the story. So my car battery is dead.......I figure, no problem....I jump it and it starts right up and dies? WTH?! The battery was corroded, even though it was only 1 year old...So i figures it has a bad cell, So I go to Sears and get a new batt. I Installed it, try to start the car and it started and dies.....STILL. I let it sit overnight.... So I jump the car, it starts, I rev it for a while, disconnect jumper box, and it dies. so. I do it again, and it keeps running, then I tried to adjust the clock and the car dies shortly after i pressed the Hour button? ....so I jump it AGAIN and goto turn AC on and car immediatly stalls:mad: ....I check and replace bad fuses...jump the car again toggle AC on and off, everytime AC is on the car dies (it just sputters out real bad even if I hold the pedal down)? The battery is apparently not taking the charge(if there is one?) I need to fix this ASAP! Any Ideas? BTW the car hasnt had any electrical mods or radios etc....

Thanks for the replies...keep em comin'

OK, from the beginning. I bought my 93 Loyale 4WD S/W with the stock radio and blown speakers, I then bought a wiring harness adaptor and faceplate from crutchfield. So, I went through the car, and changed in some marine Alpine speakers(they were free), I used the stock Sub. wiring. I also put speakers in the rear doors, because they were already wired for it(stock). I then bought 2 12'' R.F. Subs and an amp and installed that....I had all of this wired up to my 300$ Clarion ProAudio Headunit. Everything worked great for about 3 1/2 months. As I was driving home with my mom we had the radio turned low, and we were just talking....then the sound stopped coming from my radio? it still was lit up etc. though. So shortly after that I smelt something that seemed like burning, and I saw smoke coming out of my head unit, so I quickly detached the faceplate and it stopped, I noticed that the fuse for the clock/pwr seatbelts was burnt out because of this? So a few days later, I pull out the head unit, see nothing out or the norm, and put it back, I also changed the bad fuse. So I put on the radio, and the only sound that I have coming out is to my Subs. So I just gave up and took out the subwoofer wiring headunit etc. and left the door speakers there. Fast forward to now. So I hook up wiring for a headunit, I try to put in our old CD player that used to be in our boat. It worked for about 15 sec. and then the saound mysteriously stopped AGAIN. I cant figure it out....So I try to hardwire a small speaker DIRECTLY from the headunit, and no sound comes out of that either! Sooooo, I try to hookup the expensive Clarion again, and try to hardwire the small speaker to that, and again, NO SOUND. So I pull out the stereo stuff and say screw it and give up. I then noticed that the SAME fuse is burnt out again, so I replace the 15A with a 30A. Ok, so what are your guys' thoughts, ideas, tips, w/e? Why do you think that the clock/seatbelt fuse burns out, but NOT the radio fuse?

Ok basically, I had a reputable company install a refurbished new clutch kit, and i have a 90 day warrantee.... the problem(s) 1. It is hard to shift gears with the stick, and I mean hard. it started out fine, but has gotten worse and worse over the last week and a half. 2. clutch pedal has about 3-4 in. play before it has ANY resistance. 3. in order to shift into reverse, I have to turn the car off, put it into reverse, start the car back up, drive away. Otherwise, the gear GRINDS and i cant get into reverse cuz it keeps spinnin? sorry for the ************ty discriptions...if you have any ?'s just type em' up. Thanks.

Goto the Classifieds section of the forum. I got one from "junkyardgabe" for 20$ in working condition.

This thread needs pics.

HAHAHAHA That's BY FAR! the cheapest one. Most of my estimates that I have recieve are from 600-900 LABOR! NOT INCLUDING THE DAMN PART!! I also just found out the clutch they will be putting in is refurbished, I don't like the thought of that? do you think I will be ok with it?

Ok, so I'm gonna do it this way. I found a transmission shop who will tow my car for free, charge me 357$ Labor, and the price of the part is 175$ through them. The benfit of purchasing the clutch threw them, is that it is warrantied in case something happens. I would love to be able to replace it myself, I just don't have the knowledge/skills and no one around me really does either because I'm only 16.

Hey I had the same problem, I went to Home Depot, Picked up threaded rod the same diameter and a washer/nut to go with it, Heated it up with a torch, and bent a hook on the end. It works perfect.

C'mon people!!! Im desperate here, I've been starnded about a week!

Better yet, just find the best clutch for me on ebay http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=R40&satitle=loyale+clutch looking to spend around 150$ or less. PS. my wagon is pushbutton 4WD

Same Price, deifferent brand? So what is better for regular street driving? I'm 16 so the occasional popping of the clutch might happen:headbang: Thanks.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Loyale-XT-1-8L-clutch-kit-1985-1994-10624_W0QQitemZ7963320208QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33730QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You HAVE to try!

Im thinking about bleeding mine, I have a new MC and new rear pads on my Loyale, I installed them a few months back, and bled them, If I didnt bleed them "good" enough, would the pedal be HARDER to push, or sink to the floor easier? Mine sinks to the floor??

Is there anything else I should do while Im doin' the clutch? My car has 140000 mi. No leaks, but it has the T.O.D. every couple of days.....?

Anyone else got opinions?

Thanks, No offroading for me though, just a reliable daily driver....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exedy-Clutch-Kit-for-1985-94-1-8L-Subaru-Loyale-4WD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33730QQihZ019QQitemZ7977090748QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V Is that a good deal? I'm new to the whole clutch thing, but I hear Exedy is like the best clutch manufacturer. Will I need anything else when I'm replacing the clutch? My car is a 93 Loyale, 5 Spd. Pushbutton 4WD. Thanks, Tyler

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Mine blew out yesterday also. It does sound really mean. On the other hand, mine blew at the Catalyic Converter...At least the sound comes from there I think. However, I was trying to sell my car.....So I guess I'll have to go down 200$ or so. :-\