3eyedwagon

Wow, We were just talking about that the other day... Good to see you back Chris!

Are the test connectors you speak of a bright "Lifesaver" kind of green, and located close to the driver's side fire wall, next to the fuel filter? If so, the single wire test connector was indeed left plugged together. I plugged everything else back together, and unplugged that single wired bright green connector: It started right up. I tried it multiple times, and it continues to start without problem. The engine still lags slightly from 2,000 to 3,000 rpm, but that could easily be contributed to the 275,000 on the clock..... I'll take it for a spin, see how it acts, and let you know.

EDIT OK, I'll go check that. Another question I had; There is a solenoid located slightly to the rear of the temps sensor. EDIT It is actually located directly behind the thermostat housing. It has 2 vaccuum lines, and a double wired pigtail with a black plug. EDIT This solenoid has been making a strange noise since I first started the car. With or without the engine running, it makes a clicking/popping sound. It does so every second, like clock work. With the key on, and engine not running; it is very easy to hear. This is met with a hum (very similar to a fuel pump hum) from what I believe is under the dash. EDIT This solenoid is currently unplugged, I left it that way, as it seemed to help in my attempt to get the car home yesterday. EDIT Jeff found the name of the solenoid in the book yesterday, but I forgot its' correct name. I do believe it had something to do with the cold start setup.

Just tested the Thermo Temp Sensor With the vehicle cool (sat overnight); the sensor measured around 1,400-1,500 Ohms. It was probably around 70 degrees, or slightly more. So, that seems to measure up to McDave's chart. I then ran the vehicle up to operating temp, checking the sensor periodically. It dropped fairly steadily until I stopped testing. I let the temp gauge reach a good 3/4 and measured. With the vehicle at high operating temperature; the sensor fluctuated in the 300 Ohm range. This seems to point to me that this may not be the problem. I'm not sure how "set in stone" those numbers on McDaves chart are, but everything seems to line up to me. Tell me what you guys think. Also, the car seems to be building alot of heat in the catalytic converter. I would suspect the rich running condition may be to blame for that. However, the cat is heating up enough to cook some of the accumulated oils of its heat shield at high operating temperature. The exhaust however does have good flow, and isn't spitting little chunks of crap out on the ground. I think the cat is still intact.

So I take it 5 is a model designation of sorts to describe what engine/fuel system is being dealt with? Just wondering for my own education. What's the standard way of running a full diagnostic check for this era of Subarus? Do I need an OBD1 scanner of some sort? Or is there a diagnostic arc port like on some other OBD1 systems? Just wondering what my best route to go here is... Would you happen to know the range I'd be looking at for a good sensor? Thanks for the help GD.

I can't believe you acutally said the T word. That's FAR worse than the dark side.

Dang Rob, You are goin' for it man! Good to see! Looks like I'm playing catch up! Yes, I have joined the dark side.... but only because the 2nd gens deserve to be saved, and the 3rd gens are so ugly that they deserve to be punished. Let us southerners know if you need anything!

Hey all, I just got an 11 of 1988 GL Wagon It has the EA82 with SPFI, and a D/R trans. The car runs EXTREMELY rich, and before Jeff helped me tinker with it; it would not idle, or even run below 3,000 RPM. Also, getting the motor to rev to 3,000 was quite a chore, and even then it wasn't making power. Jeff (One Eye) was kind enough to loan me a MAF sensor off of his Touring wagon. We installed the borrowed MAF, and played with a few sensors. We were then at least able to limp it to his place, and trouble shoot some more. The car ran RICH the entire trip. I cannot emphasize how rich the car ran. I am not certain if the MAF sensor helped, or if it was the fact that the car had time to sit while Jeff, and I installed it. Jeff is leaning towards the Thermo Temp Sensor in the intake manifold (two wire pigtail, with a valve cover blue/green plug), as that was a problem that produced very similar results for him in the past. I have no idea what to check, and that sensor is kinda pricey for a replace, and see kind of move. With the sensor unplugged, the car will not start under a "warm" condition. With the sensor plugged in, and the throttle WIDE OPEN; the car will slowly chug to a start. However, leaving the sensor plugged in will result in the car running poorly. Just want to verify with some other experiences that is my problem before I plop the coin for the thing. Also, Jeff said that the one for his MPFI setup was around $20. The cheapest I could find for this SPFI one was $62 at Schmucks. Anyone know how much of an actual difference we are looking at between these two? Just for giggles. I'll get to the point, for the skimmers in the crowd, :-p The only code flashing under the dash is: 5 Just wanted to add a big THANKS JEFF for all your help this weekend. The guy found me a car (!A STEAL!), helped me negotiate a price, then helps me work on it today.... on his Sunday (even if it was Pocono) . What a guy.

