3eyedwagon

I'd highly reccomend doing the lift yourself. Even with simple hand tools, and by asking a few questions here, you should be able to knock out a 2" 3rd gen lift no problem. The 2 inchers are really, really simple. I think you should be able to do it in about half a day. Especially if you have access to any grinders, bandsaws, drillpress, etc. But even with a good old fashioned hacksaw, a vice, a cordless/corded drill, and the necessary metal, it wouldn't be very difficult at all. There's nothing better than not only knowing how to do something, but also knowing why you had to do it.... and there's no better way to know than to do it on your own! Plus, you'll be able to say you did it yourself. :cool: Let me know if I can be of any help.

#1: Alot. #2: Depends on how much money went into it. If it is full of top notch parts, that motor will last well. If it is just an attempt by an engine shop to put up some numbers, that probably won't last at all. If it was built by an idiot, that just boosted the HE*L out of stock parts; it's already gone. As far as ice bagging, and spraying; I have two vehicles with ice boxes, and I've used the upside down bottle trick on countless intercoolers. Both my ice box rigs are driven regularly, anybody with an icebox knows that is what is great about them. When you aren't using them, they don't do anything but add about 3 pounds to the vehicle. Ice bagging, and intercooler misting are real world tricks that are incredibly simple, and produce real HP numbers in every situation. It is not a case of being a dyno queen, it is an intelligent, cheap way to squeeze every last horse out of what you have. Ice boxes have been around before you, and I. Take a look at some old Wendover footage, and you will see refrigerated ice trucks in the background for filling the land speed cars before their runs. Does that mean that bottle heaters are for dyno queens too, or just for someone with an understanding of science, and a desire to go slightly faster?

When I bought my car, the rear CV was frozen on. The best remedy I've found is lightly tapping a golf tee into the downhill side of the roll pin hole, and then filling the uphill side with whatever your preferred penetrating oil is. PB, and AeroKroil are both pretty good. If you have just been soaking the roll pin hole, the oil hasn't really had a chance to creep back onto the splines. Plugging that hole with a golf tee gives it nowhere else to go. As far as removing an axle for street manners, I don't think any of us north enders do. At least nobody I know. I've driven as far as Reiter with a welded rear. That's two, and a half hours. Once I got my rear CV geometry correct, I've had no issues on the street. The only wear I feel is from super tight turns, as might be made in the grocery store parking lot, and you learn quickly how to sidestep those maneuvers. Just learn to swing her a little wider, and listen to when things are really binding. The simple fact is that you are going to put more stress on those axles in the first mile of tight twisty trails than you did on the fifty mile highway drive there.

Just noticed the birthday feature at the bottom of the page, and guess whos birthday it is... Happy Birthday Todd, From one Side Burn enthusiast to another!

At that kind of mileage, it could be a great car, but it will probably need things from time to time. Even if the car has been really well maintained, it will probably need parts. Nothing against the car, just trying to tell you reality. You WILL be looking at repairs over time. Maybe things like a radiator, steering components, etc.. Just trying to give you an idea what will wear out at that era, if it hasn't already been replaced. Luckily, parts are fairly easy to find, and reasonably priced. Especially for a 2wd commuter car. I do have to say... that is FAR too much for that car. Even if it is in prime condition, it is an 83 2wd DL wagon. For that money, you should be able to find an 83 4wd GL HATCHBACK. Or a GL wagon, if you are really looking for a wagon. If you hunt, you should even be able to find a GL wagon, with much nicer features (like power steering! ) for that kind of cash. Not to knock the guy. That price is just way up there for a car that isn't really that desirable in ANY way.

Here's to Lady Luck! :banana: :banana: :banana:

Amen. If I had given in all the times my wagon had given me problems, that thing would probably be a new Subaru by now. Even now, it sits with a blown transmission, and a bent tie rod. But it is all stuff that I am plenty confident in fixing. It even gives me a good chance to check things out while I've got it all apart. Could be worse, it could be wrapped around a phone pole, or rusting out.... Everyone here is right, you gotta keep your chin up, and in the end.... you, and your car will be better for it.

