3eyedwagon

Good chances that pickup was speed limited to 102 mph. Aside from that, my 82 wagon passed a 74 air cooled VW with a hefty tailwind, and I had premium in the tank, and it was a blue moon, on a Friday I do believe.

You guys went to Pull-A-Part without me? I feel so..... betrayed. I was gonna come down tomorrow for sure. I need to get in gear, and get that stuff from you so I'm ready to go for Saturday. I'd probably be up to a trip to B-Ham.

Woody, and I worked on the Brat quite a bit yesterday. It's getting real close to wrapped up. I think he was going to fire it up today. I was just joking about the eggnog Scott. Woody, and I were talking though, and we are bringing quite a bit of food, and other supplies. We both remember a few trips that ""went a little long"". That's the one advantage the wagons have over the Brats, if it turns into an all nighter; we brought our own beds!

[quote name=Scott in Be these are hankooks dont remember the model but I would get them in a 27" over the swampers, the swampers are the best for mud but most of your driving ends up on the road, swampers seen to be a bit soft and will wear on the road Those are the Hankook DynaPro MT RT03 I was talking about earlier. They are about $450 plus tax for a set of 215/75/15s. They are great tires.

I'm cool with that. You bringing the eggnog?

Those wouldn't look too bad as long as they had the right tires. Something aggressive and large to take away from all that alloy. I'm just wondering if the 4x140 are five spoke. The ones in the pic are 6 lug, and some models change spoke count for different numbers of lug. At least, American Racing does that alot anyways. As in, the same model wheel for a one ton has 8 spokes for 8 lugs, but only 6 for a half ton 6 lug truck. I'm just wondering out loud at this point. Being from Indonesia kinda makes me concerned honestly. Anyone find a price?

Check out the Hankook Dynapro MT RT03. They come in 215/75/15 which is just over 27.5". They're a rip off of the Toyo Open Country M/T. Not identical, but a good copy. They're like $113 a tire though.

Yeah. He's been working hard on it. The bumpers are done. It just needs a little bit of wiring done, and a few odds-n-ends tied up. I'm pretty pumped to see that thing on the road. From literally sitting in a field, on its' body, to Walker in a couple of long months. It'll be good to have another one on the road in MV.

Sounds good. You want to make an upper motor mount for your car this week? I'm not sure how much it helps, but it seems like it would. What all are you up to this week? I'm going to be a Woody's all day Saturday. He wanted to do some electrical, and get it all finished.

OK. Thanks man. I just wanna swap it out, and see if that is the cause for the rear axle bind. Woody has me pretty convinced that that's it. That's pretty much all I need to do to be ready. I'm gonna go rewire my distributor so the tach stops jumping, and fix my original strut blocks so I'll be back to plus 1" in the front.

Got the door problem solved. :banana: :banana: I felt that deserved a bunch of dancing bananas. I seriously would like to meet the man who engineered that setup though. Even though we would have a severe language barrier; I have a feeling he would understand my disdain for his work. He may limp for the rest of his life also. Hey Jeff, I was wondering if I could try Justice's old moustache bar while I'm fooling around with a new setup.. Do you have the complete setup, like the brackets that bolt to the body, and the nuts for them? I'm not certain if I can find my old stuff.

Yeah, the paint is drying as I write this. I just used some exhaust tubing that fit a can / bottle nice and snug. Recessed it about 3 inches. I wanted just the top of a Coke can to stick out of it. That way it's not sloshing around in there.

Haven't figured out the door issue as of yet. I'm still a little disgusted with the whole scenario. I'll work on it this week, and if I can't get it together properly there may be two scenarios playing out very soon: A: I weld some nuts in the unibody and the drivers door fits poorly. Then I wheel this thing till I stops moving. B: The whole setup ends up for sale real cheap like, just whoever buys it may not enjoy a drivers doorless trip home. And then I end up going back to General Motors who actually puts stops in their bodies to prevent these kinds of occurences from happening.

Yeah, that's on the river in the bottom of 10acres. That place is junk now, but was close by the day I took it for a spin with the new doors.

