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the purge control solenoid doesnt affect the motor as much as the egr solenoid does. with the egr out, the car will sputter bad at an idle (egr valve sticks in) Anyone has a good source for these, let me know.. we always need em at work. prolly 2 or 3 a week

whats an EA82T?

So I dug out a front clip of an EA82 wagon that was sittin hidden away at our yard. Covered in waist deep snow, I separated the engine and tranny, unbolted the engine mounts, drug the engine on a windshield 300 feet to the shop. Let the engine thaw out for a night (It sat all winter with the air intake off the engine) The oil was clean.. no water in it at all.. Dumped some seafoam into the cylinders, put a new rear main seal on. Installed the engine, turned it over with the starter for 2 minutes with the plugs out, put in new plugs started up.. With the egr selinoid missing and one or two other selinoids. After I get the car running, my boss tells me that engine hadnt ran in 5 years. WOW!

If it was N/A I'd say it would be fine, but since its a turbo they get ran harder and they run hotter. I'd want at least 20psi at an idle and probably 45 or 50 at 2500.

yes you will notice some TOD from that low of oil pressure.. if it does, try some 15w-40

Ok that confirms the intake.. now what about true dual exhaust ports like on the EA81 airplane heads? I'd like to run the MPFI spider intake, carb block, mpfi dp heads (with true dual exhaust ports), Carbbed cams? I'm sayin carb'd cams to go with the higher compression carb block? or would the mpfi heads make the compression lower? I'm probably confusing the hell out of you guys.... It'd be easier if I could just line all the parts up and say will this work? *its my for my covert ops ice racing car for next fall*

make sure you use the Red bottle of heet. And use like 4 bottles. Red vs. Yellow heet comes down to the red burning with water with the gas, and the yellow just makes the water stick in the filter and plug up. As for the accel coil, dont use em.... Yes, they work good for about a month of hard driving then they slowly die. I went from 25 mpg to 13 mpg on with my accel coil in a 6 month period. Good luck

Go buy 5 feet of 5/8" heater core hose and use the old subaru clamps that where on the old hoses. It wont be prebent, but the heater core hose is pretty soft and works fine for the pcv system. Its easier then cleaning the old hoses and they are probably brittle from heat and cold over the years.

get on ohms meter and test your coil according to the haynes or chiltons manual. My car did that when my accel coil started to burn out

yeah go with the non interference EJ22. They are the easiest to work on. 6 bolts, and you can have the heads off the motor.. Can't beat that. And with the right gear ratios, it'd be unstoppable. The only thing you are really going to have to worry about motor wise out of the Gen 1 EJ22's is head gaskets

noise could be balljoints, bearings, tierod, axle starting to go bad. look at all of them. if the balljoint or tierod boot is ripped, thats prolly where the play is coming from. Anchorage is hell on the undersides of soobs

Do they exist? did a quick search and found some made for ea81s at ramengines.com but didnt see any ea82 stuff anywhere. Might be kinda cool full headers and dual ignition. Anyone ????

You gotta be really careful when messin with the airbag systems. I've heard the story of the mechanic who was in the cab of a car or truck with the seats out workin on somethin inside and he set the airbag off, blew him out the back window. As far as they go, most cars have a fuse that you are supposed to take out before doing any major servicing to the engine. For offroading, disconnect them, and get rid of it. I've hit stuff hard enough to set them off (If my car had them) Glad my car is too old for airbag, woulda had a busted up face cuz I dont wear my seatbelt when I'm offroad

that thing kicks @ss... I wish I had 3 grand so I could buy it.. Really pimp the ladies with that thing.. lower it.. put on some dubs with spinners. add hydralics like a woman....could be fun..

Alright, so I've never done this before.. Got a car at the shop thats dumpin oil from the drivers side cam seal. How hard is that seal to replace? Can I leave the cam case bolted to the head and take the cam out that way? Or does the cam case have to come off the head to get it out. And are there and tricks of the trade that I should know about? Thanks in advance

Yes that is TOD. Thats the lifters loosing pressure while the car sits. try a reseal first and it that dont fix it, do the pump

carb expert here. You need to plug off the ASV hoses. Unplug the hose at the big black canister thing. (the silencer) now get some pvc end caps. thread it on to the hose. this will fix that popping and backfiring. Your exhuast is getting too much air, thus making the popping and the backfire when you shift.

you dont even have to go that far. Heres what I would do. Jack up the tranny/engine via bottom of tranny. leave your skid plate on. Pull the Raid and unhook fuel lines etc. with the raid out, you can slide the engine forward (once the engine mount studs are cleared) the engine will rest against the core support. This will give you about a foot of room to get down and change you clutch. Do it this way, and it saves everyones backs. Then when you are done, two people can lift the engine up and slide it back to the tranny.

dude theres skidplates all along the side of the road.. its called street signs!

Pyro - I wanna apologize too for being an ********************* to you the other day. my bad dude

The blower motor is starting to go out. Get another one from a JY

take the fuel fill door off and bring it to a paint store. have them mix a aerosol can up of that color. Otherwise you arent gonna get the right color of paint.. Trust me, we've tried at work.. it never comes out the righ color unless you do it this way

k well pull the disty from the car.. remember the exact position of the rotor, so when you put the disty back on the car, you get the timing right. Now turn the disty by hand. It should spin without and binding, rubbing or grabbing. IF it does, the bearing/bushings are bad in the disty

I'd go with the legacy springs. newer style suspension is better then old.

alright dude.. you've started 4 or 5 threads about the same thing. I told you a few times now to replace the seals in your oil pump and that if that didnt fix it to replace the pump. If you are going to ask questions here, START Listening to What people tell you to do.