3eyedwagon

Dang Rob, You are goin' for it man! Good to see! Looks like I'm playing catch up! Yes, I have joined the dark side.... but only because the 2nd gens deserve to be saved, and the 3rd gens are so ugly that they deserve to be punished. Let us southerners know if you need anything!

Hey all, I just got an 11 of 1988 GL Wagon It has the EA82 with SPFI, and a D/R trans. The car runs EXTREMELY rich, and before Jeff helped me tinker with it; it would not idle, or even run below 3,000 RPM. Also, getting the motor to rev to 3,000 was quite a chore, and even then it wasn't making power. Jeff (One Eye) was kind enough to loan me a MAF sensor off of his Touring wagon. We installed the borrowed MAF, and played with a few sensors. We were then at least able to limp it to his place, and trouble shoot some more. The car ran RICH the entire trip. I cannot emphasize how rich the car ran. I am not certain if the MAF sensor helped, or if it was the fact that the car had time to sit while Jeff, and I installed it. Jeff is leaning towards the Thermo Temp Sensor in the intake manifold (two wire pigtail, with a valve cover blue/green plug), as that was a problem that produced very similar results for him in the past. I have no idea what to check, and that sensor is kinda pricey for a replace, and see kind of move. With the sensor unplugged, the car will not start under a "warm" condition. With the sensor plugged in, and the throttle WIDE OPEN; the car will slowly chug to a start. However, leaving the sensor plugged in will result in the car running poorly. Just want to verify with some other experiences that is my problem before I plop the coin for the thing. Also, Jeff said that the one for his MPFI setup was around $20. The cheapest I could find for this SPFI one was $62 at Schmucks. Anyone know how much of an actual difference we are looking at between these two? Just for giggles. I'll get to the point, for the skimmers in the crowd, :-p The only code flashing under the dash is: 5 Just wanted to add a big THANKS JEFF for all your help this weekend. The guy found me a car (!A STEAL!), helped me negotiate a price, then helps me work on it today.... on his Sunday (even if it was Pocono) . What a guy.

Killer info guys! Sounds like it isn't even that big of a deal. This definitely opens up the window on what to look for out there. Thanks for the help!!

Why, in the sweet name of jeebus, would anyone willingly put the scourge known as ABS on a vehicle? It's something that was sold to the world under false premises, now everyone thinks they need it. If everyone took the time to play around a bit, go out, and learn to really drive; they would quickly realize how incredibly worthless it actually is. I once measured the stopping distance of my 1995 S-10 with ABS equipped versus my 1964 Chevrolet Impala (4 huge drums of glory). On dry pavement, the Impala stopped something like 12 feet sooner from 60mph. That was consistently. On the WSP skid pad, with an inch of water on pavement, the Impala STILL out broke the S-10 by a consistent 10 foot'ish from 40mph. I then tried the S-10 with the ABS dissabled, and it promptly handed the Impala its' @**. I really think you should just go out to some deserted roads, and practice some extremely aggressive panic stops. You will be FAR better off. If nothing else, look at it this way: ABS is a mechanism, and what is one thing that is true of ALL mechanisms? At some point, IT WILL FAIL

I don't actually have a car, as of yet. I have however been finding alot of cheap 4wd automatic Loyales. They are much more plentiful than the HI/LOW cars here as of late. I am basically wondering as to the time/cost of doing this conversion VERSUS waiting and finding the right car with most of the parts already on it. I have 3 in mind. Two are sedans, one wagon. All are 4wd, and all are automatics. They are all late 80s to very early 90s. This car will be a LIFTED wheeler, so things like dash lights, fabricating shifter linkages, cutting small holes, making a driveline, etc. WILL NOT be of any real concern. All 3 are non-turbos, and that is a relief, as I don't care much to mess with adapter CV's. Especially on a vehicle that will be wheeled, and will probably wear out CV's more commonly than a street rig. Thanks for the info guys!

That piece is plastic??? It looks like a door striker to me, although I don't know why it would be that low in the door. Is there anything that lines up with it on the door itself. Maybe a pic of the underside....

This may sound kinda silly, but did you check to see if you have a bulb out. I'm mostly into domestically made vehicles, and this is how they indicate that the vehicle has a bulb out. If it is only in one direction, that could most likely be your case. Turn your hazards on, and do a walk around.