Killer info guys! Sounds like it isn't even that big of a deal. This definitely opens up the window on what to look for out there. Thanks for the help!!

Why, in the sweet name of jeebus, would anyone willingly put the scourge known as ABS on a vehicle? It's something that was sold to the world under false premises, now everyone thinks they need it. If everyone took the time to play around a bit, go out, and learn to really drive; they would quickly realize how incredibly worthless it actually is. I once measured the stopping distance of my 1995 S-10 with ABS equipped versus my 1964 Chevrolet Impala (4 huge drums of glory). On dry pavement, the Impala stopped something like 12 feet sooner from 60mph. That was consistently. On the WSP skid pad, with an inch of water on pavement, the Impala STILL out broke the S-10 by a consistent 10 foot'ish from 40mph. I then tried the S-10 with the ABS dissabled, and it promptly handed the Impala its' @**. I really think you should just go out to some deserted roads, and practice some extremely aggressive panic stops. You will be FAR better off. If nothing else, look at it this way: ABS is a mechanism, and what is one thing that is true of ALL mechanisms? At some point, IT WILL FAIL

I don't actually have a car, as of yet. I have however been finding alot of cheap 4wd automatic Loyales. They are much more plentiful than the HI/LOW cars here as of late. I am basically wondering as to the time/cost of doing this conversion VERSUS waiting and finding the right car with most of the parts already on it. I have 3 in mind. Two are sedans, one wagon. All are 4wd, and all are automatics. They are all late 80s to very early 90s. This car will be a LIFTED wheeler, so things like dash lights, fabricating shifter linkages, cutting small holes, making a driveline, etc. WILL NOT be of any real concern. All 3 are non-turbos, and that is a relief, as I don't care much to mess with adapter CV's. Especially on a vehicle that will be wheeled, and will probably wear out CV's more commonly than a street rig. Thanks for the info guys!

That piece is plastic??? It looks like a door striker to me, although I don't know why it would be that low in the door. Is there anything that lines up with it on the door itself. Maybe a pic of the underside....

This may sound kinda silly, but did you check to see if you have a bulb out. I'm mostly into domestically made vehicles, and this is how they indicate that the vehicle has a bulb out. If it is only in one direction, that could most likely be your case. Turn your hazards on, and do a walk around.

I did a search, and it yielded few results. 3rd gen / EA82 Has anyone ever swapped one of these from an AUTOMATIC TO A 5 SPEED? I would be doing a HI/LOW, just fyi. Just wondering if anyone here has ever done it, and if so; what all is required. Here's a short list of what I think would need to be done. Anyone who knows better; please fill me in. -Need 5 speed, with linkage, and all the clutch goodies -Need 5 speed trans cross member -Need 5 speed driveline (I have no idea on the length of the one from an AT) -Need 3.9 rear end to match the 5 speed -Need complete clutch pedal assembly/clutch cable, etc. (Is this a remove/bolt in situation, or is there some fabrication involved?) -???Need Hubs all around??? ???Different Spline Count from AT to 5 speed??? I have no idea on this. -Fabricate linkage for 5 speed (no big deal, the car would be lifted at the same time) -Cut suitable opening in trans tunnel for 5 speed linkages (again, no big deal) -Either hang carrier bearing, or make one-piece driveline That's about all I can think of. If anyone here has done this, please let me know of any problems you encountered. THANKS!

Tough to say man. Planning a parts trip down south for this weekend. Desperately need that power steering rack. Might as well do it while I'm in there.... Also wouldn't mind doing the 5speed dance while I have it all torn apart. So things kind of hinge on this parts run this weekend. This also reminds me, I might be the least of concern. I can't think of anyone around here who is ready to go, and really only Woody has a suitable ride. Maybe Justice too, but overall; it's pretty limited. We had better start warning people around here.

Pull that POS, and don't look back. My wagon drives great without it. I love the way it heals over when I corner hard. It was a little strange getting used to, but once you do; it is very predictable, and pretty forgiving. Be sure to hold on to it though. I actually used a good curved section of mine to extend the shift linkage during the lift. There is a section on an EA81 swaybar that works almost perfect for the jog needed to work around the 4spd hi/lo linkage.

