3eyedwagon

I've had a worn axle kinda jump outta joint for a bit. It performed similarly to what you describe, and it did make a loud clunk when it happened. It was strange that it had enough slop to do that, but not break. I couldn't get it freed up, so drove in a tight circle while in 4wd to get it to pop loose. My fronts do this from time to time, after a sharp corner... Maybe check the CVs to make sure they aren't in a strange bind. Other than that..... My next ideas would be rearend, and then transmission problems. Possibly driveline damage as well. One more thing I recall. It's a long shot but; if someone had installed a non-matching set of gearing, like a 3.9 D/R transmission, and a 3.7 rear differential, this could result in alot of bind while on pavement. Just an idea seeing as you just bought it. You may want to look at the rear diff tag to see what gearing it is, and compare that to what transmission is in it. Hard to diagnose over the net though! GOOD LUCK!

Well played on the paintshop skills Rob! Disregard the rest of my post, as I thought you were up to something totally different... You do want to run the door too don't you? If so, you're a little over my head.....

My 82 Gl-10 has it, but it's the oldest one I've seen with it.....

Two words: Lug Studs **** would be flying EVERYWHERE. BUT.... it would be cool while it lasted!

*Points* *SHRIEKS* Blasphemer!!! HOW DARE YOU! Anyways..... my personal preference for a wheeler would be an EA81 hatch. They are the ultimate for so many reasons. Approach, departure, smaller=nicer on trail, better engine, and they actually have some character in the looks department!! I could go on... I wheel an EA81 wagon, and I am looking at making an EA82 wheeler for the ONLY reason that I won't feel bad when I beat the snot out of an ugly vehicle that the world has plenty of. The EA82 does have a few advantages like better axles, and more plentiful power steering components, but that BARELY makes up for their looks. I know people are gonna be all pissy about that. The final straw for me is that the EA81 has so many cooler choices for making a wheeler. You have the Brat, the Hatchback, the Wagon, The Sedan, and the Coupe. The EA82 has the Wagon, the Sedan, The Hatch/3door/RX. I'll always have an EA81 with a lift, just because they are so cool. But I definitely need to build an EA82 trail rig to make my EA81s life a little longer. But the EA82 is coming out in favor of a built EA81... :-p

Just stopped by to say that XTs are for sissys, and guys who drive Third Gen Wagons WITH AUTOMATICS!!!! Hahahahahaha!

The wheel offset isn't going to mean a whole lot, considering you are putting these on a non-lifted EA-81. I had 205/75/14s on my wagon with no lift, but the pinch seems had been re-worked lightly. It all really depends on how much hammering YOU want to do. There is no set answer to this question. There are plenty of people on here who have run 235/75/15s with NO lift, it just takes a zzz"bit":grin: more hammering. So the answer to this question is really up to you, and what you want from the car. If you want to wheel it; jack up the torsion bar/struts, beat the wheel wells out, and stuff some 215-225/70-75/15s or bigger on there. If you don't want to scratch any stock paint, or so much as bruise a pinch seem; find something like a 195/70/15 or so. If you want something in between; jack the torsion bar a bit, lift the struts halfway (that's all the further I'd go anyways), lay over the pinch seems in the front wheel wells, and run a nice 205/70-75/15. It all really depends on what you want to do.

I can't wait to see the fenders peeled off of this one Scott! The marker lights are already trembling!

Is that a Landloser? It actually looks better from that angle!

I'm starting to notice that the unibody of my loyale is becomeing a wear item. The more and more frequent welding of the suspension mounting points back to the rest of the body was the first sign,... This could have something to do with it..... Is this what you mean about the tranny lasting until the car retires? I know slop in the chassis has spelled disaster for a few of my latest CV's.

What motor? Any thing else done to it? A transfer case, etc.

I say we settle all these "conflicts" with Thunderdome. 2 men enter, one man leaves. Mods, please make this a sticky. Thanks.

Not gonna happen, man.... Not gonna happen. I'm sorry I missed it. Jeff told me I should go, but I was tired, and being lazy.:-p

^^^^^ Kinda sounds like exactly what I said, but in slightly fancier words. I'll repeat what I thought was the most important part of my post; As long as you are doing the maintenance. That is the important part! It's better to use the cheap stuff, and actually change your oil than to hold off because you have to get the super top notch synthetic.