I did a search, and it yielded few results. 3rd gen / EA82 Has anyone ever swapped one of these from an AUTOMATIC TO A 5 SPEED? I would be doing a HI/LOW, just fyi. Just wondering if anyone here has ever done it, and if so; what all is required. Here's a short list of what I think would need to be done. Anyone who knows better; please fill me in. -Need 5 speed, with linkage, and all the clutch goodies -Need 5 speed trans cross member -Need 5 speed driveline (I have no idea on the length of the one from an AT) -Need 3.9 rear end to match the 5 speed -Need complete clutch pedal assembly/clutch cable, etc. (Is this a remove/bolt in situation, or is there some fabrication involved?) -???Need Hubs all around??? ???Different Spline Count from AT to 5 speed??? I have no idea on this. -Fabricate linkage for 5 speed (no big deal, the car would be lifted at the same time) -Cut suitable opening in trans tunnel for 5 speed linkages (again, no big deal) -Either hang carrier bearing, or make one-piece driveline That's about all I can think of. If anyone here has done this, please let me know of any problems you encountered. THANKS!

Tough to say man. Planning a parts trip down south for this weekend. Desperately need that power steering rack. Might as well do it while I'm in there.... Also wouldn't mind doing the 5speed dance while I have it all torn apart. So things kind of hinge on this parts run this weekend. This also reminds me, I might be the least of concern. I can't think of anyone around here who is ready to go, and really only Woody has a suitable ride. Maybe Justice too, but overall; it's pretty limited. We had better start warning people around here.

Pull that POS, and don't look back. My wagon drives great without it. I love the way it heals over when I corner hard. It was a little strange getting used to, but once you do; it is very predictable, and pretty forgiving. Be sure to hold on to it though. I actually used a good curved section of mine to extend the shift linkage during the lift. There is a section on an EA81 swaybar that works almost perfect for the jog needed to work around the 4spd hi/lo linkage.

Skinning cats by High Intensity Discharge.... isn't that a song by Billy Idol?

I hear ya. Just make sure that mounting stud is long enough to go through the bumper, as well as your washer setup. I have seen this mounting style in both long, and short lengths. If you are going through the bumper, I would guess you will need at least 2 inches (51mm) of stud length. The washer setup should be plenty strong to stand up to the winds of freeway use, and should prevent much bouncing on the trails. Just use a good beefy washer design, and sandwhich it in there good and tight.

I advise you do, before I find the add, and figure out where these are.... These seriously won't stick around long at that price.

Just letting you know, you are being a little vague. And, there's a million ways to skin this cat. Just trying to point out why your previous post probably sank like a stone. It sounds to me like you have already figured most of it out. All you need to know is the length of the single mounting stud. Be glad that it has a pivot, as that will make you job much easier. Just measure the length of that stud, then guess the thickness of the bumper in the spot you wish to drill. If you are concerned about the strength of the plastic bumper, you need to investigate the backing material of this bumper. Like I said, there is probably some steel bracing inside there. I would guess it to be a heavier sheet metal type material. If that is the case, it should be ok. If you are concerned about it being to flimsy, manufacture some sort of large washer type device. Like a flat bar, or large diameter washer. Then put this between the nut, and the bumper on the bottom side. This will help disperse the stress put on the parent material of your bumper. Making it larger will disperse the stress further, so I'd advise making it as large as is easy to install. I would personally guess this would be strong enough for what it sounds like you want to do. I would guess the housing of these lights will probably break before they are ripped from the stock bumper. Especially if you use the washer method I described. If you want something more sturdy than that; I would advise looking into a custom steel bumper, or cutting larger holes in your stock bumper in favor of a heavier bracket mounted to the internal workings of the uni-body.

I got a problem Jeff So far, I've been having a hard time finding "exotic dancers" that even know what a come-a-long is............ let alone how to operate one. :dead: :dead: :dead: :dead: :dead: :dead:

Looks good man! When the heck did Sand Lake get a curfew???!???