Skinning cats by High Intensity Discharge.... isn't that a song by Billy Idol?

I hear ya. Just make sure that mounting stud is long enough to go through the bumper, as well as your washer setup. I have seen this mounting style in both long, and short lengths. If you are going through the bumper, I would guess you will need at least 2 inches (51mm) of stud length. The washer setup should be plenty strong to stand up to the winds of freeway use, and should prevent much bouncing on the trails. Just use a good beefy washer design, and sandwhich it in there good and tight.

I advise you do, before I find the add, and figure out where these are.... These seriously won't stick around long at that price.

Just letting you know, you are being a little vague. And, there's a million ways to skin this cat. Just trying to point out why your previous post probably sank like a stone. It sounds to me like you have already figured most of it out. All you need to know is the length of the single mounting stud. Be glad that it has a pivot, as that will make you job much easier. Just measure the length of that stud, then guess the thickness of the bumper in the spot you wish to drill. If you are concerned about the strength of the plastic bumper, you need to investigate the backing material of this bumper. Like I said, there is probably some steel bracing inside there. I would guess it to be a heavier sheet metal type material. If that is the case, it should be ok. If you are concerned about it being to flimsy, manufacture some sort of large washer type device. Like a flat bar, or large diameter washer. Then put this between the nut, and the bumper on the bottom side. This will help disperse the stress put on the parent material of your bumper. Making it larger will disperse the stress further, so I'd advise making it as large as is easy to install. I would personally guess this would be strong enough for what it sounds like you want to do. I would guess the housing of these lights will probably break before they are ripped from the stock bumper. Especially if you use the washer method I described. If you want something more sturdy than that; I would advise looking into a custom steel bumper, or cutting larger holes in your stock bumper in favor of a heavier bracket mounted to the internal workings of the uni-body.

I got a problem Jeff So far, I've been having a hard time finding "exotic dancers" that even know what a come-a-long is............ let alone how to operate one. :dead: :dead: :dead: :dead: :dead: :dead:

Looks good man! When the heck did Sand Lake get a curfew???!???

Dude, There are about 40 variables I can think of here, so that's probably why your previous thread didn't go so well. You need to consider things like: * Your lights mounting style. -is it a single stud pointed downward (with, or without a pivot), or a h-stlye bracket that wraps around the lights. This may be important in the aiming of your lights. If they are cheap lights with no pivots in the mounting, you are going to need to configure the aim into your mounting. I can only guess as to the mounting configuration of your lights, so you are going to have to do the leg work on this one. * The makeup of the bumper you are bolting these to. -I have never had the front bumper off of a 3rd gen, but from the looks of it, I would guess it to be an outter plastic shell with a steel frame, and maybe even a bit of styrofoam thrown in for good measure. You will need to know if the mounting studs on your lights will reach through both the plastic bumper cover, and the steel bracing I would guess is in there. * Consider things like placement of the lights. - You say you want these lights on the bumper of a 3rd gen. The only logical place I can think to put them is in front of the grill (so as not to interfere with stock lighting). If you wish to place them in front of the grill, you may want to consider a possible over heating condition. The cooling system on these vehicles are already small, and your EA82 is incredibly sensitive to over heating. If you decide to put them in front of your grill; be sure your cooling system is in good working condition, and keep an eye on your temp gauge for awhile. At some point you are going to need to get on the ground, and take a look around under the vehicle. Look up under the bumper where you want the lights to go. This should answer most of your questions. Consider the length of the mounting studs, and the strength of the material you will be mounting to. Mounting to only plastic may hold them in place, but not very well. Given that everything underneath the car is to your liking; pick the spot you want, find the correct size drill bit, measure to make sure the spacing of your lights is even, then drill a big hole all the way through the top of the bumper. You should then bolt the lights to the top of the bumper in some fashion. You will then want to run both a ground, and a source of power to the lights, so that they will turn on. You may want to put the power source through some sort of switch, so that they may be turned on/off from inside the vehicle. This power source should probably also be fused. Or you can just run the wires up under the hood, and loop them around the battery terminals. This usually does a better job of impressing women. Then be sure to point the lights about 3 feet off the ground at 20/30 meters, and about 7 feet left of center. Now drive around with them on AT ALL TIMES. You should be all set.

SSSSSSHHHHHHH..... he's sleeping.