Good. Now we just gotta get Woody to go.

Sounds like you two have the right idea. A .22 is a good idea for most any situation, unless you plan on encountering "The Griz" . I have a Walther p22 in my wheeling kit. The kit is easily transported from vehicle to vehicle, so the pistol never leaves the kit. It's a REALLY handy little pistol, comes in a blow molded case, and the case holds extra mags/about 250 spare rounds, and a lithium ion powered led flashlight (just for a nice backup light, in case others run out of batteries). It has proved handy a few times, not to mention all the fun that has been had just pulling it out and plinking with it when the opportunity arose. Anyways, the reason for this is I remembered another one. I usually carry about half to a full quart of USED motor oil. Anyone who has ever wheeled much in Western Washington weather already knows what I am speaking of. It works great for touching off a good fire in those "damp" situations.

Does this mean a no-go for the last weekend in this month???? I think you should just bring it up here, and "finish it off".....

Napa's store oil is made by Havoline, one of the largest oil manufacturers in the world. I'm sure all the other automotive chains use similar practices. It's kinda like buying batteries; lotsa companies sell them, but only a few companies make them! I think everyone here is dead on the ****, as long as you stay with an oil that has correct certification, and ratings; you are fine. I've been running NAPA oil in almost all of our company rigs for years now. The main thing is to keep up on the maintenance.

I think everyone has a good list going. I would definitely change the chain to a strap though. I know I'm going to get for this one, but I could really care less. I've found this super handy for both vehicle excursions, and more importantly hiking excursions. I always carry a rifle, or pistol of some sort. This may be protested by some, but where I live, and have grown up; it is a tool that can be compared to a shovel or an axe. There are some things that a firearm can do that nothing else can. My brother, and I once got lost south east of our home for 17 days. Luckily, against my mothers advice; I had packed my Ruger 10/22 bullpup, and ample ammunition. That little bit of insurance kept me, and my bro from spending two very hungry weeks wandering the Cascades. That rifle was nothing fancy by any means, just a $250 chunk of steel, and plastic. But the jobs that a firearm can perform are often worth their weight to lug along. I also carry a small carbine in my vehicles, as deer/elk are ALWAYS getting hit on my stretch of highway. As sad as it was, I once had to put down a horse after it had been hit by a Mustang. As much as it sucked; I was glad I happened by so that horse didn't have to spend 30 painful minutes thrashing around in broken glass. I tend to not like to let things suffer, if I don't have to. Also, once while in Search & Rescue, my group located an injured hunter after he used the international 3 shot call of distress. Whatever your opinion on them may be, firearms, while they must be respected, are INCREDIBLY useful tools.

Not that many, but I got a few One Eye Audiophile Scott In Bellingham R Kirky Alaska Style Qman Zap There's a couple others I met at Scott's shop, but I can't remember their board names.

I would guess that's why he is using 10w-40. I usually bump oil viscosity up in the summer time, in preparation for trips through mountain passes in higher temperatures than normal. I've never found any real problems with running a slightly higher viscosity than usual. Especially if it is a multi-viscosity oil. Then again, everything I do this to is high mileage, and usually a v8. So, chances are; I'm not going to hurt it.

Ahh. I shoulda noticed that from the color, and slight blur. Good camera work man!

Check the door jams, the radiator core support, and be sure to read the vin plate thouroughly. Sometimes it is kinda hidden on there. Those are my only ideas.:-\

Step 1: Get one of those motion sensor lights from Home Depot. Step 2: Sheet metal screw it to the rear, above the license plate. Step 3: Wire a short cord with a common house plug. Step 4: Buy a Honda Inverter Technology generator. They are really a great investment anyways. Step 5: Place the generator in the rear of you vehicle, and run the short cord from the light to it. Step 6: Every time you plan on driving some where; start the generator! Now, when the police officer pulls in behind you; he will trip the motion sensor, and your "license plate light" will automatically turn on!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: Glad I could be of some help!