Dude, There are about 40 variables I can think of here, so that's probably why your previous thread didn't go so well. You need to consider things like: * Your lights mounting style. -is it a single stud pointed downward (with, or without a pivot), or a h-stlye bracket that wraps around the lights. This may be important in the aiming of your lights. If they are cheap lights with no pivots in the mounting, you are going to need to configure the aim into your mounting. I can only guess as to the mounting configuration of your lights, so you are going to have to do the leg work on this one. * The makeup of the bumper you are bolting these to. -I have never had the front bumper off of a 3rd gen, but from the looks of it, I would guess it to be an outter plastic shell with a steel frame, and maybe even a bit of styrofoam thrown in for good measure. You will need to know if the mounting studs on your lights will reach through both the plastic bumper cover, and the steel bracing I would guess is in there. * Consider things like placement of the lights. - You say you want these lights on the bumper of a 3rd gen. The only logical place I can think to put them is in front of the grill (so as not to interfere with stock lighting). If you wish to place them in front of the grill, you may want to consider a possible over heating condition. The cooling system on these vehicles are already small, and your EA82 is incredibly sensitive to over heating. If you decide to put them in front of your grill; be sure your cooling system is in good working condition, and keep an eye on your temp gauge for awhile. At some point you are going to need to get on the ground, and take a look around under the vehicle. Look up under the bumper where you want the lights to go. This should answer most of your questions. Consider the length of the mounting studs, and the strength of the material you will be mounting to. Mounting to only plastic may hold them in place, but not very well. Given that everything underneath the car is to your liking; pick the spot you want, find the correct size drill bit, measure to make sure the spacing of your lights is even, then drill a big hole all the way through the top of the bumper. You should then bolt the lights to the top of the bumper in some fashion. You will then want to run both a ground, and a source of power to the lights, so that they will turn on. You may want to put the power source through some sort of switch, so that they may be turned on/off from inside the vehicle. This power source should probably also be fused. Or you can just run the wires up under the hood, and loop them around the battery terminals. This usually does a better job of impressing women. Then be sure to point the lights about 3 feet off the ground at 20/30 meters, and about 7 feet left of center. Now drive around with them on AT ALL TIMES. You should be all set.

SSSSSSHHHHHHH..... he's sleeping.

I'm gonna get so wasted the strippers will have to help come-along me out of a ditch. I'm even planning on bringing some guns!

Love Me Tender baby, and oh yeah.... your turn signal is on.... I think we need a smiley with a pompadour.:cool: Oh yeah, I forgot. These make for a great practical joke. I put one in a co-workers pickup, and I think he may have thought Elvis was haunting him.

Cut well PAST the rust. Meaning, be sure to get it ALL out. I've seen countless cases where people have skirted by rust, wanting to cut out as little as possible, and ended up hosing themselves to save a little bit of time. There's no point in having to go back in, and do it again in a couple of years.

No idea on a newer Sub, but on most domestics there are TWO (2) flashers; one for the turn signals, and one for the emergency hazards. These little flashers only live so long. You may want to poke around to find the turn signal one. I would guess it to be in the fuse panel, or near. Maybe under the dash, near the pedals, the glove box, side of dash exposed when opening door, etc., etc. It may say where it is located in your owners manual. I would suspect that there is another flasher unit in the same area as the turn signal one. If they are the same; you can trade them back and forth as a test for the flasher unit. If this is the case, they are cheap at any auto parts store. If you hit up JC Whitney..... you can even get one that plays Elvis songs when it is on!!! OH SNAP!

The H6054 setup in my 82 wagon works really quite well. The only complaint I would have about it is its slight dimming at low idle. How much light do you really need at low idle? The dims are more than enough, and the brights are great. Even without the use of the passing light, these lights are plenty for this car. I would challenge anyone to overdrive these lights, especially considering the fact that they are strapped to the front of a vehicle powered by an EA81.

I'd imagine wheels, tires, and engine. All the important stuff.... Good luck with the new one Rob! Let me know if you need anything fabricated!

IF you are speaking of dropping the front cross members one inch; you may want to rethink your plan. That is a bit of work for what you are getting. Others here have had success in using 2 inch blocks above the front struts, with little or no axle problems. Putting 1 inch blocks in the entire front crossmember grouping would be far more work than it is worth. Not to mention, you may need to address issues such as steering, and shifter linkages. I'm not sure exactly what you can get away with on a 3rd gen, but I wouldn't be surprised if these issues come into play - even if it is only an inch. The standard setup for the lift you speak of is FRONT= 2 inch blocks between the struts, and the factory strut mounting points These blocks should be cut at an angle to correct geometry, and prevent camber issues REAR= 2 inch lowering of factory strut mounting points 1 inch lowering of rear differential This setup seems to have worked fine for those who have used it. If you wish to go through the trouble of removing the crossmembers; I would honestly go for more than 1 inch of blocks...