And you torqued the head bolts with a wobbly extension in place???:-\ I got a hunch that didn't work too well.

I bet that Coronet ate your lunch....

I'm not one to argue maintenance, especially the replacement of vital fluids. The change of rear diff fluid is OFTEN overlooked in favor of easier, and more commonly advertised forms of maintenance. I personally have never "flushed" a rear end though. I've had many apart, and have never really seen any evidence that a flushing may have prolonged their lives. I could see it making a difference in the case of a LSD, or some other form of clutch, or hydraulic actuated traction device, but not much in a standard diff. However, I'm not sure of what flushes could hurt, or help some kinds of clutch bands.... All you really did was lower the viscosity of the contents of the rear diff, making them drain quicker, and easier. You may have gotten a little grime off the inside of the rear casing, but that will be back in 10k miles. I don't doubt a bit that it is quieter, even though doing your own work on things such as this often makes one notice the results even more. I personally would attribute the noise reduction more to new fluid, and not so much the flush job.

I think reverse is over-rated... I mean, you only use it when you are backing up! :-p Just wanted to say THANKS JEFF for helping me get my wagon home. It took a little wrenching, and a few parts I stole from Jeff, but I got the Wagon home last night. It was a chilly ride by the way, but it is home safe, and sorta sound. And it's ready to be fully repaired, with a few upgrades/changes! Anyone got an extra EA81 power steering rack???

Jeff, We may have to look into a block splitting ceremony sometime soon. I'm thinking a more devoted wheeler is going to need a more devoted engine. McBrat, I was going to ask you about the Delta Cams setup. I figured they had a good torque grind available. I actually have a 6a on the shelf from my Nova, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'm thinking I will be building a motor from scratch for this. So are there any upgrades you would do to the internals, like improving the liners or rotating stock? I'm not really sure as to what all is available in this department, so if you have any suggestions, or if anyone else does; that would be great!

Thanks to Jeff, The Beast, and McBrat. That's exactly what I was wondering. McBrat, So would you suggest finding and/or building a Hydraulic liftered EA81 for this project over a Solid liftered version? I'm not very familiar (yet) with the internal workings of these flat engines, but Jeff is! I'm looking for the something with good low end torque, and solid power, but in the most reliable package available. As I stated, this will be used in a wheeler. I'm thinking I will probably end up with a Webered EA81, but am trying to gather as much information as possible. Thanks again for the help. AND ANYONE WITH MORE EA81 IN PLACE OF EA82 TESTIMONIALS; PLEASE POST THEM!

Yeah. It's stripped really thoroughly. This diff has been in too many cars during its lifetime. I'm thinking this will call for a stud extractor.

Just wanting some information from people with REAL WORLD experience. I have recently been planning a winter project in which I will be building a new wheeler. My plan is to put an EA81 in a 3rd gen wagon for wheeling. Nothing new, I know. Jeff has just inspired me to go for it. I'm wanting testimonials from people who have used EA81s in place of EA82s. So if you could give me some real world, honest opinions on the use of your EA81 in place of an EA82 which you had previously driven; I would be very much appreciative. In your testimony, please included which type of fuel delivery system your EA81 is using, and your comparison between it, and the EA82 it replaced. By this I mean, your impression of any power loss, in relation to low end torque, or high end, or any power gains of a similar type. Thanks!

I'm wondering if the two studs that mount the rear differential to the moustache bar are replaceable or not.... I haven't had the cover off to inspect thoroughly, just stared at it from the outside when one stripped last week. So, before removing the differential, I'm asking here first. Are these studs removable, or do I just need a new differential cover?

I'm not sure of the laws in your state, but I'd be willing to gamble that they are very similar to the ones here. Most vehicles are exempt from mileage checks at either the age of 10 years, or once they reach 100,000 miles. That is a pretty standard law, adopted by most states. A quick call to your local Department of Motor Vehicles (or Tennessee's equivilent) should confirm any of this.

