mikeshoup

Being an 89 AWD, its not going to have a governor gear. Its a 4 speed electronically governed transmission. Way more reliable than the old 3AT

I bought the hardware kit and new shoes, thinking that was all the problem was going to be. I got the drums off, and both wheel cylinders needed replacing. You could squish them and brake fluid would squirt out between the seals. Yummy. Everything inside the drums was covered in this black goop. No wonder the brake fluid level was low when I bought the car Called around, and no one had them in stock except for a Autozone about 15 miles away. Each cylinder ended up running $14.99 each. Finally finished doing both brakes today. Now am just waiting on a roommate to wake up so I can bleed the brakes. Yay. Total Cost: Shoes - $20 Hardware Kit - $18 Wheel cylinders - $30 Total: $68 Would I have taken it into a shop to do my brakes, I would've paid well over $500, I'm sure.

This is an EA81, and I don't have a portable tire inflator.

I don't really have the tools/knowledge to custom build my self a cargo basket. What kinda cargo baskets could I fit on top of my Turbo Wagon using the factory roof rack? I'm looking for more cargo room, and a place to put that full sized spare I can't fit under the hood. (for some reason, a 175/70/13 fits, but a 185/70/13 doesn't)

Get a legacy turbo if you can... The EA82 Turbos can be reliable if the cooling system is well maintained. Unfortunately, most 20 year old Subarus are still running around with the factory radiator. As long as they don't overheat, your head gaskets should be fine.

I think before dismissing air bags, people should look for some statistics. I tried a quick search and couldn't find any. When I searched them previously, I seem to think that the conclusion was airbags were safer. Statistically, if you were wearing your seat belt, you were safer with an air bag than without. If you weren't wearing your seat belt, you were safer without an air bag. I remember working at Craig Hospital (a spinal and brain injury rehab hospital), they were explaining to us that the number of patients they cared for due to car related injuries dramatically dropped with the requirement of airbags. I'm still a firm believer that air bags are safer, as long as you are wearing a seat belt. Though, I'd like to stay away from the side impact air bags, etc. One airbag in the steering wheel is plenty.

The two trannies should be identical.

Replacing all that stuff is a preventative maintenance item. What you may see, is restored power and fuel economy. Using high quality components will make that restored power last longer, but won't give you anything extra.

So I set out today to do a brake job... ended up being more than I expected. Have to replace a rear wheel cylinder. I've come across a snag: I can't remove the brake line from the cylinder! Someone before me completely rounded off the nut... I tried sticking my flare wrench over it, and it just spins around it. I can't get good enough grip with my vices... So what do I do now? And once I get it off, how do I fix this for the future? Thanks

Its supposed to be that way. The original full sized picture is quite horrific.

Wouldn't I vote, E? Or maybe D?

Skips post showed how to modify your linkage to make a short throw. There isn't going to be anything aftermarket for it.

I *should* be able to make the 18th, but as Phil pointed out before, I am teh sux0rz when it comes to remembering school events.

For $1500 and possibly needing a new transmission with that many miles, I'd pass. The engine may be rebuilt, but you have no idea the quality of the rebuild.

Autos are 3.7 Manuals are 3.9

You don't want to vent a BOV to the atmosphere with our setup. It'll cause terrible off idle hesitation. You *can*, but I recommend against it. Runs better with a recirc valve.

The pushbuttons may be different. Look on the side and see if there is something like a pin holding it in. You may have to punch it out with a punch of the appropriate size.

If the ECS light is on while the engine is running, it is not okay.

If the ECS light is on, the light on the ECU will be blinking. Remove the lower panel, there should be a light on the computer on the front of it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Lists the codes and what they mean.

The following are the specs for a TURBO. Non TURBO are different. Stabilizer Bar: 22mm Coil Diameter: 130mm Spring Coefficient: 25.5 N/m Outer Cylinder Length: 376mm Piston Rod Diameter: 20mm Damping force: - Expansion: 785 N - Compression: 490 N The rear is completely different, so comparing it is moot. As for the height, the Turbo and non-Turbo share the same struts. The springs are different, but if anything the Turbo spring makes the car sit higher. It has more coils and is stiffer. I personally do not notice a difference between the two in ride height in the front though.

+1 on the similar threads at the bottom. This subject has been beaten to death like a dead horse.

Any more, turbo head gaskets are the same. SOA doesn't list a separate part between the two. There are two intake gaskets for the EA82, the MPFI and Turbo use dual port, SPFI and Carb use single. Exhaust manifold gaskets are the same. All else is the same. Turbos have extra gaskets for the exhaust that bolts onto the turbo, and copper washers for the coolant and oil pipes. There could be a couple little things here and there?

Adjusted them today, and they're still clunking. I'm going to rebuild them (the hardware kit is like $20...). Then maybe later invest in some rear discs. I don't mind adjusting them, as it'll be part of my every other oil change tune up.

Yes, PM McBrat. He does a good job. Just got a few from him today!

I'm a dumb sh**. It is clunking in the rear drums. I'll try and adjust them.