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Better to have it stuck in 4wd then stuck in 2wd.. I had the same thing happen on my GMC S-15 a few years ago when I was 4x4ing.. I thought I blew my transfercase or something cuz I had no 4 wheel drive.. Brought it to the shop, pulled **** apart and then checked the vacumn line.. lol

yup driving lights or fog lights.. Get ones that are blue/white in color they look brighter.

****, just take the sway bar off.. from what I'm told, soobs drive better with out em

Yeah I know what you mean.. Figured I'd try to get a SVX til I can get my WRX STi this summer..

get a EA-82 soob (85-92)

for you guys who like hte electric fans.. The newer legacy's have dual elect. fans that are smaller then the elect. fans that are on the 80's soobs.. They wind up for RPM.. Check those out.. After all, dual is better then single

REstore is alright if you want to go the cheap way.. Prolong is the best way to go A kid I know ran his subaru with no oil showing on the dipstick for 3 weeks (before it died) after he prolonged it. (Not saying this is good, but hey, it was worth the test.. lol) If your car is just burning oil and thats it, Lucas's Oil Stabilzer works better then Restore. (you get a quart bottle for 8 bucks) use it in your tranny too if you have a manual

Marvels Mystery Oil.... Someone might want to claryify with me, but I believe you can run it in Auto tranny's It looks just like ATF fluid anyways... Since you added ATF fluid in there, did it stop shifting funny?

Well, 6 qrts, must be a auto tranny. Dump some MMO in it

YES!!! I just went to the soob dealer here in Fairbanks and talked to an older lady at the dealership.. She was actually pretty nice. Said I couldnt test drive the STi during the winter because its got racing tires on it (which makes sense.. its slicker then **** up here right now) But she did say I could feel free to test drive the reg. WRX now if I wanted and to come back in the spring when the roads are clear and I can take the STi out! Can't wait til spring now..

lemme check my hanyes manual. 85 2wd drive is says (this is from inside to outside of the whole assembly) 1. O ring 2 spacer 3 oil seal 4 inner bearing 5 Outer bearing 6 Lock plate 7 lock washer 8 axle nut 9 o ring 10 grease cap The only seal that there is, goes on the inside part of the stub shaft where hte cv axle connects (#3)

I asked him if he married his wife with out bangin her first.... hehehe

Just like the other guys said Go buy NGK plugs.. ONLY USE THEM (Platniums are a lil nicer) Get a plug gaping tool and gap then from .42 to .47 I believe NGK's are pre-gapped pretty close to what soobs need to run. Antisneeze those bastards and hand tighten them in. If you have any mechanical sense at all, you can feel the threads starting to grab on the first 1/4 turn (hand tightening) Also what kind of engine do you have? And someone said something about dropping a plug. Never use a plug that you've dropped.. Chances are the guys at Napa or what ever store you goto have probably dropped the plugs once or twice already.. (A friend of mine had the electrode break out of the middle of his plug in his brand new 2003 RMK 800 snowmachine... needless to say, it seized the engine.. when we pulled the pistons you could see where the electrode and rings met..

Phatbrat your right about Subarubrat.. The pics of the h-6 look like it fit in there decently. The valve covered touched the "frame rails" on the body on the passenger side back cylinder. I'd get a carbbed or Turbo'd EA-82 and put that in there... Easier to do and there's tons of parts for em

I have BF Goodrich studded snow tires.. When I go back out to my car I will post the make of the tires.. But yeah, I live in alaska and I've driven on all brands of winter tires and these I like the best. Had Blizzak's last year, hated em (rubbers too damn soft only good for about 8000 miles [perhaps its the excessive spinning of my tires ]) As far as how fast you can go on the ice, well my car max's out at 97 and I've had it there twice this winter on slick rump roast roads

alcyone - You wanna get rid of that SVX?

So I went to Anchorage this weekend and went to all the imported car dealers.. Checked out the Volvo 300 R, Mitsubishi Evo 7 Lancer and the WRX STi... I'm pretty much a subaru guy for life, I just wanted to see what the "competition" is like.. Much to my disliking, they pos dealer wouldnt let me test drive the STi.. Which I do not understand.. He kept bragging to me about how bulletproof the STi tranny is and how it will never break. So why couldnt I test drive it. I had 2 different insurance policies.. One Full Coverage and one Liability and I also had my old man there with me with his badass credit and a limitless credit card.... They said the only way I was gonna test drive that car was to buy it first and my first ride in my new car would be the "test drive" I'm wondering why this dealer what such an rump roast about it... My family has already bought 2 soobs from THAT dealer. The 86 GL (Mine) and the 2002 Legacy (Mom's badass car) Has anyone else ran into this problem attempting to get a test drive in a 30,000 dollar car?

dolly the front, and disconnect back drive line from rear end.. you'll be fine

It depends on what way your going to do it.. Are you going to pull the motor, or drop the tranny?

This is for the guys with 5 speed manuals.. Just wondering what RPM do you guys usually shift at? I rev mine up to 4300 rpm before I shift...

Put it on a dolly and drop the driveline from the rearend and tie it up somehow.... You can't pull the whole shaft (Tranny will leak oil) unless you have another spline spindle to go on the tranny.. (The spindle that goes on the spline shaft that comes out of the tranny) If you have an extra spline spindle w/o the rest of the driveshafty and ujoints hooked to it, just put that on there and wire tie it in place.. It will work, I drove for 3 months in my 86 GL with the spindle wire tied in there... My terms for the parts might be off, so if u can't figure it out, lemme know.

ahhh ok.. gotcha.. Thanks for clarifying

Pull your fuse box cover and the kick panel under the steering column.. There should be a blue female and a blue male and green male wire (or vice versa male/female and colors) Anyways, disconnect what ever one is plugged in. and replace with the other color. if green is plugged in, plug the blue one in.. etc.... That will reset the light. They come on between 50 and 60,000 100 and 120,000 and 170 to 180,000 miles to check your egr, push on inside of the diaphram of the egr valve.. if it makes your car sputter like its going to die, and then it springs back out and the ran runs fine, the egr is fine..

yeah for offroading why would you want a front diff that slips? wouldnt you want it locked ?

Why on earth would you want LSD in the front diff?