A man HAS to have his PRIORITIES!

FOR SALE: 1982 Subaru GL58 Station Wagon -5 inch lift, All components hand built in my shop -27.5 inch BF Goodrich tires on redrilled Mazda wheels -Custom Tube bumpers front and rear -Weber Carb -Spare set of stock roll up window front doors I really hate to see this wagon go, as I have put MANY hours into its construction. Unfortunately, it now has a set of "half doors" installed, and winter is just around the corner. It looks as though I will have to start over next spring. Lovingly cared for.... never wheeled. $7800 firm If I don't get this price within two weeks, the car will be KA'd... Serious inquiries only.

There are many makers of this similar style of stuff. I have used it on alot of my classic cars that I don't have shop space for, and I have been pretty happy with the results. They are cheap, and can be found pretty much anywhere. If the car is going to be parked outside, especially during winter moths; avoid using any kind of car cover. I have found these to do nothing but damage a car in our climate. The cover/tarp acts as a globe, and traps condensation inside. The car is FAR better off parked in an opening with exposure to what little sun we get during the winter. You may want to prepare the cars paint job with a good wax job. By this, I don't mean the easiest, quickest crap they sell at Schucks. I mean an actual quality, elbow grease wax job. This will cause our constant rain to bead and roll off more quickly. It will also protect the paint from anything that may grow on it while you are gone, and will make it far easier for you to clean the exterior upon your return.

My wagon is currently sitting under a cedar tree with small chunks of plastic draped over the windows. It's been there for over a week, even through yesterdays SEVERE wind, and rain. No water has gotten in there. Those doors change out in like 15 minutes. It'd be even quicker if you drilled holes in the rear of the front fenders. It's no big deal to do. Or.... I guess you could just sell it once winter comes.

Unnecessarily complicated. The dual lever setup would work more reliably, with no chance of leaking vaccuum lines. There's a reason that only the Europeans are still using vaccuum for everything. Even Lincoln gave up on it years ago!

I think you should just EJ it. Just lop a great big hole in the hood, and EJ the hell out of it. Then, we could design some sort of funnel system leading to the air cleaner, and do sweet, sweet water crossings. We start tomorrow at sun-up. You get the sheet metal, I'll bring the moonshine.

Looks good. I thought about going all the way back on mine, but I decided I just have to have an arm rest, and I like the look of the kickup. You gonna flip the door handles 90 degrees and recess them on top? I thought about doing that on the next set.

What's the mileage on the engine? By that I mean since its' last overhaul. Audio File is right when saying you really have to worry about the seals. As with all Wankel engines, the Apex Seals in that motor are it's weakest link. The problem is that bad seals can ruin the rotor housing. The 12a is a great motor, and I've seen some pretty amazing things done with them. But, they can last anywhere from 20 thousand miles, to 150 thousand miles. More importantly than other engine designs; it really depends on the life they've lived. With proper maintenance, these motors are highly reliable. The problem is that very few rotarys have ever received proper maintenance. I hate to bring bad news, but if you are looking at this car for pure reliabilty; I would probably look elsewhere. I want to make it clear that I am not in any way speaking poorly of this motor, or its' drivetrain. I am in fact a big fan of Wankel engines. My point is that STATISTICALLY, probably through no fault of its' own, this car will leave you walking. Unless you are willing to learn everything you need to know, and invest in the specialized tooling necessary to work on this car (not really that bad to do); this car could get costly for you to own/operate. That is the main reason you just don't see many of them on the road anymore. Also, once the rotor housing is eaten up - they get expensive/scarce to replace. If you are looking for a hobby car, that isn't your only means of transportation; I would probably go for it. They are an entertaining motor to work on, and a big plus is; everyone will think you are an eccentric nut job for owning and driving one! Especially if you "invest" in a driving hat, and gloves!