For your application, MIG sounds like your best option. I'm not saying it is your only option, you could try TIG, or even stick. Heck, you could even try submerged arch if you like. TIG will take you much more time to learn. It is a great process for light sheet metals, pipe, and even up to heavier metals. However, it is slow, and kind of difficult to learn. "Stick welding", or SMAW is also great. Stick welding is highly portable, it is cheap to perform, the machines are the cheapest to buy, and they can be run on a small ammount of power. However, stick is also hard for a new welder to learn, it requires the correct storage of welding rod that can go bad, it can be very frustrating, and it does not work well on thin metal. In all honesty, MIG welding, specifically "Hard Wire" or GMAW is going to be your best bet. IF you desire to some day do much thicker metal, "Dual Shield" or FCAW may also be something you wish to consider. But, you should know that many MIG welding machines can do "Flux Cored", "Hard Wire", and "Dual Shield". Most fair to good welding machines can perform all 3 of these welding procedures with a few simple changes. For what it sounds like you will be doing, I highly suggest "Hard Wire" welding. It is clean, simple to learn, forgiving, and highly versatile. "Hard Wire" is what is most commonly used by automotive body shops because of its speed, ease of use, and it can be performed cool enough to work really well on the lighter gauge sheet metals. This makes it perfect for what you wish to do. Hard wire also has the range to weld thicker steels, like up to 1" no problem if you have a big enough machine. As for a machine, I would recommend buying a brand name machine. I'm sure there are a bunch of people in the world that have had good experiences buying a welder off the back of a tool sale truck, but I'd bet there are just as many whom haven't. This machine is going to be a good chunk of change. At least $300 plus, depending on what you buy! So for that kind of change, I would advise you to buck up and get a brand name welder. By this I'm saying; MILLER, LINCOLN, HOBART (Canadian Miller). These companys are the big names for a reason. Miller has won the Consumer Electronics Award for like 23 years in a row . That's pretty impressive. I'm not advocating one brand or another, and the people who have each will be diehard loyals. It's kinda like comparing Chevy, Ford, and Dodge. At any rate, all 3 of these companys have great little MIG welders that will suite your needs wonderfully. The Millermatic series from Miller, Lincoln has the Power Mig series, and the Hobart Handler series are all great 110v powered welders that will do 1/4" plus steel with the proper metal preparation. You can expect to spend about $700 dollars (with bottle) for one of these setups. If you would like some advice on individual machines, PM me and I'd be glad to help you find one best for you. If I were you, I would start by researching MIG welding. There are literally thousands of videos, books, and websites devoted to the education of welding. The AMERICAN WELDING SOCIETY offers a limited time free membership, and their website is brimming with welding information. Also, most major welding companys have websites that contain valuable welding information as well. I would suggest taking your time when purchasing a machine, and don't just run out and buy the first thing that Jim Bob says is THE BEST EVER. If you buy a good machine, it's going to be around a long time, and you don't want to kick yourself every time you try to use the thing, and it doesn't do what you wanted it to do. Hope that is of some help. Any questions, let me know. Good luck!

Yeah, I hear you there. I just came in from the shop, finished smearing some glaze, and sanding them. A few more little trinkets to put on, like my flexy mirrors (darn state laws), some beverage holders , and they will be ready for paint. Team CF, I'm definitely a friend of the mud, but I'm gonna have to watch it. The interior on my wagon is in pretty darn good shape, and I hope to keep it that way. Luckily, those doors change out in like 2 minutes! What I couldn't believe was the weight savings between the stock door, and the cut ones. I knew all the glass, guts, interior pieces, and etc. weighed alot, but I was still awed by how much weight difference there is between the two. I'll weigh one of each, a stock roll up window, a stock power window, and my "2/3 door" as I like to call it. Chris, You really gonna Lambo that RX? :)I'll have no part in it! The kits are pretty cheap, and they really aren't that hard to do. There's a whole bunch of manufacturers for the kits in pretty much any Street-Truck, or Rice-Rocket mag out there. I knows there's TONS of ads for them in all my "Street Trucks" magazines. I think they're like $400-$1000, all depending on if you want them motorized or not.

Yeah, I thought that's what they looked best for. The BFG at's work great in the snow. I figured these would clog up in mud, and anything too sticky, but probably float pretty good in the snow. Thanks!

Anyone who lives in Washington knows it only takes a little bit of sunshine to get us all excited for summer time. My answer to the recent good weather was to get the wagon ready for summer wheelin' trips! So, I made me some half doors.... I took it out for a spin about 5:00pm, and man..... I left the door handles, because I like 2nd gen door handles. I'm really glad I did, the meat left above it makes a great armrest. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19203&limit=recent http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19201&limit=recent If these links don't work, the photos are in my gallery. I had a little trouble sizing them down, but they aren't too bad considering they're from my phone.

Good deal! Do you have many miles on them? I'm wondering how well they wear over time..... Thanks

After the weather today, I'm sure hoping it is nice for this trip. Not that I dislike some tacky mud to play in. It would just be nice to see some sunshine. Now that I think about it, I've never been to Walker when the sun was shining.

Smoke? Smoke? Hmmmmm.. I think I like smoke.

Hey Nick, Glad to see you are having fun, and resolved your problem! I hope I could be of some help. I really like the seats in your super clean Brat.

Just wondering if anyone has tried these. http://www.generaltire.com/generator/www/us/en/generaltire/automobile/themes/van/all_terrain/grabber_at2/master_en.html The kinda look similar to the BFG All Terrain. They make them in some Subaru friendly sizes too: 27x8.50x14 205x75x15 215x75x15 30x9.50x15 235x75x15 So, IF you have ever TRIED/USED these: LET US KNOW WHAT YOU THINK. Thanks!

OK. I figured the seal would be hard to find by application. I'm just gonna try to hunt one down with the old magic NAPA seal book. Thanks for your help.

Do you know by any chance, how to remove the steering input shaft on that? I've cleaned that groove around it all out, and I don't see any snap ring or anything else of the sorts.